Deet27

Had a similar situation myself, If i was not going to use the car for a few weeks i would lock the car with the key which would not activate the alarm. I only used the remote central locking when i locking for a few hours. Seemed to fix the battery drain issue I had.

Sold my 2003 2nd gen car last year which I Taxied for 4 years putting over 100k on it ( mileage when i sold it 230k), it has been the most comfortable and reliable car i have had and yes the fuel cost was higher but was a happy trade off on a older Diesel reliability/Problems. I had considered a GS450H as a replacement but when i test drove it the boot space and rear head space i felt was not very practical for my customers (Airport runs etc) I replaced the car with a 2nd gen Prius and has been a good working car. In all honesty i regret selling my Gs300 and have been looking to re buy one (As a second Car) with less mileage but have noticed that there is not much price difference between a 2nd gen and a early 3rd Gen. I've heard over the years on how great the 2nd Gen is and that people have regretted getting the 3rd Gen. I don't know how true that is but would great full of any opinions on anyone who have owned both. Regards Deet

That is a concern of mine, Currently I get two large and one/two cabin cases in at a push (although you do loose some space in the far corners with the boot hinges so they need to be flat) When I view the car I am going to bring some cases just to check for peace of mind, From what i can gather is that the cabin cases should be ok on the sides, its very rarely i get customers bringing 3 large cases.

Really appreciate the updates and further information, going to view a GS450H tomorrow and came back to the post to refresh myself. I was unaware that there had been new post as i was not getting notifications through my phone. Thanks Again

Thanks for the help, looks like i should see a slight improvement over the Gen2 GS300. (Well at least its not worse)

Apologies for the shameless bump, But would really appreciate some input. Basically was just wondering what kind of mpg I can expect from driving around town (I don't drive it like I stole it!) Also, if I buy from a private owner - is there any way I can test the battery without having to plug in a scanner?? Like I say - would be really grateful for some pointers.

Hi Everyone, Currently own 03 GS300 which I use as a Taxi (Mileage 225k), I am sticking with Toyota/Lexus and was considering getting a Prius or Hybrid (Would like to save on fuel costs) The amount of comments I get from customers of how Nice/Comfortable the car is you would not believe, and considering that the car is 15yrs old and I spend all day in the car I like the comfort too, So would like to stick with the GS. I currently get 22 MPG on my current car and considering most of my driving is city Stop/Start and Waiting on customers (Urban is listed as 17MPG) I am quite happy. I have seen lots of posts on what people get on motorways and commutes to work but was wondering what most of you get driving around town? Also, on test driving a GS450H is there anyway on testing the Hybrid/Battery without plugin in a scanner i.e. driving on EV mode if it has one Many Thanks

Cheers Again for you help Colin I got it sorted. Im not going to go into detail on how i got it sorted as it could make it very easy for someone to break into your car, safe to say that it is mentioned in the link above. What had happened to me was the Actuator Arm had come off and thus operating the Remote central locking or unlocking by the door switch was not working the lock mechanism on the door lock. One bit of advise I would give anyone in this situation is:- Remove the lock and exterior handle on the good door. Put the lock back in. You will see through the Opening where the exterior Handle was and should be able to work out what to do.

Thanks for finding that, was looking at the other door to work out the way to go but it looked like you had to get to the actuator. Think i might remove the good door handle to practice 1st, I was worred that I would have to cut into the door skin and then a door replacement which seems abit overkill. Will let you know how i got on.

Cheers Colin, I was able to get all but 1 of the screws out by removing the door seal but cannot get out the one at the rear with the door closed so cannot lift the door card up for access. Just unsure if i will have to cut the door card off or cut in through the exterior door handle?

Looking abit of help, Im unable to open my rear door. Both by the outside or inside handles. I can hear the actuator clicking when I use the remote but does not unlock. There are numerous posts about replacement of the lock actuator but the door needs to be open for that. How can I get the door open?

