Just keeping those who are interested informed.

The auto mirror close on alarm set is now on test. Set the alarm on the keyfob and the mirrors close fine. Costs about £20 to make and about 30mins to fit. Everything is behind the driver side kickplate so you don't need to break into the door.

There are two small issues though. Due to the signal that activates them, there are other conditions that cause the mirrors to close :

1. If you press the door unlock switch in the door several times in succession, it triggers the mirrors to close. They open up again straight away if the key is in the ignition.

2. If you use the keyfob to open the boot, it triggers the mirrors. Again, if the key is in the ignition they open straight up again.

This is only because of the trigger I've had to use - I just cannot find an alarm trigger for them. For now, I've taken it off one of the central locking feeds.

These are only minor issues but irritating - at least it gets the unit on test though.

I've been doing it blindly but I should have the manual shortly, so as soon as I can find a suitable trigger it will be complete.

Just to be geeky - here is a small video of it working [url="http://www.geoffh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/closure/DSCF0001.AVI"]HERE[/url]

Great new Geoffers, I cant wait to get one mate!

Any news on the total closure???

My mate has just done his so they close/open on ignition

and he is gonna make full closure from key fob,if all goes

well he can do mine but he dont know yet

Pete

Superb news Geoffers.... will you be at Gaydon for us all to witness this wonderful invention.....?

I wanted it on keyfob because I usually walk away from the car thinking "Did I lock it then...." Now I just glance back and if the mirrors are closed I know I have!

Everybody - let me know - I can do them on ignition key removal if people want it. (That is actually a lot easier.)

Can't make Gaydon this time round. Bummer. (Family stuff - can't get out of it), If we do the mini meet around Chester in April I'll be there.

I have tryed this and the driver mirror stopped working within a month and it started playing up one in one out and that sort of thing new mirror was a few bob to.

There was a reason for the problem but i cant remember what it was the left mirror is fed from the right mirror or some thing like that and the control for the mirror is in the right side or some thing it was so long ago i cant remember what it was now.

On the SC the mirrors do not work without the ignition on but they do on the IS am right?

Hope you do it but test it for a long time with hevey use.

i have folding mirrors when i arm the alarm and total closure apart from sunroof but have worked out how to do that
mirrors fold whne armed and open when key is in ignition or when i remote start it ...

but didnt you strip your alarm out and fit a total new system ??

not £20 really is it

nice paint job btw

On the IS, the power is also cut with the ignition off. This is why I've put a timer on to add power for about 5 secs. (slightly over the time really needed for the closure.) Also, on the IS, there should be no reason why the mirrors would get out of sync because they open and close with polarity. (Pos=close, Neg=open).

I've taken the main feed before the point it splits for the mirrors, emulating the voltages present when you operate the switch with the ignition on.

I was about to post my diagram but I'll hold off for now until I've tested it for longer. I've been hitting it quite a lot over the weekend so I'll just keep doing this for another few weeks.

Try and have a think what your problems were and the methods you used and post ASAP please. I'm grateful for any info/problems/constructive critisism on this.

swz-lexus - where did you connect to the mirrors on your closure? I've used the supply feeds in the footwell harness as it comes out of the door feed connector. (white/black stripe+silver spots & Grey/silver spots)

[url="http://www.geoffersh.webspace.virginmedia.com/closure/is200amc.pdf"]HERE[/url]

Oh, by the way - got rid of the first issue of them closing when the door lock switch is presssed a few times. It was just a trigger pulse getting picked up - I've changed a cap.

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 22 2003, 05:37 PM']Everybody - let me know - I can do them on ignition key removal if people want it. (That is actually a lot easier.)[/quote]
I'd much prefer it on the key fob. I find it irritating when the mirrors are closed
to look over my shoulder to see if any thing is coming before I get out

Good point - that one annoys me too but I never thought about it.

I cant remeber the problems i had but i was not powering the ignition up i was driving the motors on the mirros direct but in my mind im sure i remember that the pasenger was driven for the driver s or the other way round but if you are just liking on the pules wire and feeding the ignition then you will be ok does you alarm still work doing it this way (ie does it think the key in in the ignition) in not then you shuld be ok.


