is200 Newbie

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Everything posted by is200 Newbie

  1. Seems the cleaner is popular - I use it on a couple our car seats and have done for a while (lasts ages) - used to use the wax on the car also but gone over to the Turtle Magic Wax as it seems to work well for the colour of my car.
  2. I was quoted £2700 by Lexus a few years back for the fitting of both boxes and the centre section and I am pretty sure it was on a 4 to 6 week lead time for the parts. This was before the time that they were freely available on the web - I have had a stainless cat back but did not like the nose (drone in particular) so made my own. The only issue I have had with it so far it a split in a pipe from a speed hump. You have indicated that the body shop has not seen the damage and they have quoted against the pictures you have sent... i would very much guess that this is an estimate, in fact it is as it is indicated on the bill you have had. You really need to get the exhaust checked out - If the cost is accepted at this stage by the insurer and the body shop realises there is further work required are they going to replace parts or repair to keep their losses down? So you could end up with a repaired exhaust, not new?
  3. Check your policy for the use of a hire car. Did you get the other persons insurance details?
  4. The drone sound and the power loss will more than likely be associated with the exhaust being damaged - not a cheap repair if going down the lexus route. The gear shifts may also be associated to this (in auto mode) as the car due to the power loss will struggle to "find" the correct gear as the ecu will be compensating for the extra power going in but not coming out, if that makes sense. You will see it more pronounced around 40mph where the car will struggle to select between 3 applicable gears it can be in. The system is quite robust in the way the exhaust is installed but it will more then likely have failed around the centre resonator as it looks like it has been pushed up a bit by looking at the damage. I would suggest getting it on a ramp if you are carrying on driving to see the extent of any damage as if the exhaust fails completely then it could drop while driving and take out quite a bit from under the car not to mention other road users. If not too bad do a temporary repair until you are sorted with the insurance. Not sure where you stand though in doing it with the insurance. Wont they offer a loan car if you admit its becoming unroadworthy?
  5. I am glad we own underrated cars - long may it live on .....
  6. The premiums are high enough – why not let the insurance companies take part of the responsibility for a stolen car – They can recommend and have an alarm/immobiliser or whatever installed by them to endorse it. No come back on them turning a claim down if a car was stolen, likewise, a reduction in premiums for the car owner in having their recommended system installed. Hardly think it will stop the crime but it would drive the insurance companys harder to get something better done about the state of the stolen car issues. Also ... Can this weather be sorted?
  7. if its only for a few days them some orange transparent film/polythene and tape with a white bulb will be fine providing its not creating a risk to other road users.
  8. Dealer on Ebay is listing this IS as a 250 yet the car reg (done under a check) states its a 2014 GS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-IS-250-2-5-SE-I-4dr/332472900405?hash=item4d68eddb35:g:W70AAOSwySVZ8Jm1 Don't think anyone will fall for it if it is a scam but anyone looking beware ...
  9. Definitely get the exhaust fully checked ... at 3k for the back boxes and centre section (fitted by Lexus) and with all the other damage if the exhaust needs replacing then you may be looking at a write off in comparison to the value of the car. The exhaust has some strong rubber mounts, two on the back box pipe itself and two on the centre section so cant travel that much unless it has had a good whack.
