mcwatson

Hi, Just thought I'd update on what the issue was with my car that I raised an issue on back in March. It turned out to be a blocked catalytic converter!! Got it replaced with a new one and the car is back to it's normal self! All symptoms have gone and I'm delighted as not only was it awful to drive but the cost of a new cat isn't a cheap 'guess' to hope that was the problem. All the best to everyone!

Hi, A long time since I've posted on here but was hoping to seek some advice from those with more knowledge than me under the bonnet! I have a Lexus IS200 Sport, 51 plate and just clicked over 162k miles. Had the care from day 1 (over 10 years) and have loved every minute. Apart from normal wear and tear items, have only ever had to have the clutch replaced. Car is serviced every 10k miles without fail, by main dealer up to 100k miles, then local garages since. Cam belt was changed on 85k miles. I now have a problem where it seems to have lost some power. Approx 5 weeks ago, noticed it didn't accelerate properly, thought it may just go away but hasn't. The symptoms are as follows:- Have to be in a low gear to get any decent speed up a hill. On the motorway, absolutely gutless and acceleration sometimes dips when I put the foot to the floor. Almost like it goes into limp mode or you know when you put the AC on and the power dips. Fuel consumption has worsened. Used to get approx. 380 miles out of tank, now lucky to get 330. Had a recent problem where the radiator has had a very slight leak and has been hungry on coolant. Ran a tin of rad weld through it, overheating has stopped although still drinks coolant. I've tried to find a local person who can plug into the car but everyone says no to a lexus. They recommend going to a main dealer. I spoke to them but they said if there is no engine light on, there is no problem. I've tried disconnecting the battery for a period of time to reset the ECU. A friend has said it's likely to be a sensor but we're not sure how to diagnose that. Does anyone have any advice?

I'll check but i think all is clear. When the window was smashed from a theft during 2008, I had the same problem when the window was replaced and the autoglass tech said he had to look on the net to find some kind of reset option for the window. He found out and sorted it. However, the current tech's there don't and suggested the dealer might have to sort out. I'll do some googling and see what it comes up with.

Thanks Nigel..... The locksmiths I went into indicated he had no problem with doing the cut so will wait to receive fob from Ebay and then take it in and see what happens. If he backs off from doing it, I'll go down your suggestion as £31 is much better than going via the dealer. I was told by them they have to get them sent in from Germany!

Over recent weeks, my drivers side door window on my Is200 Sport 51 plate had been coming out of line when shutting the window. It goes down okay but when it tries to shut, the window comes slightly out of its door frame runner as it goes up and it leaves a gap at the side of the window when fully shut. Went into Autoglass last night as I guessed they would be the quickest at getting the door panel off and they found that of the four bolts that hold the window mechanism to the actual door frame, one had worked its way undone entirely and was sitting at the bottom of the door panel and two others were loose. He tightened them all up and the window goes up okay now. However, when using the Auto close button, the windows gets to the top and then goes back down like they do if they hit an obstruction half way up, they go back down for safety. Autoglass didn't know how to resolve this but I was just thankful the window closed in its runners and left. I can close the window fully using the manual lifting the button but the auto function won't close it without it opening again. Any ideas of how to resolve?

Thanks guys. I've done exactly as suggested and ordered a key fob from ebay yesterday. Before I did that, I went into a local locksmiths who suggested the same and said when I get the keyfob through, take it in and he'll cut the blade for me. Just gotta get a new battery now and when the keyfob has been delivered, all should be well. What I have noticed however is that since the keyfob has been playing up, I've tried locking the car with the actual key. Unfortunately nothing happens, the key just turns (both ways) but the car doesn't lock. I haven't used the key to open the car for what must be months if not a couple of years so not sure how long this has been like this! Any ideas?

Hi, I have an IS200 Sport on a 51 plate and had it since new. I had two keys when I got it and the first deteriated to the point that the casing snapped leaving the metal key part detached from the main fob part. The second key has started to do the same and it's now being temperamental in unlocking the car. Just spoke to a main dealer and it's £160 if they need to order a key and reprogram it or £80 if they get me a key and swap the insides out. Either way, it still feels a lot when I have the original unit. Any alternatives to getting a new key that anyone knows about?

I've been in touch with JEM. I hadn't heard of them before this post! I've a 51 plate IS200 Sport which needs 90k service and I've asked for cambelt (timing belt) change and gearbox oil change. I've been quoted £129.99 for service, £249.99 for belt change, £66.18 for belt tensioner, £56.42 for timing belt idler pulley (if required) and £80 for gearbox oil change. Does this sound acceptable as I have no idea? Timing belt seems alot more than the other post quoting £177 at Toyota!

