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shanra

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shanra last won the day on February 20

shanra had the most liked content!

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About shanra

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    Member

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  • First Name
    John

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS 400
  • Year of Lexus
    1997
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire

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1,285 profile views
  1. I bought Lexus Colin and pads and they are very good worth making sure the calipers are working well. I bought rears also and got a 20% discount as I told them I could buy Brembo's for a similar price.
  2. Transmission doesn't have an oil cap it's filled through the dipstick tube. The fluid is Toyota ATF Type T-IV and that's the best/safest to use.
  3. Malcom I have never used them but they have a lot of information on their site and would seem to know what they are up to. http://www.ac4cars.co.uk/
  4. Yes but it's standard to replace the dryer when you do the condensor.
  5. Who replaced the condenser because they should have replaced the receiver/dryer at the same time? I recently had a leak from the top of my dryer after replacing the condenser because the a/c guy had not used new bolts on the dryer he had to come back and do it for free with a regas. The bolts invariably are very difficult to undo.
  6. http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/5-signs-you-have-a-faulty-transmission-filter I'd read this and then say it doesn't need replacing, it filters contaminants and cannot clean itself so why would you not replace any filter? The filter is cleaning what's in the gearbox as it wears so it will get dirty it cannot do anything else. I don't understand what seals the new fluid is going to effect? I'd take a look on the Soarer World forum and see what they say about transmission fluid changes and filter replacement.
  7. Getting a genuine oil filter is really worth it as I remember seeing the Toyota V8 filter being taken apart and compared to others and it was top quality with lots of wadding in there, some of the other supposed top brands were really poorly put together. Those Lexus alloys are awful and the pitting will still be there after coating unless they fill the pits but apparently that will lift earlier. As mentioned a good look at the brakes and how much of the disc are the pads connecting with and do they have all the shims in place? The aerial may not be connected, you should be able to pick one up from a breakers I picked mine up for just over 30 pounds but I recently saw one for under twenty pounds!
  8. I really think they are living in the past when we had so called sealed for life boxes a lot of the manufacturers are back pedalling on that one now. I know it's a Mercedes video but I think it's relevant!
  9. Drain and refill 2 litres, but I've copied that from on the forum so I'd check that just in case. Looking around that does seem to be what people get out.
  10. Another update on this I thought I had better have a close look at the other side and there was some rust in the same place I had it welded and then found water pooling near the drain pipe that comes down from the fuel filler, after pouring some water in through the top of the fuel filler water drain I could see it was blocked as the water sat there too long so I got some strimmer wire and gently pushed that through the downpipe and that cleared it.I then wiped all the water up in the boot before testing with a few more cups of water through the pipe which also helped to flush it I pulled the pipe from the bottom and ran it into a clear container so I could see when all the dirt had run through and then reattached the pipe to it's grommet. I cleaned around the fuel filler and it was dirty, again carefully so as not to damage any of the rubber surrounding it. There was also a kink in the pipe which probably caused the blockage in the first place I then straightened that to the best of my ability! A lot of trim in the boot had to come off to access the pipe and it will stay off for a while as I'm still going to monitor it just to be on the safe side. If those pipes had been maintained it may well have not happened, just cleaning around the filler and a run through with some strimmer wire could well stop this happening to someone else. One other thing I might add is it's worth cleaning out the channels in your wheel arches not many people do and the mud and crud just build up and hold the damp in there and that can eventually start rusting especially if there's even the smallest break in your underseal. I cleaned out years of the stuff when I first got the car and it took me a quite a while to do them properly again I think gently with any metal instruments as you don't want to make a break in that underseal because that is the problem with it, once the water gets in it will lift great chunks of it if you're not careful. Time for a cuppa and a round of golf!
  11. Matt I'd start off with the leather by giving it a good condition and clean with Leatherique conditioner and Prestine clean made by the same company and you really need the both together. You'll be amazed how much dirt these products will lift and how much softer your leather is after a few coatings, you need to set aside a fair bit of time to let the conditioner do it's work but once you've finished you'll have a much better idea of the real condition of the leather. It can't fix cracks etc but it will bring back some softness and it will clean deep down. I'm currently doing my front seats (I coated the rears as they are in very good condition) and am waiting for some more to be delivered but the difference already is quite impressive.
  12. The strainer is metal. If you're taking off the pan I'd be meticuosly clean with all parts the bottom of the pan will quite likely have some gunge in it and that needs cleaning off also. There are a few good guides about and a good one on Soarer World where you'll find lots of good information as the Soarer V8 shared a lot of parts with the LS 400 in particular the engine and gearbox.
  13. I'd replace it myself how well can you clean it? I don't know. If worried about price try Amayama or for a pattern part Rockauto in USA.
  14. You know those horrible scuff marks on the plastic at the bottom of your seats, use one of these sponges with some degreaser/multi purpose cleaner and you'll get rid of most if not all of them. Don't overdo it with these as they can strip your trim back too far start out gently wipe off with a clean wrung out microfibre towel and some warm water. I also went gently round all my interior trim with one of these wiping off as I went. I was amazed how much dirt came out especially as I'd cleaned it all two days previously, or so I thought I had, it is now cleaner than I could ever have imagined! Lightly does it though as you don't want to damage anything. I'll now apply Gtechniq C5 to protect it I use an awful lot of their products as I find them excellent the best for me is C2 Liquid Crystal, you put it on ideally after polishing and it gives an incredible wet look and dispenses with the need for any wax and is easy to apply and lasts. Whilst I'm at it if your leather seats are looking dirty and tired try Leatherique rejuvenator and their Prestine clean. You will probably need to apply the rejuvenator a few times and it needs leaving on for 24 hours ideally but you'll be amazed at how it cleans and softens leather. If you've had a cheap spray job done on your seats in the past this may lift it exposing how poorly it was done. It's not an oil is mild and feeds the leather. How can it feed leather seats that are coated as they all are? Well the coating breaks down over time and thats how it gets in and also through the stitching. It really is a minefield in the leather products field but from what I've learnt don't use anything oil based what you need is once cleaned/conditioned is a protectant as that's what the coating is is put on the leather for protection, even the old leathers had varnish on them to protect them and when you conditioned them you were actually trying to hold the varnish together. I have no links to any of these products it's just my experiences with them.
  15. Take a look at the colour first that will tell you more than any service history. I think the 36,000 miles change was a drain and refill which is only about 2 litres of fluid a flush would take anything from 10 litres and above and you'd be as well to drop the pan and change the filter/strainer if going for the flush. I'll be doing a flush/filter soon on mine as it has 198,000 miles on the clock and Lexus serviced it up to 170,000 miles so supposing they did the changes as in the book and looking at the colour (light brown) it needs changing. The reason I'll do a flush is because there's fluid in there that is really quite old and it has to be better with completely new fluid in it. The filter/strainer is there to do exactly what it's name implies and if you think that they don't need changing at some time go ahead and leave it and next time you do an oil change just put oil in there and change the filter when you feel like it! There are also some magnets in the bottom of the pan to catch any miniscule pieces of metal as the gearbox wears. When checking the level of the transmission dont use any lint like cloth as just a wee thread going back in could mess up your gearbox. Sealant for Gearbox is now Loctite Si5660 "the only difference you will notice is the product is slower to fully cure I would suggest to leave the assembled part overnight before filling with oil and running it" the manufacturer stating the difference between the new sealant and old.