Neofate

Air was in the system after I finished with it, thats for sure. Now if air was causing the problem of ZERO power steering unless I was going relatively fast.. (and then I couldn't tell) -- I don't know. Ultimately what I did worked. However, I did notice after 2 hours of driving today, back in the driveway at home, it made a slight moan (subtle) when at idle when I parked and turned the wheel side to side to check. *That was my original problem with the old pump,.. a moan at idle and low speeds,.. that fixed itself with just a few hundred rpms of rev* -- That might be coming back.. hrmm. Pump is different this time, so shouldn't that rule out a pump problem? Could it STILL have air in it? I can't think of anything else it could possibly be. It functions fine though. I anticipate on cold startup it won't make any , even, subtle noise. Also, my pulley on the PS pump wobbled severely on the old one. The new one it STILL wobbles, just not as bad. So I suppose the same pulley was used on the new pump. Given that scenario, is it likely the pulley is simply bent in some manner? Not likely the new pump has a bent shaft or bearing like the old one could have had. This any worry? Could it be causing any issue? Can I take the pulley off and bend it back? Or have a machine shop get it straight again? Anyhow.. to your question. Yes it is a great neighborhood and city to live in. I live in Alabama. But more particularly, Birmingham, AL. Best place in the state without a doubt. Doesn't have your typical connotations 'Alabama' is associated with. If you go to Alabama for anything, go to Birmingham, Huntsville, or Montgomery (in that order) if you are passing through. ;)

I did that -- Except on the other end.,.. basically I did what I had in mind... ** I welded the opposite end (in pictures below) -- because with the Mig welder, I didn't want to get an uneven tip on the threads at the end where the threads 'start'. I had alot more room to work with on the back to plug.. if you know what I mean. The tap, and 1/4" bolt section in the center was most likely unnecesssary, I like that it is connected to the weld, and gives it a little more integrity and , well, is there :) -- Its a truly custom bolt hehe. I pulled my solenoid out, and dissassembled -- Cleaned screen, put back o-rings.. put it back on. (Fluid dropped from it) Then I pulled my ACV valve. I took it and fabricated a leakproof plug out of it :) I used a vice to split the plastic around the back of the bolt. Got that housing off. Was left with all metal, back end looks like a dish/soup bowl. I got a pin and knocked out the center valve from the open bolt. Then I tapped half the bolt from the back end with a 1/4" tap. Sawed about a 1/4" of a 1/4" bolt (no head) -- Cut a notch in it.. and used a flat head to screw it in and flush it with the back. Got out my welder and tapped it 3 times,.. and there is no way is it leaking from the internal. On external, I wrapped it well with teflon, and I seated it in the PS AVC slot. Might not look pretty, but this is the final product: --Back end (weld) --Side view --Front view where it goes into house.. (hollowed out bolt) --Then as I carefully threaded it into the not so convenient slot I thought it turned out well.. zero dollar fix :) Though as I mentioned I pulled the solenoid, that ACV, plugged, -- Capped vaccum lines in two different ways. Then flushed 4 quarts of ATF through the PS system off the return hose. Reconnected everything.. and filled up the reservoir, and started it up. It made a horrible, HORRIBLE clanking/gear grinding kind of noise. At first I was like oh no.. give me a break! What on earth could have happened! But, I Just said to myself.. keep bleeding it, add fluid, bleed and so on. As I turned the wheel and came back to look at the reservoir.. it was foaming like a milkshake, and big bubbles would form and pop -- Rediculous amounts of air. Took quite a while to get it right. It kept on doing this noise for 30mins while bleeding.. wasn't looking good... but I kept on. As I went from lock to lock.. the wheel would actually shake on one side. -- Finally,.. magically.. it just stopped. Like a snap of the finger -- And it was done. Like I got one major air bubble out somewhere. I continued to bleed 100 more times or so (lock to lock). Then lowered it down and turned some more, and topped it off with fluid. It all works like it should. Of course time will tell for good -- but so far it looks great. So if you ever take off every piece of your power steering system basically,.. expect the potential for a TON of air -- I can't believe air was making the pump sound like it was literally about to shatter to pieces! I've never heard of such.. but it settled down to perfect. You ever heard of one acting like that and bleeding getting everything smooth again after 30-45mins?

