I have just been reading the latest posts on the alt.autos.lexus newsgroup. Whilst I appreciate this is mainly Americans and the European cars may be different I would like to know whether the problems they experience over there should concern RX300 owners over here.

The latest posts suggest it takes ages to change the oil filter and therefore is probably not done. The poster seems to suggest he is using a 'national oil change firm' (I presume he means something like Kwikfit).

Is it really that difficult?

The latest posts also refer to problems with sludging up. I dont seem to have the problem so should I worry about it?

Finally when my RX had its first 10000 service (last January) the oil (Mobil 1) was charged at £46.94 incl VAT for 4.7 litres. This seems extortionate to me but am I wrong.

The overall charge of £136.78 incl VAT seemed ok but am I wrong.

I was very happy with the service provided by Lexus Teesside (comfortable lounge, TV, plenty of newspapers and coffee etc) and it was all done in about 1 hour whilst I waited. As I approach 20,000 miles I would appreciate some feedback

:D:D:D:D

There was an article about sludging on some toyota models and Toyota ended up forking out to pay for customers cars to be fixed. This was in the US.

However.. keeping up with regular oil changes and you will not get that problem.

Regarding the Oil filter.. you would be able to tell if the oil filter was not changed as the oil would not look so clean on the dipstick... you could always mark the oil filter.. but i cannot see Lexus missing an oil filter change!

For one dont goto quickfit style establishment.

Anyway In some parts of the US car oil changes are at every 3000 miles instead of 6 or 9

That seems a bloomin' extortionate price for Mobil 1 to me, buts thats dealers for you. The mark up on that must be incredible. Even at Halford$ it is only £23.99 for 5 litres:o:o:o

I happen to live in Mexico with my 1999 RX300. I brought mine down from the U.S. Here, we have no Lexus but we do have Toyota, yet they are surprisingly incompetent, necessitating my own repairs to my own vehicle.

With regard to the oil filter problems, I know a few friends in the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic regions of the US that have had sludge in their RX300s. Part of the problem is that unless you request otherwise, most dealerships use Quaker State or another non-synthetic oil. Moreover, their have been occasions where no oil change was performed, yet the people were charged. Quite sad and illegal. However, the average consumer does not know.

I do my own oil changes using Mobil 1 15W-50. I am not sure what they have in Europe or the UK as far as weights, but in Mexico that is the only weight of Mobil1. In the states we have 0W-30 (flows 7 times faster than water), 5W-30, 10W-30 and 15W-50. I still used 15W-50 in the states even though it was not recommended.

The reason is there is a high amount of shearing of oil given the engine design (the one that causes sludge, too). Thus, it can go from 50 to 30 or 20 after 5,000 miles. I have had no sludge build up as far as I and my mechanics know.

I also recommend using a K&N oil filter and definitely the air filter. I am pretty sure these products are available in the U.K.

I think my dealer has not been changin mine... but I'm having the hardest time actually finding the filter on the car - can you give me an idea where it is?

(I've found the pan and drain bolt, etc but don't see the filter in any obvious place).

not having worked on the RX i am taking a pure guess here - you may have to remove a engine belly pan to get access to it - common practice on modern cars.

as for the sludging( if this is happening) use a high detergent type of oil ( diesel type oil) but make sure it is the same spec ie 15-40 W or whatever you use. In your owners manual there is guide for ambient temperature/ oil grade.

but i would have a chat with one of the mechs in the workshop( rather than the salesman) and ask about the sludging.


I think the cost of the oil is disgusting - you can always buy the oil yourself and request them to use yours - that way you will save money.

the cost of the mobil1 sounds a bit high. i would seriously warn off going to "fast-fit" style establishments - the oil that they use is pretty poor quality - 20/50 at best, but also, they are not using original lexus parts - you are likely to get a cheap and nasty replica filter - who knows what damage that will do to the engine (along with the poor quality oil).

