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C Andrew Green

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Everything posted by C Andrew Green

  1. @audimad Apologies for the late reply, but I've only just had a chance to peruse the manual and I can't find out any more than the pic I posted previously in this thread. It's in the manual about removing the fuel tank and it just says remove the three hoses which appear to be the clips that just require careful use of a large pair of pliers. It's quite odd that it isn't even mentioned in the Fuel Flow diagram? I presume it to be the part I've arrowed bottom left......
  2. Haha!, why wouldn't I? I was pretty pleased with myself having succeeded and @zoricib asked nicely! I must have thought I was at work (Oh yes, I am) where customers surface years after purchase and want spares or servicing for their Seismometers leading to much searching of archives and memories! Andrew
  3. Hi @zoricib, If you're asking about adding/programming a standard key fob, yes I did indeed achieve success, for some unaccountable reason I posted the results of my efforts here OBD Engine Scanners (towards the end of the 2 page thread). If you're asking about the Smart Card key fobs, I decided that as I had the safety of two functioning standard keys I didn't need the hassle of buying a possibly un-resellable Card key. Andrew
  4. Amazingly it looks like they're waiving any admin fee....., From the eMail.....
  5. @cosmarchy Not a lot at the moment looking at their website....................... Andrew
  6. I've bought refills in the past and in my experience they're never quite the same as complete new blades, I guess it's due to wear in the blades moving parts from use and road dirt..... Andrew
  7. @cosmarchy Try this Link then. Euros are currently doing a 50% off promo £17.73 for both with promo code 'EGG80'........ Andrew
  8. Hi @cosmarchy How about: Complete 20" Denso Hybrid Complete 22" Denso Hybrid These are the OEM parts from EuroCar Parts via eBay, but check on EuroCar Parts main website first as they often have a 50% off 'introductory offer'. P.S. Ignore the slightly strange descriptions on the eBay listings. Andrew
  9. @finchy40 on an IS250 it's called a 'Front Bumper Extension Mounting Bracket'
  10. @Mr.Flo No idea about what's on Amazon, mine came from eBay, however I've previously seen this one recomended as it says it works on 64 bit Windows. They all claim to work on 64 bit Windows but I had to reinstall 32 bit Windows on a spare laptop to make mine work.... Andrew
  11. Hi, My brother had this happen a few times to his 2006 IS250 parked at home (keys not in pocket) and also when parked at work. 2nd Gen IS250's have the same long press unlock to open all windows active by default, disabled the option with Techstream and it hasn't done it since! Still doesn't explain why it does it though....... Andrew
  12. @Zuke The first time you drive one the very non-linear throttle response in normal mode might lead you to that conclusion. There's a switch to the left of the steering column to select 'ECT/PWR' mode which appears to remove some of the throttle non-linearity. Mine lives in 'ECT/PWR' mode permanently, well unless it snows when it's other position of the switch 'Snow' which is a low torque mode. Wait until it's warmed up properly and let it have some revs and it's quite quick enough. Andrew
  13. Hi Scott, Just had a look on PartSouq a US parts listing and it appears to be '7772053010 VALVE ASSY, FUEL TANK SOLENOID RETURN': Another site gives: '77720E 77720-53010 01 11.2005 VALVE ASSY, FUEL TANK SOLENOID RETURN ALE20' with '77720-53010' as the OEM part number. Hope these help......... Andrew
  14. Hi Scott, Not an IS220 owner (IS250) but the pic confused me I was trying to reconcile it with views of the engine! Then I realised from looking at the manual that the convoluted rubber thing in the foreground is actually a rear axle joint boot! According to the manual the part with three pipes is the 'Fuel route switching valve' I can't find any reference to it in the 'Parts location' section only the attached reference to removing it. I'll have a further peruse and update if I do find anything. Andrew
  15. I got fed up with constantly checking and correcting the tyre pressures due to what I thought were leaky rims so I bought a set of these (see pic). I didn't particularly like the external ones so went for the internal fit type. When I went to my regular tyre place Merittyre, Purley, Berks. It turns out that the rims were fine but the leaking was due to corrosion where the valves seat! Cleaned them out and assembled the included metal valve bodies to the rims with a generous helping of silicone O ring grease, tyres refitted and inflated to 35/38 (with nitrogen I think) and now get a continuous display of tyre pressures, which I haven't had to touch since they were fitted in April. Picture was taken just after arriving home so all the temps are up and pressures are ~4psi higher due to driving, cold in the morning they're still dead on 35/38. I have another set of these in my 16" winter tyres & wheels too. These are relstively cheap due to not having replaceable batteries but allegedly have a battery life of ~5 years, they don't transmit when they've been stationary for a while and wake up on moving a few feet. Andrew
  16. I posted a clip from the service manual in (I think) post # 17 and a description a couple of posts later, but basically just use a thin blade like a penknife blade in the rear edge of the flush panel (which is toward the front of the dome light assembly) which hinges down and inside there are two screws to remove and then two trim clips at the rearmost corners. Ideally removed with a forked trim clip tool but easily unpopped with fingers. Simply ease it down and undo the multi plug. Andrew