Chek to make sur the alarm still sounds etc

Alarm still fine. The relay physically disconnects the leads that come from the distribution board so there is literally only power to the mirrors and no back feed into the vehicle system.

The switch is a mechanical changover so effectively all I'm doing is the changover before it hits the switch.

Here's a quick diagram of the relay when it is in the timed closure position. The relay then shuts off returning the connections to their original state. This also means that if the unit is switched off or ever fails, it's home position allows the mirrors to function normally. The connection to the alarm is through a diode and capacitor so there is no remf there either.

[img]http://www.geoffh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/closure/relay.jpg[/img]

it should work good luck

Cheers. So far so good.

I've had it on since friday and absolutely hammered it.

Everything is fine so far.......

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 24 2003, 02:26 PM']Cheers. So far so good.

I've had it on since friday and absolutely hammered it.

Everything is fine so far.......[/quote]
So when can we do it!!!!!!

Ok, I'll post the full circuit diagram tonight.

Do it at your own risk this soon..... I've only had it on test for a few days. (I'm confident though)

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 24 2003, 03:12 PM']Ok, I'll post the full circuit diagram tonight.

Do it at your own risk this soon..... I've only had it on test for a few days. (I'm confident though)[/quote]
I trust you mate........

Sounds top fruit mate. Am waiting in baited breath!

Will the details also include parts info (what you need to buy). If so, and its general info, I don't mind going through finding Farnell (electronics supply place) number for it all.

Good thing about that is, anyone can do a credit card order from them and its free next day delivery. Cheaper than the likes of Maplin etc.

Anyway, well done for all you hard work and devotion.

Yep - it's the full hit from start to finish (Including making the circuit too). I've done it on veroboard so everything is readily available.

I'm trying to source a monostable with trigger input. (Just to save people making up the circuit if unsure). Maplin used to do one but I can't find it. CPC do a couple but I'd have to buy them in to see what the trigger is as they don't go into much detail.

Kev Dood - do you know of any?

I'll put together everything later on an post the lot anyway.

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 24 2003, 11:53 AM']Alarm still fine. The relay physically disconnects the leads that come from the distribution board so there is literally only power to the mirrors and no back feed into the vehicle system.

The switch is a mechanical changover so effectively all I'm doing is the changover before it hits the switch.

Here's a quick diagram of the relay when it is in the timed closure position. The relay then shuts off returning the connections to their original state. This also means that if the unit is switched off or ever fails, it's home position allows the mirrors to function normally. The connection to the alarm is through a diode and capacitor so there is no remf there either.

[img]http://www.geoffh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/closure/relay.jpg[/img][/quote]
Well done Geoffers mate,
I've had this on my IS200 for about 6 weeks now but wasn't able to find an alarm trigger!
You mention that your using a diode and a capacitor. Would i be right in assuming that the capacitor "bumps-up" the power from the Green/Orange(alarm trigger) wire enough to trip the timer relay?
If so, what size/rating capacitor have you used???(this is the only bit I'm stuck on)
Thanks in advance...

thx mate
yes i did have to take out old alarm but i have a new one thats so much better, i now have anti hijacking, i just like to protect my pride and joy i dont want to wake up one morning and the car is gone, or being hijack at some traffic lights they can take the car but they aint going to get far....

Duncan - I'm assuming you just have the relay connected and need suitable power to control it on alarm switch-on? If you want to just power the relay, can you not take the feed from the power to the microwave sensor? You may need a transistor to boost the power up (assuming a positive feed that hasn't enough current) : -

[img]http://www.geoffh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/closure/boost.jpg[/img]

You can use any common transistor (eg. BC548,547,etc.)

I'm only assuming this is how you're doing it - correct me if I'm wrong.

I didn't really want to do it this way as it means power to the mirrors all the time the car is off and relies solely on the current sensing of the mirrors. I decided to put a timer on so it will completely cut any power to them when they have finished closing. The current drain on standby is next to nothing. (Not even the relay as it powers off and returns to it's normal state after 5secs.)

The capacitor is to provide an edge trigger for the timer. It will let current pass for about 5ms which is enough to start the timer and (more importantly) prevent a permanent connection to the alarm circuit. The pulse from the alarm is about 300ms.

The diode is only to stop any reverse current getting back into the alarm if the capacitor fails so I'm being a bit over cautious really.