Best bet would seem to be that you buy your own high-spec oil and get them to use it

rwroth - if you don't think that your dealer is changing your filter, you can always ask for your old one back as proof ...... you'll be able to tell if they are trying to fool you pretty quickly (esp if there are no markings on the "old filter" casing

Hopefully you've found it by now but the oil filter is located under the exhaust manifold closest to the radiator. To remove it requires that the engine be cold or you wear asbestos gloves. It is accessed from above by touch and feel (you can only see a small piece of it). I had to buy one of those oil filter wrenches that fit like a cap on the end of the filter. You should also remove any jewelry (watches, rings, etc) before atempting to remove it (I lost a watch about three changes ago) or you risk leaving them somewhere in the engine compartment. Since the oil that flows out of the filter as you remove it runs down the side of the engine block, be sure your drip pan is positioned appropriately.

You've all probably been notified by now (by Lexus) but the sludge seems to be a recognized problem if you neglect to change the oil/filter on a regular basis. I use Fram filters exclusively and 5/30 weight oil (which is what the manual recommends) and haven't had a problem in 40K miles (wouldn't expect to either).

We use my wife's RX300 for towing a boat (approx 1500kg) as well as normal "kids to school" work. I change the filter every 15,000km with a genuine Toyota version and fully synthetic oil (Mobil 1 or Shell Helix). After 60,000km there is no evidence of sludge and the car runs great. (I couldn't prise it from my wife with a crowbar)

The previous post highlights the perils of changing the filter. You must have an end-fit removal tool (not the old band type), attaching to a standard 3/4" socket ratchet drive. They cost about AUD$25/US$13/BP9 at auto accessory stores.

Keep a few rags handy to wipe up the spills down the side of the crankcase!

Need Help:

I have a 2003 rx-300, u.s. model. I just checked underneath the car and found a black platic looking square cover with a hexagonal looking screw that's caved in instead of bulging out like your standard hex bolts. I'm wondering if this is the oil pan bolt? anyway, where do i get a tool to remove such a bolt? Also, still searching for the filter. Can't seem to find it yet.

Okay, reporting back in. I've just changed the oils in my rx-300 last night. Found the following to be of use:

1 large 14mm wrench for the oil pan bolt
5 quarts of synthetic oil (i used mobil 1 0w30 weight) cost is $4.99 U.S.
size 2 filter cap ($4.44) for the aftermarket Fram's EG-3164 Oil filter (cost = $11.99 U.S.)
1 nylon o-ring for the oil pan bolt

my total cost = $43.00 + Tax roughly. Not bad since you get a peace of mind that you've got excellent oil in your engine, and no more worries of possible sludge occuring in your beloved RX.

another thing i'm wondering about: i've got 11,000 miles (roughly 17,600 kms) in milege. Is it premature to switch to full synthetic motor oil?

Btw, the spec sheet in my owner's manual says the engine oil capacity is 4.7 Quarts. Will it be overkill to fill up with 5 quarts? anyone know if this will have any adverse effects in the performance of the engine?

You can change to a synthetic at any time.

NEVER overfill the crankcase. Too much oil can result in frothing of the oil.

Don't use Fram filters. They are about the worst filter you can use. Toyota filters are not the best but better than Fram.

Not all Mobil 1 oils are true synthetics even if they are claimed to be. When Castrol got away with using petroleum bases on oils they called synthetic, Mobil started using cheaper bases on their 30 weights to compete (5W-30, 10W-30, etc). 0W-40 and 15W-50 Mobil 1 are still made with synthetic bases.

Mercedes specifies Mobil 1 0W-40 or 15W-50 but specifically does not approve the use of any of the 30 weight Mobil 1 oils.

The gelling/sludging of oil in Toyota/Lexus V6 engines was caused by a change Toyota made to increase the temperatures in the heads of these engines. This was done to reduce emissions. This change resulted in the heads having too big a temperature differential with the block and the hot oil from the head gelled when it hit the cooler block. Frequent oil changes or the use of a true synthetic oil would have avoided the problem.

Toyota made a production change to open up the oil passages in the heads to reduce temperatures (although they claim it shouldn't be a problem).