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About jackcramerr

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  • Lexus Model
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. Keeping an eye on it now. After 245 miles the dip stick was half way. Poured in about 0.6 liters of oil to bring it back up. 10w40 top up. Is this normal? Will report again next week.
  2. Never thought it will happen to Lexus. I noticed bubbling of the bonnet edges. Any way to stop it getting worse?
  3. Are the wheels refurb? I have been thinking of refurbing mine but not sure what the outcome will be. And if I do them I will put kerb protrctors on them. I see you have never kerbed yours. Those wheel kerb very easily. I am not a fan of painting calipers. Factory are powder coated and unless the coat is sanded well out, no paint sticks to it.
  4. I think I figured it out. Energizer phone charger. I think the sound come from speakers. Have to confirm. Couldn't remove it from the cig socket... Need to dis assemble it and understand how to remove it else I have to break this thing.
  5. Does it at 2k rpm or over. Does it in nutral and gear. I dont have a second person to rev it while I peak under the bonnet yet but will report. Thanks for the guidance
  6. I noticed a high pitch whistle sound since few days. Sounds exactly how a turbo spool sounds. Or when you have bad ground to speaker. You can only hear it when acclerating. Very faint to record it. Any ideas guys? It is very annyoing knowing there isn't a turbo in there and somthing isnot right. thanks.
  7. The biggest problem at the moment is not topping up but is possible mot fail. I always wonder how the cars on the road that produce cloud of smoke pass mot...
  8. Thanks John. I do not feel loss in power. I will re-do compression test. Maybe the values changed now but last year it were to spec. It sometimes takes longer to start the car but that's the only thing I have noticed. You can do seals without head removal. To hold the valve up, either fill the chamber with air or use rope. So you feed the rope in as much as you can, then bring the piston up to force hold the rope aginst the valve. Seen a few vidoes of it now.
  9. I replaced the PCV last year because of oil consumption. The original one was perfectly fine as well. It did not make any difference. The reason I also changed PCV was if engine is running, and I remove the cap for oil fill hole, air blows out of it. So I thought it might PCV. It did not help. If you check is250, when car is started and remove the oil fill cap, you will notice suction instead of air blowing out.
  10. It's a 2006 2.0 petrol. There used to be mazda 3 forums uk version but I did not find people friendly or knowledgable. I might try mazda US forums. I am not very convinced that consuming oil is a normal thing. No smoke can be due to Cat converter blocking it, right? The car failed CO emissions once and barely passed the second time. If oil consumption is not related to it then I can sleep over it but if it is, it will go worse. As for valve guide seal, I think I have to remove side cover and remove the chain. Big job. So first need to learn how the timing adjustment is done. Also brings the question if it is indeed the seals or something else.
  11. Mazda 3. They tend to take ford engine. Very unreliable car.
  12. The car is consuming oil. Lots of it but no smoke. Last year did a compression test and results were ok but I am going to perform it again. In case it is a pass, is it safe to say it will be valve seals? How can I confirm it? And for valve seals, I saw vidoes that does not require head to be removed. Having no experience, do I have to remove the cams completely? I think answer is yes, generally speaking, what will that entail? What bolts will need to be undone and what will I need to replace? Will I need to remove the timing chain as well?
  13. I could see 4 houses coming out. One thin, might be for the reserviour, one medium which might be for heater and two same size large ones with one going on top of rad and other maybe bottom? The top is warmer to touch than lower one. The top one seems as warm as the one that goes to the reserviour. The lower one seemed to be cooler than top one. This was after 4 mile journey with needle lowe than 2/4 of the middle point. So engine never gets to operating temp with my daily millage. I used paddle shifts today.
  14. Weather is warmer now but I can safely say, 4 miles drive today made the needle be 3/4 to from the middle. So it never gets warm from my local short journey. So long as I am not damaging the engine with it running cold, I can ignore it. Is it ok to do so? The other car I had similar issue with but it was worse because driving that car at 70 in winters made the needle go well below the middle. I changed thermostate for that car and now it warms up within 2 miles. Actually warms up soon as I come across the first brae to work. Lexus is cold as a cucumber on the same brae. Even though with this car, the thermostate looked fine when I removed it. It was maybe opening earlier. In initial days, I saw the same behaviour as Lexus, it wasn't getting warm fast enough. Is there any good way to check the thermostate without taking it out?
  15. Hi Noticed since a while that is250 takes much longer than any other car to come up to operating temperature. Is that normal? It gets there after 15-30 mins of driving. 50k miles. Is it time for new thermal valve?