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 24 2003, 08:13 PM']Duncan - I'm assuming you just have the relay connected and need suitable power to control it on alarm switch-on? If you want to just power the relay, can you not take the feed from the power to the microwave sensor? You may need a transistor to boost the power up (assuming a positive feed that hasn't enough current) : -

[img]http://www.geoffh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/closure/boost.jpg[/img]

You can use any common transistor (eg. BC548,547,etc.)

I'm only assuming this is how you're doing it - correct me if I'm wrong.

I didn't really want to do it this way as it means power to the mirrors all the time the car is off and relies solely on the current sensing of the mirrors. I decided to put a timer on so it will completely cut any power to them when they have finished closing. The current drain on standby is next to nothing. (Not even the relay as it powers off and returns to it's normal state after 5secs.)

The capacitor is to provide an edge trigger for the timer. It will let current pass for about 5ms which is enough to start the timer and (more importantly) prevent a permanent connection to the alarm circuit. The pulse from the alarm is about 300ms.

The diode is only to stop any reverse current getting back into the alarm if the capacitor fails so I'm being a bit over cautious really.[/quote]
Thanks for the info mate,
I [B]am using a Sigma SIGAC05 timer to trigger two 5 pin relays.
It works great when I trigger the timer(by either touching it to an earth or feed, depending on which polarity i need to use),my problem is however, triggering the timer from the alarms Green/Orange wire(the one that supplies power to the microwave). It doesn't have enough current to switch it over!!!
Did you need to use a transistor?

Awesome !!!!!!!!!!!
Waiting for the diagrams.

problem with mirrors closing when opening trunk with kefob SOLVED !!

I got a sportcross (I can´t open trunk with keyfob)

Duncan - there shouldn't be a problem if you can use a positive feed. It effectively draws no current as it is only a trigger and bearly noticeable - a couple of microamps at the most. Are you powering your timer from it also? If so - don't. power the timer seperately with a perm 12v and only use the microwave feed as the trigger.

Or, try powering the timer with a perm feed and switch your timer onto neg. trigger and try the wire indicated on my diagram above in the pdf. If this works it's got to be the trigger at fault. As a trial, put a 1uf or above capacitor in series with your trigger feed. The ECU may be shutting down the sensor. I can't see it but it will only allow a small pulse to your trigger which is all that you need, rather than a permanent connection to it.

Does this line actually go high when the alarm is set? I've not metered it. There are two lines to the sensor - one is a signal on activation and the other is power. The other line is just green - what state is this in with the alarm set/unset?

Funny, but I was thinking of changing the circuit slightly and connecting to this myself if it only goes high when the alarm is set - it is only a minor change but it means I won't be posting the circuit diagram here until I've done it. (No point in people making up the circuit if I'm going to modify it).

I should be able to do this tomorrow.

I'll keep you all posted!

Geoffers - regarding the monostable with trigger input, thought that most had this.

Monostables such as the CD4047BC, SN54121 or SN74121 or even LM555 has a trigger input. Some are only positive trigger though, CD... has both I think.

Myabe I am misunderstanding what you meant - could you explain more? What one are you trying to use at moment?

I was actually thinking of a ready made monostable for people who aren't into electronics that just has a trigger and an output. I'm posting the full circuit diagram, but some will be put off. (Don't mean to sound condescending to anyone here!)

I'm using a ua555 at the moment - the lower power version of the LM555. (Only because it has a perm feed so it's standby current is only a few microamps.)

The 555 only has a negative trigger but I can't find one on the Lexus alarm (other than the one I've used) so I'm going to use the microwave positive feed. As you are probably aware, it's only a case of dropping a tranny in first to switch the pos. trig to a negative one. (And a cap and resistor)

I decided to go for the 555 as space is very limited and you can use a VERY small box. As you are aware, the readily available potting boxes come in set sizes so I wanted to make the circuit as small as poss. I've done it on veroboard so everybody can make one from off the shelf stuff. With the board, switch and relay, it's a bit tight. The physical location in the footwell makes it awkward to say the least.

I know it's only a minor difference, but the other IC's are 14 pin (Or SMD which couldn't really go on vero) so the board would be slightly wider / higher and it makes all the difference.

