AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


rz1c13

Members
  • Content count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

rz1c13 last won the day on September 1

rz1c13 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

16 Good

About rz1c13

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Robert

Profile Information

  • Lexus Model
    LS 430
  • Year of Lexus
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Essex
  1. Hi, If I may chip in my answer, here is what I have learned doing my own research and working with a friend with over 25 years experience servicing medium and enterprise range inverters and backup power supply systems. Get your capacitors from a supplier that can guarantee/ tell you how long these have been sitting on a shelf before you buy. Electrolytic capacitors are known to have rather short shelf life (2-3yrs) and deteriorate their parameters randomly when not in use. Also if you need to replace more than one piece of a kind, say 100 uF, make sure ALL these 100 uF for your PCB come from the same batch, have the same manufacturing date, come from the same factory of a top notch producer. Maybe look for NIPPON, PANASONIC, EPCOS... Check maybe if UK Farnell can get you some, rather than eBay... If you have an LCR meter check them for C and ESR. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/8794/do-electrolytic-capacitors-have-a-limited-shelf-life I wouldn't waste too much time, but if interested, here may be a good start for a further reading: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/3191479_Shelf-Life_Evaluation_of_Aluminum_Electrolytic_Capacitors http://www.rubycon.co.jp/en/products/alumi/pdf/Performances.pdf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Hope this helps, and you get your car sorted. Btw, your subject just made me think that I maybe should do some prev. cap change on my 2004 ls430...
  2. Thanks for sharing your experience John. I think there are significant technical differences here, and therefore our experience is different, no doubt. Your engines are fairly big compared to my 1.6 primera - not the main point but it has to be sad that if you have a 200 - 300 horsepower at your disposal, you won't really notice let's say 10 or 20 missing because of low fuel quality, to be precise because of low octane and/or caloric value. It's a different story on an old or better put very simple engine running on a carburettor with fixed ignition timing (i.e. my primera), compared to a more modern engine where the ECU software is quite flexible and can re-map the fuel/air proportions, fuel dosage and ignition timing dynamically in order to give you consistent and good ride without sacrificing performance. What you will notice though, is that if you fill with low octane petrol or low quality of LPG, the fuel consumption will go up. I've heard some mechanics saying that you have to burn a tank or two of good high octane petrol for the engine to re-learn and adjust - not sure how much practical truth is in that, but sounds plausible. Most cars are typical daily rides, and will accept a wide variety of octane value, but these cars are rather tuned towards the lower numbers (around 90 and higher). You can still put 100+ in them but you may not notice that much improvement, maybe a few % better mpg, and a smoother running engine. Tuning for low end of octane is simply a safety margin, i.e. if you happen to drive through Ukraine, or Poland and fill up on a shady station you won't blow your engine. But if you decide to take things in your own hands and re-map the ECU for higher octane petrol 98 or 100+ or a better LPG, you will definitely enjoy sharper acceleration and better mpg, there's no doubt about that, especially if your engine is turbo-charged. The problem I see here, however, is too much risk. Especially for LPG, as there are no standards of octane or "quality" of LPG as there are for petrol. Believe me or not, there is excellent, average and, awful LPG out there. I think that my old primera is a good testing platform for fuel. The engine has got at all times one stiff base setting for fuel/air proportions, does not try to compensate, re-learn for one or another octane number, and has one fixed ignition timing that you can set yourself on the ignition distributor - which is currently lightly over-advanced. This is why I can better feel the quality of fuel, as it is the only one parameter that changes in the whole experiment. In modern engines there are so many parameters adjusted dynamically + quality of fuel comes into play, so I agree you may have trouble figuring out the cause from the effect or any difference at all. On the quality of fuels my impression is that outside Germany everywhere else is worse, especially for LPG, and the more to the east or south you go it gets worse and inconsistent. In Poland alone, throughout say last 10 years there were a few nation-wide petrol related scandals uncovered. Stations selling 98-100 octane on the label and after lab tests turned out it hardly had 95. The 95 labelled one had barely 90, and so on. And much worse things like unusually high water amount in fuel, etc. LPG contaminated by shreds of metal particles and scum. Many people got engines damaged and tried to claim that from the petrol stations. And in some cases that was not necessarily the stations creating the scam, it was also corrupt one level above, the fuel was already like that when arrived from our national refinery, that's why I've said nationwide scandals. One last note - I have no personal reasons to praise Germany, or complain about Poland, just telling the reality from my perspective. **** sometimes happens no matter the country, but where big money and politics/govt/regulators mix. Look no further than the last VW emissions scandal...
  3. Those who know the subject will recognise some parts. The LPG ECU hidden away under one of the covers on the RHS.
  4. No, I did it in Warsaw, Energy Gaz Polska, or Energy Gas Poland. They specialise in challenging projects, and have been auhtorised by many dealers, including Toyota/Lexus. They've done dozens of LS 430s, and showed me some of their clients have covered 700k+ km on LPG fitted LS430s and still running no problems at all. So, I had to look no further. I wanted an experienced garage and engineers that know this particular V8 (3UZ), and they know what they are doing, so I end up with the best gas conversion kit possible for this car and get the best work done, the price did not matter. By the way I've seen some very impressive LPG conversion projects made by them: Audi RS6 V8 4.2 bi-turbo 511 bhp, Subaru WRX, and lately Ddodge RAM SRT10 with Viper V10 8.3L 517 bhp
