AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About Monocle

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Lexus Model
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location

Recent Profile Visitors

4,132 profile views
  1. This is great advice!!! Saves lots of time.
  2. Totally agree with Shahpor. I think it is definitely worth separating the solenoid end from port end when the EGR is removed. You can get a much better clean around the valve plates and seats which means you'll get a better seal. It is pretty easy to do. The two parts separate very easily. Also, I wondered about the state of the inlet manifold. So I took it apart. Big job. Lots of carbon removed. I put a guide together so you can see photos there. There was a slight improvement in mpg but the biggest gain was in acceleration from low revs.
  3. Is220d Sep 2007. Had since Mar 2010 at 30k miles. Come a long way since! The tank average below is not normal - usually around 35mpg max of late.
  4. Looks fantastic Normski, well done! Great colour too. I did mine last Summer using VHT spray paint. The cleaning was the most important and difficult part I found. It's now nearly a year and I inspected them yesterday. Three of them are still in perfect condition but for some reason one is really corroded. No idea why. Will be redoing it again in a couple of weeks. I think the Hammerite option might be a better bet. You can really slap it on thick unlike the spray which tends to run.
  5. Thanks Lee and Chris. Well I think it is safe to say that I got very lucky! My god that is horrendous and scary!
  6. Job time – 1 hour 10 mins Disassembly (40 mins) - may take longer if in a bad way Cleaning (20 mins) Reassembly (10 mins) Tools required: Socket set 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 14mm spanner. Also need flat head screw driver for scraping and some WD40. Lots of rags/tissue paper. Wire coat hanger or similar strength wire and cutters. Vacuum cleaner. Parts: Copper washer (injector seal) and O-Ring (half way down the injector). Part numbers: 11176-51010 and 96721-19017 respectively. This is for a 2007 IS220D. I reckon I saved about €400 (£340) by doing this myself (from the prices I have seen on this forum). Method:- Remove wire harness clips (2) on wire harness that runs over the injectors. Both broke on me as they were fragile from heat over the years. Didn't bother replacing Remove wire harness nuts (2) 10mm socket Disconnect all four injectors' electrical connections (don't worry about mixing them up, they can only reach their own injector) Lift wire harness up a little and move to the left out of the way Disconnect Fuel Leakage Manifold Pipe. See red arrow above. This is a flexible hose that is clamped onto a solid inner pipe (I have a feeling this may not be necessary - I'll check and edit) Remove bolt (1) 10mm securing one of the fuel lines. See yellow arrow above Remove back bolt (1) 14mm on back on the Fuel Leakage Manifold. See blue arrow above. This is tricky to access - I used a ring spanner and could only get about 1/12 of a turn each time. Watch out for the double washer - it can easily fall down into the engine bay Remove the securing bolt (1) 12mm on the Fuel Leakage Manifold. See green arrow above Remove bolts (4) 14mm holding the Fuel Leakage Return Pipe above all of the injectors. These bolts secure the pipe to each of the injectors (there is a hex head in each) Lift off the Fuel Leakage Return Pipe Protect each of the fuel points with tissue paper Remove bolt (1) 12mm on large clamp holding the injector in place Remove clamp - once this is removed nothing else is holding the injector in place Remove injector. It will not lift out easily so use some leverage. I used a screw driver and worked my way around it. I also used a small bit of WD40. It took a few minutes but persist. It may work trying to twist it before extracting to loosen it Remove copper washer down in the injector port. It is about 130mm down and sits on its own shoulder. If it is in one piece (which it should be) it cannot fall down in to the chamber below. I used a wire coat hanger for the wire to pull out the washer. I bent a short 90 degree bend at the bottom and cut it at an angle to leave a sharp point. See top "tool" in the photo below. This allows you to get in between the washer and the shoulder it sits on. Keep at it until it loosens. A small bit of WD40 helps Clean injector (and remove the old o-ring), clean injector seat, clean injector port (as far in as possible). I used a flat head screwdriver to scrape away the black stuff. It flakes off. I used the second tool in the picture below with some tissue wrapped around the bottom, and stuffed it down into the injector port. This allowed me to scrape away any of the dirt and let it fall into the port. When I was done, I taped a short piece of garden hose onto the end of the hoover and sucked out the gunk that had fallen in. I pulled out the tool and it cleaned the inside of the port as it was withdrawn Add new o-ring and copper washer. I applied some grease just to hold the copper washer in place as I inserted the injector back into the port. Repeat the reverse process from "remove clamp" back up to securing the wire harness Prime the fuel system Other Photos: New and old washers and o-rings. New on left! Injector cleaned and washer and o-ring attached. Cleaned injector seat and port. Damage to Washer: Dirty Injector:-
