trousers1000

no. that sounds like a tracking issue though

slack - yeah, i have had same issue pretty much since i bought it all those years ago. The wear is always on the outside edge of the nearside front tyre. i had tracking laser checked, balancing,air pressure, etc....could never get to the bottom of it. it's not even as though the journey home takes me on a sweeping right bend which would at least help to provide an answer.

Hi Slack tried it in other positions. the car adjusts on the passenger side, but won't on the drivers side - stuck in high. where does it actually vent from? it obviously has to vent from somewhere in order to lower and presumably there is a vent for each strutt/side? i wonder if the vent(s) for the drivers side are not working. Also, because the drivers side is currently stuck in high position, at the moment i don't know whether the drivers side is completely dead or would inflate/readjust if it was at a lower height. No fault codes showing when the diagnostics machine thingy is plugged in. hence I would like to drain the drivers side and see if it either 1) stays at the height it is drained to - i would expect this to happen if the entire drivers side is simply non functional at the moment., 2) upon ignition and height selection, then repumps the drivers side back to whatever height is selected be it Norm or High. unless there is good reason not to do so, for me the next step would be to deflate the drivers side to say "about normal" height and then see if it allows me to select High and see what it does. If i can see what does/does not function from there......so really am after some learned advice on how to drain the system of air safely.

i have determined that it is definately only the drivers side that the issue is with. i read on the forum that if the computer detects something is not right, then it disables the compressor and then only re-enables it after every three car journeys - ie 3 x cycles of turn ignition on, drive car and then turn ignition off. This concurs with what is happening....so lastnight go on three journeys and then park up outside my house with engine running. I select the HIGH position and guess what.....the nearside rises so it matches the height of te "stuck on high" drivers side. I get out and albeit the car is high, it is all level. I turn engine off and leave it overnight. This morning it is all still high and level - this tells me that there is no leaks. agree? I then drive off this morning and as soon as i get over circa 10mph the nearside automatically lowers to Normal height (as one would expect), but the drivers side remains in High position. So no fix as yet, but i know i have no leaks, and i know the nearside is fine. I also know the compressor is fine too. So....what i am thinking is how do i drain the air out of the drivers side safely. I really could do with some detailed instructions on how to do this. I can then start her up and see if she then rises to Normal or not. Is there a paricular connection somewhere that if i slacken it off, it will allow air to drain out?

Idling has now normalised......and so has my blood pressure io think. Lol thanks for input guys. i'm not wanting to bodge it in an unsafe manner or anything like that. My logic is simply to in effect manually adjust the suspension to level as it is not doing it automatically.

Thanks Slack. is there a safe method for me to simply lower the side which is currently high?

Slack - honest.....will they....I'm seriously in a low place right now......spanner in hand ready to launch at this motor and bog off to my locall had this motor for years and loved it...now it's like a wife i want to divorce

Mhmm.... i now have a car that not only has the air suspension problem....but since disconnecting the battery the engine idling is now a bag of spanners!!

Currently sitting on drive with battery disconnected......watch this space as to the outcome. i must admit, it is a coincidence that all this suspension hassle started straight after it had been on the ramps for the power steering pipe replacement. left me thinking either something was disturbed or some other trigger (as suggested by you Slack). i had a look at it underneath and it looks like there are height sensors in all four corners. Must admit i thought there would have just been a left and right. Doh! The garage had the computer connected and there are no error logs at all. the compressor does kick in and i can increase the height of the near side. This makes me think the compressor is fine. the over riding factors are: 1. The drivers side will not adjust at all. 2. The driver side is stuck in the High position. report back shortly after a tea break/15 minutes of not battery connections

Slack - yes. Before the suspension started playing up, it had been up on ramps having a power steering pipe replaced. It was one of those ramps which lift from the chassis so in effect the wheels are left free dangling. Hope that makes sense. What problems can this cause?

Hi guys no I haven't disconnected the battery. If i do so will it affect anything else? does it really reset by doing this?

