fil4362

With out even looking at the link you have answered my post as i imagined. The app needs blue tooth equipment to be plugged into the car. so you need a phone and app and a device to plug into the car. You can buy code readers for a tenner a quick look on fleebay reveals http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U480-OBD-OBD2-DTC-Any-Car-Diagnostic-Fault-Code-Reader-Scan-Scanner-Engine-Reset-/310704476001?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item48576e0f61#ht_2490wt_1041 I have one simular to this that i use all the time If a car comes in with an obvious fault i fix the fault and turn the light of using the cheap argos kit as the car doesnt need a full scan and read if its a simple obvious misfire. I also use it on my Range Rover which has a gas conversion and developes lamda faults every few weeks running on gas. So i just lean over plug in turn of and away i go again. edit+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ just looked at your link it appears to do the basics but looking at the reviews it gets very mixed ratings. from doesnt work to very slow and glitches to doesnt work on android phone. When fault finding you need an osiloscope as many times this is the only device that registers fast enough to see things like lambda sensors switching. Be very aware of any code reader as its only as good as its program i recomend any item is bench tested before changing. I also had a quick look for the odb bluetooth kit required the one i saw was $70.

A clutch wont burn out a dmf any more than it will burn out a ss (solid state/one piece/standard) flywheel. The only way i have ever seen a flywheel burn out is due to continued driving whilst the clutch is slipping/worn out or driving like an idiot slipping the clutch therefore causing heat the flywheel wasnt designed for. I Know luc now do a ss flywheel to replace most dmf as they appear to have been failing at high miles. Although i wouldnt recomend fitting one. I have fitted a few on transits with no ill effects up to now they are certainly cheaper and the ford dmf seems to be failing at 60k miles. I have heard horror stories within the trade of the vag group dmf failing on high mileage skodas. Usually taxis, when a dfm is replaced with a ss on these they appear to mess with the varmonics of the engine and snap the crank shafts. this information was given to me by luc themselves at a recent seminar on the dsg gearbox and how to fit/change/and service the clutches on these. Ok back to the lexus as i mentioned on my previous post my lexus doesnt have a dmf, i believe some were fitted with them but i have no reason why one would be needed on a car with so little torque the clutch is perfectly capable of taking up the torque. Mine has doen 175.000 with out a dmf and managed just fine.

Mine doesnt have a dmf. Changed my clutch last year and it deffinatly doesnt have one. If you understand what a dmf is for you will understand that the is200 doesnt exactly need one. A standard clutch is perfectly capable. I belive some where fitted with a dmf though so if you send me your reg number i will check with my suppliers thursday morning. As a mechanic of over 24 years be aware of the above comment of no warrenty if not bought with a dmf. If i had to buy a dmf with every clutch i would find a new supplier. Its not the parts factor that cover the warrenty anyway and i know luc and blue print ,the 2 biggest suppliers of jap parts dont have this no warrenty nonsence. I have, when needed, claimed for faulty parts and labour.

There isnt a phone app to fault code read cars. You need equipment to plug into the car. Either way dont guess what the fault is. At last look theres over 2000 fault codes that can make the light come on. Was the car ok before service ? if so go back and check everything you have done its clearly that. If it was ok before the service my guess would be wrong plugs but dont take my guess as fact

I have hids with dc ballasts. Been on about 2 years other than the first set i had where a ballast died after 2 months i have never had a problem with them. Always have the lights on auto setting as well. Never blown a bulb or anything. Put a sett on my wifes car as well (imported toyota fieldtourer) never had a problem with hers eiither. One bulb has blown cuurrently but never a problem with them. both set where cheap ones from japan as well.

