Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines.

One thing that was really annoying me was when driving at low speeds, the slightest bump would give a rattling noise from the front of the car. The culprit being the worn/rusted slide pins allowing the caliper to move slightly and the metal on metal ,slide pin and caliper mount, clanking together.

Tools required (excluding wheel removal):

1. Large screwdriver or lever
2. 17mm open ended spanner
3. 14mm ring spanner
4. Copper grease
5. Hammer
6. 21mm socket
7. flat blade screwdriver or chisel.

OK, now down to the nitty gritty. Jack up vehicle and support on axle stands, please see this topic for wheel removal etc --> clicky

1. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary it made photographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case.

top.



bottom



2. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly.



3. Now remove the caliper



4. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand).



for the rest of the overhaul, I have removed the caliper mount to make it easier to photograph

5. The caliper mount showing the dust boot. The slide pins just pull out. If the grease has hardened, they can be hard to budge. A bit of penetrating oil helps free them up a bit and aid removal.



6. We need to remove and renew the boot if it is damaged or split. I used an old chisel and a hammer to remove.

7. Now we need to put the new dust boot on. For this you need to thread the rubber boot into a 21mm socket. Make sure the whole of the rubber part is inside the socket and the socket is resting on the metal washer.







8. Now offer up the socket and boot to the caliper mount and using a hammer gently tap it in. Be careful that you don't catch the rubber boot between the socket and washer/caliper mount.





9. Now the new slide pins. One is referred to as the Main slide, the other as the sub. Not sure why but there you go, the "main" is the one with the indent around the tip. This will hold the bush, which is just a rubber ring in reality and is slipped over the "main" slide pin,







10. Now just apply lithium grease to the pin and slide it in.



Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs).

Any questions, please shout.

Excellent guide. how long did it take ?
Apporx cost of replacement parts & part numbers ?

Cheers Wozza.

Took me about an hour in total without rushing at all and doing pics etc. If I was in a hurry, I recon half hour tops to do both sides.

As far as cost goes, I got all 4 pins for 99p on ebay but from Lexus the pins are approx £8 each. Boots are about £8 I think (I didn't actually need any new ones), and the bush about £4 I think. I actually made a bush myself out of a piece of piping from my pressurised brake bleeding kit as only one was on any of the pins I took out. Worked a treat.

Part numbers for fronts:
2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide
2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide
2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide
2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Part numbers for rears:
2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide
2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide
2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide
2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Looking at the parts, it does look like you could if needed or wanted to, use 4 pins of either type. Personally, I would use atleast one pin on each side that has the bush on it, as that would tend to stop any rattles.

Those are the part numbers for a Mk1 GS, the number may be the same for other models but obviously best to check.

Cheers for the info, might well do this at the WIM LOC day, as I am changing front & rear pads.
I probably wont bother with doing the rear pins, just the fronts to get rid of the annoying rattle.

I also see that for the pins lithium soap base glycol grease you say is reccomended instead of coppaslip ?
Can I get this from a local motor factors etc ?

Also on Ebay where would I look for the pins etc ?

Yup, the grease can be got from the motor factors, Comma Lith-Molly CV grease is one.

Unfortunately mate, the pins off ebay were just a one off from the seller, they haven't got anything listed at the moment.

Will this also remove the clunking noise, when braking at slow speeds?

Should well do, I will be doing mine 13th July, will let you know how we get on.

Yup, it has on mine although you should double check the ball joints while you are doing the job as play in these could give various knocks and clunks aswell.

think i may be doing that for the big man neil