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About james250

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  1. Thanks, I ended up matching up pin numbers to the other end. Don't know what exactly this connector actually controls and what effect it might have had if it was wrong.
  2. Awesome thanks. I think I will just place my order with RockAuto seems to be the cheapest option.
  3. Yeah I think I will definitely replace the upstreams and the PCV just because they have done high mileage anyway. But I thought it would be nice to measure the resistance of the old ones and see if they are within the thresholds to see if they were actually faulty. That's the PCV valve I saw on rockauto too. How many miles have u done with the new PCV? does it need a new washer or anything?
  4. rockauto has 2 brands of the PCV valve, which brand did you end up getting? is it any good compared to genuine OEM?
  5. Thanks Normski, Great tips. I read somewhere that you can measure the resistance in ohms of the upstream sensors and apparently the ohm readings should be between certain amounts and if it's not it indicates the sensors are no good. Is there a way to get to the connectors of the upstream sensors easily without removing too much so that I can measure the resistance?
  6. LOL, I would not be surprised. I did buy a few sets of different brand chinese D4S bulbs and kept having issues with every set. Works for a good few months around 6 months or so then starts to flicker, eventually settled for Genuine Philips and they have so far lasted me 2 years without issues. So hence why I am a bit reluctant to by chinese replicas. Might work nicely for a while but don't want to have to replace it again very soon Yeap planning to do it myself.
  7. I messaged the US one because noticed the box had chinese writing to find out if they are genuine denso or chinese replcias and they replied saying they are replicas from china LOL. I think it's better to stick to genune DENSO dont you think?
  8. the rockauto website is really useful. I found the denso part number: 234-9051 as Newbie gave, and if you click on info about alternative OE numbers, in the link listed right at the bottom: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1606992&cc=1432808&jsn=384 the OEM number that lexus gave me is listed there so it seems this is the correct DENSO part.
  9. Awesome Normski, that's great pieces of information. seeing as my car is way over 100k and still on original upstream sensors, i'm guessing replacing them is a good thing anyway even if its not the cause of this error code? is it also worth replacing the pcv valve as it is a very cheap part anyway? where exactly is the pcv valve located? in regards to the error, seeing as system too lean on bank 2 error keeps coming up, if it was a air leak, should i be looking around the bank 2 area if the v? there isnt much there other than the inlet gaskets and a hose right behind the inlet manifold.
  10. Also noticed after clearing the code. After some driving the p0174 code comes back in the pending codes and stays pending and then eventually throws a stored code which then also seems to trigger a p0171. The p0174 seems to refer to bank 2. What exactly is bank 2?
  11. Thanks for replies guys. I did check the hoses and everything. Everything seems ok in terms of hose connections. There are the smaller hoses related to removing the manifold that just slot in and the spring clips that clip them on seem to just easily spin so not sure if it's worth replacing them. Lot of literature seems to point the P0174 code as a air leak more than a faulty O2 sensor. The only other thing I can think of is the gaskets of the manifold. I replaced these with brand new ones and also replaced the throttle body gasket with brand new one so not sure if there is any way to find out if any of these are the culprits? The car doesnt seem to hesitate when picking up or anything. I cannot seem to find where I placed my previous MOT's to compare the emissions reading will try and locate them. I cleared the codes and drove about another 600 miles and they came back. With my OBD tool, i use dash command which allows me to monitor live data, is there anything I can look out for to determine what is likely to be the cause? IS200 Newbie: I read your write-up when you changed your o2 sensors, you gave a denso part number which seems different to the part number lexus give. Is that Denso one same as OEM ones?
  12. I changed my spark plugs about a week ago. Done around 700 miles since and car seems to have been fine. But all of a sudden today during a long drive stuck in traffic the engine management light came on. Plugged in my diagnostic tool which has always been very reliable. I've got the following stored code and pending code: Stored Code: P0174 System too lean bank 2 Pending Code: P0171 System too lean bank 1 From doing my research it can be number of things from MAF Sensor, PCV hose, vacuum leak in intake or o2 sensors. My MAF sensor is rather new. Intake pipes I made sure were connected properly. So question is is it likely to be the o2 sensors? My car is about 10 years old and has the original o2 sensors from factory with about 130k miles. Is there a way to test them or should I replace certain o2 sensors?
  13. Thanks. I tightened to 25nm now. I just did the second part of the sparks which is the passenger side involving removing the inlet manifold. Last time Lexus changed the sparks it seems the left out the bolt right at the back and also broke a tab on the connector. I used cable tie to just keep it in place and prevent accidentally coming out. When I removed the inlet manifold there was a bit of old oil gunk which I cleaned up and replaced the gaskets. But most worryingly I noticed quite a it of oil gunk in the small recesses. It's almost like there a perfect recesses for oil to sit in. But question is where is this oil coming from. The inlet part of the v engine seems to be rather greasy and has oil residue. I don't have any oil under the car or anything. I've attached a pic of that side to show where I found oil. I cleaned most of it off before remembering to take a pic. Have I got a major leak to worry about?
  14. So I tried to prise open the prongs that are crimped together holding a bit of the broken gold wire. Unfortunately it proved impossible the prongs are very well crimped and trying too hard was risking the actual connector snapping. So instead what I did was exposed a bit more gold wire on each cable and then pushed it through the blue rubber and soldered the wire directly on top where the prongs come together. Attached is a picture. I've done a continuity test and all seems to be working fine.
  15. Attached is a photo of the crimp that the wire came out of, as you can probably see there is still gold strands of wire left on the upper section of the crimping point. So it seems that it was over crimped or maybe when the wire was spliced it could have had a score in it leading to it snapping. I find it hard to think that this can be a connector factory crimped, I am wondering if this was crimped by Lexus dealership during a carbon buildup engine rebuild. Usually when I crimp connectors like that I also put a dab of solder wire on it. So i will try and do that and see how it goes.