br1anstorm

I have a 2002 IS300 SportCross. I have owned it since 2011, I am only the second owner and I have the service history. The cambelt (timing belt) was replaced in 2008 at 41,000 miles. The car has now done about 115,000 miles, so perhaps I should be thinking of replacing the belt again. Is it too soon to do so? How easy is it simply to check the condition of the belt? The actual replacement task looks like a garage workshop job, not a DIY project that I would want to tackle. If I do go ahead, I assume it will be important to use genuine Lexus/Toyota parts, as this is not something where it's worth taking risks with non-OEM replacements. Any suggestions on the best sources for a belt-replacement kit would be welcome. And.... is it necessary - or prudent - to replace the water pump at the same time? My own instinct is that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it..." . But if the belt is going to be changed, should I get the water pump (which is not that cheap!) changed too?

I have a 2002 IS300 SportCross. I'm just the second owner. The car had done about 60k miles when I bought it as a warranted used car from a Lexus dealer in 2011. It has now done 115k miles, mostly long distance motorway journeys. I now have it checked by my local independent garage (there is no Lexus dealer in my part of Scotland) and it passes the annual MoT with no issues. But I'm beginning to think hard about the front lower ball-joints, because serious experts posting on the forums suggest that they are a well-known weakness and they can fail disastrously with little or no warning. I'd rather take precautionary action before that. As far as I can tell there is no sign of an imminent problem. I had the suspension adjusted to the Tony Bones/WIM recommended settings some years ago, and the front tyres no longer wear excessively on the inner part of the tread. I've just replaced all the tyres anyway and they are balanced. The only issue I have noticed is a very slight steering-wobble or transient vibration when braking lightly at cruising speeds. It was evident both before and after I replaced the tyres. I suppose this could just be the result of uneven wear on front pads or discs, but it set me thinking.... So the question is: at this mileage, should I get the lower ball joints replaced anyway? And if I do so, will the suspension settings have to be re-done? My garage has a Hunter machine, but would (by default) probably rely on the standard Lexus specification, which we know to be inappropriate. My problem is that I don't have a record of the Tony Bones/WIM settings to pass on to my local garage. Any advice on the need for replacement LBJs - and comment/info on the suspension settings - would be appreciated....

Thanks to both chris @lexus22 and @ColinBarber. I've just been catching up after a week or two away. In fact after checking UK dealers (Lexus and Toyota) and Lexus Parts Direct, whom I have dealt with for other parts, it became clear that Amayama offered the best deal at about £12 delivered: half the price of other quotes. So I ordered it, and the part - genuine Toyota/Lexus - arrived by airmail from the UAE within less than a fortnight. I'm well impressed, and plan to fit it this weekend. Problem solved, I hope!

For the cabin/pollen filter take a look at this listing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334808062362 . There are several others also listed. If I remember rightly that's the item I bought for my 2002 IS300 SportCross back in 2021. Key thing is to check the dimensions to be sure of getting the right replacement. The listing also gives a useful selection of alternative part numbers from other manufacturers which you could also use to search.

Just happened to notice this post. Although it's always worth checking what dealers or Lexus Parts Direct will charge for routine replacement items like oil filters, air filters, and cabin/pollen filters, it is usually cheaper and easier to do a search online for equivalent replacement parts. I bought a Bosch cabin/pollen filter from an online supplier not long ago: cost me about £9. And I think the last oil filter I got was either Bosch or Mann, also cheaper than the Toyota/Lexus one. On the separate question of how to fix striplights or similar extra items, the choice is basically simple. Either double-sided sticky tape, or velcro strips (which also have to stick to the car-interior surface). Otherwise, the alternative is to fix the lights or accessories permanently using screws, which is not a good idea as this obviously leaves permanent holes and damage when removed

An immediate update! I have cleaned off the grease and muck, and I have managed to find the part number for this mysterious rubber grommet. It is 90950-01809. And a quick online search reveals that it is described as a "Flywheel Inspection Cover". Evidently it fits the 1JZ engine in various Lexus and Toyota models. That's the good news. The less encouraging news is that it seems hard to source. Ebay lists suppliers in the US, Poland and Latvia, with the price anywhere upwards of £25. My local Toyota dealer quotes £23. It looks as if I can order it from Amayama for about £12 inc delivery to UK...... Can anyone suggest a better deal from a UK supplier?

