pops

Thanks to people who responded. The carrier has found the part. It only took them 8 days to deliver it from Manchester! *****!

I need a power steering hose for a '94 LS400 in a hurry. The carrier lost the one I ordered. If anybody knows where I could locate one at reasonable cost, I'd be grateful. Thanks.

£20, Dave???? - now you're talking my language - will this completely sort the problem? Thanks to everybody else who replied, too. Personally, I'm no mechanic, in fact I have trouble opening a can much of the time. So I'm going to hand all the info you've given me over to my local garage. Don't go away though. I'll probably be back!!

Thanks for everbody's help. I'll start following all the leads you've provided. The major exhaust leak is the main problem. I had an older model checkup recently at Lexus and there does not appear to be a lifetime guarantee on exhausts. Does anybody have any idea if there is an affordable and not too difficult solution to this problem? I would consider replacing the car for a later model LS 400. On the other hand, I'm reluctant to dump it if it's fixable - and realistically, what am I likely to get for it in its present condition?

I knew that Lexus designed the exhaust to last the lifetime of the car, but I'd be very surprised if they offered a special warranty on exhaust systems outside the normal 3 year warranty given with new cars..I never heard of anything like that during 6 years of LS ownership..

My thanks to everybody here who's helped me before. Now, I'm back again. My treasured '94 LS400 has just failed it's MOT with the following faults. Exhaust system has major leak - cm content at idle [ 7.3.2c]. Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast dle [7. 3. 2b] Also: Rear both sides - trailing arms have excessive play in pin/bush, Plus: one wheel bearing, one lower front suspension ball joint needed Sounds too expensive to me. Any advice other than "push it over the nearest cliff" would be gratefully received. Seriously, I love this car. Is there any way I can rescue it without going into bankrupcy?

I have found somebody who will rebuild alternator. I now need to get work done on power steering unit. Can my local garage be trusted to do this work or do I need a specialist? If so, any recommendations? I'm based in the Midlands.

Thanks again. Will do as you say and post results . Pops

Where can I buy a cheap alternator or get damaged one repaired? Has to be cheap as other problems also urgent if I am to keep my '94 baby on the road.

Thanks for this. However, I've now discovered that the situation is more serious. The power steering unit has leaked into the alternator damaging it. I will need to research lowest cost of replacing both. I believe there is a thread on here about this problem. Thanks again to all who contributed. Pops.

Thanks - I will try this - Pops ← If your battery is more than 3 years old, is most likely week or bad, it is recommended to avoid problems such as the aforementioned, is to replace the battery every 36 months. When you do the above the alternator/charging system should be tested to make sure no other components went in your foray. What is most likely happening, seems that most likely your battery ventured in what I would call, "the gray area." The battery is not really totally bad, nor totally good! Your battery is not keeping enough charge during mortor/charging/operation, then in the morning it recuperates, as part of its reserve and starts the car. They can even be full of battery water. Sometimes when batteries are in this threshold, they even test good in meters, with the results you have. If you have another car, that you know the battery is great exchange it and run the experiment, you probably will see no problem starting and running. If you keep running your car as you are doing you will kill the alternator also, since the battery does not keep enough charge at times. it will make the alternator work harder in fact killing it softly. The click is characteristic of low charge, or in some instances the battery connections bad, and also the starter. I would go first testing the battery with a known good one, cleaning the contacts, and last testing the whole charging starting system. If all of this fails then you have some other bad corroded cable, or bad ground, but this is very remote possibility. Go for the obvious the battery and cleaning its terminals, making sure they are tight and free of corrosion. C. PR ← ← Battery has been checked again with engine running and returns 11.5 to 12 volts. Consensus of opinion at garages is that the alternator is at fault - that even with a faulty battery, it should reach 14 volts. BUT I'm inclined to agree with contributors here that I should try all the simpler options first. I haven't got another battery. If I buy and fit a new one, it seems to me that I can find out that way. Almost certainly needs a new one anyway. Comments appreciated.

Thanks - I will try this - Pops ← If your battery is more than 3 years old, is most likely week or bad, it is recommended to avoid problems such as the aforementioned, is to replace the battery every 36 months. When you do the above the alternator/charging system should be tested to make sure no other components went in your foray. What is most likely happening, seems that most likely your battery ventured in what I would call, "the gray area." The battery is not really totally bad, nor totally good! Your battery is not keeping enough charge during mortor/charging/operation, then in the morning it recuperates, as part of its reserve and starts the car. They can even be full of battery water. Sometimes when batteries are in this threshold, they even test good in meters, with the results you have. If you have another car, that you know the battery is great exchange it and run the experiment, you probably will see no problem starting and running. If you keep running your car as you are doing you will kill the alternator also, since the battery does not keep enough charge at times. it will make the alternator work harder in fact killing it softly. The click is characteristic of low charge, or in some instances the battery connections bad, and also the starter. I would go first testing the battery with a known good one, cleaning the contacts, and last testing the whole charging starting system. If all of this fails then you have some other bad corroded cable, or bad ground, but this is very remote possibility. Go for the obvious the battery and cleaning its terminals, making sure they are tight and free of corrosion. C. PR ←

Thanks - I will try this - Pops

Thanks, Adz, They did meter the battery and got a reading of 11.5 - 12 volts. This could be just battery charge or if the battery was faulty i.e. down to say 9 volts then the alternator charge would make up the difference. So, I'm checking the battery out. Could take a few days owing to bank holiday. Will keep you informed. Thanks again. Pops.

thanks - will check this out and get back to you