  17. Not mine, borrowed the pic from FaceBook..............Thought it was a brit but just realised that it's a LHD.
  18. @Alfalfa Today's update: After some more perusing of the wiring schematic I pulled my dome light assembly apart (pic). There is a lot of copper covering tracks so it's a bit difficult to follow the circuits. I then checked the 'R5' connector and the lines shown (in the second pic) are ignition switched (not 'accesory' switched like the cigarette lighter socket. White/Black trace = Ground Green = +Ignition. I haven't yet found anywhere useful that they appear on the dome light PCB and it seems somewhat crude (OCD prevents it!) to just solder wires to the back of the connector! Really need some suitable crimps for the housing as both Ignition and ground are looped out on adjacent pins. Will update further when I decide what to do next. Andrew
  19. Had a think about this on the way to work this morning (and checked when I arrived) and all I can see that is live with the ignition is the gear shift illumination LED, everything else, map, courtesy and mirror lights are all permanently live. I'm not sure how much current the gear shift illumination line can provide or how it's switched, I shall continue looking..... Andrew
  20. I had much the same thought about dashcam power. I had a poke around the multi plug with a meter when I had it out to do the LED's but couldn't make much sense of it! I eventually settled for unclipping the left side A pillar cover and running my dashcam feed up inside it. Now I have a wiring diagram I may have to revisit the multi plug when I have some spare time. As an aside I wonder where the sensor is when a sunglasses holder is fitted? Or is that only in some countries without factory fit alarm? Andrew
  21. @Alfalfa You can check it easily enough, the door pops open just like the sunglasses holder version, it just doesn't have the finger recess, I just used a penknife blade and it pops open without leaving any marks. Andrew
  22. @Alfalfa As an aside, have you had a look inside your dome light panel? I saw that some versions have a sunglasses holder, but when I took mine apart to fit LED bulbs I discovered that in my 2007 IS250 the <Intrusion Sensor> is in the section which would be the sunglasses holder. I guess it's some kind of volumetric sensor? Andrew
  23. Funny you should post this, I was having much the same thoughts..... searching eBay for 'lexus 86790-53010' shows a few OEM cameras second hand from around £25 upwards. I can't quite tell from your pic, but is the connector just a single row of 5 contacts? All the ones on eBay that show the connector appear to have a squarish connector with 2 rows of contacts? Di you notice that the standard plastic panel (where the number plate mounts) doesn't have the central cutout that the cars with nav and camera have (different part numbers)? I use my Android phone with Waze in a dash mount and I think I've figured out how to automatically switch it to video display and back (my IS is a non nav poverty spec). I've just bought a cheapy camera to try with a USB OTG compatible video grabber (digitiser) that I already have. Andrew
  24. @gdh300 HaHa good one! I thought that the two terms were mutually exclusive, but German manufacturers however disagree! Andrew
  25. @Mauler Well it's a base model! Cloth seats, not heated or cooled, manually adjusted, no parking sensors. Yep, I'm surprised that the different country models are so different in firmware, you would think that they would program it for every country and just enable / disable bits of code as required. It's probably down to legislation as to what each market requires vehicles to do. Otherwise people like us could end up fiddling with stuff and then Lexus could fall foul of the law. Andrew
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