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About chr15gb

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  • Lexus Model
    IS250 SE-L
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection Faulty or stuck open PCV valve Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!) Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
  2. Yes. Easier than taking an inlet manifold off a 530D which I have done a number of times. Having the right tools helped, I can see why that rear manifold bolt would take a while if you only have standard right angled sockets, I did try that first but it's a non starter. I reckon you could get it down to just over an hour by going balls out and have experience.
  3. In my old BMW 530D days we used to use this video as a good example of what it can be like removing a stuck injector lol
  4. Well on a normal run today I am satisfied changing them has made a difference. I suggested earlier the car felt "snappier" but more accurately, the car was more twitchy and jumpy on the gear changes. The revs climb much faster. I haven't owned the car very long but one particular part of my route sees the speed limit rise from 30 to 50 right at the bottom of an uphill section. I always keep the car set to ECT PWR as the car would be left behind whilst everyone else accelerated (two lanes) if I was in Eco mode. To keep up I would have to almost bury the throttle to kick down a gear or two if it were in normal Eco mode. I've switched back to Eco mode now and I can keep up with everyone else comfortably. I'm convinced now those original plugs are 92k worth of wear. I guess I am simply restoring the car to what it should be like. Both the MAF clean and the plug change have made positive improvements.
  5. I must admit I cringed at the first two pics but once fitted, looks neat. Not something I feel I need but for those who do, this will be a good solution
  6. They come with the gap set. All I can find suggests don't mess with them. They have a protective plastic shield over the end so I just checked the top end was tight, then fitted them. I put a little copper grease on the thread before fitting I agree with you, the gap did look quite large on the new ones, more than I recall from my old petrol days. I've been a derv driver for many years, last was a 530d.
  7. The car feels snappier than before but I will reserve judgement until I have driven it on regular journeys before deciding how much benefit there is. Apologies for my poor camera work but I tried to get a decent close up of the plugs. Without the new ones to compare to, I don't know if these are worn or not
  8. No other issues, it was remarkably straight forward. The bits which looked easiest turned out to be more frustrating like the clip the guy removes at the 4 minute mark. Those were swines on both sides. I thought I had broken one on the passenger side but I had simply dragged out the tie wrap retainer so it pushed back in okay. Not sure how relevant this is but I plugged an ODB reader before and the spark advance was 18-20. Afterwards it is 6. The engine was cold on the first one and up to running temp for the afterwards measurement.
  9. I was waiting for some nice weather which finally arrived. The job took about 2 hours but I did take the opportunity to give the Throttle body a good clean too (and as it was my first time, I didn't rush anything). I followed the youtube guide at the bottom of this post. Almost the same but ours don't have the fuel pipe. I couldn't quite work out how to fully remove the inlet manifold, it was held on by an electrical plug up by the bulkhead which looked a right faff to unclip. I didn't need to anyway as I could just manoeuvre the manifold out of the way to get access to the plugs. I found the worse bolt to be the one at the back of the throttle body. The gap is too small to get a socket in there so I had to use a ring spanner but even then, I could only move it about 2 flats at a time. Not difficult but time consuming. A problem I did encounter was on removal of a coil (nearest driver seat). The large seal came away with the coil and fell down the side of the engine. I had to fashion a fishing rod out of an old coat hanger and fish it out from the bottom engine cover where it had laid to rest. My car is on 92K with FLSH. The 60k service was done but the price on the service history is the same as a normal service (£445). The 60k service should have been over £600 with the plugs changed so I had doubts as to whether my plugs had been changed when due. New plugs supplied by Lexus Birmingham via Ebay for £80. I inspected the orange seals on the underside of the manifold which all looked fine so I left them in. I've included the knuckled socket I used to remove the rear manifold bolt everyone says is a Beetch to remove. Using that it came out fine with no problems. You will note the top of the old plugs are the nice sandy colour but there is a fair amount of sooty deposits. I don't know if this is 32k miles worth or 92k miles worth of wear. At first start afterwards, the car revved at 1550rpm. I read somewhere if the throttle has been disconnected, the car should be left to idle for 5 mins so it can re-learn the throttle position so I did just that. After a 20 min drive up the motorway, it is now idling at 675rpm and drives great. Quite a big job out oft he way, next is to learn all about the brake slide pins and do those.
  10. Always good to see someone getting their hands dirty rather than throw cash at a garage. Hope it all goes well.
  11. I vote the gs300. The 250 rear is only good for occasional short trips with rear seat adult passengers. I looked at a 450h and really liked it but having just driven to the airport with three suitcases and hand luggage, glad I didn't buy it. I don't know enough about hybrids to have an opinion but from the figures, they don't seem massively economical.
  12. To be fair there wasn't any crap on it that I could see. The wires/elements looked in perfect condition but it has made a definite difference since cleaning. I gave it a couple of days before posting just in case it was that placebo effect.
  13. I've been looking for small job to do whilst the weather is not the best. I've got some Throttle Body cleaner for when I have a little time, along with some spark plugs for the summer. I bought some MAF cleaner, looks a bit cheap and nasty but I took a punt anyway My MAF looked perfectly clean, all shiny and new but I spayed the thing liberally with the cleaner anyway. I'm bamboozled by the difference, I wasn't expecting anything after looking at the elements beforehand. The engine revs much more freely, the whole car feels much more responsive. My Top Tip for the day, get some MAF cleaner and give it a spray every 6 Months or so. Takes 2 minutes to remove, 10 minutes drying time and 2 mins to refit.
  14. Why not just pull the cap off in Picture 2? you can see the coolant inside the tank.