James Trendall

Cheer's for the replies. I'm after sound and a less restrictive exhaust as i'm slowly sourcing the parts to supercharge my IS. I started to flirt with the idea of getting a second manifold and sliding a bit of pipe through the cat to create a decat pipe. I guess i could chuck it in for a free emissions test just to see how bad it would fail the mot. This was the back pressure should still remain as the pipe would go from a 2" to 1.5" back to 2" after the cat. I'll give this a try first and report back with the emissions test showing if it passed/failed and how good/bad it was. Just the manifold from a breakers is pretty cheap anyway. Thanks again for the replies guy's fingers crossed on the emissions.

"Also reset the ECU" I don't suppose that is done by unhooking the battery for 30+ minutes? My car was just starting to feel good the way i drive and the other day my battery was dead... Left the interior light on over night! Now it feels slower and slugish unless i really rev it high 5k+ whereas before 4k+ is when it felt like it had some ompf. With the decat do you know if it passes emissions? Looking at grabbing a second hand manifold and bashing the internals out to keep it somewhat road legal/mot passable to the naked eye.

As the titles suggests. I'd like to either run a sports cat or decat the entire exhaust on my IS200 (52 plate) To be honest i really don't want to be messing around each year swapping the decat and original exhaust over. What would be the better option? £150+ on getting a sports cat manifold? £0+ Elbow grease bashing out the cat's internals? Would the O2 sensor start throwing problems at me if i remove the internals of the cat? Would it develop a nasty raspy sound from the engine due to the flow bouncing around the now hollow cat? My exhaust is already nice and shiny from lots of grinding and polishing so no need for looks etc... Anyone ran their IS200 decat or bashed out the internals etc..? Also how likely will it fail on emissions without a cat? Would i be looking at a good service before hand or adding a more restrictive muffler at the end for the mot? Thanks in advance.

Best place to go is your local key cutter. They'll have a number for a mobile car locksmith programmer. I had a quote for my 52plate IS200 and they wanted £185 for an exact copy of my master key and all three buttons programmed. This was in Tesco and they're pretty **** tbh so most local cutters should give you a better price.

I cant give you any advice for the IS250 but in previous years on other cars i've had the same problem. It turned out to be the small wires being broken. Check the wires that goes through the glass/on the glass and see if any have been broke. Only way to fix it is to either get a small copper pen (Motherboard repairs) and bridge the broken bit over again or replace the rear glass. Have a search for "Copper Trace Repair Tape" this can help fix the broken parts if you have any.

Ideal. Thank you. I'll shoot him another PM on here and hope for a reply. Cheers for the help.

Yeah i tried to sign up to that site last night but it kept giving me a loop. Put in my details etc... Click register and it put me on to the "You cant access this page without signing in" no email, password/username wont work etc... thats why i looked around online to find otherplaces. I'll keep trying. Thanks again. Also i don't suppose you know anyone with a Cradle that could give me size, angles, etc...? I'm currently mocking up drawings to fabricate my own but it seems to be a pain unless i have everything on the car inplace already. Thank you once again for the help.

Hey so as the title suggests i currently have a warped disc front side passenger (NSF i think?) Well after checking the calipers and pistons i've come to the conclusion that the latest disc fitted by the previous owner is warped. As the piston dosnt stick i can only guess its from heat build up. On the front of my IS200 it appears to have two air flow funnels next to the fog lights, this air seems to go nowhere at all so i've thought about cutting small slots in the wheel well plastic to allow the air to pass through the holes next to the fog lights and on to the brake disc's with the intention of cooling them down. Has anyone else tried this? Are those air funnels for anything in particular? Any reason why the brakes would warp if the calipers are fine? It seems a pretty simple job so i've ordered a set of vented disc's (Drilled/grooved online as they're cheap enough) when fitting i'm thinking of doing this. If this is a first i'll update with pictures and if it actually helped at all.

