Kev B

I'm surprised that there's only been a couple of posts on this thread so far! It does warrant discussion even though it may fall on deaf ears. I do believe that Katrina's was cut out and not fully removed but still failed the MOT: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/88280-lexus-is220d-check-vsc-p2002-dpf-removal-remap-mot-failure-so-avoid-like-the-plague/

Mines does not look anything like that, there's just a miniscule amount present but it is very common on almost all cars out there, petrol or diesel engined. The guy I bought my car from originally was meticulous when it came to washing, polishing and sprucing so that's probably why. You can wire brush most of it off and give it a bit of WD just to base coat it but once it gets hot the WD will evaporate. To keep them as rust free as possible would mean regular maintenance.

Well that's some good news! Do let us know how you get on with it.

As everyone else has suggested, they are very cheap. I replaced the complete set on my car around a week or so ago. The brand I used was called "Wot Nots" by Pearl Automotive. They pop in and back out very easily and are extremely durable compared to the crap that Lexus saw fit to use. I bet if we were to conduct a survey, we would no doubt find that there is not an IS220d owner out there that has all of the original grommets in place. If there is, I will take my hat off to him / her

Below are some links that you might want to take a look at when you have a free moment or two: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/84772-lexus-is220d-check-vsc-light-is-on-p2002-dpf-with-limp-mode/ https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-rules-for-mot-to-test-for-diesel-particulate-filter http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/78065-lexus-is-diesel-particulate-filter-dpf-problem-solution/

Good luck and keep us posted.

Hello there Katrina. The inevitable has happened, something we have been discussing since just yesterday. Assuming that the garage that carried out the removal and emulation told you that it will pass the MOT, your first port of call is to see what they have to say I guess. If they made no mention of it or it does not state it on their website or anywhere within their promotional literature you will probably be wasting your time contacting them. Utlise the next half hour or so on checking their site and any and all documentation that they gave you when you had the work done by them, that is what I would be doing right now..... I would be very interested to hear what other owners who have had theirs removed get on with this too. Did the examiner state the reasons for failing it on DPF removed or tampered with, how did he give that ruling? I am inclined to think that he probably noticed it first and then when he did the emissions test it must have been off the charts compared to cars with DPF's still present as they register hardly anything when the analyser is connected. Let us know what happens tomorrow, I really want to hear what the removal team have to say about it as most of them advertise their services as: DOES NOT AFFECT MOT OR EMISSIONS!

Responsive is an understatement! Since the moment I had it done, it drove and still drives like a completely different car even though it has been over a year and half since I had it done. Don't get the DPF removed as I noticed on the VOSSA site that it is now illegal and any DPF that looks like it has been tampered with is an automatic failure. Here you go: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/78065-lexus-is-diesel-particulate-filter-dpf-problem-solution/

LOL! Hi Garry. They removed the DPF, put it into a vat which had some patented fluid present and then they removed it from the vat and put it into another vat which also had a patented chemical in it that was produced by the same company. All in all, the DPF was left to saturate in the first vat for around 3 hours and only 5 minutes in the second one. Once the DPF was removed from the second vat it was left to drip dry for a couple of minutes and then reconnected to the car. That is the "Rejuvenation" stage. They then started the car and connected a lap top via the OBD port and let the car run in the car park for around 20 minutes. After around 5 minutes the exhaust started to chug out vapor which was dark in colour for around 7 minutes and then it cleared up completely. That is the "Forced Regeneration" stage. It was then taken for a spin at normal pace for around 21 miles and the lap top was still in use in order to conduct DATA TRIALS to monitor all systems. The chap told me that they usually do around 21 miles on the IS220d only as the CHECK VSC light can take around 7 miles to come back on so they clock 21 miles as an over kill measure.

There is no software or delete of tables available for the IS220d as the ECU is pathetic in comparison to most of the ECU's in other vehicles on the market. I have found and have been told by knowledgeable professionals that the problem with the DPF System on the IS220d lies within the Base Map for the Advanced Timing which is heavily retarded on the IS220d which, I have been told, coupled with such huge ratios on the Gear Box lead to the car not producing the right types of speed for the Self Regeneration Protocol to activate consistently. Add to this the fact that Soot can be removed by combustion at the time of a regeneration but partially still trapped within the DPF in the form of Ash which can not be removed, you are left with a ticking clock which is on borrowed time. I had some serious DPF problems some time back and luckily I have a highly inquisitive nature and firm understanding on most things that I start to look into so I managed to keep looking and finally found a solution which was "DPF Rejuvenation". It is a system that was invented in Japan and more or less wipes out the Ash content as well as completely obliterating the Soot contents present. Quite a lot of members on here have had it done and the quicker you have it done the better the result. I will check my history and post the link up in a minute or so.