  10. O2 sensor replacement Check VSC / traction / warning and engine lights came on recently. It started as an intermittent fault, they would light up on the way to work and go off on way home - it happened for 3 days until the lights came on permanently. I had no choice to drive it - I bought an ODBII reader and it reported back on Bank 1 Sensor 1 failure. I ordered two new sensors - Denso 234-9051 from the USA and they came this morning I am replacing both sensor 1's (Bank 1 and 2) Drivers and Passenger side as it makes sense as they have been in the car for the same length of time and while I am doing one I will do the other. Bank 1, Sensor 1 is on the drivers side / Bank 1, Sensor 1 is on the passenger side. Both are accessible from the engine bay. I replaced Bank 1, Sensor 1 tonight as this was the one reporting a failure. It took 15 mins (if that). Firstly I removed the drivers side engine cover Next, to get to the sensor easier, loosen and remove the fuse box shown in the picture below using a 10mm socket Do not remove from the car - just loosen - there is one 10mm bolt and one 10mm nut to take out - lift the fuse box out of the way as per the picture below You can now see the sensor and its also easier to remove. To remove, I used a 22mm 7/8 socket - open ended sensor socket - place this (or whatever you are using) over the sensor nut and loosen only - you may need some WD40 and a SMALL tap on the socket from a hammer to encourage it to move at first - don't take it off at this point First remove the sensor wire socket from the cars connecting plug - you will see from the new sensor you would have bought before doing this that there is a small securing lug on one side of the plug. Picture below is of the sensor plug still attached to the cars socket - a bit obscured To remove this you need to press down on a tab to the rear of the plug on the car which can be found on the side of the plug facing the bulkhead. While pressing on the tab gently pull the wire and the plug will come out of the socket. In taking the fuse box out of the way there is enough room to get both your hands into the sensor area. Once this is off I secured the wire with a bit of tape to an upper hose so I would not lose it into the depths of the car if I dropped it when the socket come off - I think it would drop through the bottom of the car but just in case it didn't I secured the wire. Next, remove the sensor itself. Doing it this way it will not twist the wire up as there are quite a few turns required to remove the sensor. With the sensor removed - (dead one shown below) Replace with the new one. Place the anti sieze compound on the threads of the new one before inserting it into its location. Put the sensor in first and then once secured fully, plug it into the cars socket. Replace the fuse box and engine cover. Job Done - re-connect the battery and you should have no more nasty lights on the dash. Reset the windows once you are happy with the job. I checked the error had gone by re-scanning the car with the ODB reader again. Noticeable differences. There are obviously a few - quieter running / revs are way down / too early to report on fuel consumption / car is now not lumpy when idling. Next job would be to do Bank 2, Sensor 1 - that's a weekend job as its getting a bit dark now. Pictures below of before and after on engine report Before After
  11. New Potential Lexus Owner/Recommendation

    Second the recommendation for the SE-L spec with ML entertainment system and the auto box - high miles are not an issue if its been looked after but depends on how many miles you are going to put on it, only for considering the re-sale value when you come to sell again. There are a few known issues with them - do your reading on the forum before purchasing. Not a lot goes wrong with them other than wear and tear
  12. I have just compared the packaging of the sensor - the picture I posted on page 1 to the picture you have posted and they are quite different - do you still have the box as I can compare it to the one I have as I kept the good sensor I had in it. The Japanese on the box I would have expected to see translated to "Air/Fuel sensor" but it is nothing like it in comparison to the translation site on Google. OK, I accept the packaging will change over the years but the box must show the part number etc ...(afterall the seller did say it was new) ...was it not working and it was re-sealed and sold on or an actual fake itself? Did you get the small tube of thread grease with it should be supplied with one? Is the seller still active on ebay?
  13. Don't know why they have made the selection so complicated ... the sensor does the same job in each bank, the two differing part numbers correspond to the correct sensor but with different lengths of wire installed. Strange, as the sensor with the shortest wire fits both banks and the sensor with the longer wire fits both as well. Why have they made it so hard? Rockauto have the part 2349051 @ £83.50 which are the ones I bought - mine is a 2007 model and I have had no issue with them since install (I think nearly 3 years now?) You can see from the attached image they have of the sensor that its scribed with the product info s/no on the sensor body. Did the one you purchased as new have this?