Also bedding is very important -- I stress proper bedding to prevent rotor warpage. I would say a significant amount of rotor warpage is due to ZERO bedding on a brake job. It is not told to the customer by the brake shop, and the customer probably wouldn't follow it even if told :) -- But for the lucky few who actually know what it is, it helps alot. Here is an example: *Note seems to be for front rotorr/pads only* -- But those are what do 70% of our braking and the rotors that warp 90% of the time. To ensure maximum braking performance and long life, new brake pads must be broken in properly upon installation. The correct process of breaking in the pads guarantees that the new brake pads and rotors work to maximize the braking efficiency. In order to function optimally, Organic, Semi Metallic, and even Ceramic brake pads must develop a friction coal on the pad and rotor surface. The friction coal is created at a temperature of approximately 550°F. It is very important that this temperature is reached in a manner that does not overheat the brakes. The gradual heat process generates the high temperatures that penetrate the surface of the brake rotors and pads. This process is even more important when installing new brake rotors since the rotor often needs to go thru a few heat cycles to properly develop the hardness in the metal casting. A slow and careful heating and cooling process guarantees a good mating of both the pads and rotors. The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows: Make sure you perform this process in a very safea and controlled environment. The following process should be done in a safe place that has no other vehicles or pedestrians. Drive at approx. 35 to 40 mph for about 500 yards for solid rotors and 800 yards for vented rotors while slightly dragging the brakes. Use light braking pressure with the left foot while using the right foot to depress the accelerator to maintain the 35-40 mph speed. This will allow the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 550°F to 600°F. Once you have driven the appropriate distance applying the brakes, then remove the left foot form the brake petal for approximately ¼ mile maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and rotors to evenly cool down. Repeat this step one more time, then perform a normal brake application from 40 mph to complete stop. Do Not make a panic or a sever stop at this time! This break in process is only suitable for the front brakes and not the rear. This is due to the braking distribution of front and rear brakes. Using this process for rear brakes would result in overheating and warping of the front brakes.

Actually it is reverse -- and it is the proper way on every vehicle manufactured (technically) Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) Either way the job will get done. If you bled in any order you wouldn't get much of a different result, if any, if bled properly. (in my experience)

Looks great. When did you have this paint done? Because you should never polish, seal, wax, etc on new paint for at least a month -- and preferably 2-3 months. If you can wait 90 days it is best. When you polish and put other products on it will seal the paint, in one way or another, and cause it not to be able to breath, and the new paint won't be able to out-gas and expand settle like it is designed to do. Which can at worst cause little pores to open up (like little needles poked in your paint,.. or some cracking underneath) -- At best the paint will remain 'soft' because it never got a chance to harden. I have some freshly painted sections on my vehicle, and it takes everything I have not to polish/wax them right now.. Been nearly two weeks, but waiting 45-60 days before I polish them. As every few days I can feel the paint physically getting harder , as it bakes on with time.

Looks great. When did you have this paint done? Because you should never polish, seal, wax, etc on new paint for at least a month -- and preferably 2-3 months. If you can wait 90 days it is best. When you polish and put other products on it will seal the paint, in one way or another, and cause it not to be able to breath, and the new paint won't be able to out-gas and expand settle like it is designed to do. Which can at worst cause little pores to open up (like little needles poked in your paint,.. or some cracking underneath) -- At best the paint will remain 'soft' because it never got a chance to harden. I have some freshly painted sections on my vehicle, and it takes everything I have not to polish/wax them right now.. Been nearly two weeks, but waiting 45-60 days before I polish them. As every few days I can feel the paint physically getting harder , as it bakes on with time.

Anyone? I'm going to be doing this modification of the ACV into a plug in a 2 hours or so.. so any quick replies would be most helpful. Just to give you an idea -- The ACV looks like this,.. So I basically want to remove that plastic/black area.. and make the bolt/nut part of this a plug. (This bolt is hollow inside with the valve stem) -- Ideas would be great, I have a few of my own, but would aprecaite any of yours. I will get it one way or another -- Thanks