  7. Job done - will do How To Guide soon. Honestly, a very easy job. However, I think the fact that I caught it early meant the washer was reasonably free and the injector itself didn't need too much effort to pull out - so I got lucky. If left for longer, that black gunk would probably build up more and more and make it difficult to get both out. The parts were €7 for the copper washer (not copper anymore!) and the o-ring (which isn't a perfect fit unfortunately - it is the right diameter but the thickness isn't the same as previous). Total job time is about 1 hour (minus trip to collect parts!). Also, on doing some reading on this forum about getting the washer out, there are concerns about the washer falling into the cylinder chamber below. I'm not sure how this is possible unless the washer had split. But if it is in one piece, it cannot physically fit down into the cylinder. So, I think the risk is very low. Highly recommend doing this job from a satisfaction and financial perspective. I was tempted to do all four at once but I have read that they should be left well alone until a problem occurs. Not sure I understand why fully - I know the injectors are sensitive pieces of kit but as long as you are careful, it shouldn't be a problem. I'd welcome some opinions on this. How to Guide:
  8. I just took out the injector there. It was a straight forward job. Took about 45 minutes total - 15 of which were spent trying to get the copper washer (seal) out. You can see the damage to the copper washer below (two notches) and the o-ring half way up the injector. Also included is a pic of the injector itself. It was a bit stuck due to the build up. Parts are arriving on Monday so will fit and do full DIY Guide then.
  9. Thanks madasahater. I can't see the how to guide but I have ordered the seals (arrive Monday) and I'm going to give it a go myself. I think I have caught it very early so I am hoping the copper seal isn't too stuck! I have seen some failures and the build up is significant - I only see a small amount on mine. If you can find that how to guide, please let me know. Otherwise I will do one up if I'm successful!
  10. I was nearly home after a three hour driver this morning and noticed a strong smell (like burning rubber) in the car (IS220D). When I pulled into the driveway I took a look at the engine with it running. There was a blowing sound which I quickly saw was coming from one the injectors. It also looks like some sort of rubber or plastic been spit out with the blow. It looks like oil spray but it is hard. See pics below. There was no smoke and the smell was not diesel or oil. The blue arrow just indicates the direction of the blow out. It is coming from the back (not visible side of the port). The schematic of the engine block refers to this part of the injector as the nozzle leakage assembly. I have no idea what this is. I have a feeling that a rubber gasket has failed and is being melted away by the heat and pressure. The red circle is where the problem is and the blue is my best guess of what has failed. My question is, has anyone encountered this problem? Also, I want to pull it apart to see exactly what went wrong, but I don't like pulling out injectors. Thanks
  11. Love the car. Wheels look great. Wish mine looked that shiny! Especially love the calipers. I did a similar (DIY) job last year and wasn't sure about the colour - glad someone else has the same taste
  12. I've used two different Dealerships over the years. As you can imagine, the sales over here when compared to the UK are much lower so Dealerships tend to carry two or more makes. The two Dealership's I used were both a Toyota/Lexus hybrid (no pun!). So it carried Lexus and Toyotas in the same showroom and the same out the back in service. That is no joke about the Civic - I was convinced I wouldn't even make it back to collect my car!
  13. Just a quick vent - this is the difference between Irish and UK service. I'd say I have had about 10 services with Lexus over the last seven years. I have needed a replacement car on most occasions. I was charged at least twice for a POS (Yaris mainly). Other times it was free but the car was a >10 year old Yaris/Civic/similar. I never once had a brand new car. I was never once offered a new car. And I did ask on several occasions and was told that it was not their policy. Maybe it's the way I look I'm seriously jealous of the service you UK guys receive!!!
  14. I think it might be worth your while searching for posts on cleaning the EGR valve yourself. Clean it every 5,000 miles. Also, read up on the regen of the DPF issue. Lots of conflicting comments but for the sake of a few motorway miles at high revs every couple of weeks, it won't do you any harm. Finally, and there is a current thread on this, grease the caliper pins. Apart from that, from my experience, the rest is minor. Enjoy the car - I've had mine seven years and still love getting into it!