  14. Below is a user recommended list of parts used and proved on their cars - where possible part numbers will be shown - the list will be updated as and when parts are proved and hopefully the post will become a good stop point for info / part numbers for components on the cars. Part numbers are shown for guidance only ****** Brake Pads (Front) Mintex brand MDB2747 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Lexus OEM 04465-53040 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Pads (Rear) Mintex brand MDB2728 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Lexus OEM 04466-22190 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Shoes (Rear) Lexus OEM 4654044010 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Discs (Front) Brembo (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) MTEC dimpled / grooved discs (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Lexus OEM 43512-30310 (is200 Newbie) Brake Discs (Rear) Mintex brand MDC2250 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Two types exist for the 2007 model - solid and vented - these are vented Lexus OEM 42431-30290 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Two types exist for the 2007 model - solid and vented - these are vented Lexus OEM 42431-302820 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Two types exist for the 2007 model - solid and vented - these are NON-vented Slide Pin Grease Toyota Rubber Grease 08887-83010 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Squeal Compound Copper Grease (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Spark Plugs DENSO FK20HBR11 - x6 of ( thanks to chr15gb ) Tyres (Front) Avon ZV7 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Greenstar - Not suitable (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 2 K120 (225/45/17) (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Goodyear Efficient grip Performance (Normski2 - 2010 model) Tyres (Rear) Avon ZV7 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Greenstar - Not suitable (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Kumho Ecsta Le Sport KU39 (245/45/17) (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Coolant Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (Pink) 0888980150 Pre Mixed 1 litre top-up (is200 Newbie) Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (Pink) 0888980072 Pre Mixed 5 litre refill (is200 Newbie) Oil Shell helix ultra 5w30 (JamieG4454 - 2006 220d model) Castrol Magnatec 5W 30 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Castrol Magnatec 5W 30 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Oil pan sump washer Brake Fluid Shell DOT 4 brake and clutch fluid ESL (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Wiper Blades Denso - Passenger side DUR 050R 20" / Drivers side DU 055R 22" (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Bosch Aero Twin - Passenger Side AR20U / Drivers side AR22U (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Car Wax Headlight Bulb (HIDS) Bulb utilizing cree diodes, whitest LED, High power (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Osram Xenarc Cool Blue Intense D4S bulbs (Normski2 - 2010 model) Sidelight Bulb Metal bodied Cree type led (Normski2 - 2010 model) Indicator Bulb Spotlight Bulb Rear Light Bulb Reversing Bulb 50w led Cree bulbs (Normski2 - 2010 model) Interior Bulb 5 SMD type (Normski2 - 2010 model) Boot Bulb Festoon SMD type - 28mm length. (Normski2 - 2010 model) Rear Seat Dome Festoon SMD type - 28mm length. (Normski2 - 2010 model) Puddle Lights 5 SMD led's - 23-25mm length max (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 1 / Sensor 1 Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234-9051 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234/9048 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 2 / Sensor 1 Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234-9051 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234-9068 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 1 / Sensor 2 Denso 234-4521 (FOR 2006 - 13 MODELS) - Downstream O2 sensor (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 2 / Sensor 2 Denso 234-4521 (FOR 2006 - 13 MODELS) - Downstream O2 sensor (Normski2 - 2010 model) MAF sensor cleaner CRC Air Sensor Clean PCV Valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve Standard Motor Products V540 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Air Filter K & N Oiled Lifetime Filter 33-2345 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Oil Filter MANN Oil filter 501820149 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Cabin Pollen Filter Toyota part number 87139-YZZ16 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Fuel Additive BG44K fuel injector and engine cleaner (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Archoil AR6200 (Normski2 - 2010 model) BG44K fuel injector and engine cleaner (Normski2 - 2010 model) Oil Additive Wynnes Engine Flush (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Differential Oil Toyota Gear Oil LT 75W-85 - 0888581060 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Differential Oil Sump Plug Washer Boot Strut Nitrolift gas strut - SGS Engineering - part number: GSC2655 thanks to chr15gb Rubber seal rejuvenator Wurth Rubber Fit
  15. Is 250 II brakes upgrade

    I find they are pretty good for stopping Maybe you have issues with the calipers or need to change the choice of pads being used if it doesn't feel its stopping right?