The cold air on one side and hot air on the other side only has 2 possible scenarios which are the ones that I have listed for you already. They are both long winded but the Matrix is the longest out of the both of them depending on how you want to look at it. I will wait for your reply. By the way, if you really like what I had to say then please click on the "like this" at the bottom right hand side of my reply!

They will not cover you for the DPF or the EGR I don't think, you already stated that they will not cover you for faults already present at the time of the service or at the time of taking out the warranty. Maybe they don't want to show a good will gesture because they think that the stamps are fake and that you might have something to do with it. It's really hard to say and when warranty is involved, the industry always tries to wriggle out of honoring their side. I would personally find a independent specialist to take the car to and just forget about having the service from them as they have already told you that they are not going to help you, but, at the end of the day it's your decision to make.

I take it the information that you have provided is from an Android Phone with a ALDL Cable/Bluetooth Connector?

The door blend actuators on the Lexus are a bit of a mystery to me as I have never had any problems with mines so never looked into it. The best bet is to ring your local Lexus dealer, parts department and tell them that you need a door blend actuator for whichever side you have the problem on. They can provide you with schematics of what the part looks like and its location. That will probably be the best way to go forward for you if you don't mind getting dirty. Once you have checked the components to see if they are activating correctly, the next step would be to see if the heater matrix is clogged on one side, that's going to be a little more long winded.... If they are not activating correctly then you will know where the problem lies. Let me know how you get on with that please.

I agree with Prash, you should contact Lexus if the car is within the bracket, regardless of history. You don't get if you don't ask......

Sounds like a real nightmare! When they cancelled the warranty, did they refund you the fee? Also, how did they manage to get a garage to admit that the book had been stamped without having had work done? That sounds pretty strange to me to say the least. I think you should contact the garage that stamped the book yourself to hear what they have to say about it. Also, if you book your car in for a service with any main dealer, the majority of them, most of the time, hook up a computer to see if there are any codes pending, DTC's recorded or deleted and how many KM's/hours ago it/they were processed so they will always have "in house" notes on every vehicle regardless of them telling you about it or not. The 220d is a very sluggish car even when it's running right. P2002 is almost always DPF. I can't remember the exact code which relates to the EGR but it I do remember that it will have "A" Flow contained within the code description as opposed to "Below Efficiency" which is always with the P2002 code. Did the Dealer state why they think the EGR Valve is the problem? I personally think it's the DPF from what I have gathered so far.

To be honest with you, if it was me in your position, I would pay a trip down to the Trader because they are obligated by law to put it right... Good luck in whatever you decide to do.

Hi Kevin. Sorry to hear that you're having problems. Looks like you're on the right track now though thanks to other members. K Seal and other brands will probably not help in any way and the fact that the weather is going to get warmer means that you will no doubt have time to save some money to put aside for the Heater Matrix fix. Good luck and keep us posted.

Any updates on this? Very interested in knowing what the outcome was....

As far as I am aware the block is the same. You need too check the engine codes with a Main Dealer to be certain. I have seen a 2010 up close and it looked identical to mines.

Did you manage to give it a try? I don't think it is DPF related, the symptoms are very different to be honest with you. I would be interested in knowing if that particular additive did any good. You might be better off with an all rounder IMO as it will clean more internal components which might mean better results all round at the end of the day.

It sounds turbo related if it is only happening when the car is at around 3000 revs. Have you tried building up speed at a slower pace rather than foot to the metal to see if it will climb over 3000 revs that way? If it is only happening when you have the accelerator down hard then it may be a breather or air inlet issue which is restricting the turbo. I am also inclined to agree with Gaz, the following information would be very helpful: Is the engine management light on? Has a code reader been connected to the OBD port (under the steering column)?

How did you get on spybey? The P2002 is definitely the DPF code and not the EGR. When you reset the code it usually comes on by around 21 miles or so. It happened to me some time ago and i tried additives, I tried resting the fault code 3 seperate times by seperate garages using different gear, finally I got it sorted by a specialist in the West Midlands and it's been around 27,000 miles so far with no issues at all. They are called Car Surgeon Ltd 07853355415 DPF Rejuvenation / Regeneration Highly skilled specialists with so much knowledge with Jap Cars and DPF's in particular. The following 2 threads may be of interest to you: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/78065-lexus-is-diesel-particulate-filter-dpf-problem-solution/ IF YOU ARE THINKING OF REMOVAL AND EMULATION, THEN THINK AGAIN MATE, YOU ARE ASKING FOR TROUBLE: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-rules-for-mot-to-test-for-diesel-particulate-filter

I would be interested in hearing about this also as my IS220d was making a similar noise a few days ago and now its gone, I was thinking it might have been the Heater Matrix..... In regards to your heating on one side only koppatroppa2002, I would say that it's either the Heater Matrix which is blocked or the drivers door blend actuators that are in the closed position.

Good advise Dan. I forgot to mention that the Flywheel symptoms will prevalently be more of a judder in nature and not a squeel.