I've been spending the last few fine days under the car. My 2002 IS300 SportCross was in need of some cleaning up and rust-removal, so I've been applying Lanoguard (but I'll leave comments on that for a separate post). I removed the various plastic undertrays/shields in order to inspect and access the underside of the car. Incidentally these undertrays seem to do a decent protection job. But while looking around the engine/transmission/driveline down the middle of the car, I noticed a very large rubber grommet - it is actually a blanking plug - fitted into the mounting bracket (or is it part of the casting of the engine block?) just forward of what I would call the flywheel (or the torque converter.?). And this 'grommet' was slightly ill-fitting - see photos. The lower lip is slightly buckled, and clearly some oil seeps out because the insulation padding on the undertray is oil-soaked. It looks as if the grommet covers a hole which gives access to the bolts on the flywheel itself, presumably necessary if removing/dismantling the transmission. Anyway, I pulled this grommet out. I noticed two things. First, it isn't exactly oval in shape: it is very slightly U-shaped, so will only fit one-way up. Second, the inside of the rubber surface had two fairly substantial "grooves" worn into it. See last pic. I can only guess that this must have been done by the heads of the bolts on the flywheel as it rotates. Now here's the question. What exactly is the part number of this grommet, as it seems sensible to replace it? It is clearly a very specific part, not a standard oval or circular grommet, because of its unique slightly curved shape. But I cannot find it in any of the various parts-catalogues I have looked at (including the Amayama website). It doesn't seem to be listed or shown in any illustrated parts-diagram.

Haven't been on the forum for a while, so I've only just caught up with this thread. Thanks, @ColinBarber for that advice and warning. I think I had also discovered that little technical point in something else I had read.... Anyway, time for an update. I have a really good local bodyshop so I turned to them. And (though it wasn't exactly cheap) I managed to source headlamp, washer, actuator, nozzle etc from Lexus Parts Direct aka Fish Brothers down in Swindon, who were very helpful. So my SportCross is restored to a decent state again. Now that the winter is over I'm getting it ready for some serious travelling in the coming months....

I just happened to come across a post recently which mentioned the sad news that Tony Bones of Wheels In Motion, the real expert in sorting out IS200/300 suspension geometry, had passed away in February 2022. Tony was the source of all wisdom on steering geometry, suspension tuning and wheel alignment. He actually re-worked and corrected the standard Lexus factory settings for IS200/300, which were wrong and resulted in unusual tyre wear. I think he also did similar work on various other marques, and was well known and respected by a number of owners' clubs. A very sad loss. I took my IS300 SportCross to his premises in Chesham years ago for adjustment, and what a difference it made. I was just reflecting on whether I ought to revisit for a checkup (it's a long trip for me) when I discovered that he had gone. So now I wonder: as Wheels In Motion itself has apparently ceased trading, or rebranded itself as Blackboots, and has apparently been taken over by ProTyre, is there anybody still there - or indeed anywhere else - who has the full details, and a technical understanding, of the modified settings which Tony Bones worked out and applied?

My IS300 SportCross recently suffered a minor impact which cracked the nearside corner of the main front panel. That whole bumper-panel has to be replaced - which is not too big a task. But there are two other bits of damage which seem minor but might prove expensive. I've noticed that although the headlight looks fine, the plastic 'bracket' piece at the top inner corner, where it bolts to the bodywork, has cracked or sheared (see photo). I suppose I could try to re-glue it with JBWeld or something similar but I am not sure that will be strong or stable enough. The alternative may be to replace the entire headlamp unit - and a new HID unit costs some £265 unless anyone can suggest a better, cheaper source.... The other headache is the headlamp washer on that side. The cap has gone, and the pop-up spray nozzle thingy to which the cap was fixed has clearly been damaged. From a study of various parts-lists and websites, it looks as if, when the bumper panel is removed, I may need to replace the "actuator sub-assembly" (p/n 85208-53020, I think), the little plastic bracket or frame in which the cap or spray-nozzle sits (8572-53020) and the cap itself. It seems as if the actuator sub assembly may be hard to find and/or very expensive. I might simply do without the washer facility and cap the hole in the bumper. Is that possible? It seems that even finding the cap, and the frame or bracket into which it fits, may be a challenge. Can anybody offer thoughts/advice? I read this very old forum post which dates from 2009, and I'm not sure whether the parts can still be found....