Hey Shekie, I don't suppose you know if "plindblom.se/wp/?product=pl-black-box" is legit? I've tried to contact Mr P.Lindbom on various websites but he's not been online for a few years and it wont let me message him at all. I found that website and before i buy from there i just wanted to confirm this is correct.

Ok i understand now. I'll most likely lock the clutch like the TTE version and remove the 4pin wire. I'll try and get in touch with P.Lindblom and ask. Thank you. for the info once again. Once i've got the parts and start fitting i'll create a nice guide on how to SC an IS for less than £800 (Might be optimistic) sourcing the parts separately seems to be the cheapest option just not as easy as a pre-made TTE kit. Thanks once again for the help. I cant wait to get started on this project soon.

Yeah i got it. Thank you loads for that. I think i've got most of it but the cradle, intercooler, bypass valve. I've got a ton of clean steel tubes i could try to fabricate a cradle with. I don't suppose you know what the ECU connection is for? The M62 charger i have has a 4pin type connector attached i'm guessing that's to connect that to the ECU correct? Superchargers are completely alien to me so will be fun to learn as i go. This is the charger i have altho mine was free so that's £200 saved already.

This is perfect thank you. It should make building a kit cheaper if i can source the parts and Frankenstein it together a little. I'll send you a PM now. Thank you once again.

As the titles says. I'm looking for a complete list of parts from pipes, tubes, blower, cooler etc... I've managed to blag myself a supercharger from a 230. I've got just the supercharger on its own. What exactly would i need to fit this to my IS200? I understand i need a new pully to run the belt to the charger, Air pipes, Intercooler, I'm guessing an oil line, Could anyone give me a complete list of parts i'd need to fit the charger and what is needed to get it running (Unsure if i need an ECU or if it can be run just from the engine as standard with lower boost gains) I'm fabricating myself the cradle so no need for that. Each time i see any questions it's a simple reply "Get the TTE kit"... That's as helpful as telling someone to sell the car and get one already fitted. I'm not after MASSIVE gains **** i'd be happy with a round 160 if i get the nice whine sound to enjoy while driving. Just enough to increase my driving pleasure a little. So please if you can just give me a nice list of parts like 90* air pipe, 45* air pipe x2 etc.. and I'll be sure to buy you a pint if our paths ever cross. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the forum. Enjoy your new car.

I Googled "Lexus forums" and "Lexus owners club" this was the top result.

Im not 100% sure if this will help as its for an IS300 but here's the link. The seats have power to move them correct? But the heater part of it you need help wiring up correct? In the morning when i wash my car i'll take a quick look and take a picture for you if that would help.

I've bought myself some Simoniz Carnauba Speed Wax. I give the car a quick blast with the hose to remove loose dirt, Spray over with some snow foam and leave for 5 minutes, Rinse off with the hose once more, Scrub with warm soapy water top to bottom in a front to back motion, Rinse off once more, Spray the wheels with some nice strong cleaner and spray the engine with some strong de-greaser, Apply the wax on to wet bodywork again top to bottom front to back being liberal with it. Rinse off the wheels, engine, body, Wipe over the whole car with a soft mitt, Dry with leather. Open the doors and use the wet area to just clean off the inside of the doors and sills, My cleaning is now complete... Ok the outside is complete. I now use some trim gel on the plastic under the bonnet with a detailing brush (Soft round paint brush) and with my spare brush i use dash cleaner/shine inside making sure to get inbetween the gaps. After all of this i use a moist cloth with leather cleaner/restorer and wipe over the seats practicly removing the cracks in the leather. Last thing to do is add windex or shaving foam to the inside of the windows to stop any fogging up. Simply wipe on, wipe off and the entire car is complete for the week (Or 3 days if you live in the country. If you buy some cheap wax just be more liberal with it. Mine cost £4.99 from Tesco. All this takes roughly 2 hours once you get in to the swing of things. and done it once or twice before. I've got a few paint chips i'm getting repaired soon and the wheels getting resprayed after my holiday. Once complete the car should look fresh from the showroom once more.