  16. Sorry - I did answer this but have had issues with posting to the forum for some reason... Best place to start is to reset the codes using an ODBII reader - it will give you a place to start - if the replaced sensors have had any protective film on them then through use it would have burnt off by now (through use) - possible that the stored codes are still showing. Do you still have the "good" old sensor - you said before one had failed but you have replaced both - you could retrace your steps in replacing one of the new sensors with the known good one - its a bit of a faff but will prove the new sensors are good. It will give you the opportunity to re-check all the connections that were removed during the original install also. It would need to be a big vacuum leak to effect performance - pipe come off for instance. you MAY? hear a whistle or air escaping when the engine is running if theres a leak. A re-used clip should not give you any issue unless it was damaged / stretched when removing or replacing the hose back. Make a not of the existing codes and then reset the system and see what errors come up ... - it would not have passed the MOT if the emissions were high so its going to be something easy? to find/repair
  17. Looking at the photo and considering it is a mini roundabout there is a lot of visible "room" to assess the rights of the other road users at each junction. There are no obstacles in the way and there is clear view, looking at the picture of each vehicle from each junction. There would have been no clear right of way for the van as for him to bang into your friends car, your friend would have already been on the roundabout itself. The only way I can see this happening where the van hit your friends car was if she was speeding but regardless of that, the van if they had the foresight to see the car coming would have had to stop because it was not safe to enter the roundabout. Another scenario would be that you friend had here indicator on indicating she was turning left at the junction? Dashcam footage is so usefull in these incidents and yes, in agreement with comments above, do not mention the side taken by the police but report it separately. Isn't this what the legal cover on your insurance is for?
  18. It could have been dirt on the sensor when replaced - oil film or coming into contact with dirt when replacing the sensor? Did you replace both or just the one sensor? Keep an eye on it though as it could be (not saying it is) a copied sensor as you said it had Japanese writing on the box from a US Ebay supplier
  19. Was this the same dealer that originally told you that it was normal for them not to dip together or as much as each other?
  20. I will send my address for the box of Celebrations !!!!
  21. Have you tried to reset the ECU - battery lead off for half an hour or so and reconnection.... Worth a try, costs noting other than resetting windows etc
  22. Thanks Lucky - unfortunately I cant add any more detail to the original post as it is closed and cant be edited
  23. I am pretty sure your model will have inner brake shoes as well as the pads on the disc. The wheel looks like its taken a good whack - not that wheels these days need to be smacked hard to cause this damage .... if you are only experiencing the noise when moving could the smack to the wheel have caused some of the components in the brake disc, where the shoes sit, to have moved or dislodged? The old IS200 had a dust shield on the back of the disc that needed cleaning from rust / dirt etc every so often as it suffered a bit from a screeching / whine noise and it was the rotation of the disc rubbing on a thinly machined groove in the shield that caused it from getting clogged up with rust/dirt. Its quite conceivable, if the design has not changed, that you could have bent the disk a bit or the assembly or dislodged it and its rubbing on this shield creating the noise?
  24. I don't consider old cars with low mileage myself, due to the reasons you have mentioned above as the car at the end of the day is still, in this case, coming up for 11 years old. That's why I mentioned the OP if considering it would be in a good position to haggle the price down. There's ideal info on the forum to assess against the car to see if there's issues with it. An independent check over the car by another garage / mechanic would be a good bet to see if there are issues. It would be ideal as a car that's going to be used to put mileage on it and I would imagine there would be more re-sale value if sold under the average mileage in a few years time than buying a newer one. I don't know the amount of owners it has had, it would be a different story if it has had numerous keepers over the years.
  25. Have look at this IS - being advertised on ebay Super low mileage for the year at 27k and its a 2007 SE-L https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-Lexus-IS-250-SE-L-Auto-Black-Black-Leather-AC-Nav-Mark-Levison-27k-mile-FSH/382304826182?hash=item590324b346:g:PMkAAOSwRNhaEX1Z Consider if you are going to put the miles on it then this mileage will be ideal - the cost is quite high though but this reflects the mileage - a good prospect for haggling to get the price down a bit. Worth a punt if you don't mind the age of the car...