Am about to change front caliper, both front discs and pads, but i read somewhere on the forum that the caliper piston (if im not mistaken) should be lubricated with slicone greese and not copper slip (think thats what the greese is called). why is that? and what lubricating material should i use on the back of the pads (if any is needed)?

Also is there any particular area on the caliper that shouldn't be painted, as i will do this myself this time round with the new caliper?

Cheers!

if the piston caliper is stuck then silicone grease can help to free it, if the piston is working fine then dont bother. do not use copper slip to try lubricate the piston as it will destroy the rubber seal.
use copper slip ( sparingly) on the back of the pads between the shims and on the ends of the pad where it goes into the caliper to help prevent brake squeel.

do not paint anything that has clips, rubber or moving parts.

when refitting the wheel put a very thin film of copper slip on the mounting pad of the wheel - this will stop it sticking onto the hub.

Cheers for the advice m8, greatly appriciated!

Rob's right only put copper slip on the parts of the pad where it touches (see old pad) the piston and ends , do not put onto the surface that touches the disc , a thin layer of silicon grease will not harm anything around where the piston sits but apply sparingly with a cotton bud , do not use copper grease anywhere near the pistons as it has small particles of copper ( )
and will cause wear , I have always used lubricants from a gunsmith to lube the pistons inside the seals , the type used for air rifles as it doesn't harm the seals , again cotton bud for application . If you can get a high temp copper grease so it wont melt with heat and drip , Partco sell this in tubs and its cheap as chips .
Hope this helps M8
Regards
Paul.

Well the discs are on+Mintex pads, it's a nice touch as well as being a bit uprated. Doesn't seem to have rusted up after a wash like OEM ones do, but these will do over time. Could have got a pair that is (ionzied?) coated with no rust material (EBC ones), but the only problem is that they don't do the same for the rear and are coloured and the fact im in a hurry to get this done before going back to work next week. They told me it will take a week or so if they was to coat the RS-10. Would have loved to but time was of an essence. So i opted for normal RS-10s like Aaron instead, as i will be getting same for rear in due time. Car brakes ofcourse doesn't sqeek now, steering doesn't shake together with gear stick nor pull to one side when steering is let loose. Car coasts more and already feel that these "bite" more than OEM ones. Fuel consumption will probably go down by 10% cos of the previous seized brake caliper. Will see if these pads dust up as much as lexus pads do.







Will see how these perform after a few hundred miles! All this cos there was sqeeking coming from the wheels when i was driving and had a fortune cookie that said this:-



How wrong can it be?!?!