hi there,
i was wondering if anyone could send me a wiring diagram for the lexus is200 amp and i was also wondering how hard isit to take the amp out the car
thanks

It's much easier if you let us know what you are trying to achieve first mate, as someone on LOC
will probably have done it first......fitting a sub is easy, you can do it with the amp still in place,
what are your plans ? Head unit/external amp(s)/Sub etc ?

I'm not certain as to Altezza specifications, but if your car has an external OE Amp, it will be here...


The amp can be removed quite easily, it is located behind the glovebox on the left bulkhead.
To see it, open the glovebox, and pull the sides (at the rear) towards the centre, and then the
glovebox will swing down on it's hinges. The glovebox can easily be removed totally by just
pushing the plastic hinge pins towards the centre of the glovebox.

Why do you want to remove the amp in the first place ?

The amp has two bolts you can see holding it in place, along with two stubborn cables at the rear.

well i just want to fit a vibe active 12 inch sub with the same amp and same headunit
thanks

Does that sub/amp combo have a high level input ?

If so easy peasy, run a parallel feed from the 6x9's wiring from inside the boot to provide the sound signal.
Run the amp power lead from the battery (with a suitable fuse in the engine bay) through the bulkhead
grommet by the bside of the battery , down behind the glove box to the footwell, then down the passenger
sidesill to the boot (goes through the rear bulkhead behind the rear seat).

Throught the bulkhead here by the right side of the battery


SEE HERE to remove the rear seat

Let us know how you get on

Nah i think he means he wants to run the sub off the standard amp?

If so mate, dont bother, its no good.

Follow Wozza's links and read up about it.

Stav

he said vibe active Stav

I will indeed lol

well can anyone email the amp diagrap so i can solder wires to mke a output for the sub

Take the amp input from wiring in parallel from the rear 6x9's (wires are visible from inside the boot under the shelf)
You only need this feed from one of the 6x9 speakers. That will give you a mono sub feed.

If the Vibe Active takes a hi-level imput then you are sorted.
If not you just need a Hi-Level to RCA convertor.

For what you are doing that is the simplest & easiest option.
That should be all the info you need along with my post above.

This is like the RCA converter that i used when i fitted my active sub box in my IS200 like what DJ Wozza is on
about CLICK ME!! The one i have is a JVC version and works a treat

Very simple to do as DJ Wozza above says!!, And you can get these from Halfords or ebay if you have a search, and you can get them for very little money, and simple to fit, It just connects to your 6x9 speaker wires in the rear of your lex?

wouldnt doing itthat way effect the quality of the sound of the sub
thanks

In what way ? You need to realise your system will be a compromise as your OE Lexus Head Unit
does not come with RCA Phono pre-outs.

If you want the best sound quality you have to junk the entire system, Head Unit, Speakers Front & Rear
plus the factory amp. That should answer your question. Do what we have suggested/provided info for
above and get it running, then if the quality is not what you want, then you also know what to do.
Rip it all out and replace. Quite simple really.

thanks wozza....just tought id ask

hi there again,
i habe bought the Autoleads PC1-601 Rear speaker to RCA converter kit and i was wondering whst wires do i connect it to
thanks

Did it not come with instructions ?

To get a bass feed, you need to run a feed (in parallel) from the woofer part of the 6x9
(under the rear shelf)
.
You may need to do this just to one, or to both depending on what the kits is ? (Mono or Stereo)
Without a picture of what you have bought this is really hard work.

good post,got me thinking now as i have a 12" sub in my shed waiting to go in,just a question the remote power lead that usally goes to the head unit to turn the amp on,can this be put to the bat also then a switch inline or does it get wired somewhere else???

You can take a postive trigger from the cigarette lighter as that is easily accessable, and is an ignition live,
so will switch on from the first turn position on the key.

i wouldnt use this as it may turn the amp on before the radio and cause a "thump" through the sub which may damage it.

There is a remote trigger on the HU which is the right thing to use for the job..

http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/IS_98-...ents/index.html

electrical wiring diagrams

radio & Player

RHD 8 Spkr

Any decent quality amp should have turn on protection, or if you have the boot stripped out,
there are also ign live points you can tap into.

so if i tap into the white wire from the head unit this should be a trigger for the oem amp as the diagram looks like it is.