It's only physical limitations really. If you look at the pdf and where it is mounted, you can see why it's tight. (which is why I used a sloping box. Here's a piccy of the box and circuit inside.

Sorry - forgot to add the pics :

[img]http://www.geoffh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/closure/inside1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.geoffh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/closure/outside.jpg[/img]

As you can see, it all fits quite nicely and you get an idea of the size by the ignition key.

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 25 2003, 10:59 AM']I was actually thinking of a ready made monostable for people who aren't into electronics that just has a trigger and an output.[/quote]
Definately for me please Geoffers - Couldn't manage without.

[quote name='RYX' date='Mar 25 2003, 11:42 AM'][quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 25 2003, 10:59 AM']I was actually thinking of a ready made monostable for people who aren't into electronics that just has a trigger and an output.[/quote][/quote]
Me too please....................

certainly looks the biz, nice and compact.

Will have a quick trawl for a better mono then, smallest pin count and leaded being a priority. Though you will still need a few caps and R's to set the time (so to speak!!)

If you want, PM me the schematic, can get a full picture then of whats happening.

Sounds like theres not much too it but a little hard thought.

Access is a big pain down there, at least it will be out of site though. Wonder if we could get a LEXUS switch from their parts dept. to go in a spare slot in dash - maybe one near rear fog bit???

back again.

How about the Philips ICM7555 which has a much lower supply current, about 80-100uA. Can supply 100mA.

Are you buffering the outputs, seeing as they will effectively drive a cable?

Guess you probably know this site anyway, but have a look through www.farnell.com (redirects to uk1.farnell.com) then click online catalogue, semiconductors, IC's, timers, there are loads there, was thinking about lower power ones and cheap (most about the 50p mark) Then all you need is a couple of caps a resistor and whatever else you had (tranny, relay etc).

Seems most with non-inverting inputs are 14-16 pin.

What length of time is the trigger pulse, and what output pulse width do you need?

Its sad really, that I can get so involved in this (what we call a "homer") yet can't be bothered to do my actual work!!

I was thinking of the complete mono, including R's and C' with just a pot to adjust the time. It's annoying because Maplin used to do one.

We have the circuit to build, it was just to save users adding any componants. All that would be needed is to solder the wires on to it and the relay.

I'm in work now, I'll PM you later.

oooh didn't know you could get them. Would think they would be bigger...though thinking about it, probably not!!

okey dokey

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Mar 25 2003, 01:28 AM']Duncan - there shouldn't be a problem if you can use a positive feed. It effectively draws no current as it is only a trigger and bearly noticeable - a couple of microamps at the most. Are you powering your timer from it also? If so - don't. power the timer seperately with a perm 12v and only use the microwave feed as the trigger.

Or, try powering the timer with a perm feed and switch your timer onto neg. trigger and try the wire indicated on my diagram above in the pdf. If this works it's got to be the trigger at fault. As a trial, put a 1uf or above capacitor in series with your trigger feed. The ECU may be shutting down the sensor. I can't see it but it will only allow a small pulse to your trigger which is all that you need, rather than a permanent connection to it.

Does this line actually go high when the alarm is set? I've not metered it. There are two lines to the sensor - one is a signal on activation and the other is power. The other line is just green - what state is this in with the alarm set/unset?

Funny, but I was thinking of changing the circuit slightly and connecting to this myself if it only goes high when the alarm is set - it is only a minor change but it means I won't be posting the circuit diagram here until I've done it. (No point in people making up the circuit if I'm going to modify it).

I should be able to do this tomorrow.

I'll keep you all posted![/quote]
Hi Geoffers,
Is the green/brown in your pdf a neg. output from the door locking, or is it from the alarm to the microwave(pos. output).....(didn't have time to check it with the multimeter) ?

I'm using 2x 5 pin relays to do my motor interupt circuit(one relay closes the mirrors and the other opens them again) I did it this way coz i may link both relays to the locking circuit, sothat the mirrors close when locking the car via the key fob, and then open up again when the alarm is switched off.
I have done this in a mock-up on my car and it works great. You do however need to use 2xtimers, one for each relay.

The timers only allow the relays to be active for 4 seconds, which is enough time for the mirrors to close/open.
This means the relays are'nt drawing any current when the cars standing with the alarm on...