If you could have a look that would be great, Many Thanks Deet

Contacted the seller and he informed me the he has sold many of them and after you remove the ball joint it has cir clip that holds it in place. Would be very great full if anyone has any knowledge of this being done. Regards Deet

My car due for MOT next week and I have noticed that my Rear Upper Control Arm Ball joint has play in it. Checked a few motor factors and looks to be dealer only @£704+V After checking a few forums there seems to be a few posts about people replacing there IS(steel) control arms with GS(Alloy) ones as they are a straight replacement, Also there is a few posts about the ballpoints not being replaceable however Japeurocarparts sell a replacement Ball joint https://goo.gl/oZTWHQ Has anyone ever replaced the ball joint? or are there another options? Many Thanks Deet

Got it sorted But dont know what it was that fixed it. This is what I did today. Any connectors I checked were clean and had no corrosion. Removed the EFI relay and tested for operation. Check the Crankshaft position sensor and was withing spec, Tried to check the camshaft position sensor but could not get the plug off so Started to take the inlet manifold off for access, just gave up and put it back on. As I got it to fire yesterday with Easy Start I wanted try again with the wife starting car and me spraying (in bursts) Easy Start in to see I could get the car to tick over/run for a few seconds. Reconnected battery, reset immobiliser, opened the throttle body butterfly, sprayed in easy start and it fired up again ran for a sec then died. (did this a few times same result). I could not get it to run any longer as every time wife touched accelerator pedal it would bog down and die(No flow pass the MAF sensor possibly as i had the inlet pipe disconnected?) I could hear the fuel pump priming but decided to connect a 12v supply to the pump (it ran continually for the time I had it connected 10 secs or so) sprayed easy start and fired ran for a sec cut out. Reconnected the wiring for the fuel pump, Sprayed easy start into throttle body, reconnected inlet pipe and it fired and ran fine for a few mins. Car has ran fine all day, multiple starts covered 100 miles no issues, baffled on what the cause was, one of the connectors that was unplugged and reconnected? still think it was a fuel issue as car started with Easy start. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the Reply, The Immobiliser light is going off after i have reset after battery disconnect No error codes as i have had to recharge my battery after a few attempts at starting. but I have checked if any error codes are there before i have removed battery. is there anyway of testing them?

Hi all, just a quick update, Got the Battery Load tested yesterday and was told although a bit weak my problem would not be the battery. Checked the resistance of the fuel pump which was in spec, Took the fuel pump out and checked for fluid flow. (shot out a good 2ft, Not able to check Pressure) checked power to pump is good and you can hear it prime after a failed start attempt. Checked Timing Belt and timing marks all good Checked resistances of Throttle Position Sensor and Throttle Control Motor and both withing spec. I did get it to start and run for a sec or two using Easy Start so fairly confident its a fuelling issue. Really stuck on this one any input would be appreciated. Many Thanks

Hi all looking some help, 2 days ago went to start the car, it seemed to fire once and died. Tried to start again and is just cranking. I’ve had the car 3 yrs now and this has happened a few times but for different reasons. (Like to give as much info as possible sorry if not relivent) 1st time I drained battery as just bought car and sat with alarm on for a month, charged battery up and had to reset the immobiliser. 2 &3rd time did an oil change and car would not start the following day. (On both occasions I was low on fuel and assumed that was an idiot for getting so low) but after putting fuel in engine started fine. now this time, I stupidly let battery run flat last week after leaving the interior light on. After a charge overnight car has been been fine but after not using car for a few days (I don’t use alarm, just lock with the key) I went to start car (-1°c) fired once and died. Cranked a 2 to 3times and battery was discharged, charged overnight and again after resetting immobiliser (20 mins ignition on) cranked 2 to 3 times battery dead. Charged overnight again and with another car boosting still wouldr not start and died after 2 to 3 try. Confident my battery needs replaced so I’m replacing tomorrow. The battery I have is a Bosch S4 027 (70Ah 630a). My local motorfactors replacement is a 68AH 540a 030 will that do? I’ve previously thought my fuel pump was on it’s way out and if it is what options do I have?. I know I can order from rockauto for £50 ish but it will take 2 weeks and I really need a replacement quicker than that, are there anyother cars that are suitable? Many thanks

Hi all need to replace both Front Lower Ball joints on my 03 Lexus GS300 and will be ordering from Rockauto which i have done plenty of times before(Denso Parts etc). I live in the UK and am unsure of which Make/Manufacture of suspension parts are good. Prices are for the pair delivered to the UK. Ultra-Power £32/$42 (Warehouse clearout) Daily Driver Mevotech £57/$75 Beck/Arnley £60/$79 Acdelco £74/$97 Premium MAS £56/$74 Moog £60/$79 Obviously I would like to buy the cheapest but dont know which ones to avoid, confused on why the Premiums are cheaper than the daily driver. Any advise would be appreciated.Many thanks

