Hi,

I'm new on here having just purchased an IS200.

My car is running a TTE Supercharger, which in all honesty i know very little about as yet! Other kit includes small front mount intercooler, HKS Hi Power silent exhaust, some kind of manifold upgrade, 18" light weight wheels and Tein adjustable coil over suspension.

It was on a dyno last night and was a little disappointed to see a max power of 186 bhp! It seems just as it's getting good boost (4psi, dont know what its suposed to make?) at just below 5k revs, the boost drops off copletely and there is a squeel from the charger.

Does anybody know if there is a clutch in the supercharger that can wear out? The belts seem ok, tight and no signs of wear.

Any suggestions from anybody who knows what they are talking about would be gratefully received.

STONEY

See the printout: http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/84stoney/dyno1.jpg

Have you checked every Hose & Hose clip on the Supercharger for leaks/tightness ?
I believe there is a magnetic clutch at the pulley end (inside the black pulley) but
I would suggest talking to Gord or Rob as both know their way round the TTE unit.

the unit makes 4 -4.5 psi anyway so worries there. there is no clutch in the supercharger so nothing to wear out. The SC unit is from an SLK and has been modified to permanant drive ( SLK uses a magnetic clutch).

I would replace the belt ( PN : 5pk800) and also check the bypass valve on the sc is closing properly - post a photo of the cable adjusters on the bypass valve and also check EVERY pipe clip and hose for correct installation as they do work loose.

also was the run performed in 5th gear?

the intercooler is standard BTW

oh would your car happen to be blue??

rob, do you have a pic of the correct position etc of cable adjusters for the bypass valve??

how can you check if the valve on the s/c is closing correctly?

cheers mate

rob

adjusters should be in the mid position depending on the condition of the cable.

to check if the bypass is closing properly - put IGN to on so all dash lights are on. move by hand the throttle valve assy (the black bit on the throttle body), to the maximum position, ( the bypass valve will also move at the same time) whilst holding it in this position push the arm of the bypass valve - there should be no movement - this means the valve is fully closed.

if your cable is old or may have stretched a bit then the valve may not be closing properly then u will have to use the adjusters on the cable

Thanks for the Rapid replies.

Rob, I will do as you have said, and get back to you.

Not enough pressure on the belt (or old belt), order a new (Contitech) belt and you'll be fine. If you hear a howl or hissing sound at 5000 rpm while pulling through it's definitely the belt (furthermore do a search on te uprated spring and see if the new one is mounted).

succes!

Well I think the cable adjustment is OK (see photo).

I have, however, found a snapped spring on the valve (see photo) which i think is probably effecting it. I've spoken to Sean (Shaun?) at TDI (who did the conversion) and he was most helpful in sending me a new spring.

I dont know if this alone is causing the problem?

Do you thing i should change the belt too, for good measure? The adjustment seems to be set to max, and it may be the original, 3 year old one, although milage sinse fitting has been low. Also, it looks as if it could maybe be a little wider? (see photo)

What do ya reckon?

S

the cable looks fine mate, and i can see the snapped spring but you've also got the new style one fitted anyway
Here:


so there was no need for it.
just out of interest were you charged for the new spring? as if you email Florian At TTE they'll provide one for free.

Stav

Oh, OK, it did look to be closing ok, i just figured "that looks broke"!

No, I was not charged for the spring, not even postage, and the guy at TDI was very helpful.

But if the spring isnt the prolem, am I to supose it's the belt then?

belt/tension of belt ?

there is no need to have 2 springs fitted so dont worry about that - just remove the broken spring.

the broken spring was phased out because it does break and was also a bit weak to open the bypass valve so the mousetrap style spring was introduced.

the belt width is fine as the width is the same as the pulley that is on the water pump - you can not fit a wider belt.

I suspect the belt is slipping and/or the belt is loose........ they are cheap and u can get a belt at any motor factors - as i said before the belt is a 5pk800 if ur really concerned about the belt slipping look for a goodyear gatorback v belt but TBH replacing the belt with a new one should sort out the problem.

A small tip to remove/install the belt easier is remove the tensioner remove the belt - fit new belt and then fit the tensioner - its far easier that way.

i had a look at your photos and at least the belt is fitted properly as it is possible to have it 1 groove out on the SC pulley - in other words the belt should be as far forward as possible.

here is my cable for reference



also look at the other end next to the throttle - there is a metal bracket there that can be fitted the wrong way round causing increased tension and wear on the cable.
this is the correct way round BTW.




Also take note that both ends of the cable should be lubricated as the outer cable body moves up and down at the throttle end, hence the spring. - thats also what all the white stuff is - non drying high temp lubricant.

Hey there and welcome to the LOC, pity you hadn't joined sooner, as I was only down there last week

All the best and hope you sort things,
Jamie

Hi,

its been a while, buit i have now bought a belt for my sc, i couldnt get a 5pk800 from my local place, so have a 5pk792 and a 5pk810, as far as i can tell there are just 8mm short and 10mm long, respectivly. will this small tolarence be ok? which one should i fit? and how hard is it to fit, does the belt need to be a specific tension? is this the sort of job i should attemp myself, with very basic mechanical knowledge? (i know its a small job but i am SO skint!

very easy to do but as the belt is shorter u might have some probs getting the belt on - remove the belt tensioner from the fram 17mm spanner needed, remove the belt, then fit new belt and MAKE 100% SURE IT IS AS FAR FORWARD AS POSSIBLE ON THE SUPERCHARGER PULLEY!!!! you will be left with 1 groove at the rear of the pulley.

then fit the tensioner and bolt - check for correct installation of the little locating pin and then using a hammer handle etc push against the bracket of the tensioner to tension the belt then tighten the tensioner retaining belt.

Thanks, as i said i have a belt 8mm short, but if that wont fit i have one 10mm too long, that i guess the tensioner should make up for the difference.

What i really wanted to know is, does the belt have to be a certain tension, or, just tight enough that it doesnt slip. can i overtighten it by mistake?

I am keen to work on my car myself, (partly for financial reasons) but am a little worried i'll screw something up! I have a little mechanical knowledge, and have carried out a lot of work on my Celica (with varying levels of success!). But this car has never been touched by anyone other that Lexus and TDI! I should be able to manage this Ok though.

(Also "hammed handle"??? Dont think i have one of those? Is that a typo, or just something ive never heard of?)

hammer handle use it to push the tensioner - i suspect the 10mm belt will be too long. should have goe to another motor factor or asked them to order the correct belt

Right.

To conclude this thread. Had new belt fitted, and seems to hold fully boost right up to redline now - SORTED.

I used a 5pk803 belt, 3mm longer than reccomended (easier to get hold of i found) seems fine.

Having fuel cut/FCD problems, but i'll leave that to the other thread!

Quick update:

These problems were sorted out a long time ago, however...the promised spring from TDi has not shown up yet...

Must be lost in all the paperwork

there is a surprise.....