  5. Yes if the installation is done right, on the right engine there should be no concern. However, on some poor quality engines they (valves) happen to burn, even running solely on petrol !!! - some new 4.0L grand cherokees love it - so forget an LPG on that, or find out for yourselves. My neighbour just killed one cherokee like that. Another example is when an LPG installation is not fine-tuned and running the engine too lean - for many reasons - carelessness, clogged gas filters, worn gas injectors, or because the customer wanted to skimp on LPG fuel consumption and/or the shop wanted to brag the customer that they will fit an LPG and the MPG will be as good as on petrol... Yes, so to compensate for the lower caloric value, a typical LPG will consume about 10-20% more fuel, but again, a decent LPG has easily an octane value above 100, so if the fuel maps of the engine are tuned well, or if the software of the engine can learn and adjust to this octane dynamically, the results can be astonishing, especially power-wise. Most of the LPG is composed of butane and propane. Butane has higher caloric value, and burns hotter, but not so good in freezing conditions, propane is the one less caloric, but burns better when cold (much lower freezing temp) - that's why the LPG for winter has (or should have) different proportions propane/butane than LPG for summer - on some engines in extreme temperatures you can feel the summer/winter difference. Now about LPG quality. I'm from Poland, do a lot of driving back and forth from the UK, and sadly must say that LPG quality (and the power your car can get from it) is not consistent across the countries, and even filling stations. In relative terms, Polish gas is ranges from poor to average, sadly, BP in Poland IMHO is not impressive at all. Belgium and Netherlands have consistent quality, but not impressive, UK the same. What stands out is Germany, and only specific stations: I can trust any ARAL - I have tried many of them, and all of them have 100+ octane petrol too. Last trip I filled on a German Total, pricey, 72 cents/litre of LPG, but my nearly 25yr old primera 1.6, 16v on carburettor (!) started flying. Engine got so responsive and eager like never. 190 km/h top speed on that LPG, while usually struggled to top 160-170. Note - it's got a lightly advanced timing to account for higher octane petrol or LPG. Just before Dunkirk I stopped on Belgian Texaco to re-fuel, 42 cents/litre, and... so disappointed - acceleration was like driving through wet cement. Just converted an LS430, and testing, so the time will tell, but so far I'm very happy - running last BRC Sequent Plug&Drive conversion kit. I did the conversion in a Lexus approved garage, with 2yrs warranty etc. I was also surprised to hear that now in Poland many dealers (if you request) will outsource an LPG conversion and sell you a brand new LPG powered car, and this will not affect warranty, your rights, etc.
  6. Depends, and not necessarily, For example the new Prins installations for engines with direct injections of liquid phase gas don't need that, in fact the LPG in liquid phase helps to cool off the valves. My personal feeling is that the old Jap engines, like on my primera P10, 1994 were made much robust and designed with a high margin tolerances for temperatures and such. I've been running this Nissan for over 15yrs on LPG with no valve lube, and compression testing it - no change whatsoever.
  7. Yes, totally agree. The LPG oil looks pristine at around 10k miles. Just got the LS, but also have a 1994 Nissan primera at 330k on the clock, LPG on it for over 15 years, running on fully synth Mobil 1 5w/50.
  8. Sorry, by mistake I sent it to GS forum, Can an admin move it over to the LS 430 section please? Or, shall I copy this content there myself?
  9. Interesting topic. I would like to hear arguments supporting using 5/30. However what I hear from experienced mechanics - some working for the dealers, the x/30, be it 0/30 or 5/30 are very thin / low viscosity oils. They tend to burn off, combust, get consumed, whatever.... much more easily than x/40 or x/50 due to lower resistance to high combustion temperatures. The good (and probably the only one) side of x/30 is that due to low visc. there is less resistance to moving parts of the engine and lower fuel consumption, you may get a bit more power, or you may think you will... and we are more "eco-friendly…". As the eco-histeria gets pushed further, the dealers of course will recommend 0/30 or 5/30. However, because the oil film of x/30 is much thinner, you get more engine wear - and this is what our lovely car dealers want: you scrap your car at around 150-200k miles and go and get a new one. I have lived it myself, used to get 5/40 full-synthetic from asda for my mazda 323f 2.0, Wasn't too bad, but once I tried mobil 1 5w50 (not recommended by the dealer by the way), the car stopped consuming oil, engine and valves got much quieter and I have no soot deposit on the chrome end of the tailpipe anymore! So what is this eco-histeria about... By the way I did not notice an increase in fuel consumption. Now onto the LPG. The combustion temperature of LPG-air mixture is higher than petrol (I'm guessing 20-30%), moreover, if an LPG installation is fitted/tuned by an amateur, or someone who doesn't know your engine inside-out, you'll soon get the valves burnt out, and plus if running too lean, in some extreme cases holes burnt through the piston... (yes, I've seen it too). So I see no reason why anyone would get a thin, low viscosity oil for an LPG engine - quite the opposite if you think from the point of the running conditions of the engine. Get at least 0w40, or even 5/50 fully synth. I'm currently on 0w/40 Mobil 1 (full-synth) on my LS430, and the car is LPG powered and happy. I want to test Mobil 1 5/50, the same as on the mazda at some point, and I don't think it would hurt the LS V8.
  10. Hi all, Just converted my 430 to use LPG fuel. Runs beautifully, on BRC plug&drive hardware/software. Seamless and automatic switchover from petrol->LPG. Done in Poland in a Lexus approved installer, 2yrs warranty. Can share pics and experience further. Happy to answer any questions.
  11. New from Belgium

