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Found 17 results

  1. Vsc errror please help

    Hi, I do not really have any idea about cars at all, upon starting my car this evening (lexus is220d ) 2007 I got the vsc error and turned on the engine and Tc lights. Would this be from a filter problem, I have had no problems before. It is due for a service in 2k (currently 80k) would you recommend to call the road side assistance and ask them to define the fault or to take it to a garage or a dealership and ask them to asses any help is much appreciated
  2. Hi everyone. It's not Xmas but might as well be. I had a problem with a worn rear wheel bearing. The car had been used to tow around an exhibition trailer in its early life and at 175,000 miles started to complain. I'm not complaining as 175K miles is still good value. To look at car is immaculate inside and out. Still gives 40MPG and I am still in love with car after 7 years of ownership. Changing the bearing I managed to damage the ABS sensor: and when trying to remove the broken sensor, I damaged the sensor ring. To make matters worse, thinking I could repair the ring, I removed the sensor ring. Duh! What was I thinking. The friend, whose garage I was using to do the work, suddenly needed his garage and so I had to move. I drove the car home and parked up. On the way home. No Speedo. P/S Red light on even though power steering feels okay. ABS light on. Engine light on. VSC complaining. So now I have a replacement hub, with ring, new ABS sensor fitted and all on the car. But all the lights still on. I have tried removing the battery over night. All lights still on except Engine light. Any one with any thoughts before I troll off to my Lexus dealer who will want more money than they value the car at to plug in their OBD reader.
  3. My dash lit up like a Christmas tree yesterday while on the motorway. Traction control was disabled, check VSC & CEL were on and I was understandably worried! There is a lot of info from lexus owners about the vsc light but nothing relating to the isf. Apparently it covers a range of issues from loose fuel cap to broken ecu's 😯. It seems like most issues aren't actually related to the engine or the traction control system! Got the car to my friendly mechanic for a diagnostic and it turns out it's the oxygen sensors for the cats. There was no voltage going to either of them so he suspects it's a broken wire rather than the sensors themselves. Going back on Wednesday to get it fixed. Not really a suprise as the bottom of the car was rubbing on the track so much 😳 This is purely down to how low and soft my coilovers are, shouldn't put anyone else of track days 🖒
  4. Hi ladies and gents, I'm new to the forum here and bought a IS220D a few months ago. I must firstly thank everyone and website admin for the tons of information its been extremely helpful! However there is one thing (or two) that I've tried searching and haven't been able to locate a solution. Firstly theres a small wire with what looks like just a rubber gromit or something on the end, hanging loose next to my battery. I've included a couple of pics of it. Its the one just the one hanging between the battery and egr valve pipe. Any idea where that goes and more importantly if that could be a sensor triggering my second issue? Secondly and more confusing is the check VSC and engine management light which comes on. Now I'm sure its to do with the DPF being clogged up as i've read on here but the car loses no power and doesnt go into limp mode etc. The VSC ofcourse is no longer active, but apart from this I feel nothing different. It happens when I've been driving the car for around about 40 miles or so i'd say. I first noticed it when I was keeping the revs quite low around 2000rpm in 6th gear. I was aware of the DPF and egr valve issues with this car so I've previously added redex fuel line cleaner and always given it good powerful runs on the motorway when I can. I've taken it up and down the country and never had any issues and I thought it might have been because I try and force the DPF regen. Obvioiusly the local driving and low revs on the day it started could've been the trigger. Nevertheless this is where I get confused: I cleared the code (P2002 - DPF below threshold) and been driving it around local again with no issues. I could do as many miles as I like with no problems. But once its on the motorway again, 40 miles in the lights are back up. This has been repeated a few times and again no issues with driving. The mpg has dropped over time from around 30 to 28 over the course of a few months but thats it. I have just done an EGR clean, which was quite clogged up. I'm assuming/hoping it was trying to regen the dpf but due to the egr being clogged there was an issue with that. Or maybe because of it being clogged, the dpf has messed up? Nevertheless i'm taking it again on a motorway run tonight and hoping that its all sorted. Going to try and get it to regen if possible. Can anyone advise further? Thanks in advance. P.S. The wire hanging loose near the battery, could that be the trigger? P.S.S. Any additives someone could recommend for forcing the dpf to clean as it must be in a bad shape...