I'm just doing it all while I'm at it. Overhauling the system if you catch my drift. It has a new pump and new rack. So I jacked it up -- removed wheels.. Took off solenoid, removed screen.. cleaned it up (was already clean).. Tested the solenoid with 12volts.. it clicks.. so it works. Put solenoid back on. Then got to the ACV from the bottom -- Hardest part was removing the engine shield. Was a pain to get to.. the HP hose it in the way and the sway bar.. but it isn't so bad. I undid both the vacuum lines first. From both ends,.. and took them out of the car -- Won't be using them anymore. I didn't have a 17mm box wrench so I had to go to the store. Whlie I was there I got some caps for the intake,.. and a screw to plug the intake port on the left. (The right one has a metal port/nipple) -- The left one is plastic, and broken off a bit.. So I am using a screw of the right size with some waterpump sealent around it. --(This is a permenant thing for me). Anyhow.. -- The soleniod leaked a good half quart at least of fluid.. I caught that.. and reservoir was empty. So when I undid the ACV I thought it would be empty -- wrong! It started coming out .. ack. a little bit on alternator.. I did the best I could with it.. but made a bit of a mess. Anyhow, I picked up a 14mm x 1.5 bolt like was recommended. The thread pattern is slightly different than our ACV's. It fits, it is 14mm -- but at about 1/4 of the way in, it starts to strip the threads.. I could see metal shavings .. -- I backed it out and tried 15 different ways.. it wasn't going to go with some good force.. so I didn't want to mess the thread pattern up. I took it to the store again, and they saw the difference (I had the ACV off to compare to) -- They said I would need to find a 14mm with the metric type thread pattern.. So basically I've got to find a bolt of the same size threaded slightly different. My other post I made recently: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=49179 Is about taking the ACV I pulled out, and just turning it into a plug. People have done this sucessfully, and it DOES fit,.. ;) - So that makes the most sense. Take off the plastic backing, and filling the center of the bolt with something. If you have ideas or know how best to go about this, let me know. Otherwise I'm just going to do it tommorow, unless I can find the right bolt --(I think I might have a problem with that though). I think some people take the 14Mx1.5 -- (It is an oil pan drain bolt) .. and force it in.. tearing up the ACV threads. It will go in, but removing it even once and it wouldn't go back in.. and if someone wanted to put the ACV back on.. no dice.. new pump needed. -- Also I just wouldn't trust the seal on it cross threading it all the way up with force. I know this bolt I purchased is the same everyone else is getting.. it uses a 5/8ths wrench to tighten it.. is labeled 14Mx1.5" -- Says on the package it is an oil drain plug.. has a rubber gasket with it. I've seen several people use rubber gaskets on their bolts.. Some use crusher washers -- and you say use teflon tape? (PTFE) ? -- I think they all work. In fact, the ACV has no gasket on it.. It just screws in, and doesn't leak. So I think things will be sealed tight. Though with the heat and such, I will use a gasket at least.. I might put on some teflon, I probably will just to be double sure on the leak prospect. -- The Vacuum lines I pulled off, one of them had a bit of PS fluid in it.. So that is a tale tale sign there was a leak from the ACV,.. right? Only air should be coming from those lines, right? Bottom line, what I'm doing is double checking solenoid,.. done -- Works great, and cleaned filter/screen. Checking hosing, check.. done. Draining fluid -- 90% drained just by the procedures I've done Removing ACV, and plugging it -- Removing vaccuum lines, and capping them on intake. (Done) -- Still need to plug. Then once I get the ACV plugged tommorow.. (car is up on jackstands right now, wheels off.. tools by the vehicle ready to go) -- I am going to make sure its all sealed up.. Then remove the return lower hose. Attach my own hose to the return and have it flow into a bucket. Fill the reservoir about halfway -- 3/4ths maybe. Turn on the car. Immediately turn it off. Check the drain.. fill it back up -- Turn on, turn off. Repeat until fluid is nice and clean. Then attached return back to pump. Fill reservoir to cold level.. turn on car, turn off. Check level.. fill if needed. Turn it back on at that point, and turn the wheels once. Get out, check levels.. (Cap off the whole time). If it hasn't gone down, I am then going to turn on car, and move wheels lock to lock about 10 times and keep it running and check fluid. If at that time fluid still isn't moving.. I will proceed to move wheels slowly lock to lock at least 50 times. Put on cap,.. move wheels a few more times.. Check for leaks before lowering.. and lower the car down. ** I don't honestly expect this to solve my problem, but it is something I needed to do any way, due to the ACV leaking slightly -- So why not.. The fluid has a little dark tint to it, so it needs a good flushing. With the solenoid being off, and the acv off.. need to bleed well.. (also PS pump replaced a few days ago) -- Lots of chances for air, which is why the flush should be good for ridding any air bubbles that might be trapped in the system. main thing I need from you guys is the 'how to' on how to transform my ACV into a plug. Again, that makes the most sense because it is a perfect fit, it is a bolt, with a nut. Remove the backing ( plastic) .. and then fill the middle. I was think of tapping the inside of the bolt, and putting a screwn in it.. (No head, flush mount).. leave a touch of room few microns. Then tacking the end flush with my MIG welder to ensure no movement by screw inside. -- Think that will do the job? Also,.. the ACV came out with no gasket or teflon. So I think putting a rubber gasket on it, and wrapping threads in teflon should prevent any possible leaks . That is double precautionary. If anything you read looks wrong, let me know, and if you have a better idea on the ACV turned into a plug , please let me know. If you've turned your ACV into a plug -- Please tell me how you did it.. (just to make things easier). Lastly, if you know the exact terminology for the bolt I need for the plug , let me know. The thread pattern is slightly different, I assure you on the part I got, even though it is the right size. 14Mx1.5 (M for metric I'm sure). Sorry so long, but thanks!

