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rob_clio172 last won the day on September 24

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About rob_clio172

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    Rob_IS300 NA-T
  • Birthday 11/07/1983

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  • Lexus Model
    IS 300
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Mk4 LS400

    97k its barely broken in, lovely cruiser
  2. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    Sorry yeh i was meant to edit that after i posted, i edited some bits but forgot that, its 61.985mm. The engine has never been apart or worked, no tell tale signs of anything ever being done. Well i will be using different rods so rod bearings will definatly have to be changed. Aftermarket bearings seem to come in a "standard fitment" 1 size fits all which are meant to put you in the middle of the standard clearance range but i would rather use the toyota main bearings as the clearances can be fine tuned also they are proven to take abuse. Need to do some thinking on the rod bearings weather to use aftermarket or toyota.
  3. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    Cheers 👍 there has been a couple of times ive sat back looked at everything and thought what the hell am i doing 😂😂
  4. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    Small update from the garage, i now have crank removed. The bearings again are absolutly perfect no marks at all on any of them! Dont worry the crank has not been left on the floor either as i know they can warp, when ive not been measuring it its been back in the block resting. Now heres the strange bit, the bearings are perfect and the journals are also perfect but when measuring the journals with a micrometer my readings have been different to what was originally measured when assembled at factory. No much difference but for example : Journal 7 is stamped on the block as mark "4" which is 61.990mm - 61.992mm I have measured 61.885mm which would be mark "7" see picture below on the 2nd table (sorry about poor quality the forum has killed it) and this is the same case for all the main journals all under reading what the factory stamp says. Now i know this says its for 2jz-gte but my understanding is the block, crank and bearings are the same. At 1st i thought maybe its the micrometer but its calibrated and been set with the 50mm tool. So i then plastigauged it and low and behold every journal is slightly over the standard oil clearance, reading between 0.045mm - 0.050mm. Toyota says 0.026mm - 0.040mm std, maximum allowed is 0.060mm. Big question is, do i stick with this clearance as i know the crank and bearings are perfect after 12yrs and 28k and its under the maximum allowed? Or do i reset the clearances slightly lower into the top end of toyotas std spec? I say top end because its going to be hopefully running over triple the amount of standard power, not to mention the stress of boost pressure on the internals and extra heat generated and think slightly larger clearance would be beneficial. Need to do some more research and some more measuring to be 100% on this before i bang it back together. Going away from that i also made a start on locating the aem into the glove box, ive cone cuttered the inner wing for the plugs to go through and just need to order a grommet now. Had to remove the fuse box Heres the start of the hole i cut on the passenger inner wing into the footwell. Heres a view from inside The hole now is the same as the door loom grommet so getting hold of 1 of those will be prefect for it.
  5. Mk4 LS400

