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Everything posted by johnatg

  1. In the interests of science, I've been out and played with my Techstream a bit - and surprised myself. Here are a few snaps of live engine data, concentrating on the oxygen sensors (upstream and downstream). The engine was cold when I started (see it says 5 deg C somewhere) and warmed up whilst I was taking the pics and working out what I wanted to show. Don't worry James - by the time you've got the Techstream connected and worked out what's what with the program the engine will be nicely warmed up if you connect the Techstream as soon as you get in the car and start the engine! Note that the upstream sensors read about 3.3v and the downstream ones show lambda about 1.000. Pay no attention to the numbers - I just chose the pics at random from the ones I took, then cropped and resized them. The numbers are just to differentiate them as I saved them.
  2. To an extent yes - It's a while since I've hooked up my Techstream - I think it's quite hard to get the actual voltages read because it kind of lags what the engine is doing dynamically. The Workshop manual never seems to refer to using Techstream - they do everything with the Intelligent Tester. But Lexus and Toyota dealers do use Techstream but I think only for setting equipment options and things like that. It's handy to drive with Techstream connected up, but for heaven's sake get someone else to read what the computer screen is saying whilst you're driving!
  3. The 'tester' referred to in the manual page is not Techstream - it's a hand held hardware device - known as an 'Intelligent Tester', which Lexus dealers have. You can buy them but they cost about £300 AIR. You can't do any of this testing with Techstream, but it does give you live engine data on fuel trims etc.
  4. Hmm...hard to diagnose anything from that - except that you are in USA? Do you have an annual emissions check - if so, what did that say? I think you need someone who can use an oscilloscope to diagnose where your misfire is and what is causing it. No point in trying to replace anything else or tackle the smell until that has been sorted out. It is just possible, although unlikely, that you have an internal engine problem - burned valve or broken piston ring so a compression test might be a good idea.
  5. The codes indicate engine misfires. That comes down to plugs, coils or wiring. Odd that they're associated with rotten eggs smell and indeed that is usually a cat problem. Possibly the cats have been damaged with excess fuel (ie unburnt fuel from the misfiring cylinder(s)) What petrol do you use? Not supermarket fuel, I hope. Try using Shell V-power. Was there some sort of fuelling event just before this all started?
  6. Here are two hopefully useful diagrams. One is the circuit diagram - you will find the two 15A fuses three quarters of the way across, next to the blue boxes representing the headlamps. The other is a location diagram, showing the location, in particular, of Engine Room no 2 R/B, within which the two fuses in question are located. HL.pdf 2018-01-14_165234.pdf
  7. The 30A fuse is a main feeder to loads of things. The two 15A fuses are individual to each low beam headlamp. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  8. Remove the left side inner wing cover - you'll find the type B fuse box under it. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  9. Doesn't your car also have the Type B fuse box - a large squarish one just behind the left side headlight? In there are two 15A fuses in positions 12 and 13 which also feed the headlights (the right side is no 12). I think you will find that has blown. See pages 274 and 308 in the Owners Manual (if the you have the same edition as mine)
  10. The box print says O2 Sensor - search on Google for 'Translate to Japanese' - first result is a box - you put the english (ie sensor) on the left and the japanese appears on the right - exactly the same as the box. You don't need to translate O2 - element symbols and numbers are the same in english and japanese! That doesn't mean it's genuine of course! I'm wondering - could these be downstream sensors, rather than upstream? Presumeably the screw fitting is the same - are the electrical plugs the same?
  11. There's a bit of faulty geometry on IS models at full lock - Ie the geometry isn't quite to Ackerman rules which mean the wheels should follow parallel arcs when the wheel is turned - or not quite in the case of IS. It only affects full lock (or near) positions and often the tyres iron it out. Sometimes you feel it as a single knock or a series of knocks as the tyre slips on the road. And it can depend on whether you were moving forward (or backward) when you were turning the steering wheel - you always should be moving as it greatly reduces stress and wear on the inner and outer track rod joints and the steering rack. Nothing to worry about.
  12. Yes the big oval things are the silencers. I'm not sure what Lexus use. There are two common methods - one is where the panels are simply bolted to the floor - the bolts screw into tapped holes or captive nuts. This is probably what Lexus use. The other method is where there are plain studs protruding from the floor and the panels are held to them with starlock washers. The panels have probably corroded around the fixing holes, so now you have big holes with rusty edges. You can usually effect a repair by using repair washers - they are about 3cm in diameter with a 6mm hole. That will cover the damage. Or you can make up a cross with perforated strip (perforstrip is one brand - accessory shops sell it or other brands) as big as required to extend beyond the damaged area. You may need new bolts and the repair washers as the holes in the perforated strip are quite big. You will probably need new starlock washers as they often break when you prise them off the studs.