Hi guys sesriously need some help. i've a RX300 SEL which I've had for 7 years. Low is hard mileage and been a great reliable motor. recently the air suspension just started playing up. i will try to explain. The drivers side of car is in the highest position on both front and rear. Even if i use the height selector the drivers side won't move. The front near side seems low...but im not sure if this is symptomatic of the high drivers side. If i select High on the switch i can hear the compressor pump kicking in....but the near side only sometimes will go to high position. when i select the high position or even Low position, the LED sometimes flashes and sometimes not. sometimes it will only allow me to select Normal and High (ie not the Low position). The local garage has connected the computer thingy to it and there are no error logs at all. I'm not bothered about having the functionality of the height adjustment, so i would be happy to settle for simply being able to get the drivers side lowered to Normal height. we have had the car on the ramps in the garage and the cant see any visible damage or anything like that. it's not of a value that is worth justifiying putting the car into the dealership. Would just like to get it drivable again. i hope i have explained everything so it makes sense. please help chaps.

Hi. I've not got the manual so don't know.

Hi i have a 2004 RX300 SEL ( same model as the RX330). The rear tailgate will not open. it was previously working fine. I have checked the button behind the glovebox and this is set correctly. i will not open using the the remote fob. Usually you hear audible beeps using the remote fob. No sound at all and no attempted movement to open. I have tried the remote release button on the dashboard. Nothing. i have tried to open manually using the open switch on the tailgate by the number plate. This doesn't work and you hear nothing. i have also checked the 30A fuse for the tailgate and this is fine. I have climbed into the boots pace from within the car to check if there is anything visible trapped in tweet the tailgate and the body of the car where it closes. All looks clear. i have also tried adding weight to push down on the rear tailgate whilst simultaneously pressing the tailgate manual release button, but still to no avail. aagghhhh! Help how do I physically manually get the tailgate open so I can then investigate further as I see not mechanical means of operation

hi i have a 2004 RX300 SE-L in the UK. the sat nav is working perfectly including the audio. the functionality of the stereo system (cd, radio, cassette) is fine....but the problem is that there is no actual sound coming out of the speakers. the SE-L is fitted with the Mark Levinson sound system inc amplifier. i've gone into the diagnostic menu on the touch screen and i see that "DSP-AMP" has the error message "NCON". This is short for "no connection". ive had the leads from the head unit checked at their input end to the amp and they appear fine. the local Lexus Dealership are going to take a look at it later this week. According to them (and many posts on various websites) it is likely that the fault lies with the amplifier. Lexus dealership reckon the car actually has 2 x amplifiers. Personally i am not qualified to comment on this, but thought it was odd as there is no mention on any forums of them having 2 x rather than 1 x amplifiers. Has anybody else heard that they can have 2 x amps? i have also spoken with a local hifi repair engineer. he said he will take a look at the amp for me should i want him to (prob will as Lexus says a new amp will set me back around £900!). the stereo repair man has not worked on a Mark Levinson amplifier before. Does anybody know where i can locate a schematic drawing for the Mark Levinson amplifier? The repair guy also reckons that as the car has 11 speakers, it is strange that all 11 outputs have failed at once, and that if this is a common problem (and according to various posts it would appear this it is not an uncommon problem), he suggested posting to see if i can find out what is the actual fault in the ML amp that causes it to fail. if we can find this out, there is a chance of repairing the amp rather than having to consider a replacement at circa £900! Does anybody know what the common fault is that causes the Mark Levinson amp to fail? Does anybody know anyone who is reliable and repairs these amplifiers? i have considered that if the cost of ML replacement is too high, whether or not i could replace it with an aftermarket amp...problem is...the wiring if the car is specific to the head unit and the amp and speakers.... meaning to consider swapping out with an alternative model of amplifier is no simple task. Has anybody else done this or knows somebody who is capable of doind so with a quality job? Lastly.....does anybody know where i can buy a used or reconditioned Mark Levinson Amplifier? i've already tried ebay and the local scrap yards. thanks in advance for your replies.