When i had my s/c fitted along with a Unichip at Tdi, it wasnt mapped on the dyno but instead the map was uploaded to the the chip.
The map i was told was from kierens car which was the first stage 1 s/c upgrade, i got 2 miles and the engine check light come on and car went into limp mode.

See if they're still doing that thats the problem.

As stated many times before ever car is different i can understand if they load in that file then fine tune it on the dyno, but if they're using it as just a plug and play i personally think thats a bit dodgy.

Stav

strange as it may seem Marc..............its not dodgy.............you would use the base map to save time then make subtle changes to suit the current vehicle

wud be dodgy if no more was done but I'd be surprised if the company in question did that

It was kind of the point i was trying to make sorry if it wasn't clear.

But i do agree with ya.

Stav

Not been on for a few days and had a 5 page read to catch up LoL.

Hope u can get it sorted without to much fuss mate.

As Gord said at the end of the day it could just be a weak con rod not sure if theres much of it left know but they maybe be able find fault with that.

If you where running 0.65 bar that is very high but then you say that u only had 195 @ hubs, which leads me to think u have the same set up as yemgi's car and u would be running the 0.4 ish bar set up. I think this is the point that needs to be answered asap.

I know the katana intercooler raises boost pressure a little which is whys its slightly higher than standard TTE but there would be no pulley involved with that.

Hope u get it sorted soon.

Been trying to understand why you were only getting 153hp at the hubs with an S/C? When Vykers bog standard IS200 put out 132.5 at the hubs and about 159hp at the fly, so with an S/C fitted you were only getting around 20hp more?? Can anybody explain or am i being thick as all the S/C'ed Is200's i've seen, most are putting more than 153hp so why was your set up so low compared to the others ?? Sorry if i'm getting in the way just trying to understand more on the power side of the upgrades as quite interested in the whole system so please dont all flame me at once??

If he had a boost leak like i used to, or a slipping belt then he wouldnt be getting the power he should be, so the low power was probley due to a bad fitment than anything else.

Stav

Cheers Stav understand a bit more now?

surly that would have been picked up at the time of installation.

Thats one of the parts i cant get my head round?

If the car was running at 153hp and you gained 40hp after the setup, if it was not fitted right in the first place? then you had approx 33hp already sitting there which was then produced by re-fitting the s/c sytem correctly?? so why pay 5.5k for the extra 7 hp?? as the way i'm thinking of it is you've paid for something that you basically already had minus the 7hp?

Am i getting it or am i talking utter poo poo??

Cho mate i'm just trying to understand the logical side of whats happend so please dont take it the wrong way

The car was producing about 191 at the Fly with standard TTE setup. I had the car serviced at TDI and they diagnosed a slipping belt as the cause. This was fixed before the dyno run where the car produced 191 at the fly. After the stage 1 mods the car produced approx. 243 @ the Fly. TTE state the the supercharger takes power at the fly to 205BHP, so I thought there was a an adequate gain.

Hi Cho, Just read this.
Sorry to hear this, a real ba***rd over christmas...Hope you get it sorted soon mate.
Hope you have more luck in the new year.
Aaron

The Fly break horsepower as stated by Lexus for a standard is200 is 153 BHP

Can anyone recommend an Independent Engineer?

you're in Leicester ain't you fella.....

I'm in loughborough myself......will have a word with a mechanic mate of mine and see if he can reccomend someone local to you

Thanks for that mate i understand your setup better now Good luck with getting it sorted and cheers for explaining it a bit more

Thanks a lot mate, really appreciate it.

there is the institute of automotive engineers (think) they charge £200 ish for a check

get a googling

not sure if these are any good matey:

clicky

click me

click again

Personally I wouldn't bother with the report, you spend hundreds to get a nice report telling you the con-rod broke. Cause over stress, fatigue or maybe a combination of both. But you know that already. Contributory factor would be the fitting of a supercharger increasing loadings in the order of 35% above design loads. Really don't think that the report would place blame on a third party.

As many posts on here have said there a loads of S/C 1G-FE engines running 200ish BHP and I only know of 2 (including yours) that have had con-rod failures. As I posted way back statistically the rods will be perfectly OK at that level of torque/power and it would seem that your car was not significantly different in output. However if you are unlucky and have one of the weaker, but within limits for standard power, con-rods it may well fail. Just unlucky I would say.

Also from what I have read nothing that TDI did to the car would have contributed to the failure. The questions about value for money, incorrect mapping etc are valid though have no bearing on the damage done.

Save the money and put it towards the rebuild works mate. Sounds harsh but **** happens.

It kinda puts you off modding and steers you towards a faster standard car

What you should do if findout what boost your car was running ????

As Yemgi saying that his was running 0.65 with stage 1.

Quite right Gord, I am trying my best to get this info from TDI but they are unsure as to whether they have it?!?

hmm, sounds a little convenient....

why wouldn't they have it. surely they would have checked the boost pressure and have a written account of it etc.....

Thats not correct.

you work out the boost you want by some calculation involving max engine rpm and max supercharger rpm that tells you the diameter pully you want.

I don't know the specifics but for the lysholm kit I'm doing I had to specify max rpm of car and max boost I wanted they then worked out the pully size to supply with the kit.

If what you are saying is correct Cho, then something is not right.

I can't believe that you have had a pully fitted and the company who fitted it cant say it was for .XX boost or .YY boost.

I'm also fairly (99%) confident that the data from the dyno session will tell you what boost and at what RPM max boost was achieved

A couple of problems with that dave,

Firstly the if the pulley for your Lysholm kit is using the same pully position as TTE then it comes from a different pully (possibly water pump?) to the crank and so you have to work out the max speed of that pully as it may not be identical to the crank.

