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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all! First and foremost I am new to this forum. I bought a 2010 Lexus IS 220d F Sport from the UK and imported it to my country. I bought the 220d F Sport and not the 200d F Sport for three main reasons: 1) More power 2) Mark Levinson sound system 3) Seats with memory function However, doing this meant that my car would have no day time running lights as standard. This is something that I still really want. Does anyone now if it is possible to convert from a 2010 OEM to a 2011 OEM headlamp? Will it be an easy swap? And will the DRL work just as a plug and play or will I have to take it to a centre to get it programmed? From the satellite switches i have no access to DRL function, and this is where i assume it should be to switch them on or off. I have contacted the Lexus Official Store on eBay and their reply was: "If the customer is looking to fit a different headlamp from a different spec of vehicle we would not be able to advise regarding if it would fit the vehicle as the wiring may well be different/has not been tested so we cannot sanction changing the original spec. I can also confirm that there are no accessory DRL/s available." Before I got this message they however have recommended part number 81140-53351. In my opinion, 8113053250 looks like it has DRL function at the bottom of the headlamp unit, and is also much cheaper. Attached find the two car models i am referring to, and see the difference in headlamps. IMO the DRL function looks amazing. I tried to keep the post the shortest length possible. Any sort of information and help would be very much appreciated. Peace be with you guys. Have a good day.
  2. I have followed all the other suggestions on this sight and others regarding disabling the annoying seatbelt warning gong, but no luck. I have a Gs450h and most of the suggestions are for iS and earlier GS models. Does anyone know how to disable the gong for a GS450h 2012 model?
  3. Evening, I've got a 2012 GS450h F-Sport and I have to pull the boot lid pretty hard to close it, should it have a soft close boot like my 2008 GS450h did?
  4. There are many descriptions on the Internet of how to remove the overhead console on Lexus cars but I spent many, many hours trying to find one specifically for a Mk4 GS450h without success. I thought I'd add this in the hope that it might help any other soul who was trying to mount a dash cam or a speed camera detector connected to the wiring in the overhead console. The console is held into position only by clips. there are no screws to undo. The two tiny screws in tiny holes in my unit (see third photo) are for electrical purposes not for fixing. There are tools for removing car trim but I used an old credit card to squeeze in between the joints and spread the force to avoid damage but provide the leverage I needed. I started at the front of the console and worked backwards. The front section is held by different fitments on the left to that on the right so I tried both to see which yielded more easily. Once the front was detached I worked backwards - there are two "poppers" which on mine were white (not that I could see them at that stage) which I pulled free first another two really stiff blue ones at the back in addition to two hooks holding the rear of the unit in place. I just needed to keep levering with the credit card and pulling with my fingers. It was scary and I was sure I was going to cause some damage but when the rear two stiff "poppers" came free (I pulled down and a bit forward to free the clips) there was a loud bang and I thought I'd dented the roof but in fact I didn't damage anything. There is a multi-way plug on each side which needs to be removed to free the console completely. The first image shows the white "poppers" and the really stiff blue ones. Note also in the second photo the black plastic hooks which hold the back of the unit close to the headlining. I connected my "dash" camera via a 12V to 5V "DC transformer" to the wires for the auto-dimming mirror. I managed to unplug the mirror to find a neutral (white and black on mine) and a live (pale blue on mine) I stripped non adjacent sections of the two wires and soldered on the "transformer" wires insulating with tape as I went, then used a double sided sponge pad to fix the transformer to the metal of the structure which holds the console - there was plenty of space. tidying up the wiring was tricky but I think I did a reasonable job and it shouldn't rattle. I found that to reassemble it was best to remove the front section from the main console. Look at the top of the first photo to see where it is joined. I used a small screwdriver to free the three clips The fourth bit that looks like a clip is actually just a locating tab. I then fitted the console, minus the front section, from the back working forwards pushing the plugs firmly in with a thump of my hand. The clips on the left and right of the front of the forward section are different. I found it best to locate the right (driver's side on my UK model) first because there is a pointed tab which needs to be located to hold the front firmly up to the headlining then I pushed in the left side and the three clips holding the two parts of the console together. If you are doing this job I hope my experience helps you. I take no responsibility for any damage you do or for the accuracy of what I have written despite trying hard to do a good job.