Thanks again, Len.... Yes, like you I had done a bit of searching online, and I had seen references to the "flap" and foam filters supposedly on the top of the rear part of the headlight unit. But I cannot see or find any such flap or filters as I look at my car's lights. I have also looked very closely at whatever photos and diagrams I can find online of the rear of the unit. None seems to show or point to any such flap. I ended up wondering if this flap and filter only existed on certain models - or maybe only on non-HiD systems (I think the IS200, for example has different light units). If anyone reading this can point to a picture which shows this flap and filter, I'd be very interested! I had also considered the possibility that a bulb may not be correctly or fully in place. It is really difficult to access the bulbs, other than the side-light one which I have removed and refitted a couple of times. I don't think any of the others have ever been removed or replaced. A badly-located bulb seems unlikely to be the route for moisture to get in, though of course I can't rule it out totally... Definitely no question of front-end impact. I've had the car for almost 10 years, there was one previous owner, and I have all the history. Tracing a tiny leak, a seal failure, or perhaps a hairline crack in the plastic (which I suppose is what I'm trying to do) is a real challenge!

Thanks Len - good to have the opportunity to discuss this problem. To answer your questions.... the problem is only with the left (passenger side) unit. The one on the right is fine and never shows any condensation irrespective of weather conditions. And I cannot see any chip, crack or hole anywhere on either the front 'glass', or in what I can see of the plastic moulded 'body' of the unit. So I can't work out how the moisture is getting in. The condensation doesn't seem to clear (or not very much) with the lights on. I haven't tried an extended period on high beam though. Do the HiD bulbs generate a lot of heat? I've done a bit of internet research. It seems that halogen bulbs - which have a filament which glows when hot - generate a lot of 'radiant' heat which then heats up the glass in front of it. HiD bulbs themselves do run hotter (in simple terms the light comes from a "plasma arc" within the bulb - like lightning or an arc welder - which has huge voltage). But HiD lamps have a lens or shield in front, so the heat is apparently not transferred forward or outward to the same extent. There is definitely no discolouration of the front 'glass' (the transparent lamp cover). I dried out the unit thoroughly by removing the sidelight bulb and using a hairdryer and plastic tube to blow warm air into the unit. The front glass was crystal clear. The condensation disappeared. But after the car had sat outside overnight (and though it was chilly I don't think it rained much if at all) the condensation was back.... In order to examine the headlamp unit fully - or to replace it with another one from a breaker - I will have to remove it. The presence of the screenwash reservoir and filler behind the LH headlamp means there's not much room to manoeuvre. I really don't relish the idea of having to take off the front bumper panel as well as pulling the front wheel arch to do so, which is why I was looking for a simple how-to guide to getting the headlamp unit out.

Five weeks and no replies, which is a bit disappointing. I have a follow up question. Can anyone advise on how to remove a headlight, ideally without removing the front bumper panel. There is an archived guide in the forum at .... ..... but the links to the various photos/images no longer work. If anyone can explain how to access those images, I would really appreciate it!

I have a 2002 IS300 Sportcross. I have never removed the rear lamp cluster. But I attach a screenshot of the relevant part of the [US] service manual. The instructions are pretty useless, but the diagrams may help....

