Tony-Bones

If you go lower than 35mm you could have issues with the damper strock on bump.

Yes, make sure it's a full geometry including the castor angle, not one of those "toe and go" jobs that only sights one angle of fifteen.

As said i don't want to hijack this thread but i there is some relevance within the reply that contributes to the problem. Castor is a bugger of an angle to explain because it has so many duties and is very dynamic. So if you want to swat up and can't sleep then read this from my site> http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/tech-longcastor.php I understand you training situation, blimey i was there once myself but like you i needed more information so i trained myself and this is going back to before the Internet. One thing i will say is "ALWAYS" do a castor swing even if you know the angle is not adjustable! Knowledge is power so get the full picture rather than a cheap "toe and go". Which is what your manager would like. Back on topic As just said most places won't measure the Lexus castor position because it's not adjustable, problem number one..... Understanding the interaction between the camber/ castor/ Ackermann angle ( TOOT ) = Toe-Out-On-Turns and the lock angle surpasses toe and go so the real problem gets missed, problem number two. As said i found moving the front camber position to -10' will murder the front toe position toward ( positive ) The toe correction is in a safe direction since the steering arms are screwed in the end not out. Ok your going to loose some lock angle so now your 3 point turn will be a 3.5 turn. On the Lexus the toe's pivotal point is aft of the lower ball joint meaning it's correction will pull toward the front control arm and it's this perpendicular correction that indirectly moves the castor positive. Then the interaction between the castor/ camber and Ackermann during yaw has changed. I know this must all read ???? but it's why the Lexus has issues and remember the manufactures OEM settings are nothing more than a "SUGGESTION", they are not the law!

It's kind of rude to interrupt this thread ever more so since i'm mentioned but i feel some clarity would help..... @Funky Monkey, I worked at your parent company Stapelton's tyres for 25yrs at head office Watford and after going my own way i found myself training your instructors and some of my old area managers!! Anyway as you know they bought Kwick-Fit and have adopted the vision "tracking" is a thing of the past hence the Hunter acquisitions..... Well having it and knowing how to drive it are very different things. Now your only as good as your training and you read really keen to do a good job "stick with that attitude" but there's a long way to go and i'm sorry to say in house the team don't have a clue above basic. Quick example because i don't want to highjack the tread..... I was training your instructors but not knowing their level of knowledge i start with a simple question? "Tracking", front wheel alignment, what's it for? Some smug answers come back "to stop the tyres wearing"..... Um no i asked what's it for? Why is FWD cars front toe position different to RWD cars? Why does wheel size matter? Oh at the most simple of angles they are stumped . Back on topic The IS200/ 300/ SC issue is the castor position? In it's natural position it's unremarkable and not directly adjustable but it can be adjusted indirectly..... Here's where it gets a bit dirty? The problem we have is front camber migration. The actual listed camber positions are very low -21' stock, -30 sport so nothing to drastic there but the low castor and camber migration during yaw, or lock shall we say allows the outer wheel to lean to far negative. I wrote a new front camber position that during adjustment violates the toe which in turn when corrected moves the castor...... Point to note is no cars steering pivotal points are at right angles so any adjustment/ correction will be reflected.

Spot on so well done with your research, many get it wrong i'm afraid. Apart from the looks can you feel a benefit from the wider track?

Nice looking car..... Question though are the spacers hub centric and...... Sorry to read negative you've taken 15/ 20mm of thread away from the wheel nuts so how many turns do they have on the studs now?

They also have the fast-road settings i wrote for the MX5 MK1/ 2/ 3..... Tiss a small world :D

Problem will be the settings.... As TomW kindly said the OEM settings don't work for the IS200/ 300/ SC in the UK. I think my revised settings are still here in the knowledge bank if that helps.

A space saver is the way to go..... You cannot use run-flat-tyres unless you downgrade the suspension and/ or technically change the wheels since the RFT has a different bead line compared to a conventional tyre.

As above and no the geometry will remain the same with new bars fitted.

Your welcome.

Thought it was that..... That's why it took a few miles before the vibration.

If bent it will need to be replaced and then the geometry set.

PSI works best at 35 f/r not the 33psi listed. Wheel repair around £70 for a diamond cut.