tameracingdriver

I think the OP has determined that the problem is coming from the dashboard and is due to the interior trim vibrating? My RX dash squeaked terribly at certain speeds - due to the plastic surround on the instrument cluster rubbing on the rest of the dash moulding. It was nothing to do with engine, suspension, tyres or anything else mechanical. Trim can get loose over time as heat/cold affects it. If it is anything more sinister than this, I would be amazed.

If there's 2 cables on the throttle body (aside from the cruise control) make sure you're not adjusting the preload on the gearbox...

I've driven lots of Automatics and never had a shift lock on N-D. The only time I ever had to use the footbrake was to shift out of P.

Where in Yorkshire are you? I have spare slide pins and am used to having to overhaul Lexus brakes! If you got a seal and piston kit I'd be happy to sort them for you.

Yes it is - you can retrofit the climate controls from a non-nav screen car. I did this on my GS430 for a while. The wiring was fun though! Pretty sure there was a guide on the net explaining how to bypass the amp.....

Try the Soarer Sanctuary too - http://www.smiffies-soarer-sanctuary.com/

Check the wiring on your speedo converter. *edit* - just seen the age of this post - Doh!

Another thing to bear in mind with the American stuff is that it's designed for LHD. Many of the manifolds that are imported by people wanting decats and such end up finding that it all fouls the steering column on their RHD car! Cheap turbo manifolds are indeed prone to cracking. I've even seen some of the expensive HKS manifolds crack though :( Paul at Whifbitz is very good and knows his stuff so you'll be alright in his capable hands :)

There's a lot of people that have done NA-T conversions on NA Supras on mkivsupra.net. You might want to try enquiring there Fitting a turbo on the NA 2JZGE is pretty straightforward but I would suggest you get a decent standalone ECU

Don't forget - in France they drive on the other side of the road

Euro car parts if you have one local. Otherwise you may find some on Ebay (as already mentioned above) for under £30 delivered.

I'd love to have been able to buy an IS200 for that sort of money. I'd be putiing a 1UZ into it and then add turbos! :) If you're buying an engine of the same type, you shouldn't need the ECU as well but most sellers lump it all together as a package (engine, loom and ECU). It's never a bad thing to have a spare ECU anyway if this were the case. If your car is manual, you'll need an ECU for a manual - if it is auto, you need the Auto ECU. Auto ECUs generally work on a manual with some wiring mods (although personally I'd still just use the suitable ECU to keep it straightforward) but the manual ECU will not work on an Auto.

DOT 3 but you may find it tells you on the brake fluid reservoir cap

I had a similar problem with an Audi A4 towbar. It turned out to be the towbar electrics themselves. If the car's lights work fine then I would suggest the weakest link is the towbar socket. Check the towbar plug earth (pin 3) Did you fit the electrics yourself? A lot of fitters use scotch lock fittings which are prone to failiure and when doing any vehicle electrics I always solder connections or use crimp on terminals. Anyway, here's a diagram to help with your diagnosis:

Not even Lexus pads will be supplied with shims. It's OK to leave the shims out - it won't affect your braking (certainly not on the rears either). Many vehicle manufacturers don't even use them. The shims are fitted to help prevent brake fade and noise. Just fit the pads normally using copper grease on the backing and sliding parts. Frustratingly though, I just gave away a set of rear shims!