Just a brief comment or two, as I have a 2002 IS300 Sportcross which has also needed a replacement condenser (the original suffered a pinhole leak). I was lucky in that I have a specialist A/C technician who looks after the aircon in my various cars. It is probably wise (but not necessarily essential) to replace the dryer if the system is 'opened' to the atmosphere and other new elements - like the condenser - fitted. While @Kiefelsis right to set out all the warnings about refrigerants etc, the reference to R12 is a red herring. All Lexus vehicles since at least 2001 will have a/c with R134a, which is still legal. The golden rule is not to mix, recharge or add any other refrigerant - and definitely not to put in any of the rubbish leak-stoppers or substitute chemicals. It is vital to have a tech do a full check, draw down the system to a vacuum, and refill with the precise quantity of refrigerant (R134a) specified and- equally important - the right lubricant oil. It's also very useful, when this is done, to do a leak test. This involves the addition of a fluorescent marker to the R134a which shows up under special (U/V?) light. This is because the molecules of refrigerant are very small and - especially if the a/c isn't regularly used - can escape through joints or hoses which can become slightly porous. The refrigerant will be lost again. So no point in a simple recharge if it all leaks out in weeks! Good practice reminder: it is sensible to run the a/c regularly, all year round including winter, to keep the refrigerant and oil circulating, to keep the seals lubricated, and thus minimise the risk of leaks. And - another tip - always worth changing the cabin [pollen] filter (it's fitted behind the glovebox and easy to access). It doesn't affect the actual a/c operation; but it can get clogged up and smelly. I did mine recently and I suspect it hadn't ever been changed. For less than £10 it's an easy DIY job.

I've recently noticed some condensation in the headlights of my 2002 IS300 Sportcross. A browse through the forum suggests that this is a problem in several models. There seem to be various possible ways of trying to deal with it - from gentle hairdryer heat, to drilling ventilation holes, to trying to put a dehumidifier sachet into the unit! I haven't tried to remove the headlamp(s), still less dismantle them. The first and basic question is - are the headlamp units sealed (or supposed to be watertight)? If so, then it would seem necessary to check for holes, cracks, or leaks, assuming the bulb/wiring locations and connections are properly sealed, and then repair/seal them up once any moisture has been removed from the inside of the unit. I've seen a linked YouTube video which shows how to do this on a rear light unit, which was however LEDs. I assume my IS300 headlamps are HID, which generate a lot more heat. If however the units are not sealed, then the key would seem to be to ensure appropriate ventilation, and rely on air-circulation and/or heat from the lamp bulb itself, to remove any moisture. Hence presumably the drilling-extra-holes idea? So any thoughts or advice on how to get rid of condensation - permanently - would be welcome. Not only is it a matter of effective lighting, I also worry that moisture inside the unit can't be good for the electrics of the lamp itself.....

It's been a while since I posted the details of this damage to my IS300 Sportcross.... and I can at least report good news. In the end I didn't need to source replacement wing or bumper. The other driver's insurers told my bodyshop that they would pay the full cost of repairs, so no consequences or cost for my insurance or NCD. The bodyshop sourced the two replacement panels required, and confirmed there was no other damage (eg to lights or mounting brackets). They did the work - brilliantly - and I have the car back in immaculate condition. So thanks to those who kindly offered advice and sympathy. It all ended satisfactorily.

Yes, John... The thought had crossed my mind. I have a custom S/S exhaust on one of my other cars. But surely a complete custom system would be more than that, especially if it includes catalysts... Which are not cheap. That's why I'm considering just a direct replacement for the back section and box - though ideally not at dealer price! Are the cheaper non-OEM alternatives (eg on eBay) worth looking at, or might there be issues of quality or fit?

I'd appreciate some quick help and advice. I'm away from home so can't check my parts info. The rear silencer box on my 2003 Is300 SportCross parted company with the exhaust pipe as I was driving south from my home in Scotland today. I removed the box, and the car is of course still driveable if a bit noisy. Neither of the dealers on my route (Edinburgh and Newcastle) have a replacement in stock. To help in my search.... Can anyone advise whether the same part fits the saloon and the Sport Cross? The only number I have is 17430 46660. Next question is - any advice on alternative sources or suppliers? The OEM part is £400-ish from a dealer with 3-4 weeks delivery. If Lexuspartsdirect happen to have one on the shelf, I will be in their area on Monday and could collect (they are due to call me back). But if there are better or cheaper options or recommendations (I'm browsing Ebay right now), please let me know ASAP....

