Disclaimer: AS always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines.

Tools required (excluding wheel removal):



1. Breaker Bar (only required if changing discs)
2. 1/2 inch drive rachet (optional)
3. Large screwdriver or lever
4. 17mm open ended spanner
5. 14mm ring spanner
6. Copper grease
7. Piston retraction tool (g-clamp or anything similar for pushing the pistons back).
8. 17mm socket (not pictured)

OK, now down to the nitty gritty. I will do the whole thing including wheel removal just incase someone doesn't know how to do it.

1. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) wheel nuts before jacking up the car.



2. Open the bonnet and remove brake fluid resevoir cap



3. Jack up the car and support on axle stands.



4. Remove wheel nuts and remove wheel to expose the brakes



5. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary but made phtographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. You can just remove the bottom bolt and pivot the whole caliper up around the top pin, because I am going to remove the disc too I will remove the caliper completely.

top.



bottom



6. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly.



7. Now remove the caliper



8. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand).



9. Now the pads can be removed. Take off the two springs that span across the disc between the pads. And pull the pads out from the front and rear.





10. Push back the pistons. I use a retraction tool but you can use alsorts, g-clamps, bits of wood, whatever. This is where removing the resevoir cap in step two comes into place. Keep an eye on the fluid level as you retract the pistons. If the resevoir is going to overflow, draw off some of the fluid from the resevoir (i use a syringe for this). If the fluid has not been topped off as the pads wear, you shouldn't get any overflow.

11. Now We can go about removing the disc. Obviously if you are only changing pads, you can skip the next few steps. Using a 17mm socket and the breaker bar undo and remove the caliper mount bracket. These bolts are darn tight, so although the breaker bar is not mandatory, it makes the job a whole lot easier





12. Remove the mount



13. The discs are not fastened to the hub (not on the GS anyway) so the disc will come straight off.






Re-assembly is the reverse of the removal with the exception of using the copper grease in various places. This is not mandatory but it will help reduce/illiminate brake squeel. Apply a small amount between the disc and hub surfaces. Also apply to the piston faces and bwteen the pads/shims/calipers. Make sure you do not get any grease on the pad surfaces.





Don't forget to put the springs back on tht link the pads.

Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs)
Caliper mount to hub bolts are 118 Nm (87 ft lbs)

Once everything is back together and the wheel goes back on, tighten the wheel nuts in the sequence shown below, torqued to 103 Nm (76 ft lbs)




I hope this tutorial helps somebody. Any questions, please feel free to ask.

Good instructions, but it will be wise to wrap an old rag around the brake fluid resevoir in case of any spillage.

Yup, you can do that too although as mentioned it is wiser to keep an eye on the fluid and not let it overflow

If it is full i have an old kitchen baster to take some of the fluid out

He he, Yesterday, we replaced Discs and Pads in my Lex and I've make loots of photos to put manual on this forum He he - You was faster than me

absolutley fantastic !

thanks tigerfish!!

thanks for taking the time and effort. im sure eveyone on this forum will appreciate your tutorial, now and for future reference.

finest1

The Mk2 GS (JZS160) has the same front brakes, but before pushing the caliper pistons back you should press the brake pedal about 20 times with the ignition off in order to relieve the pressure in the master cylinder accumulator.

Great pics & write-up.
Anyone got a similar one for the rear discs/rear pads IS200 ?

i will do them at wim for you big fella

If I have enough free time tomorrow, I'll do a similar write up for the rears. If time is against me, I'll do one next weekend if you can wait 'til then Wozza.

I'd appreciate this greatly aswell!

It may also be a good idea to put a little copper slip on the part of the disc that makes contact with the hub.

The person who changed the discs before I brought the car had not done this and the discs had fused to the hub with rust.
The discs would not budge, even with a club hammer, in the end we ended up giving it couple of blows with a sledge hammer.

HTH
Paul

Yup, definately worth doing. It was already in the write up though

whoops , my bad

sorry didnt see that