SpOcK

Somebody? Anybody? :eerrrmm:

That's exactly what I'm about to do, and that's why I would need to know the thread.

Hiyall, My question is simple: Does anyone know what is the size and thread of the bolt at the front end of the Fuel Delivery Pipe (see red circle in the attached picture)? Cheers, Sami

Thanks Mat, I value your input! :) I'm not surprised there's no recorded / publicly available data on 1G-FE's cam timing, but maybe we can speculate on this on a generic level, then? My technician took an oscilloscope reading off of the cam, and there's a difference of an opinion whether it operates as it should. Spark and fuel control have been taken away from the command of the std ecu, and are now being controlled by the after market ecu. Therefore inlet manifold length and cam timing are the only things still controlled by the std ecu. Now it seems that @ idle the cam is retarded, advancing towards the middle-range, only to be retarded again to "idle setting" nearer to the rev limiter. One opinion is that, that's what it's supposed to do, while the other opinion is that the inlet cam should be advancing all the way towards the rev limiter, b/c in higher revs the inertia of the air being inputted/forced into the cylinder overcomes the force of a piston heading towards the TDC. Am I onto something here, or am I totally lost...? Any insight would be helpful! Cheers, Sami

Thank you SparkyStav for your reply/PM, I really appreciate it! :) This will really help me with the mapping. Mine is 1G-FE, while Stav's is 1G-GTE (right?). What I'm trying to accomplish here, is to boost the std engine (upgraded internals, though) and have a mappable stand-alone ECU, but to still maintain the original ECU's OBD-II functionality, as required by Finnish legislation. My second question still remains unanswered, though. Anyone in the know of how std engine operates the inlet valves/cam? Anyone ever scoped this? In my case the inlet cam seems to be retarded at idle, then advancing under load, just to retard again a little before rev limit (~5000 rpm). Is this right? Shouldn't it be advancing all the way until the rev limit? BR, Sami

If the clutch was slipping, IMO the revs would then rise, not fall... Right? :winky:

Hiya, I have basically two questions (and a few 'sub-questions' ). 1. Does anyone know what exactly is the map signal clamping voltage of the 'black box' ecu included in the TTE S/C kit? Additionally: - Does anyone have circuit diagram of such device and also the exact ecu pins is should be connected to? OR - Has anyone ever taken such a device apart, for to able to tell me what components it consists of? 2. Does anyone know the valve timing 'curve' or 'map' of a standard 1G-FE engine (degrees vs. load/rpm)? Any help would be highly appreciated, as these two issues seem to be the biggest hurdles on my twin-turbo project's way. EDIT: Sorry if this/these has/have been covered before, but I just spent almost three hours browsing this forum, but couldn't find the answer...

For those of you who may have some interest in my project's progression, here's an update. I have bot good and bad news (but the bad news are still sort of good... ;) ) First a little foreword, then I'll start with the bad news. The new bigger KKK K04 turbos I've had coming for already awhile now, finally arrived on Monday. In order to try saving some money, I asked the garage that has my car because of the new ecu being fitted and mapped, if I could come and fit the new turbos myself, and it was ok with them. So, I've now spent two days in their garage taking out the old ones and replacing them with the new turbos. Because these turbos are not designed for 1G-FE (but for Audi B5 RS4 2.7 L Bi-Turbo), for the water and oil cooling inlets and outlets to be positioned correctly, the turbos are installed "upside-down" in my car. And because of that, the "body" (the part between compressor and turbine housings) had to be rotated 180°, and the compressor housing a few degrees for the turbos to fit. Now the bad news are, that there were a few ruptures and leaks in the oil and water lines for the turbos, because of they've "aged" and become "crispy" due to those extreme temperature changes within the engine bay. There was also a plastic (white colored) T-junction used in the pressure line going from the boost controller solenoid to those two turbos, which had melted down to a brownish piece of goo. The other end of the "T" had melted shut, the other still had a little opening through it. That meaning the other turbo was only boosting against its wastegate actuator's spring tension, and thus seizing to boost @ 0.4 bar when the spring tension was over-powered, while the other turbo was boosting all the way up to 1.1 bar. Both turbos are run by three cylinders only, which means that while the boost between the turbos was asymmetrical, so was the back-pressure for the three first and the three last cylinders, and THAT meaning that the "filling" of the cylinder and the AFR between the cylinders was not constant, leading into heavy knocking when the car was floored. The good part of the bad news is, that now that these problems have been acknowledged and addressed, I may have been able to prevent a disastrous near-future from happening. The good news is, that now the old turbos are out and the new turbos are in. Everything else is also fixed, except one waterline, for which I didn't have a replacement and all the stores were already closed, but the garage will replace it for me. After that the car just has to be mapped (almost) from square one, as all the fuel adjustments and spark timings are for the old "asymmetric" turbo setup. After the car has been correctly re-mapped, I'm looking for figures starting with the digit "4"... Wish me luck, and I'll let you know when there's some more progress. Here are some pictures of the old and the new turbos. Guess which one is which...