Steve - thanks for both those posts. I will PM you with car details and code etc with an email address. Useful also to have your story of similar experience. Nice to feel I'm not alone. At this point I have no idea how the insurance discussions will go. The other driver's insurers (LV=) have confirmed in writing that they are prepared to pay the costs of rectifying the damage to my car, as a Third Party Claim on his policy. They offered the option of either having the work done by one of their authorised bodyshops (and they would guarantee the work) or to pay for it to be done by a repairer I choose (in which case they would not be answerable for the quality....). I decided on the latter - not least because of geography, I preferred to 'go local' with a firm I know. They offered a hire car - which I declined, saying that I wished to ensure that the maximum amount of claims-payout should go to ensuring that the repair was done to the highest possible standard and not constrained by cost. Next step is for the insurers to see and - I hope - agree the estimate. Not sure whether or when - if at all - I need to involve my own insurers. Meanwhile the good news is that both the bodyshop (who have been checking their sources) and my contact with LPD indicate that the parts are pretty readily available - which was my initial anxiety. I hadn't yet started to think about options if the insurers quibble or decline the quote for the repair costs and want to write the car off. I'm not aware of whether they use a claims management company: at present it seems the dialogue will be between them and my chosen local repairer. So your post is a useful guide as to what to think about if that situation arises. Painful though it is, here's pics of the damage to my car.... and one of the side of the other driver's car. Still cannot believe how incompetent he was.... in a near-empty retail centre car park .... to do that.

Many thanks - especially to @Tel and @ColinBarber - both for the words of reassurance and the practical advice and information on where to find the parts I need. As regards the offside front wing panel, there seems a reasonable prospect that I might find one (I have seen one listed when I did a quick browse of the well-known auction site!). What I don't have are the part numbers - though the details in @Razor61's post (a screenshot from Amayama?) suggest I need part 53801-53040. I'm not sure how the "discharge headlights" aspect is a factor. As I read the details in that post, this relates to the wing panel. I understood that the actual headlights (and the spaces into which they fit) are the same for all. My car does have the discharge headlights. The search for a front bumper panel looks a little more complicated. I suspect and believe that any IS200/IS300 bumper would fit (same mounting and fixing points). But I have discovered that there are differences between the 200 and the 300 items. The IS300 SC bumper was "subtly restyled" in about 2002/2003 to be more "sporty and wide". The intake below the numberplate is a different shape, and the mouldings for the foglamps are a bit different. I attach a page - as a PDF - from a manual I found somewhere online which shows the difference very clearly. I have just had a look at the Amayama website (I hadn't even heard of them!) and when I put in my car's VIN number, it comes up with a part number, 52119-53906 for the bumper which seems to tally with the LPD part number - see the other image attached. If I end up ordering parts for delivery from Japan, I'll need to be 100% sure I'm ordering the right bits! If anyone can help with that (or point me in the right direction to find the right info) I'd be very grateful. I hadn't heard of Amayama before, and I'm not sure if I can access toyodiy.com, so any tips would be useful. The reference to getting parts via the UAE is fascinating (I used to work out in that region!). Can @Razor61 give me more details? Anyway, thanks for the help so far. All further advice will be welcome from those with greater knowledge/experience.... 0010 - New Features - Front and Rear Design.pdf

