keithd

Big Thanks to Smiffys for helping me with a little bit of advice on this one. Basically, I did the rears and could see that the guide pins moved freely in those, so I could see exactly how the floating mechanism was supposed to work. I phoned Smiffys to get some advice on what to do over the fronts, which had two guide pins siezed on the nearside and the upper one siezed on the offside. I was told that the pins obviously needed free movement and that getting a bit rough with it was the only way that I was likely to be able to free them. (It was a great help getting advice from someone who had been through the same situation.) Armed with the confident advice that I was not likely to do much damage if I got fairly brutal with the siezed offside one. I turned the guide pin with a 17mm socket on the end nut, added a liberal spray of WD40, and a friend tapping the casting to help free it. It only took a few minutes to free, then clean it up and regrease it and, Hey Presto!, a working floating caliper mechanism. Armed with my new found confidence I managed to free the nearside ones much quicker. Haven't tested it yet as it got dark and I was up to the eyeballs in muck, but hopefully I now have a soarer that stops. It also made me think that with 3 out of 4 guide pins siezed on the front brakes, my braking efficiency must have been seriously reduced, which I thought was due to needing new pads. I suspect I will notice the difference now though. Thanks guys.

I've posted this on the Soarer page as that is the car I am replacing brake pads on, but as the system is similar, I am also posting it here as someone may have seen the same problem. I've followed the procedure to replace the brake pads, which seems quite simple. Removed the top 14mm bolt on the cylinder assembly, swung it down, replaced the pads and associated shims etc, then pushed the cylinders back in (I opened the bleed valve to let the fluid flow out as I read somewhere about problems with an accumulator if you just merrily shove them back in), and then my problem arises. When I try to swing the cylinder assembly back up into position it won't go because the new pads are obviously much thicker. The problem is on the outside where the 'claw' of the cylinder assembly goes as the rear where the pistons are has plenty of clearance. It looks like the cylinder assembly should slide outwards to allow the 'claw' to clear the pads but I can't move it. Is there a secret or should I get a bit brutal with it to make it move?

Anyone out there changed brake pads on a soarer? I've followed the procedure which seems quite simple. Removed the top 14mm bolt on the cylinder assembly, swung it down, replaced the pads and associated shims etc, then pushed the cylinders back in (I opened the bleed valve to let the fluid flow out as I read somewhere about problems with an accumulator if you just merrily shove them back in), and then my problem arises. When I try to swing the cylinder assembly back up into position it won't go because the new pads are obviously much thicker. The problem is on the outside where the 'claw' of the cylinder assembly goes as the rear where the pistons are has plenty of clearance. It looks like the cylinder assembly should slide outwards to allow the 'claw' to clear the pads but I can't move it. Is there a secret or should I get a bit brutal with it to make it move?