Always nice to see someone else taking the (hard) turbo road. ;) As per my experience, I would advice doing the "internals" while you're at it, but if your budget won't allow that, I'd say you'd better stay under .4 bar to be on a safe side /w stock internals. Mine gave up @ .7 bar. The standard con rods are like matches compared to the forged H-profile rods I now have (which are rated 200 hp / each -> 6 x 200 = 1200hp). Std pistons will also crumble like cookies under (any higher) boost. I think that if you do a search for my posts, you'll find pics comparing std and after market rods. There's a difference... On the contrary to the many suggestions here, the "fuel line upgrade" is NOT one of the first things you should (must) do. Just upgrade the injectors, and be sure you have something to tell them what to do (i.e. after market ecu). It depends on your car's year model and/or where you live, whether you have to worry about things like emissions and/or the OBD-system (I did have to worry about those). But if you don't, the project will be much more easier (and cheaper)! But having owned and driven both supercharged and turbo'ed IS200, I'd say that you cannot even mention both on the same day. There's a world of difference... So, if money is not an issue, you'll know what to do. Of course there's also always the satisfaction factor of doing something that only few have done before. And because we all know there's no "off-the-shelf" option for turboing an IS200, you have to manufacture it urself - or have someone do it for you - instead, it's all the more satisfying when you get there! B)

Since I wanted (=had) to maintain the std ecu for the OBD-II system to still remain operational, the new ecu is not located in the engine bay, but in the glove compartment instead. So the ecu was dangling from its wiring in the front passenger's foot well, not in the engine bay.

Unfortunately, I do not have any good news. That day turned out NOT to be The Day... :tsktsk: I travelled for two hours by train to get to the garage to pick up my car. When I got there, there still were some unfinished stuff going on with the car. For example the ecu was not fastened at all, but it was dangling at the end of its wiring loom. It seems that there'd been some misunderstanding between the two mechanics. The other was in belief that the other had finished the installation, and vice versa, so neither had actually done it. The mechanic who was supposed to hand over the car insisted for us to go for a test drive before I got on my way. And I'm happy he did... The installation in itself was a-ok, but the mapping on the other hand was not. The car wouldn't start as easily as it normally should and it wouldn't idle normally until it had warmed up. When driving the car, it wouldn't pull as I remember it pulling with the old eManage ecu installed. They said they'd had to make some compromises with the mapping contrary to being able to go "all out" on the performance side of things, because of the upcoming emission tests. So that was ok with me. Lexus' electronic throttle body was also giving a hard time, and it still being controlled by the original ecu, it made the car to shut down when coming to a stop on a crossing after driving. Also driving the car to the rev limiter caused the original ecu to go to a "limp mode" and having the the CEL and TRC lights flashing wildly. So I decided not to accept the car yet, as it clearly was not finished, but told them to finish the adjustments before I come again and pick up the car. Hopefully they get it sorted as soon as possible, and I'll get my vehicle back at last...

Tomorrow is The Day...

Unfortunately the garage carrying out this ecu install is ~200 km away, so I haven't seen the car even myself yet. And since it's an ecu install, there's probably not so much 'visible' changes done. Everything looks still the same as in the pictures I have posted earlier (you can do a search of my old posts). But when I get the car back and the new turbos are installed, I'll post some more piccies. Cheers, Sami

Hello world! (no, I'm not a codeweaver, just happy... ;) ) Once again it's been too long since last time. A lot has happened almost in every other field in my life, except anything related to my car project, so maybe that's kept me away... Someone may still remember my somewhat long and rocky road with my project. I had my twin-turbo setup installed (I cannot even remember anymore, but maybe like) four years ago, then suffered from an engine failure (due to too much boost w/ std internals), had the engine rebuild (block bored, forged pistons, H-profile cams, the whole lot...), only to learn that I wasn't going to pass the (very strict Finnish) emission regulations and thus not getting my car MOT'd. Even that was like 2 years ago, so from there on I only drove when I 'had to', and tried to stay 'under the radar' and avoid police or other officials. Ever since I've been trying to figure out how to A) keep my turbo setup (there's never too much power, eh?) AND B ) meet the emission regulations AND C) maintain the OBD-II system (required in Finland) AND D) get the car through MOT AND E) have a fully mappable aftermarket ECU. Since there wasn't an off-the-shelf solution, it had to be made... My car has now been a good while in a garage who came up with a solution. And yesterday, I finally got good news... Almost all the work is now done (still something with the std rev-limiter and the CEL, but it'll be sorted out soon), and they managed to get the first dyno run w/ the new ECU. And the result? 310 hp / 378 Nm @ 1 bar. Not bad, I would say, since my car is/will be the first (and/or only) in the world to have the following (at least, as far I know..): - 1G-FE w/ twin-turbo setup and - pass the Euro3 emission regulations and - a working OBD-II system and - put out 300+ hp (hopefully 400+ hp in the near future, I have bigger turbos already on the way...) and - fully mappable ECU (developed and manufactured in Finland, meets and even exceeds specifications of many 'well-known brands'!) As soon as the garage is done and I have all the 'official stuff' cleared (emission tests, MOT, etc) and the turbos upgraded, I'll post more info and maybe a dyno sheet. Cheers, Sami

Anyone still have the TTE compressor kit homologation certificate on their hard drive? I did a search on tte.de and they do not have it anymore online. :( There's a slight chance that I could use that to get my car MOT'd (although this certificate is for supercharged engine, not turbo'd)...