  5. Newby back again, having had engine warning lights on recently & scanner checks indicating CAT underperforming I tried ‘Cataclean’ which worked for 3 days. Before that a tank full of 99 RON petrol seemed to extinguish the little engine warning light for a few days too. Had the engine carbon cleaned for twice the normal time (60 mins) today & the minute I drove away, vibrating steering wheel & new warning lights not seen before (as in title). I have seen comments like "sensors need re-calibrating" to "replacement oxygen sensors" elsewhere which I hope leads to sensors & not CATS as I have been quoted nearly £1200 for OEM parts. BTW The engine can hardly be heard now, smoother shifting and power delivery, probably quicker too & they claim up to 4 MPG improvement as well so for £100 a good investment despite current situation, especially as mine has done nearly 195,000 miles. Merry Christmas
  6. Hi. I have a Lexus RX300 2006. Today the ABS VSC and parking break lights all came on whilst I was in stationary traffic. The parking break was off. Ive looked through the threads on here and cant find any where all 3 lights come on together. Any ideas?
  7. Fault: "VSC" (Vehicle Stability Control) and "VSC off" warning lights stay on Car: 2nd Gen Lexus GS430 (UK - right-hand drive vehicle) - 2004 model How did the fault arise? Car ran out of fuel just short of a petrol station. I put it in neutral and manually pushed it, just a bit. After filling up and switching on, the warning lights came on, and ever since then, these warning lights have stayed on. They were never there prior to this pushing - 100% certain. What have I tried to do since? In the central console (between the front seats) there is a button to switch VSC off. That has no effect at all. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. Each time on reconnection, the warning lights come back on almost immediately. I have looked for the OBD-II connector, because I read that shorting out pins 4 and 14 of this connector might clear the fault. This connector is supposed to be near the boot-release (trunk-release), but I cannot find it. I have peered underneath and looked for any panel, and used Google Images, to no avail. HELP!
  8. I got the dreaded Check Hybrid, Check VSC and Check EBC warning lights. Fault code readings P0A80 Hybrid and P3017 (battery cell block number 7 fault). Having gotten a quote for around €6000 to fix it, I decided to do it myself. I ordered a battery cell on ebay for €45.00 delivered to Ireland. Tools needed: Socket set with 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Flat head screwdriver, long nose pliers and a multi meter to read voltage. (You may also need a slow trickle 12v battery charger, I'll explain later). Time needed: about 4 hours, more if your connections a very dirty. 1: Remove ALL carpeted paneling from the boot (trunk if you're in the US). This is done by inserting the flathead screwdriver into the black plastic rivets and popping them out. Remove the boot flooring too, just leave the tool tray in place. You will need the 10mm socket to remove the rear boot floor luggage anchor points once you've popped open their plastic covers. The upper hanging points need to be squeezed to remove. Disconnect the power supply to the light on the right hand panel. 2: Remove the orange circuit breaker on the HV battery by sliding to the right and then pulling towards you. 3: Remove the black air duct on the bottom of the HV battery by popping the 2 black plastic rivets. 4: Unplug the power supply to the white cooling fan on the upper right of the HV battery and remove the 2 nuts holding on the fan. This should allow the 2 upper black ducting to move sufficiently to be able to remove them. 5: Open the panel covering the 2 Orange Cables (3 x 8mm nuts) and disconnect the 2 orange cables, (you can tape them up with electrical tape if you so wish). Pull back the rubber cover on the Black cable and unbolt that too. You should now look something like this: 6: Disconnect the cable running from the HV battery to the 12v lead battery. Continue to remove the 12v battery by disconnecting the +ive and -ive terminals and the white connector plugs attaching it the the HV battery. Also need to take off the temp sensor and the vent hose on the 12v battery. Remove the 12v battery support bracket and the battery tray itself. 7: Remove the last 2 bits of black ducting that was clamped by the 12v battery tray. 8: Remove the white tubing on the right of the HV battery. 9: Remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the base of the HV battery in place, 2 on each side. 10: You need to unbolt the nuts hidden behind the back seat headrests. 