I'll let Redz reply to that question re the Head Unit wiring, I haven't had time to look at the pdf.
Over to you Leighton

not true.. infact quite the opposite, JL dont have this

most amps wont have this as this is what the remote lead is for.. it should only send power after the SOURCE unit, in this case the HU is powered.



the switched live is acc which is black 10E, but i think that the white is a remote trigger best bet would be test it with a multimeter to be sure..

will do can this be done and wired in at the back of the head unit or best from the amp side?have just went to halfords and bought the speaker to rca connector,so will get all info and give it a bash the morn.as have wing mirrors to fit the night long story,not the lex thank god.

will be easiest and best to take the remote feed off back of HU..

make sure you take the feed off the woofer element of the rear speakers too.. im not sure if you shoud leave the rear speakers connected after this, i wouldnt recomened it
but aztec has done similar so maybe he can advise what he did..

It worked absolutely fine when all I had was a Bass Amp, and just a single Sub connected to the rest of the
standard OE system. The audio feed was taken in parallel from the woofer feed wires
(inside the boot under the rear shelf).

That was enough for a for me for a while (but then the bug bites again), then I wanted more bass.
Bass increased, but then the front stage was overpowered by the bass... then etc etc etc and so it goes on.


BTW
Leighton I never said JL did fella. I love the way you try everytime to belittle me. It's funny mate
Lots of decent quality amps do have turn on protection. Not all, but lots

belittling you?? not at all, just correcting you as you would do anbody else!!

anyway, back on topic

I think you will find that is generally the cheaper amps that have this. sometime refered to as soft turnon. this just means circuite to elimnate power spikes on turn on.. if the system turns on after it may still 'thump'..

just making sure that i give the cirrcet way to wire in and not create problems down the line

now now,lets be friends.as i take it and will have a proper go in the morning,i take a sub feed from the rear speaker,now is there two wires going to this on for the sub input and one for high mid etc,i could not see a problem if i just splice into the sub feed wire leaving it conected as it will be the same signal strenth going to the speaker as before so should not damage anything.will aslo sorce a remote feed for the amp and post all findings out once done,the only thing i could think is that if i wanted just bass from my sub i would disconect the sub wires going to the speakers in the shelf.

The tweeter wires are above the steel rear shelf (& under the speaker cover/parcel shelf), the visable wires
from the boot side are bass only on the SE or Sport models. I personally had mine running in this manner for
a few months before I started upgrading everything.

nice one thats all i needed to know,would have had this done ages ago if i had used my noodle,oh well least i can do it now.

After you have connected everything up, this may also help you.

If your amp has an adjustable crossover, it is worth experimenting with this until you get what you feel is the
best setting. I'd suggest an easy way to do this is to get someone to do it whilst you are in the drivers seat,
with small adjustments, then close the boot and see how it sounds. Anything from 50hz to 120Hz as a high
level ceiling should be fine, but trust your ears.

With regards to the setting the gain level, start with it at a low setting initially, then again slowly change it
(with your mate again), but remember you can over drive the Amp and send a clipped signal by having
the gain too high. Take your time, slightly too little bass is better than too much.

yeah has a high pass filter or crossover,had them both off before,and the gain around half,but will be totaly diffrent with the lex unit had a sweet pioneer system in old car shame it went with the car oh well,as for the ear's 6years of doing lights and stage managment for live bands and dj's should help there, know when i get the thud from the bass i want and can get from the system before it goes pop lol.

nice one, let us know how you get on

will do wozza,got me sum nice d&b just to test also lol,will do till i get a new unit and i get overtime at work again god i hate the winter nights.

all fitted and working fine just a bit of soldering to do but its in and sounding sweet,wish i had done this ages ago,just a wee note there is two black wires at the back of the headunit one is a switched live and one does not it does give a voltage of around 3.4 but drops,so no use,the other only gives a reading when head unit is on. the one you need is next to a blue and yellow wire not the red and brown side of the block.a other thing i found was that you can get to the boot, there is a hole for wires that runs along the passenger side and up the seat if you pull the seat away at the back you can see the hole and through to the boot.had a few problems to sort but was just a blowen fuse with the main feed for the amp but being in a shed for a year it was not surprising.anybody needing advise i would happy help out.

did you use this one?? (in bold)

this is the switched/remote out by the sound of it.. when the HU is on it sends a power signal when off it cuts it.. that is ideally what you want the amp to see..