How do I describe this....

Right, when I'm accelerating from using 1, 2, and even 3rd gear I feel the car is struggling (i.e moving off and or speeding). I'm not sure if I am using the right word, but it feels like the car is under-reving while pressing down on the accelerator. You can hear the engine is giving power but no result appears at first instance (I am aware the IS's kick in after 4.000 revs but this feels different) but then it slowly drags and picks up speed. It's like holding the clutch down and reving it....

Is my clutch going or is it something else? Anyone had simular problem or know what the cause can be?

I also got to stress, this happend a while ago (and for a period it stopped) but clearly noticed and felt it yesterday.

so let me see if i follow this

the cars RPM level increases, but not the speed of the car

sounds like it could be the clutch....go to dealer

If the car is reving and the clutch is up and then the cars speed starts to catch up with the revs. there is every chance your clutch plates are slipping. its not uncommon. If you do a lot of town driving and have to "ride" the clutch its bad for it. wear occours at the point that you are slipping the clutch to make that smooth change.

Is there any smells associated with it, like an aspestos burning type smell. have you lifted the hood and smelled it when it happens....

Time for a clutch me thinks, dude...



Think of it as a chance to uprate to a race clutch. otherwise known as the on off switch!

I was dreading it would be the clutch

The car does a lot of town driving....

I haven't smelt anything funny yet or tried lifting the hood for a smell but will do that tonight

I'll go to the dealer and what they say. If it is the clutch...anyone know the approx cost?

Another thing, bought the car Dec 02, so it's not been a year yet since I bought it as used. If it is the clutch, do I have any right or grounds to get the dealer to sort it or even under warranty? The car has expired the manufacturer warranty but do have 2 years extended warranty. Surely if I buy a car from a dealer, it should remain in good tact for at least a year!?!? I am aware this is wear and tear but so soon?

Loz, "race clutch" Eloborate my friend

Race clutch uses a harder substance for the friction plates than standard clutch. It means it grips sooner and is better for a quick get away. where it is not so good is at the "slipping" the clutch for a soft getway. but it will last longer.... and drop your 0-60 times...if used in anger!

other thing that it could be is that your clutch is just out of adjustment. not sure if its cable or hydraulic on your car. either way there should be some degree of adjustment. worth investgating before a full on replacement...

Normal clutch wear is not covered under warranty however a faulty clutch is as is abnormal wear. How much miles has your car done?

Hopefully you don't rest your foot on the clutch whilst driving or slip the clutch too much when pulling away but you don't know if the previous owner did.

I think it's just over 60k.

Well...suppose gotta see what the dealer says
It is hydraulic clutch and hope it's just an adjustment that needs doing than changing the whole clutch

if its whole clutch, shop around dude! if it aint under warranty, not going to a dealer can't affect ur warranty...

The voice of reason ( and thrift )

here is a tip for you dood

in a stationary mode make sure your hand brake is on full.. put the car in 4th and try and pull away.. if she does not stall instantly then the clutch is slipping.

remember to pull away as if you were pulling the clutch right up!

I dunno Sanj..

Sounds like one of those 'long stand' kinda comments

after careful observation, the damn thing does it when it's started from cold/or after a long period of not driving Once driven for a long enough period the symptons/problem goes....

I bet you...by the time I take it to the dealer the f ng thing will be working perfectly

Anyway taking it to the dealer later today...will see what they say

clutch cable not sticking?

Dealer had a look...and it is the clutch! Bloody thing slips when accelerating hard.

Good and bad news...dealer will speak to warranty people and see if it can be done under the extended warranty If not then I'm paying Still waiting for that crucial call from the dealer

Right, dealer comfirmed it is wear and tear and will cost me almost 500 smackers!!!! The only good thing about this is, 15% off as a special LOC Gold Member So go GOLD and save £££'s I did, so you know you want to

Why don't you take this opportunity to get an uprated aftermarket clutch Sanj? Better on the long run, and I can't see it being as expensive as the standard (especially with GOLD discount)..... just a thought........

Alas, us ordinary folk don't have a clue..