PS: I'm not into electronics like yourself, so i havn't "home grown" any circuitry. My two relays are ordinary 12v 5 pin relays available from any car shop at about £3 each, and the adjustable timers i've used are Sigma SIGAC05 which are available from most car security outlets.

FOR ANYONE OUT THERE WHO'S THINKING "WHAT THE F*CKS A CAP/RESISTOR/TRANSISTOR etc.. and for those of us (including myself) who hav'nt a clue about electronics and circuitry IT CAN BE DONE WITH BIG DUMB RELAYS AND A BIT OF WIRE!!!!....

(hats of to you geoffers mate...."YOU DE MAN".....)

The output is actually from the door locking and alarm ECU combined. It is a negative output.

If you connect to the locking circuit, wouldn't the mirrors close if you locked them by the door switch while you're driving? I thought of that method too, but using the deadlock as the trigger (so they wouldn't trigger by locking the doors internally) but there isn't a seperate signal - it's just an extended tone for the deadlock.

I've used a single timer and single relay. Can you draw a small circuit to show me how you've done yours? I'm not familiar with the timers you are using, but my circuit is just a timer and relay - that's all. I've probably just gone into too much detail really.

When using 2 relays rather than a single changeover, isn't there a danger if you have 'sticky contacts'? Wouldn't you be applying pos to ground at the same time?

If you can show me a way of doing it with a couple of relays and wire, I'd really like to see it! Seriously, I would - we can all overlook the obvious sometimes - I just can't picture it or see why Lexus didn't do it if this is the case.

Isn't the sigma an electronic timing circuit just like mine? I would like to see them - are they on any website? Do you have any details or anything? I'll call round a few places tomorrow and have a look for them. I'm sure we could use them as it will be exactly the same as my timing circuit but ready made. (which is what I'm looking for to save people making them). How much are they?

Managed to source Timer relays perfect for the job.WWW.directed.com(Clifford product).
Part number 528T PULSE TIMER RELAY.

[quote name='DUNCAN' date='Mar 31 2003, 07:42 PM']Managed to source Timer relays perfect for the job.WWW.directed.com(Clifford product).
Part number 528T PULSE TIMER RELAY.[/quote]
I'm using two of these timer relays. One to close the mirrors on locking the doors, and the other to open them up again when the doors are unlocked. This is fully functional and has been working fine on my car for over a week now without any side effects.
The timers are switched though a relay, triggered from the ignition key sothat if you want to lock/unlock the doors while your driving, it won't effect the mirrors.
I've also fitted a "valet " switch which cuts the earth supply to the timers, sothat the mirror functin can be switched off if need be(servicing).
The switch of the timer relays is done via a "two way" micro switch linked to the lock/unlock button inside the drivers door. I did it this way to prevent any unforseable problems arrising with the central locking(warranty on the locking system is still valid) as no locking wires have been touched.

Will post a diagram of my system for all to see, when I get chance to draw one up...
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT GUYS

Check out pdf by Geoffers, for wire colours and location.
Sorry in advance for freehand diagram (didn't have much time).

Cheers Duncan, Good way of doing it!

I was trying to keep the complexity down and wiring, so I've done mine slightly differently in that it closes the mirrors on alarm set, and opens them again on ignition. I see why you have two timers/relay now. Using a single changeover relay and single timer just restores the mirror circuit to it's normal state when the ignition is back on. (You can disable the circuit as well of course.)

I've found a source for the timers in the UK for about a tenner. I've ordered one in so I'll test it and see how it goes then post it on here.

Everybody now has both options.

Nice one!

[quote name='Geoffers' date='Apr 1 2003, 12:09 AM']Cheers Duncan, Good way of doing it!

I was trying to keep the complexity down and wiring, so I've done mine slightly differently in that it closes the mirrors on alarm set, and opens them again on ignition. I see why you have two timers/relay now. Using a single changeover relay and single timer just restores the mirror circuit to it's normal state when the ignition is back on. (You can disable the circuit as well of course.)

I've found a source for the timers in the UK for about a tenner. I've ordered one in so I'll test it and see how it goes then post it on here.

Everybody now has both options.