My car is an IS200 Sport 51 plate and just knocking on the door of 90k miles. I've had it from new (month short of 6 years) and have loved the car all the way through. Was recently thinking of changing it but instead spent some time and cash giving it some TLC and sorting a few problems. Last week, had new tyres all round, full geometry by the Doctor and new brake discs and pads. Been thoroughly cleaned inside and out and its almost like brand new. There are just a couple more things I need to do to complete the job and thats where my questions come in!! 1) I think my fuel consumption has deteriated a bit so wanted to know if there is such a thing as an engine tune up possible on these cars or are engines of today only able to be plugged into a computer. Or do they adjust themselves for optimal running. If a computer is required, is it only a main dealer than can ensure the engine is running well? If not, where else? 2) Now I've had my geometry done, everything now feels solid except for the gearbox. Its starting to feel a little clunky but would expect this after 90k miles. Its not in need of replacement (I hope) but wanted to know if a change of the gearbox oil would make a difference and make the changing of gear more fluid and solid? As the car is now 6 years old and 90k miles, I'm probably going to use a local mechanic as opposed to dealer for service as just can't justify the costs!! Looking forward to hearing anyone's answers to my questions!!

I tend to read more than I post but just wanted to say online that I visited Tony on Friday and I'm back to my happy driving experience! I visited Tony having been frustrated with how quick my back tyres went down to slicks but also because my Is200 Sport had been driving terribly. If the car wasn't all over the road, it was making horrible clunking noises when I came to a stop and the steering wheel would be leaping around the cabin whilst braking. It was as if the whole braking or suspension was moving! But the main problem was the feel and handling! Booked in last Friday and spent the morning with Tony getting it all sorted. Upon inspection, my back tyres were confirmed as almost slicks and the fronts were confirmed as illegal but only because of uneven tyre wear so my checking had not been sufficient at just looking at the 'bits I could see'. It was also observed that my front brake discs had warped. This was as a result of trying to go cheap and use re-branded ebay purchased items and getting a mate to fit them! I wondered why it was so cheap!! Finally, Tony checked all the components that would normally be guilty for causing the clunking. Tony confirmed that everything was in order (I was disappointed as whilst I didn't want bits replaced un-necessarily, I wanted it identified as to what caused the clunking). Brand new Goodyear F1's replaced all round, brake discs and pads ordered for delivery asap and Tony got onto the geometry. Despite Tony explaining everything as he went along, I couldn't write it as I'm too dumb on this stuff so I'll just say that Tony had to make several adjustments and it suggested why my tyres were wearing out so quickly. An hour later, geometry all done and shortly after, the brake discs were delivered. These were fitted and whilst doing so, one of Tony's colleagues informed me that they had identified the cause of clunking and it was something fitted upside down or in the wrong place in a previous fitting. Not sure of the exact terms but I understand there is a mechanical sensor that provides an audiable squeal when pads are getting low! Whatever it was, the clunking is no more. All paid for and I thanked Tony for his work! The best bit was too come! The drive home! With new tyres on, it being wet and whatever, chose the M25 for a steady drive as opposed to country lanes and the solid steering wheel, silent braking and no more clunking has bought back the super driving experience I've always known in the 6 years since the car was brought new! I've now been out over the weekend and the driving is fantastic. I've still got my fingers crossed that the clunking doesn't return but so far so good and Tony's work has made me keep the car going forward! Recommended!!

Mr Wim, do you cover anything to do with the front suspension? If so, I may need to book my car in with you along with having the geometry done. I ask as my Is200 Sport has had a very annoying clunking / grinding noise coming from the front when I'm doing low speeds (under 15mph) and coming to a stop whether going straight or having the wheel turned. Its almost that if I have the weight of the car more to the front (ie. going forwards), it makes a horrible clunking noise. Its very irritating and I have no knowledge under the bonnet to know whats causing it but I'd love to get rid of it and get a nice solid driving experience back! Its best demonstrated when I'm turning into a parking space and coming to a stop. Let me know, Mark.

I recently went over to SKY Broadband after doing loads of research but it was only based on people's views, not my own experiences. Been on SKY 16Meg for about 3 months and so far all been okay. Don't get the full 16Meg but then who does unless you want to pay mental price for dedicated service. I've noticed that you realise higher speeds when downloading big content. For example, downloading email seems to take a few seconds to get going but when using P2P, then it will come down at 9 or 10 Meg. For the price and bundled package, I think its worth it. Not had to deal with their customer service yet!!

Beef

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Finally got chance to get under the car at the weekend (had a 60k service done but not by a dealer). Tried the advice given and unclipped the sensor on the fuel tank and reconnected. Turned the ignition on and all looked well. And then during the next journey, it went again. And now I find it worse than ever ie. it fails more and more and for longer and longer. Going to the dealers will be a last resort as I'm sure they will want lots of money.... maybe I can close my eyes (not when I'm driving obviously) and it will go away at some point. But if anyone else has any good ideas, please post them!