11: Pull the rear seats forward enough to remove the large plastic panel in the center between the rear seats and the boot wall, its hidden behind the fireproofing fabric. Use this panel cover to hold the seats away from the boot wall by wedging it between seats and wall. 12: Pull back the fireproofing to reveal 2 smaller access panels covered by a black sticky rubber square. Now remove the 3 12mm nuts holding the HV battery to the boot wall. 13: Now the tricky bit, lift the HV battery over the bolts in the boot and slide it out. (I recommend putting cardboard on the tool tray to avoid scratching when sliding the HV battery). If you are strong enough you can lift the HV battery out on your own, if not get help, it weighs about 50 kilos. Your boot should now look like this with the access panels behind the seats visible: You should also have this, I placed mine on some cardboard on my kitchen table: 14: Take off the HV battery cover by opening all the 10mm nuts, and a few 8mm. unclip the black cable while taking off the three cover panels. 15: Unclip the black plastic covering on both sides of the HV battery to reveal the 8mm connector nuts in the orange casing. 16: Number the cells 1 to 40 using a permanent marker. Use your multi meter to get a reading across each of the 40 individual cells, i.e. one lead on the +ive terminal of the cell and the other on the -ive, and record your findings, as you can see cell 28 was low for me: 17: Pull back the rubber vent tubing running along the top of the HV battery until to get beyond your bad cell/cells. 18: Remove the white end panel holding the cells in place: 19: Remove the 80 x 8mm nuts in the orange casing and clean if necessary. I used bleach and some sand paper to clean all nuts a copper plates, if you're gonna do it - do it right). 20: Remove the 8mm nuts holding each cell in place underneath until you reach your bad cell (this will probably involve removing the support leg and the converter assembly unit below the HV battery: 21: Good cells look like this Bad ones like this: 22: Start replacing your cells back into the HV battery, it doesn't matter what order and you can't mess up polarity as it only screws in on one side. I put my new cell in last in case it was a dud. (If your new cell is of a lower or higher voltage use a slow trickle 12v battery charger to get it to the same voltage as the other cells. 23: WATCH THE TEMP SENSORS UNDER THE BATTERY CELLS (3 of them), MAKE SURE YOU CLIP THEM ON AS YOU GO. See the black plastic clip peeping out here: 24: That's it you're done, just reverse everything to put in back in. Mind your back and don't bother touching cell 1 and 40 at the same time if you have the orange connector put back on. Good Luck!
  9. Hi Please help, I tried to jump start my IS250 and I seem to have fried something. I now have a check VSC warning, the car is in limp mode and will not go above 2000 rpm, I have had it towed to Lexus Birmingham in preparation for a big bill, are there any independent garages in Birmingham that could potentially fix this problem more cheaply than Lexus. I did the disconnect battery trick, it didn't fix the problem, a friend with a code reader told me its a throttle motor fault. Thanks
  10. Hi all got an 05 GS300 (MK3) 124,000. plugs and coils were changed at 118,000, at the time one coil failed and was replaced by lexus (before i owned it). Intended to go to the shop today, got to the junction at the end of the road went to pull out and began to misfire, engine was warm. no warning lights came on. Pulled over as soon as i could, turned off and back on hoping to clear it, still there. turned round to head home, still no warning lights. Got about a mile towards home and then the VSC and engine management light came on, but only between 1500-2500RPM. Managed to coax it home, checked the basics (oil water petrol), got the engine cover off to check all the connections to the coils and plugs. Also checked all the fuses to the EFI, ING and INJ points. all seem fine. Having looked through the forums can only find VSC light issues but with no mention of misfires, anybody have any idea what could cause any of this? half expecting failed coil pack or injector. On another point in the top fuse box by the battery i noticed that all the ABS fuses were not were they should be, looks like they have never been there, any clues? KR Ben
  11. Hi My RX300 (03) failed it's MOT due to the ABS and VSC lights not going out on the dash board. I took the car to a main dealer and they read the error codes, which I was told the main failure was the ABS actuator, plus secondary codes of loss of communication with the Yaw Rate/Acceleration sensor. I have replaced the ABS actuator (used a breakers part as £1500 was a bit steep for an 11 year old car). The lights have still not gone out and so I have hunted out the Yaw Rate sensor to get the part numbers. Do I need to only match the part number or is the serial number also important. Eg, my part number is 89183-48010; serial number 174500-5232 This part is very hard to find, but part 89183-48010; serial number 174500-5233 is relatively easy to find. Can they both be used or do I have to keep all numbers identical? Any help would be great received.