Tell us some good uprated clutches!

I assume you can ask a garage to order the part and put it in for you?

Ok, there are loads of Uprated clutches available.... most performance outlets stock them (EBC, Helix etc...) but I doubt your local dealer would fit it for you.

Some different types available from Helix:

HEAVY DUTY COVER ASSEMBLY
The Helix clutch is intended for applications where the engine / vehicle performance has been increased above standard. All Helix Racing Clutches are manufactured from new components to the highest standards using the best materials available, they are designed to give a higher clamp load to cope with the higher torque capacity together with an increase engine rpm. The units can be fitted as a direct replacement for the standard unit without modification to the flywheel and retaining the standard clutch release mechanism. There are a few exceptions and these are identified in the catalogue.

DRIVE PLATE ORGANIC SPRUNG CENTRE
This type of drive plate is suitable for road use and light competition work. The design features damper springs arranged radially around the hub centre which together with facing segments provides progressive engagement and greater degree of clutch control. The organic facing material used is the best high performance material available with facings over 200mm diameter being metal backed to give a much higher burst strength.

DRIVE PLATE ORGANIC RIGID CENTRE
The rigid type of drive plate is not fitted with any form of damper cushioning and is specifically designed for more arduous conditions where the degree of comfort / refinement is second to durability and strength. Again only the best high performance organic friction facing material is used.

DRIVE PLATE CERAMETALLIC SPRUNG CENTRE
This type of drive plate is more suitable for high energy competition applications like rallying although it can be used for road use where the organic drive plate cannot withstand the higher operating temperatures. The design incorporates a sprung centre to provide some protection against drive line shock . Manufactured with a rigid adaptor plate ( instead of cushion segments ) incorporating cerametallic pads as shown. This cerametallic material keeps its friction properties to a much higher temperature than the organic material.

DRIVE PLATE CERAMETALLIC RIGID CENTRE
The rigid cerametallic drive plate has no form of damper or segment cushioning and is designed primarily for the most arduous of working conditions where strength and durability are paramount with the heat resistant properties of the cerametallic friction pads.

Zee,

I was really thinking about that...and come to think of it I should have now! I had to take the car to the dealer today and the only way they can determine if it is manufacture fault is by taking the gear box and clutch off. And the result was WEAR & TEAR So decided to have it done by them when the dealer phoned as I was f ed off with the answer....very rash decison come to think of it Plus didn't feel like shopping and have it fitted by "rogue" garages. So it's done...too late to change my mind....

Either way...it will drive better than it was

Now you've made my day even worse...

Its hydraulic Steve

all present and correct Now Sanj?

Looking forward to some standing start action??

Loz

Simply PERFECT

Feels and drives much better! Didn't realise how bad my previous clutch was. Also the gear change seems at the moment better than usual So word of advise, those who are having problem with gear changing - get the clutch also checked out

- name the time, venue....im ready loz...

p.s. excellent service from Lexus Hadliegh

Sanj, I'm gonna get my clutch replaced (well want to).. my 2nd and 3rd are poor.

How much did they charge? Just so I have some point of reference.

Thanks!

ps. Car is still under warranty, I will try to get them to cut the price down by a substantial amount, especially seeing as I've only had the car 2 months.

£500 sounds familar...

..that's nothing for a pimp

You can try getting done under warranty but if it is wear and tear then they won't have it
With the LOC Gold discount (15% inc labour) came total of £380...

Wear and tear after 2 months of no driving?? (it sat in my front drive pretty much the entire time!)

Under warranty they will try it on with a reconditioned clutch maybe.. I'll offer to pay some amount towards a new clutch.. just hope it works out for me as it did for you Sanj

Is this a new car? If so then the warranty will cover abnormal wear. If it's a used car then the warranty will not cover a worn clutch due to wear and tear. The clutch would have been worn before you purchased the warranty, and they don't fix problems that already exist nor replace items are just at the end of their life.

However you may be able to make the dealer pay as it seems they sold you a car that is not acceptable.

Thanks Colin, top advice from a top barber.