    Absolutly love these barges, great example. How many miles does she have?
  6. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    Thanks matey
  7. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    Thanks matey 👍 no im not going to bother, theres no real need to add them tbh, many have done it this way without. Some people with higher bhp 2jz-gte's have also deleted the oil squirters to improve oil pressure. I will be upgrading to the GTE oil pump though. Ive also been toying with the idea of an oil cooler too.👍
  8. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    So another weekend here and loads more done!! Finished off the loom, just waiting for some split corrugated plastic coating to come now... Once that was done i decided to do something about the shocking paintwork in the bay on the passenger side, i sanded the rust down from the battery acid leak and prepped the paintwork. Primer applied ....... ghetto style masking 😂 bodywork is not a speciality of mine so i was not expecting anything great but anything would be better than what was there before! Not great but alot better now. With that done i left the heater on it all day. I then started cliping the loom back in place and chucking all the little bits back in the bay on that side. I also managed to get a little more done with the engine, pulled the sumps off, oil pump removed and got the pistons/rods out of it. Engine is in fantastic condition! Not a mark on any of the rod bearings or the bores, no sign of any kind of wear. Not touched the crank mains yet as im waiting for plastigauge to come to measure oil clearances. Also getting a straight edge from work to check the block and bore gauge. Everything will be in spec but as im at this point it would be crazy not to make sure. Ive ordered some of the engine internals now wiseco pistons, brian crower rods, ARP head and main studs, looking at ACL bearings. Once thats done its onto the head, got some tasty things in mind for this too! Hope you guys are enjoying these updates 👍
  9. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    Well ive had a very productive weekend and ive got loads done, more than i expected tbh! I continued sorting out the body wiring harness and the ecu box relocation. I managed to find some old brackets at work to secure the ecu box, all i had to do was shape them to hold the box and drill the holes to bolt them. The black bracket you can see here just needs straightening slightly. This is the top bracket which will secure to the fuse box bolting point. And this is how its sitting. Just need to remove the brackets now and spray them black to hide them. The next bit was mind numbing...... but strangely i had fun 😂 it was time to extend the harness. Here some stats as i like stats... 67 wires to extend. 134 soldered joints 134 shrink wraps 73 feet of wire (2,077 inches) 1 can of butane gas for my pencil torch No idea how much solder As you can see its not quite finished, i have 15 more wires todo but ran out of heat shrink and my pencil torch packed up! Once done it will be taped up and will cover it with some hard plastic split coating to protect it. The wiring has not cost me a penny, i got a complete vehicle body harness from work off a BMW F30 and just picked out the correct gauge wires (wasnt interested in wire colours) to match that of the wires on the lexus. This is the loom during the hacking. I also acquired loads of loom clips that pin the loom to the body as these will always come in handy. As this came to a halt because of the shrink wraps and pencil torch issue i moved on to the engine. Managed to get the head off pretty quick as alot of the engine was already stripped down. The engine was in fantastic condition inside which you would expect on a 12 year old engine with full service history and just 28k on the clock No signs of any sludge or staining Once the head was off i had a quick look at the pistons and bores and these too are in good condition. Not had the sumps off yet. And thats it for the weekend, looking to finish the loom some time in the week and hit it again next weekend.
  10. SC430 project

    You have done a great job of that it looks spot on!
  11. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    The cross member will need some re working, nothing too bad though and will probably have to space the cross member out half an inch or so from the body. I had to use a w58 megan racing mount to bolt to the standard auto cross member
  12. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    thanks matey. Do it!! i did look into the 6speed v160 as these can handle huge amounts of power proven upto 1000bhp but they come at a big price! i also looked at the nissan cd009 gearbox with a conversion plate as these too can handle big power but i would prefer to keep things toyota/lexus. The r154 can handle enough power for my goals although there has been people who have had these fail but this could be age and abuse related. Aslong as its treated with some mechanical sympathy i think it should be ok.
  13. SK IS200 build thread :-) HKS Hi Power

    Really love the wheels and they sit perfectly flush to the arch
  14. IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

    So another small update, i was hoping to get lots done this weekend as weather forcast was good and i was not working....... well the mrs had other plans and ive ended up decorating all saturday!! I also forgot to bring my tools home from work so today i set about doing something small that i didnt need many tools for. I made a start on relocating the factory engine ecu box up where the battery use to live. It was going to need some chopping and modding to make this work, i trimmed down the old air feed pipe that comes from the fan cowling. Also cut away the old pipe which goes down to by the washer bottle, this was to avoid contact with the brake pipe for the passenger front. I also cut away from 1 of the supports for the bolting positions as this was touching the wiring loom coming out of the bulk head. Now i know it looks rough as a bear's arse but this will be tidied up with a small set of fine files just so it looks tidy. Once this was done i trial fitted it to see if it was ok with the bonnet down. This is the advantage of having no engine or front end on the car i can crawl into the bay 😂. Plenty room, as you can see its resting on that brake line but it will sit around half an inch above this when i have had some brackets fabricated. This now means the factory body loom that goes in through the bottom of ecu box need to be lengthened by around half a meter or so. Ive also been eyeing up where to locate the AEM and the glove box is prime place, its looking difficult though as to where im going to get the loom through the bulk head to it. Its very tight up behind the glove box and around the blower motor.
  15. SK IS200 build thread :-) HKS Hi Power

    Sorry matey i should have worded that differently. I meant how is the ride with the coil overs? Do they handle well? Also are you able to change the dampening stiffer or softer?