  12. Hi All, Has anyone experience of a VSC alarm that will not clear. Car is a 2008 RX400h with 100,000 KM on the clock. VSC alarm first came on end of Oct, first cold morning of the winter having been parked overnight on the drive. Brought to main dealer who said alarm was generated by a non specific general hydraulic failure but they could not find root cause. They charged for their time and car was in for a day and a half. They reset the alarm and then did the Hybrid drive recall for faulty transistor solder. Three weeks later it has come back on and will not clear. Dealer is quoting over 2,500 + VAT to replace the brake actuator. They say one of the rear wheels is generating the alarm that its not happy with its feed from actuator. Brake pedal is hard and braking is not as good as normal. You can hear what I assume is the actuator or pump pinging in and out whilst driving as if to build up pressure in the lines. When at the lights etc with your foot on brake, the power supply is still going to the motors on the display screen, yellow lines indicating juice going to motors where as normally it would not be feeding the motors. A few questions; Has anyone a similar experience and what was the outcome. Is it possible to replace with a second hand one by local mechanic who does not have access to Lexus software or laptop but is a very good mechanic. I have read on the web you need to have access to lexus software tools to replace this unit. Any help would be super
  13. Hello all, Despite the killing of the diesel option by Lexus (which I did agree with), I am the owner of a 2007 IS 220d Sport. I have visited this site many times with relation to some problems I have experienced, and others I had heard about but did not have the pain of trying to solve. First of all, most of my problems were minor and of the "easily solved variety". My car as stated is an IS 220d from 2007 with pretty much the full package (except the ML stereo system). As of today I have just over 268 000 kms on the odometer and have basically done nothing aside from basic maintenance. Only one EGR was placed in the beginning and out of warranty due to poor research on my part. Other problems with the DPF, battery etc have all been solved without much expense and the car is presently running as new. No cabin rattles, suspension is fine, acceleration is well under 8 seconds and fuel consumption is around 7-8 L/100 kms, very reasonable for this car. Same water pump, transmission, clutch, DPF, injectors, fifth injector, muffler, suspension etc. Although I am a fan of all things Lexus and gasoline, my living in Portugal along with frequent trips made me opt for the diesel. Some headaches aside, the car is actually quite fine and I´d love to help or attempt to help out anyone that loves the car but is having a problem that may be solved without great expense. Cheers, John 2007 IS 220d Sport 268 000 kms and counting.
  14. Weird fault - all four warning lights came on last night when I popped out on an errand - all four were still on this morning. Remembered to check the filler cap - no whoosh, so the tank wasn't pressurised. Dried the filler cap seal off, did it up and left it. Went out at midday to go to the gym and started up - blow me but they'd all gone off! So I'm looking at OBD readers and think this fits the bill - anyone else used one of these
  15. Remapping Ecu

    Hi, I've just experienced the VSC /engine warning light on the car (GS300, 2005); After reading several posts and filling up with fuel the lights are off. Fault codes P0138 and P0158 (oxygen sensors were present). there looks to be differing stories about fuel caps, changing oxygen sensors and ECU's etc..all expensive and frightening - can the same be achieved by remapping the existing ECU? Thoughts weclomed
  16. Intermittent Vsc Message

    Hi - Just joined today.. Bought an immaculate GS300 SE late Dec 2005 - 2006 model - two weeks ago from local garage. VSC light comes on virtually every other trip. Took it to Lexus Dealer today and they say it needs 2 oxygen sensors and a new Computer E89666-30373 - Cost £2900!! Any help appreciated as I can't afford that. Steve
  17. Hi, I bought a 2002 GS430 SE Auto 2 months ago, an LPG Romano conversion, but the next day the engine management lights came on, so I took it to an LPG diagnostic, and he said that the error is P1651 and he mentioned something about VSV. So he sent me to a Lexus dealer because he couldn't get rid of the light. Lexus said that the oxygen sensors and VSV valve are required, and the specialists told me to return the car to the dealer, so I did that. They said they changed some stuff, I don't know what because I am still waiting for the invoice. So I picked it up last week and no lights were on and they said it was fixed. It was fine for 50 miles, but then the EML light came on and 2 days later the VSC lights came on as well. I noticed that when I picked it up, the heating wasn't working and it hasn't worked properly since. The acceleration is quite good, but once the engine almost cut out, so I took it back again and they told me that on petrol it works fine, and no lights were on but when they switch to gas, the lights come on. So they advised me to go to an LPG specialist. Could someone please tell me what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.