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tridentmorph
I did this as I realy didn't like the tomtom power cable hanging over my dash (hey it's the pursuit of perfection), click on underlined text for loads more photos, but first section could be useful for many different power needs whilst keeping lighter free.
Click to view attachment


Thanks go out to redz_uk, sparkystav and geoffers for advice in doing this. Oh, whilst the fuse section may not be vital it can't hurt. smile.gif


First assemble all you need (if you have tools less than a tenner from maplins plus an old plug for Tomtom bit).

You will need:
car accessory socket (£2.29)
twin power cable 15amp (2m x £1.89)
in-line blade fuseholder (£1.29)
10amp blade fuse (0.49)
snaplock connectors (1.39 for 10)
Zip-ties ("borrowed" from work)

Tools:
Screwdriver
Butter knife
Knife/wire cutters
Soldering Iron

Raided Maplins

For Tomtom cable tidy
You will need:
The rubber end out of the cable entry for a plug (see photo for what I mean)
The tomtom power cable that came with it

Tools:
Drill
12mm drillbit
Superglue



1) Remove front section of dash under steering wheel, three screws, one bottom at each end and one under steering wheel should be removed.
Dash Removal

2) Using a butter knife (or similar) carefully lever up the gear surround (autos should be put into Neutral) then you can get up the section with the cig lighter. You can see the connection we will be splicing into at the bottom of the lighter socket.
Removing section by gears

3) Feed the cable between from the rear section behind footwell through the gap and pull it through. You could remove this side section to but did without having to.
Cable Fed Through

4) Adjust the cable length to suit where you want the power connector to be hidden.

5) The inline fuseholder comes with a red cable loop, cut this in half and strip back wire
Inline fuseholder prepared

6) The fuseholder should be attached to the red (live) cable, I soldered and then used a snaplock for tidyness (and safety) sake.
Connect the cable - soldered

7) Feed the striped cable and the other end of the fuseholder through the cable entry for the car accessory socket

8) Solder the red live cable to the centre section of the accessory socket and the striped cable to the outer edge. Screw back together.
Soldered Socket

9) Unclip the fuseholder and put in a ten amp blade fuse (depending on the application may need to use a 15amp but 10amp should generally do). This end now finished.
Finished Connection end with Fuse

10) Now we need to connect the other end to the current cigarette lighter socket, first step is to fix the ends to the single side of the snaplock, i soldered in for strength.
Preparing the snaplock

11) Now strip back a small section of the cables leading to each of the end and side of the base of the socket. Purple/red is the live so connect to your live (red) cable and the black & white strip is the negative so connect that to your negative, photo shows one wire done one to be done. If in doubt same as your socket + in middle.
Attaching to the existing lighter

12) test cable works then make sure wires are all secured and out of the way. You can now just push the gearstick section back into place and this section is done.

13) The new socket can now be fitted behind dash with zipties. Refit dash if not doing TomTom section - You have finished.


FOR TOMTOM POWER

14) Remove the blanking plate you wish the cable to exit from. This should be drilled with a 12mm bit (just tight enough to squeeze the mini usb through).
Drilled blanking plate

15) Now connect up the power socket and feed the miniusb plug through the hole where the blanking plate was and through your newly drilled blanking plate. Using zip-ties tidy up the cabling behind the dash, allowing enough to feed through to reach your Tomtom.

16) To tidy the hole get a rubber thing from a normal plug cable inlet, which i cut to the desired length and then cut lengthways to fit round the cable.
Rubber bit off plug

17) Superglue this to the blanking plate, with the cut line facing downwards. Be careful not to also glue the plate to the cable.
Glue setting

18) When dry clip the new plate back into the dash, then refit using the three screws removed at the start.

19) Finished. - Phew. No more cable. This job can be done in an hour if you have everything to hand. (Took me a couple including pictures, finding tools etc).
Close up
With TomTom

Hope this helps. My first guide so any comments would be appriciated. biggrin.gif
Geoffers
Great stuff Mr Morph! Job well done. It would also be really good if everybody did good writeups like this.

Now you make the motorised hideaway behind the pillar cover biggrin.gif
aztecbandit1
Nice job you've done there matey biggrin.gif
sparkystav
Good job there mate.

Stav
Rabster
very nice and neat great walkthrough that will go far
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