matt8

Definitely ask what process is. A smart repair is an isolated touch up. Any photos? As someone above mentioned, is it structurally compromised? A proper job is the removal of current finish and a full finish. I’d be demanding this especially if the wheels were mint before. Might as well do all 4 at that point. You don’t want to take advantage but you don’t want the car to look odd with one wheel shinier than the other. I also change tyres in pairs. Unless tyre was very new, they’ll now have different levels of wear on the same axle.

More than separate buses, the simple thing to do would have been to apply encryption to the bus. Maybe posted elsewhere in the thread but an interesting read: https://kentindell.github.io/2023/04/03/can-injection/

I was referring to the TPMS sensors rather than tyres. I’d happily buy a tyre from almost anywhere. But fitting is a different matter.

The dealer wants the car to break so they’ll buy a new one. Or to buy a new car soon, and to devalue the current car which will be used for part exchange, with “incomplete” service history.

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/118184-switching-speedometer-from-mph-to-kph/

Parked it on a flat surface. Headlights to OFF position. No auto. Press power button twice (no feet on pedals) to get to IGN ON. Check fuel level / to determine number of clicks. Press power button once to turn car off. Press power button twice (again no feet on pedals). Pull stalk toward you (full beams) and hold. Whilst holding, rotate headlight on switch to on (see video above from 2:45) and off 3 times. Once done, headlight levelling indicator on cluster will flash on and off. It’s expecting your further input. Then rotate lights to ON (dipped) and off the required number of times depending on fuel level. After that the cluster will be flashing like mad, a little haywire. Switch car off and done. Took a few goes. Watch the video and read instructions. You'll soon get it! My thought is that the headlight positioning may need adjusting after 12v disconnected. Last time I did this (new battery June 2020) it was on a slightly downward facing driveway. Hence my lights aiming lower. Just a thought. No technical knowledge to back this up mind.

I performed this method as shown in the video. It worked (I got the flashing response on the cluster) and my lights seem better. Could it be placebo? Maybe. I didn’t measure where the light was but it seemed better. Time will tell. Club Lexus has this same procedure noted on the forum, a PDF. I found that hard to follow. The mistake I was first making was pulling the full beams flash (the stalk) before turning IGN to ON. IGN to ON first, then pull the stalk. Thanks for posting. Next step might be new HID bulbs. They are over 10 years old now.

What year is your car?

Oh! Misreading the date! Glad it was a good outcome. Those bushings seem easy to fit in that video. Was it simply changing those, toe correction and done? How much labour were you charged at the garage for fitting the bushings? Which tyre tracking did you go for out of interest?

Great! Keep us posted on how it goes. What date are you booked in)

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/rac-news/how-the-rac-universal-spare-wheel-fixes-no-spare-breakdowns/ I had no idea these existed, good to know.

My understanding is, tyre shops hate this sealant. And the tyre is ruined if it’s repairable (I.e., a puncture). Can anyone confirm? Space saver makes sense but space is absolutely a concern. Would the recovery company not just tow you home or to a tyre shop, on the back of their truck? If a space saver is the way to go, will one fit either the front or back, with the differing tyre sizes?

Any recommended alignment companies in the Midlands?

How do you mean you removed the side padding? Any photos?

How much are wheel bearings parts, and typically how much labour time for fitting (per wheel)? Did you replace all 4?

There is a small sensor on the dashboard, that detects cabin temperature. As a first port of call, a little cleaning of that may help.