My header tank is always low doesnt leak, the rad never gets low. Your sensor could have been pickign up a bad burn from the car being stood for a few months fuel goes off with time being the post cat one could have been pickign up small faults with the cat. if its of then dont worry about it.

po300 is random miss fire 301 is cylinder one misfire 302 is cylinder 2 misfire and so on so it would seem you have a misfiire on cylinder 2 and cylinder 5. if you have changed to plugs the correct ones not cheap ones then i suggest a you have 2 faulty coils. number 2 and number 5 . easy to check change number 2 coil for number 1 and change number 5 coil for number 4. road test again if the light comes back on and fault codes change to 301 and 304 then its 2 faulty coils. simple as that.

i dont want the full body kit just the front bumper. I have never liked any side skirt for the is it just doesnt look right to me. I have however aquired a 997 front bumper and a spare is bumper now to find a body shop brave enough to tackle the job. Thanks for the pic

Does anyone still have a picture of the 200 with the 997 front bumper it was a white car. I think there was a possibility of a group buy but stumbled over having to buy a full kit.

He hasnt got a traders policy he hasnt even got a policy on his own car let alone one to drive everyone else car. His car his daily driver isnt even taxed it ran out in May. Even if he did it still doesnt allow him to drive a motorbility car for his own use it certainly doesnt make him legal to drive whilst drunk.

The engine management light is not in the mot i am an mot tester ITS NOT IN THE TEST. plain and simple. To issue a fail certificate you have to select a reason to fail of a list. There isnt a box to tick to fail engine management lights. There is no generic "warning light fault" tick box either. You cannot actually or physically fail an mot test for an eml.. Your also incorrect about other warning lights, theres nothing in an mot test about airbag/srs warning lights coming on and going off either. The fail criteria is if "the light indicates a fault" it fails. Theres nothing that says it has to come on in the first place. You cannot fail on on airbag/srs for not coming on. The fail criteria clearly says "light indicates a fault" if the lights not on theres no reason to fail. its also not up to the tester to decide what is and what isnt the test, what passes and fails. As a tester its your job to check that the vehicle meets the criteria set out in the guide nothing more. As i have mentioned before i dont agree with things that are in the test and not in the test but its not up to me to change the rules to suit my own personal thoughts. once again engine management lights are not int he mot test.

My story of getting out of the way of sirens was made public a few years ago so i have had dealings with police mis use of power if thats what it is. I roll 3 feet through a red light making room for the blues and twos and got a ticket for doing so. I was informed "police are highly trained to get round me and i dont have to move" I went to the press and the ticket was thrown away in the end. The copper i moved for was in a rush to the local station as there was a problem with a prisoner. My local station is part time and doesnt have cells but he was going there i saw him going in after i followed him being nosey after the lights changed. Amy way thanks for the links and the pm,s on this topic folks will take action on it.

Its not open to interpritation at all my friend. Please feel free to send me details of anyone or garage that has had a car fail on an engine management light. The rules are very very simple. The engine management light is not in the test. Its not even mentioned. Theres alot of the mot test i dont agree with, things that should be in the test things that shouldnt be but bottom line is rules is rules. Tyres pressure warning lights are in the mot test, but with out a quick look on exact date, only on cars registered after 2012 cant remember the exact date in 2012.

So sorry still no mot light in the test this is copied from your link ............The MOT test now includes a ‘Malfunction Indicator Lamp’ check. This requires the examiner to visually check that warning lights for electronic stability control, safety restraint systems, anti-lock braking systems and tyre pressure monitoring systems are not permanently illuminated. and this is a link to the most upto date testers manuel i can find http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm still nothingn on engine management lights. theres certainly no reason to fail for an eml being on. lill0021 is my mot id number i have been testing 20 years and unless an update came out after 12;30 today the eml light isnt in the test.

Firstly the eml light isnt part of the mot test never has been so ignore that comment. Secondly do no guess as to what is wrong with your car even having the fault code will only give you a rough idea of what the cause of the light coming on. i can saftely say that if you were told its a cat fault the lambda/oxygen sensor, post cat, has detected a fault. theres 3 lambda/oxygen sensor and 3 cats. So which do you change the fault code could would give you a better idea. There could very easily be a small hole in your exhaust after the first sensor, the second sensor could easily pick up unburnt air from this leak and decide it must be a cat fault as the unburnt air shouldnt be there and therefore there must be a burn fault or a cat fault when infact neither would be the problem. Get it checked properly guessing is pot luck even the autodata (at over £800 a year) gives 3 or 4 reasons for every fault code.