  13. No - it won't make any difference - except that you'll be able to get underneath - warning - DO NOT RELY ON JUST THE JACK - USE AXLE STANDS OR SIMILAR. You may be able to work around the silencer, or you may need to remove the silencer.
  14. All the exhaust ends are round. The tips are just push-on stainless steel (note: not chrome) trims - and they are all the same (from 2005) if they haven't been removed or changed. BTW - those 'standard' rear silencers etc sections in the diagram are after market and quite cheap - far from standard. They may, or probably will not, be as quiet as original Lexus ones and almost certainly not as durable. But original ones cost an arm and a leg.
  15. If only life (and driving) was that simple.........
  16. The car hit the van - my point exactly. But I think the van driver wasn't completely free of blame - maybe he misjudged the speed of the car. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  17. Any or all of those might be a good idea - and or get the new sensors tested with an oscilloscope - after all, you've implied that you think the old sensors are past their best anyway.
  18. AFAIK the only way to test the O2 sensors properly is in situ with an oscilloscope. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  19. Your calculation of the difference in our lambda readings is not valid - there is a world of difference between 1.000 and 0.997. 1.000 indicates exactly stoichiometric combustion - 0.997 is right on the limits of spec but indicates a rich-ish mixture - ie too much fuel for the oxygen in the cylinders. (And your high-ish HC reading concurs). I know your error codes are showing too lean, but your lambda is showing too rich (if it's correct) That can be caused by a variety of things - eg blocked air filter, slight misfire - plug or coil, faulty temperature sensor (the one feeding the ecu is not the same as the one which drives your temperature gauge), etc. I think you need some tuning diagnosis rather than relying on error codes, because they are all over the place. Maybe try a mobile tuner with an oscilloscope - that can also show the actual output from the O2 sensors. Are you using Techstream to retrieve the codes, or a generic code reader? The emissions are not wildly out (and indeed are within MoT specs), so the problem is likely to be minor and intermittent at the moment. I can't explain the error codes reading as they apparently do, but they can sometimes be quite misleading.
  20. Your readings are within MoT limits but they do indicate an issue - and it could be any of lots of different things. Lambda represents the ratio of the amount of oxygen actually present in a combustion chamber compared to the amount that should have been present in order to obtain "perfect" combustion. Thus, when a mixture contains exactly the amount of oxygen required to burn the amount of fuel present, the ratio will be one to one (Ll) and lambda will equal 1.00. If the mixture contains too much oxygen for the amount of fuel (a lean mixture), lambda will be greater than 1.00. If a mixture contains too little oxygen for the amount of fuel (a rich mixture), lambda will be less than 1.00. The above is cribbed from an excellent article (lecture notes?} here: so rather than write my own essay I refer you to that!
  21. Sounds to me as if the van driver misjudged the speed of the car approaching and decided he had time to enter the roundabout ahead of it's arrival. After all, at roundabouts you should 'prepare to stop - be ready to go'. Roundabouts are not there as some sort of fun chicane to be negotiated as fast as possible - they are there to slow traffic to allow safe merging. Too many people treat them as the former, with the attitude - 'my right of way, |'m coming through'. The fact that the car was unable to stop when the van pulled out in front, but swerved and collided with the rear of the van rather indicates excessive speed to me. Van driver's mistake, car going too fast. 50/50. But I wasn't there, so who knows.
  22. Here's my print out. A bit of interpretation: Fast Idle test Engine RPM Allowable range 2500 - 3000 Actual 2823 CO Allowable 0.2% Actual 0.0% Hydrocarbons Allowable 200ppm Actual 5ppm Lambda Allowable 0.97 - 1.03 Actual 1.00 Natural Idle test Engine RPM Allowable range 450-1500 Actual 736 CO Allowable 0.3% Actual 0.0% My car is 2006, 63000 miles. Still with original spark plugs.
  23. That's sort of what I was getting at coming from a different direction. But I suspect a seizure - these belts almost never break. A sudden seizure may have broken it. Or a gradual one but then I would have expected noise. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  24. Did it stop when the belt broke? It should run - the belt doesn't drive anything vital to the engine running in the very short term. See if it runs with the belt removed. If it does, it points to one of the items driven by the belt having seized - aircon compressor, alternator, tensioner, idler pulley, water pump? Don't run for more than a few seconds without the belt on - no water circulation If it doesn't then you have another problem and we need diagnostic codes.
  25. Here's a self-explanatory drawing of how to release (and keep it released) belt tension. Simply use a ring spanner on the bolt you mention! Make a drawing of the routing before you remove the old belt.