Secondly with boost pressure. Unless you take a physically reading using a boost gauge the boost pressure is hard to get because you can't use the OBDII as its a false reading amended by the black box/piggy back ECU. I suppose you could connect to the piggy back ECU and that may give you a true boost reading? But if they loaded in the map off the car and didn't do any live mapping then they won't have this info, but i'd say thats their fault as it's a check to see if the works within percieved safe limits?

But yes I think they should know the exact boost, the size of pully they fit provides, as it should be constant as all engines spin to the same RPM, etc. With the standard intercooler and otherwise.

Stav

Not entirely sure on pulley posistion etc as I'm no expert all I know is the info they required to give me a kit that runs .4 bar I extrapolated that to this situation.

I'm still sure the state of the art dyno used will give boost levels

Ask Yemgi how he got hold of his, he has said something to do with the HKS FCON, Do you have the FCON fitted

Well if they dont have it, then something wrong

If they are doing more boost on your car, by putting bigger pulley on, then how do they know its safe to run ????? with what they have put on your car. I would put another engine in, see what boost its running 1st then take it from there, if running more than safe level, hit them with the bill for the work you have had done, plus the work you are going to have to have done, for your car to run safe.

When i was putting the big pulley onto my car, i didn't want a pulley that was going to make more than 0.55 top, as the engine was still standard, its running just over 0.5 at the min.

Yes I have the FCON fitted so hopefully the data should be there only thing is the car battery has died so i'm worried this may have wiped the data from my ecu and FCON?

In theory they should have been reading it as they live mapped it, but if they didn;t i'm doubt the flat battery would have wiped it, its proberly got a small flash memory.

Stav

Cho can you tell me what the size of your pulley is

If you look at your charger, it has pulley at the front, not this one, look where the belt is going, it should go down to another pulley, it will look new.

Can you tell me what size it is, eg the diameter, just to give you some indication the standard one is 130mm across.

Looks to be roughly 150mm

Intresting as mine is 160mm, what size was on Yemgi's car ?

No light where the car is so will double check tomorrow

this is all becoming fishy

How do you mean?

It just seems like they can't provide all the information to you regarding the work on your car (boost pressure, afr, etc). That in my mind, they should have access to as i would have thought they'd have check all that to ensure the conversion was safe?

Stav

Maybe companies that fit modifield parts (especially turbos, s/c, engine components that give extra boost/bhp etc) should also ask the owner to come back after a certain distance or certain time to double check for problems. And as mentioned before, a signature of the mechanic/s that carried out the work and whos it checked by would also be nice. Sorry to hear about your IS Cho, as i would be down the gutter (and after blood!) after paying out so much to get it done properly, only for that to happen. But reading through the posts, things are just not adding up. No info for boost, but yet they installed the pully, warning lights comming on after work is carried out ( shouldn't that have been corrected during dyno run), lack of bhp considering the amount of parts changed, etc etc. I think it's in TDIs interest to help you out in everyway they can, which im sure they will as they are a very respectable company.

Well they said they would send me all the data next week so will see what happens. If they don't have fundamentals such as the A/F/R and boost pressure I'm sure it is only going to help me get things sorted quicker as it just shows a total disregard for the quality and safety of work being carried out.

Very true, and it could have been alot worse for you and your two passengers (So the bright side is that noone was hurt).

Like said above Cho it just seems suss that a professional company does work that they dont know what the outcome of there conversions is going to be??
What i gather is that a small difference in pulley size can make a big difference to the boost and i would have thought that this would all have to be calculated and monitored carefully and if this has not been done and corners cut this could be a major factor in what has happened to your engine mate.
It would be in their own interest to store such info in the case of this ever happening dont you think? Im no mechanic but i dont think it really takes one in this circumstances. I think as soon as there is doubts as if the info is available from them there is something to hide.
I really hope you get all this sorted out ASAP as its not just the cost its all the hassle you will have and the fact you are without a car.

Mate that's exactly how I feel, I guess I will just have to wait and see what happens, the en gine should be getting stripped down next week and will get the engineer in then and should hopefully have all the data from TDI.

All the best with it then mate and hope you find a positive failure/fault and maybe we can all learn from it as im sure this will have disheartened you from tuning in the future.

Sorry to hear this mate. I know exactly how you feel. At least your only on your first rebuild

Don't bother with an independant report. As Neil has said its really a waste of money as you will never find exactly or prove why the con-rod snapped. We all know they are very weak and can even snap under hardly any power.

Also my battery has died plenty of times on the car and even replaced it. In fact its probably dead again now as I've not driven it for about a month. The map and data will still remain on there.

There were a few more things I was going to say but after reading 8 pages I've forgotten.

Hope you get it sorted mate

Data should be available straight away. If it was me I'd wonder why the data's taking so long to materialise. The longer it takes, the more I'd be thinking that it's doctored data from a different car, but that's just my own opinion, and would refer to any major work on any car at any garage, anywhere. Wouldn't matter whether it's a supercharger or an LPG conversion, it's still the same.

*climbs back up on fence*

totally agree with you fella.

@ Cho, tell em you want it yesterday and if they don't have it at their immediate disposal, then it tstrengthens your case IMO.

Also fella, my mechanic mate doesn't know of anywhere local do get that report done i'm afraid. sorry fella, i tried for ya.

No probs mate, found a guy who is based in Rugby so not too far from me. He gave me some really good advice and I am jappy to get the engineers report done.

ahh, good on ya mate. all the best with it anyway. IMHO, i would say boost levels were unsafe, but thats an opinion and nothing more. hopefully you'll get to the bottom of this with little/no cost to yourself and get it all sorted out matey.

all the best

rob

Please remember Adie, as you are, sort of in the same boat