Heya, Well spent the better part of this afternoon working on the PS systems. Removed the Solenoid again, cleaned screen.. Replaced it.. and tested function with 'on' on key. It clicks, so it is opening I suppose. Then I removed the undercarriage engine shield... (Lots of bolts on that thing) Got up into my ACV idle valve on the PS pump. Pulled the two vacuum hoses off it.. and then pulled them out and off the intake up top. I've plugged/capped the intake where they went in.. and I went to Adv. Auto Parts and got what was said to work. A 14 x 1.5 Bolt with washer(gasket type). It was labled as an oil pan bolt. Anyhow, it was the right size, but the thread pattern is slightly different, no visible to the naked eye in general, but when you put it on, it only goes a 1/4 way then it stops. It is eating up the threads if you were to try and force it. (It also uses a 5/8'ths) to maneuver. I didn't trust it. So I went back, of course they had nothing that would fit the 'Metric thread'.. I went to Lowes.. nothing. Home depot, nothing. Hardware stores all closed on me. So My car is jacked up awaiting an answer. Hrmm -- I've heard some people took their Valve and ripped the black part off and somehow sealed the end of that bolt and used it as a cap. I wouldn't mind doing this as it obviously fits. Anyone mind telling me how to go about doing this with the regular ACV valve. I don't want to break it where it can't be used for the purpose, and would like to know what to do to seal it. Because the center is a valve. I have access to a welder and other tools. How is it done to turn this valve into basically a regular bolt to seal the hole? Seems easy enough, just need to know a good procedure for getting it solid. Leaving it as is, and say capping the nipples on the back wouldn't do any good, it would just leak I'm sure, and its under high pressure. Any and all tips/answers, and if anyone has created a plug out of their ACV valve that would extremely helpful. If no one has any idea,.. then where can I find this plug? I need to find it tommorow somewhere. The auto parts stores don't have it. And frankly I don't know what to 'ask' for -- What I have 'looks' like it fits,.. but its a thread pattern thing. I have Adv. auto parts, autozone (same chain I think) -- Westwood (only one store).. and Napa around here. I didn't find one hardware store anywhere close.. they've all closed down. Thanks!

Yes -- the reman'ed PS pump had a new reservoir -- Which I liked of course,.. so it wouldn't have the gunk from the old one. So you think a flush will cure this? Hrmm.. I might go take off that solenoid and check the screen again -- I have plenty of ATF fluid for it. Thing is, on another forum everyone is saying it is 99% the new PS pump that is bad. I just don't know -- yeesh. The mechanic is willing to to figure it out, so that is good.. But I'd like to figure it out on my own of course. I'll do what I can.. I guess pull the solenoid off and clean that screen again. It was clean last time. Most all of the fluid drains out when I do this anyhow -- But I have 6-7 quarts of fluid, so plenty to flush it with.. Maybe with the flush I can eliminate any air in the system.. then while it is jacked,.. do the lock to lock slowly about 50 times with cap off. after all of that, isn't much more I can do. I"d like to plug the ACV, but I don't know exactly what to do here.. wish I had a picture/guide write up on how to do it. What part to buy, and what/how to loop things proper. I see the lines, just don't know what to do to plug. (The ACV might not even be bad, but it doesn't hurt things to plug it I know).

great reply's! No, no nipple on the Lexus :) I hope , wish it is just 'air' -- That is hard for me to believe,.. Just air in the system is going to cause it to act like it has no power steering assist at idle/not moving ,.. but if I rev it up a little it works fine? Really? I'll jack it up and turn it a million times. How do I know I've gotten the air out? :) Anyhow.. a mechanic put it on.. I get all kinds of replys.. at other lexus forums, people all say its a bad pump .. replace it again. I say BS,.. if it was a bad pump it wouldn't work at all. It is something else. If it isn't air, it is either the Air control valve, or the Solenoid acting up. But, air in the system will make this identical problem? I would figure it would be randomly going in and out while driving down the road with air in the system.. (it doesn't). Bleh.. anyhow.. I'll jack it up and turn the wheel a bunch. If any of you can explain how the Air control valve works on the LS 400 -- and also the Solenoid I'd be very grateful. I'd like to know how they engage, why they engage, and disengage, and what purpose they serve. So I know what to look for and what problems each device would cause if going bad. Thanks,

Hey guys, I have a 1994 LS 400. I have replaced the Power steering pump, Rack and Pinion, Fluid, Cleaned the Solenoid Filter, and hoses. The steering works flawlessly at speed.. but at a dead stop, at idle (600Rpms) it just doesn't. It is like it has zero power steering aid. Very hard to turn the wheels. If I put it in neutral and rev it slightly the steering comes back. There are zero leaks. The power steering pump was just done today, as I thought that was the last thing it 'could' be. But no dice. What is next here? Thanks,