    Hi Ceriel, and welcome. I drive quite often near Antwerp and Gent, (and had lived in Gent for nearly 2 years) if you happen to be nearby I'm more than happy to stop by for a coffee and chat! Best wishes Rob
  12. If you find the alternator working fine, then I would thoroughly check for rotten, corroded connectors and semi-broken wires. My previous Mazda kept blowing up H7 bulbs twice or more per 6 months until I have cleaned every single metal terminal or junction starting from the wires finishing on the bulbs terminals. R.
  13. My first Lexus, LS430

    That's very helpful Steve. I'll have a look into Mobil or others, just need to find out the recommended viscosity and working temp. range of the oil for this g-box. Actually I am planning to fit a solid towbar, so the upgraded radiator is a good idea, thanks for that. I'll looked into the duties / tax in the uk. If I got it correctly, as of today the duties are due if purchase (including shipping costs) is worth more than £135, and you pay VAT if goods declared are valued more than £15 or gifts more than £39 https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad/tax-and-duty Regards Rob
  14. My first Lexus, LS430

    Time to get down to business. I have a few misc semi-technical questions to start with, and not 100% sure if this is the right place. Nevertheless: 1. Can you tell me where to get the best deal on the genuine Toyota auto-transmission fluid for my LS430? 2. Is there a possibility to manually dip the headlights beam depending on the load, or is it all automatic? Also I travel to mainland Europe quite often, and hate the feeling I might be blinding other drivers when driving on the "wrong" side of the road with asymmetric UK headlights setting. Is there an easy way or a way at all to "swap" between the European and UK asymmetric headlamp settings? I know that in some BMWs, under the bonnet every headlamp had an easy mechanical switch to do that. 3. The radiator. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2004,ls430,4.3l+v8,1426092,cooling+system,radiator,2172 I think DENSO would be a reasonable choice, but am confused by the multitude of options, and what is the w/ w/o "tow package" option? and the w/o tow package is more expensive. What is going on here? Which radiator should I get to not sacrifice quality/lifetime, but also not blow up my wallet.
  15. My first Lexus, LS430

    Dealer's website https://www.rvcarsales.co.uk/ Was priced 5k, but bargained to 4.75. Within last two years she just got all round genuine disks&pads, new AC compressor and pipes, and wheel bearings&hubs... All done by Lexus main dealer service - a ton of money, but it seems the previous owner couldn't care less about the expenses.