James Trendall

Has anyone got a list of ECU pinouts? It would be very handy. I've seen multiple post's around that link to a couple of places but the website/link is dead so not very helpful.

Hey guys, So after a long time away working on my RX8 i've come back to my Lexus IS200 daily. I'm currently looking for a complete ECU diagram for each wire. I'm looking for, 12v ignition wire, RPM signal wire, Crank shaft sensor wire Ground (Most likely use a bolt in the engine bay for this.) I've searched online all day with nothing but gibberish coming up and dead links. I've found countless IS300 diagrams which seem to be different. I've tested and failed. Has anyone got a list for the 4 plugs on the top of the ECU? It would be very handy. thanks James EDIT: After sifting through tons of pictures i think i have a part list of what i need. Working from front to back of the car i have, A-B-D-E plugs. 12v power seems to be from Plug A Pin 1 RPM seems to be from Plug A Pin 12 Crank Angle Sensor seems to be from Plug E pin 23 Ground most likely to the chassis. Can anyone confirm if i'm anywhere close to the correct pins/plugs? This is all i can workout looking at random diagrams online which seem to be part complete or taken from SXE10 engines which are 100% different apart from the power.

Ok so as an update i've found out that the 17mm bolts should be 12mm bolt diameter, JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) 17mm head for the 2 bolts holding the bracket on. The two 14mm that connect caliper to bracket should be 10mm bolt diameter, JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) 14mm head. Now i've got that information i've found 12x1.25x(length) JIS bolts for the 17mm ones needed and 10x1.25x(length) JIS bolts for the 14mm. Now it's time to get those bolts out once more and double check the length to get a final answer as to what i need to buy and replace. Update On the piston sticking. I pulled the caliper up a little and pushed both pads apart. While doing this i heard a click sound. Sort of if you had cracked some plastic/glass since that my brakes have not held on or got stuck but still going to change the seals and pistons to be safe.

I've got the same problem with the steering judder/vibrating once the discs have warmed up roughly between 50-70mph. Turns out the piston is getting stuck and over heating the disc and pads. Go for a 5 mile drive and just place your hand close to the disc's. One side will be hotter than the other. The hotter side will be the problematic side. I've replaced the disc's, pads, checked the sliders and everything is fine only thing left is the piston itself. I've got a £25 recon kit (New pistons and seals etc...) this should fix the problem. While you have the wheel off try spinning the wheel to see if it catches at all after letting it stand for a little bit. Also once the disc is off spin the hub while using a jack to gently touch the edge of the hub and see if that catches. If that catches new hub if that's fine then disc's and slider/pistons for the caliper.

I'm surprised no one with a TTE cradle has got a handful made up and started selling them for £100 yet. Seriously the amount of people asking for them is way to high. Or at very least uploaded the schematics to print off and take to any fabricator to make.

A very helpful member sent me a complete TTE kit list .pdf With this info i was able to source all the parts to Frankenstein myself a supercharger kit for roughly £500 including the black box needed. The list basically consists of, M62 or M45 super charger from a Merc. Pully and belts, pipes, intercooler, black box. The hardest part to get is the cradle but through some trial and error you can fabricate one easy enough with some steel tubing or if you have a member living close by with a TTE charger they might let you borrow the cradle to get it copied. To be honest £1500 for a TTE charger kit is easy to assemble since it comes with everything needed but if you want to call it your own and save £1000 then start pricing up the parts and build it yourself. If you want the DIY list you can download the files from Clicky to my G Drive I have the entire TTE list and set up guide but this is the way i decided to follow. I have the parts ready to go just need to get the car's brakes under control before i start bolting bits to the engine.

Hello. Well it's time to rip my brakes apart (again) and replace the pistons+slide pins but i have a small problem... When i attempted to replace the discs and pads i rounded off the brake caliper carrier bolts (17mm) and also the brake line nut (Attached to the caliper) I'm about to buy the slider kit and piston+seal kits with new discs but before i use my ultra nifty round bolt remover tool i need to be sure i have the bolts ready to replace them otherwise i'm a little bit stuck. So my question is does anyone have a list for the size of bolts i need to buy to replace the two 17mm bolts that hold the carrier in place. Length, thread etc... Also the two bolts that hold the rear hub in place so i can order them ready. Bonus points to anyone that can link the parts needed. Thanks in advance James.

The OBDII port is located just right of the steering wheel above the peddles. You should feel the port with cover on/off right infront of your knee basically. It's not too old at all. But it will cost you £100 per read from most places so grab a cheap £10 reader to save yourself money and the hassle. Google is your best friend.

To be honest i have no idea about the tech specs etc... on the satnav. If the Satnav is not working you would need the ROM that came with the satnav. Lexus/Toyota will cost you an arm and a leg. If you can find the part number for the DVD/CD/ROM that came with the car i'm sure someone on here wont mind letting you use it for 5 minutes if you visit them and buy them a beer. You might even be able to find it online to download and burn yourself if you have a good Google around.

I dissconnect the battery and turn the keys to drain any power left in the car. Leave the car over night and the ECU will reset. My battery was flat one evening and the next morning everything was reset after removing the battery to charge it.

I saw this also and have been tempted. Once i get my car to the RR i'll give it a try and see what difference it makes. I thought it was the opposite of what Colin said tho. I thought it increased low down torque but suffered high end. I guess only one way to find out.

I put in £60 a week and get roughly 300 miles going back and forth from work (30 miles a day on hilly roads) If you drive it nice and gently it should be pretty good. Sat nav should be above the heaters in the center (Pop up type) if its got it. I have the exact same car as you just not sport and i paid alot more for mine! :( The grey is such a nice colour. Keep it clean and it should provide you with lots of comfort and enjoyment for a long time. EDIT: I drive pretty heavy and like to have fun so my fuel bill is pretty high. As the price of fuel is coming down and wages go up why not have some fun.

Sounds to me the way you drive and the ECU is learning how you drive. When you disconnect the battery it resets the "map" which is basically custom to the way you drive the car. When you reset the ECU it will default back to Toyota's "map" Reset the ECU once more and start driving gently is the only advice i can really give on this. Sorry.

I've had my battery off multiple times to charge it or reset the ECU. I've never once had to input any type of code. My tank gives me roughly 300 miles but i drive heavy. If i reset the ECU and drive like a women then i can push 400+ but with the fuel prices coming down and wages going up why not have some fun.

Well i've had the car up on stands today and apart from finding a nice rotten exhaust pipe everything seems just fine. I've removed everything from the boot and the knock still is there. I've wiggled... Ok yanked everything around and nothing seems to make any noise at all. I get cold, wet and fed up so i chucked the wheels back on and drove forward a few feet.... Yup the knock is still there. But this time when i heard the knock i pressed the clutch in and heard it again as the clutch disengaged... I might have a look at the universal joint and where it connects to the diff to see if there's any play with those. If not i honestly have no idea where the knock is coming from. I did solve the vibration under braking by swapping the discs over. I put a new set of drilled/grooved discs all round and its sooo smooth braking now its bliss. Tomorrow i'll be dropping the exhaust (Center box) as there's a nice big rusty hole on the joint that needs welding up.