Updates as promised. Early this morning, I was having another look around and found the water coming off the blower motor. So, first step was to remove that. I took it out from the passenger footwell area. Just unplug one cable, and then 3 screws. There was not a lot of water in there, but it was definitely wet. With that off, I threw a large mixing bowl of water over the windscreen and it all ran off into the passenger archway (thanks @IS300FSPORT). I left it a while and no water was appearing in the passenger footwell with the motor off, even with this huge amount of water. Tissue in situ to try and catch where it was appearing from. So, it seems more likely to be water from the air conditioning system. Perhaps water was just slowly dripping out of the motor, hence the leak. I hope I have reseated the blower motor properly. It seems there is a black spongey seal around the edge and in one place that was glued down, but for most of it, it was loose. Maybe a new gasket can be purchased, if needed. I am keeping an eye on this. There is a short rubber hose attached to the blower motor mounting frame, and connecting to some plastic that runs behind the centre console. I assume this is the pipe that runs to the underside of the car, to let out any AC condensate. See photo below, can anyone concur? I pulled one side off and it was mostly dry, certainly not full of liquid at all. But as noted, my car is parked at an angle, sidewards, with the passenger side the lower point, so whatever water was in there may very well have drained into the blower motor and therefore the leak. If this is the condensate pipe (seems like it, this page has part 88539C or 88839 30010 at the top, and a Google shows me it is called the "cooler unit drain"), my efforts should be focused on how I can get this cleared. Perhaps poking and running through a long rigid something into this pipe will clear it, but who knows how long the pipe is. Any thoughts or advice appreciated. Maybe this is the best and easiest way for us DIYers to clear this out, as the pipe under the car is very difficult to get to, even if you have a ramp. Lots of garages with a backlog of work, so I am troubleshooting all I can till I can get someone to look at it.

Thank you Colin. The water seems to be dropping from further up toward the firewall, so it’s not looking like a seal. Will check the scuttle panel for water blockage. Once it collects there, do you know where the water drains?

Thanks! Where is this drain tube under the passenger arch, do you know?

Still more water leaking today. But I’ve not driven today and so the air con has not been running. It’s also rained a lot today. So I’m thinking it’s more rain and not so much the condensate pipe. Does anybody know where rain water drains and how it might be getting to the passenger footwell?

No sunroof on mine. I had read about drainage being blocked on those with sunroofs, but I assume mine will have no such drainage. Is there a diagram for where all drainage holes / runs are? I’d happily check all those. No immediate blockage under the windscreen, I keep on top of it but I’ve no idea where that water runs to. I failed to say, I park my car on a slope. But I park it sideways (so passenger side is lower than driver side) so as not to put pressure on the hand brake. But in my years of doing this, it’s always been bone dry inside. Again, the windy rain and this position may simply have been a bad combo. But we’ve had similar or slightly worst before, but no water inside. I suppose it’s hard to rule this out unless one firstly knows where water can enter and drain from the car.

Thanks for the comments, especially on new year’s day. I have had the car somewhat disassembled this morning but there’s not much I can see. The passenger footwell under tray (which the footwell light is mounted to) had quite a bit of water on it when removed. It’s not been possible to see where it is coming from. Cabin filter entirely dry. No windscreen change recently, I did look at a previous comment of yours @wharfhouseand saw you mentioned this, but not so. Thanks anyway. I recently had my condenser cleaned (bad smell) and the condensate pipe was presumably therefore flushed so it surprised me that this wet carpet appeared. However, since that cleaning, I’ve kept the AC on all the time. Perhaps it’s just the sheer amount of windy rain we’ve had all over the country (I am in the Midlands and it hasn’t been anywhere near as bad as further north). But windy it was, still. Has that just caused water to get in somewhere unusual? Off to a specialist sometime soon to look and resolve. Will keep an eye on it in the meantime. Will keep you all posted.

Hi All Happy new year! My Is300h has some water in the passenger footwell. It sounds like the air conditioning condensate pipe is blocked and backed up, but I understand there are some drains that might be blocked too. Anyone got any ideas and diagrams to help me work out the matter please? I am worried it will begin to cause issues with the electronics!

Find a used approved and you’ll get 12 months of warranty from the day you buy. They are solid and reliable cars. That will be peace of mind for you, if you’re afraid to pull the trigger. Are you inclined to continue with dealership servicing? You get warranty for up to 10 years if you keep up with dealership servicing. That will give great peace of mind too, as if something goes wrong (you’re in the premium sector now) then it can be costly. Thankfully issues are rare. I personally operate without relying on Lexus warranty. Specialist servicing instead of main dealer. The app is quite useless. Pretend it is not an option. There is no auto heated windscreens or connectivity. You might be better spending money on an aftermarket upgrade of the screen, adding in Apple CarPlay or Android Auto functionality. ML audio is nice but if you don’t appreciate the audio, no need for the upgrade. All editions have Bluetooth audio and calls. Not sure AA inspection is worth the paper it is written on. Find a fine specimen with a careful previous owner / enthusiast. I personally prefer the F-Sport styling.

I don’t think it’s an issue. My CTEK one has LEDs that are constantly flashing and I’ve never had a flat battery. The power draw is very minimal.