May i ask roughly what you have insured? Age Car NCB Premium Excess I'm 28 with 1 NCB on an 2002 IS200SE. My Excess is £80 (Compulsary) and pay £450 a year. My lack of NCB is due to them expiring no crashes etc... Might be a bit of a personal question and by all means tell me to shove off. Just wondering if Adrian Flux could save me money next year or if the saving is enough i may just switch over for the £25 fee.

Had a closer look. It to me looks like the paint has just cracked. No way the lacquer should bubble right next to the marks (Unless it's been wet and hot for a while) If you're planning on spraying it yourself take the car to a paint shop and get the magic color matcher thingy they have to identify the color or damn near close to it. Could you contact the previous owner and ask them what color code they used to paint the car? As it's on the rear 1/4 you'll have alot of sanding back to smooth the paint in unless you paint the entire panel (Nightmare) Until you either catch how is doing it or get it repaired you should get something on the paint to protect it. Wash/dry and really dry then give a HUGE wax coating to that area just to try and stop further water getting in to the cracks causing rust underneath. Even a quick dust over of lacquer just to stop the paint from getting worse (This is only temp tho) Good luck anyway and i'm sorry i cant help anymore.

Grab some of those PH strips you can get for fish tanks and rub one against the lacquer peel (Make sure the area is bone dry first). If it shows anything at all i'd be cautious as it could be caused by some chemical and some A-hole. Are the big marks deep? Can you tell if its the paint cracking causing them or does it look like someone has actually taken something to the car and removed the strip of paint? The difference would be a key/knife would only damage the small strip where as the paint cracking would show lifting either sides of the paint mark. This will help eliminate one of the two options. Best thing you can ever buy is a 360* in car camera. Pretty cheap and i've seen some that broadcast to your phone so you can see in real time plus record. If you're short on cash you can setup your webcam if you have one as a CCTV camera and have it record over night to see any tit messing with your car. EDIT: Thats if you can park your car by a window. PS: If you decide to spray the car yourself tape the area off in a way where you would actually cover the area you wish to paint then bend the paper masking back out of your way. This will help stop a sharp edge when painting.

I feel that Bluesman has been taking hostage by our Robot overlords. Unfortunately the Is200 may have 2 extra cylinders but dosnt quite give the same power. If you're looking for more power with the looks of a Lexus try looking for a manual Toyota Altezza. Its the exact same car but with 4 cylinders and 200+bhp. That being said tho if you supercharge/turbo the Lexus you get a good 200+ bhp. I'm looking in to an Eaton M62 charger from a merc as they're pretty cheap i just need a cradle fabricated (Zip ties wont cut it lol) That being said tho yesterday my IS200 pulled like a train from 50 all the way to 120 very quickly and with ease. (Private road) Lexus has the luxury. If you really want a car that's RWD, luxury, high bhp, low maintenance then try looking in to an RX8. I've been looking and apart from engine problems if not looked after they seem to run nice with lots of power from a tiny tiny engine and BIG BIG turbo.

Cheers Chris for the reply. I managed to fix the braking problem. I've been out all day grinding away all the rust on the hubs and disc edge. To start with the disc would get stuck just over halfway after a few coats of rust remover gel and a damn good scrub with a wire brush the hub started to spin nice and freely. Just took it for a spin to burn off the excess polish on the disc and no more vibrations or wobble. Power Steering. The fluid is a very dark reddish colour and the bottle has some horrid looking gunge build up near the top. Looks to me as it will need a good clean/refill. Any idea on how i can drain the fluid and flush out any remaining crud built up inside? PS: If you want to grind down the rusty hubs i highly advise using a power drill and a brush attachment. It made my life 100x easier. Now its time to give them a coating in silver.

Looking very nice. Unsure if its the picture quality but it could do with a good claybar to remove all the little dimples and then get some decent wax and have a good workout for an hour or two. After a second look i think its the picture quality but either way the car looks amazing.