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About chr15gb

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  • Lexus Model
    IS250 SE-L
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. I used the 3M kit on my old 5 Series. The results were quite astonishing, they came out like new and they had some pretty bad clouding around the edges beforehand. It is a bit scary when you go at it with the rough stuff seeing all the plastic coming off, they go completely white before you start making things better. It comes with green tape to protect the bodywork but it isn't very good at all, when the pad is in a drill it simply goes right through the tape. Similarly, you can't get into the corners with the diameter of the pad so despite what it says, the headlights really do need to come out to do a proper job.
  2. Does seem strange, I have no knowledge of the Lexus in this respect but if it were a BMW, the engine light would come on after 2/3 starts, not immediately. Although the engine light would come on, the car would not go into Limp mode, it would drive fine, the only annoyance would be the engine light on the dash.
  3. Interested in this one, I was going to buy the same sort of can a few days ago (quick whiff of stale urine for a few seconds lol). You could put it on recirc and ramp the fan speed up, then wave a piece of tissue at the vents to see which one is sucking.
  4. You are not alone, I lose FM reception completely when I switch the rear demister on. The rear elements don't seem to form a complete loop (on mine), there are loads of dead ends and gaps. I don't mean small gaps, a good couple of inches. It looks like it is designed like that. I have read there is an Amp above the rear roof liner but I haven't had the guts to start pulling anything out to find it. Heat Sensor on the battery box sounds interesting, I haven't noticed that.
  5. Was the half hours labour simply because they already had the inlet manifold off for the pressure sensor or did the half hour include taking the manifold off? A Full Service is £485 which does not involve removing the manifold A 60k service including plug change is £645. A difference of £160 to take the manifold off and change the plugs (assuming price of plugs is included). As you say, they need to make their profits! I did mine on the drive but I can understand the "side of the road" problem. Backwards and forwards with sheets of plastic covers and fetching tools would be a chore.
  6. P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection Faulty or stuck open PCV valve Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!) Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
  7. Yes. Easier than taking an inlet manifold off a 530D which I have done a number of times. Having the right tools helped, I can see why that rear manifold bolt would take a while if you only have standard right angled sockets, I did try that first but it's a non starter. I reckon you could get it down to just over an hour by going balls out and have experience.
  8. In my old BMW 530D days we used to use this video as a good example of what it can be like removing a stuck injector lol
  9. Well on a normal run today I am satisfied changing them has made a difference. I suggested earlier the car felt "snappier" but more accurately, the car was more twitchy and jumpy on the gear changes. The revs climb much faster. I haven't owned the car very long but one particular part of my route sees the speed limit rise from 30 to 50 right at the bottom of an uphill section. I always keep the car set to ECT PWR as the car would be left behind whilst everyone else accelerated (two lanes) if I was in Eco mode. To keep up I would have to almost bury the throttle to kick down a gear or two if it were in normal Eco mode. I've switched back to Eco mode now and I can keep up with everyone else comfortably. I'm convinced now those original plugs are 92k worth of wear. I guess I am simply restoring the car to what it should be like. Both the MAF clean and the plug change have made positive improvements.
  10. I must admit I cringed at the first two pics but once fitted, looks neat. Not something I feel I need but for those who do, this will be a good solution
  11. They come with the gap set. All I can find suggests don't mess with them. They have a protective plastic shield over the end so I just checked the top end was tight, then fitted them. I put a little copper grease on the thread before fitting I agree with you, the gap did look quite large on the new ones, more than I recall from my old petrol days. I've been a derv driver for many years, last was a 530d.
  12. The car feels snappier than before but I will reserve judgement until I have driven it on regular journeys before deciding how much benefit there is. Apologies for my poor camera work but I tried to get a decent close up of the plugs. Without the new ones to compare to, I don't know if these are worn or not
  13. No other issues, it was remarkably straight forward. The bits which looked easiest turned out to be more frustrating like the clip the guy removes at the 4 minute mark. Those were swines on both sides. I thought I had broken one on the passenger side but I had simply dragged out the tie wrap retainer so it pushed back in okay. Not sure how relevant this is but I plugged an ODB reader before and the spark advance was 18-20. Afterwards it is 6. The engine was cold on the first one and up to running temp for the afterwards measurement.
  14. I was waiting for some nice weather which finally arrived. The job took about 2 hours but I did take the opportunity to give the Throttle body a good clean too (and as it was my first time, I didn't rush anything). I followed the youtube guide at the bottom of this post. Almost the same but ours don't have the fuel pipe. I couldn't quite work out how to fully remove the inlet manifold, it was held on by an electrical plug up by the bulkhead which looked a right faff to unclip. I didn't need to anyway as I could just manoeuvre the manifold out of the way to get access to the plugs. I found the worse bolt to be the one at the back of the throttle body. The gap is too small to get a socket in there so I had to use a ring spanner but even then, I could only move it about 2 flats at a time. Not difficult but time consuming. A problem I did encounter was on removal of a coil (nearest driver seat). The large seal came away with the coil and fell down the side of the engine. I had to fashion a fishing rod out of an old coat hanger and fish it out from the bottom engine cover where it had laid to rest. My car is on 92K with FLSH. The 60k service was done but the price on the service history is the same as a normal service (£445). The 60k service should have been over £600 with the plugs changed so I had doubts as to whether my plugs had been changed when due. New plugs supplied by Lexus Birmingham via Ebay for £80. I inspected the orange seals on the underside of the manifold which all looked fine so I left them in. I've included the knuckled socket I used to remove the rear manifold bolt everyone says is a Beetch to remove. Using that it came out fine with no problems. You will note the top of the old plugs are the nice sandy colour but there is a fair amount of sooty deposits. I don't know if this is 32k miles worth or 92k miles worth of wear. At first start afterwards, the car revved at 1550rpm. I read somewhere if the throttle has been disconnected, the car should be left to idle for 5 mins so it can re-learn the throttle position so I did just that. After a 20 min drive up the motorway, it is now idling at 675rpm and drives great. Quite a big job out oft he way, next is to learn all about the brake slide pins and do those.