Looking a bit of Feedback/Advice, Cracked one of my aftermarket alloys the other day and looking to get a set of OEM. My understanding is that the MK2 GS300 originally came with:- 225/55/r16 (16x7.5J) or 235/45/r17 (17x8J) with offset ET45 Mine are 245/45/R18 (18x8.5J) My preference would be to replace with Mk3 IS250 standard alloys as they were fitted originally with 225/45/R17 or 235/45/R17 (17x8J ET45) and should be a fairly straight swap I have managed to find a set of MK3 GS300 225/50/R17 and the wheel is 17x7.5J ET45? I have 3 concerns about these alloys that I would be really grateful for any advice. Has anyone ever fitted these? Do they look ok? My intention would be eventually to replace the tyres with 235/45/R17 and with the 7.5J would the tyre look proportionate? Many Thanks

Changing the Transmission Oil Filter on my 03 GS300, The gearbox is starting to whine when in Drive and Reverse (sounds like a Power Steering Pump that is struggling like on full lock) gets quieter when gearbox oil warms up. Think the Filter might be restricted, nothing to loose by changing filter as car has done 185K Miles. (Drain and fills done at 136k,160k and 180k). Car shifts through gears fine. Went to Lexus and was quoted £95 for a filter and the parts guy was unable to find a gasket for the Pan, I've order a Filter and a Rubber Gasket from Rockauto £22 Delivered https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=478553&cc=1416596&jsn=9 I was checking the service manual for Torque settings for the pan and noticed that Lexus uses a Tube of Red Silicone to seal the pan. Part no 08826-00090 (replaced by 00295-01281) @£32 Delivered from USA How important is it that I use the Toyota Sealant or will the rubber Gasket be adequate?

From what i can recall no throttle, don't usually touch the throttle when starting. It was behaving it was like the immobiliser had kicked in. (I did not disconnect battery) Fuel filter has not been changed since I have had the car 136k to 183k Miles, on My to do list. When it started it spluttered for 10 secs or so then ran correctly, done 10k miles since and not had any issues or no starts since. The only thing that I have noticed is on the very rare occasion (5-6 times over 3 months ) when I have come to a full stop in drive the idle seem to be low like it was about to stall (450rpm ish) put it into neutral and revs pick up to 600 ish tap the throttle and it revs fine.

Strange one this is, a few months ago I did an Engine Oil and Filter change as I have done many times before. Run Car to warm oil, Drain oil, Change Filter, refill with oil, run car and recheck/Top up The following morning started car it fired and died immediately, worried it was Timing Belt I checked it and was fine. Looked around the engine bay to see if i had dislodged a pipe or connector after doing the oil change and all seemed fine. Wanted to check the fuel pump but could not get the seat up. The engine was spinning at a good speed but not firing only tried for 5-10sec I was low on fuel as the light had only just come on but was sure I was not empty. Put two cans of petrol in the tank (10ltrs ) and after a few splutters fired and started. Come to the conclusion that I am an idiot for running out of fuel This morning same happened again, Started car, Fired once and died. Tried starting again just turning over not firing. Im not a person to keep cranking over the car when there is obviously something wrong. Used the wifes car as did not have the time to start mucking abut with the Lexus. About ¼ tank of fuel and I did a oil & Filter change yesterday. Got 5ltrs of fuel as the Fuel gauge might be wrong, again checked all around the engine and Timing Belt all good, Put the fuel in and after 5-10sec of cranking started to splutter and started. I find it odd that this has happened both after doing an oil change. My Gut feeling is that it might be the signs of the Fuel pump starting to go, does that seem likely signs/behaviour? Its difficult to know as when you switch the ignition on the Brake Booster will prime twice so you cannot hear the fuel pump priming Regards Dietmar

Seen a quite a few old forum messages about using Transmission Oil Type i-v but the service manual states Power steering Fluid Dextron 2 or 3. Both the Forum messages and the service manual are over 10 years old. What type of Power Steering fluid should I use?

Think your right, I recall reading myself that very expensive adding a Tow Bar to 2nd Gen GS300 for towing due to having to add an Transmission Cooler. Im not looking to Tow a big trailer or caravan just something like a tow bar Box (think it is only able to hold 50Kg) Just looking a little more storage http://www.handiworld.com/handioffers/handiholdall-handirack-handiduffel-orange2.html or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thule-EasyBase-Carrier-Base-Bar-Mounted/dp/B001N3L47Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464644619&sr=8-2&keywords=towbar+box