It's ages since I have visited the forum... which is just evidence that my IS300 Sportcross has been running smoothly and fault free for years. It's a 2002 model, still modest mileage, and immaculate. Well... until today. My car was parked in a half empty retail shopping park, lots of vacant spaces all around. I had gone into a shop to buy various things. I came out to be hailed by a passer by, who shouted that he'd just seen another car crunch into and damage my car. Sure enough: the front wing on the driver's side was crumpled, and the front right part of the bumper panel had been scraped, hooked and ripped away. Hadn't damaged headlight or wheel. But still a mess. I took photos but haven't the heart to post them up. The other driver had parked (again) nearby. Elderly, apologetic, accepted full responsibility, said his insurers would pay for the damage, couldn't understand what had happened : "was parking alongside.....must have been a lack of concentration.... heard some sort of noise, thought it was the brakes on my car....". I'm deeply upset. Devastated. Now begins the tedious process of trying to pursue a claim against his insurers. I have had a local bodyshop take an initial look at the damage. The verdict is that new wing and new bumper will be needed, (and maybe whatever bracket or support is in that front corner), but that it's repairable. I haven't yet got a figure. Two issues. First as it's almost 19 years old the insurance company are likely to try to argue that - despite its condition - it's not worth fixing and they will push to write it off. I will have to fight that battle if it happens. Second, sourcing those two panels might be a challenge. I don't know, and neither did the bodyshop, whether it's still possible to get original replacement panels from Lexus for this model. By the way, the car is the 'platinum' colour. The fallback option may have to be a breaker. Which is the reason for this post. An appeal for help and advice on good sources of the panels if we have to go searching. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

I think it's still possible to get tailored/fitted car covers from Covercraft. I have used these on other cars, and they are pretty good: breathable, not waterproof, so they are better than the plastic ones. But if you want to keep your car well-protected from the winter weather, and don't have a dry garage, I'd recommend an outdoor Carcoon. Not cheap, and you need a mains power socket to run the transformer which powers the fans and also keeps the battery trickle-charged. Not really sensible if you are aiming to continue using the car on a daily/weekly basis, as putting the Carcoon up and taking it down is a bit of an exercise. But far better than any car cover if you are in effect "storing" the car outside over the winter.

I'm not sure whether to be relieved or embarrassed to post up a comment in this thread.... but the moral of the story is important. It is: Start with the basics! I have a 2002 IS300 Sportcross, unmodified, which has done just over 100k miles. At the start of a long-ish trip last week I noticed a slight 'knocking' noise from the near side front. It varied with speed, almost disappeared under gentle braking and was more noticeable when turning slightly away from the straight ahead. It seemed to get worse after some 30-40 miles - so I turned round and came home (and we did the long trip in my wife's car instead). Having read the forum posts, and remembering that there was a known story about mysterious knocks/rattles from the suspension, I looked carefully at the bushes, ball-joints, and shocks when we got back. No leaks, nothing obviously broken or out of line. I was puzzled. Today I passed by my regular workshop and mentioned the problem. Without even taking the car round the block, my friendly mechanic asked, with a straight face - "Have you checked the wheel-nuts?". Errr, um, I admitted that I hadn't. Thirty seconds later with a 21mm socket spanner - sure enough, all the nuts on the n/s front wheel were seriously loose! Stupid me, so anxious about shocks and suspension that I had totally overlooked the most obvious thing to check. It pains me now to own up. But I thought I should share my embarrassment, as it was a reminder (which might also help others) how important it is to check the simple things and not necessarily fear the worst.....!

Time for an update - and it's all good news. Bought a used/second-hand satnav DVD unit (the box mounted under the boot floor) off the well-known auction site for a very modest price. The one I bought was from a Toyota Avensis. Made by Denso, with serial number 86841-53041. Interestingly, it even came with the same mounting-brackets as are used in the IS200/300. I swapped them over, connected the replacement one up - and hooray! It works perfectly. So this might be useful info for anyone else whose satnav says "unable to read DVD". In researching online, I have also learned that one possible explanation is that, with age, the power-supply to the laser head which "reads" the DVD does gradually reduce. My Lexus (and its satnav) is 17 years old, so that seems the likely explanation. There is a fix (explained on YouTube). Basically you open up the unit and find the potentiometer which manages the power-supply to the laser. Apparently there is an adjustment-slot which you can turn very carefully with a thin screwdriver or pocket-knife-blade to increase/decrease the voltage setting. Too much, and the laser will burn out; too little, and the laser isn't bright enough to read the DVD. So I'm going to try that with the faulty unit which I have just removed, to see if that revives it.