Nice one![/quote]
The timers I'm using, can be triggered by a + or - pulse, or by a change of state(from + to - or vice-versa).
Would this help you in developing another way around it?

Yep - I've actually ordered a similar timer to the ones you're using. (Would like the same type but can't seem to source them from the UK)

My latest circuit does both pos+neg, but I wanted something ready built for users who aren't into electronics or just couldn't be bothered building it from scratch. All people will have to do is add a double poll changeover relay, make the connections in the footwell and that's it.

You've done us a favour finding these ready made.

Cheers mate.

Found a place near me that stocks my timer relays. They can be ordered over the internet, or by giving them a call.
Check out: www.ikelectronics.com
(couldn't find the timers on their website, but have been into the shop and seen them on the shelves)

[quote name='DUNCAN' date='Mar 31 2003, 09:01 PM'][quote name='DUNCAN' date='Mar 31 2003, 07:42 PM']Managed to source Timer relays perfect for the job.WWW.directed.com(Clifford product).
Part number 528T PULSE TIMER RELAY.[/quote]
I'm using two of these timer relays. One to close the mirrors on locking the doors, and the other to open them up again when the doors are unlocked. This is fully functional and has been working fine on my car for over a week now without any side effects.
The timers are switched though a relay, triggered from the ignition key sothat if you want to lock/unlock the doors while your driving, it won't effect the mirrors.
I've also fitted a "valet " switch which cuts the earth supply to the timers, sothat the mirror functin can be switched off if need be(servicing).
The switch of the timer relays is done via a "two way" micro switch linked to the lock/unlock button inside the drivers door. I did it this way to prevent any unforseable problems arrising with the central locking(warranty on the locking system is still valid) as no locking wires have been touched.

Will post a diagram of my system for all to see, when I get chance to draw one up...
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT GUYS [/quote]
Have now added total window closure, so by pressing the lock button on the ignition key not only locks the doors and sets the alarm, it aso closes the mirrors and windows.
Pressing the un-lock button un-locks the doors, switches the alarm off, and opens the mirrors back up again
Has been on test all weakend with no side affects!!!!...

Fantastic.

That's the next add on to mine - just another relay with a couple more contacts. Do you rely solely on the currrent sensing for the windows or have you put in a microswitch or any other sort of detector? I'm just a bit concerned about the current drain. The current sensors in the windows are that sensitive.

I've not actually timed the windows yet - Have you left it on 4.5 - 5 secs?

Top job to both you guys!!

These are two EXCELLENT mods - both of which I would love to have on my IS200 !!

Well done and many thanks for your hard work

Second that - pat yourselves on the back.

[quote name='DUNCAN' date='Apr 6 2003, 07:51 PM'][quote name='DUNCAN' date='Mar 31 2003, 09:01 PM'][quote name='DUNCAN' date='Mar 31 2003, 07:42 PM']Managed to source Timer relays perfect for the job.WWW.directed.com(Clifford product).
Part number 528T PULSE TIMER RELAY.[/quote]
I'm using two of these timer relays. One to close the mirrors on locking the doors, and the other to open them up again when the doors are unlocked. This is fully functional and has been working fine on my car for over a week now without any side effects.
The timers are switched though a relay, triggered from the ignition key sothat if you want to lock/unlock the doors while your driving, it won't effect the mirrors.
I've also fitted a "valet " switch which cuts the earth supply to the timers, sothat the mirror functin can be switched off if need be(servicing).
The switch of the timer relays is done via a "two way" micro switch linked to the lock/unlock button inside the drivers door. I did it this way to prevent any unforseable problems arrising with the central locking(warranty on the locking system is still valid) as no locking wires have been touched.

Will post a diagram of my system for all to see, when I get chance to draw one up...
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT GUYS [/quote]
Have now added total window closure, so by pressing the lock button on the ignition key not only locks the doors and sets the alarm, it aso closes the mirrors and windows.
Pressing the un-lock button un-locks the doors, switches the alarm off, and opens the mirrors back up again
Has been on test all weakend with no side affects!!!!... [/quote]
Sunroof has now been added to the closure system. Slide and tilt, both working...

Hi guys,

whatever happened to this? was a kit made, or sold, or a post put up on how to do it etc ? I see Mr-Lex posted about having done it - I'm eager to get it done !

Once again - well done !