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Cambelt Kit - This Is What Comes In The Box.


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Hi

I readying a cambelt change on my Year 2000 LS400, studying posts, tutorials, fretting, pacing and ordering a few extra tools that I need to make the job possible.

After much deliberation, a great deal more than 'much' in fact...I opted for the Gates kit: TCKWP298; its the 5 piece with water pump and tensioner. Even with all the issues around Jaguar tensioners, having owned Jags, I prefer chains. They are on for life. Noisier? No. Heavier? So? Jags are amongst the quickest in class on engine size.

This is what's in the box:

The descriptions of contents is really poor and I've read posts where folk complain about not having seals and gaskets etc. and I do believe it's an easy up sell to give options to customers.

This kit does have everything to do the job: including the square inlet gasket, small round seal and larger one for the outlet (?) plus bolts and washers for the water pump.

Gates probably made the belt, made in the USA. The pulleys are Koyo from Japan and the w/pump is from China. (Nothing wrong with that as long as it's not knock off or built to poor specifications). The tensioner is a NTN...anyway they have sourced other components for 'their' kit.

Rock Auto need to pad the internals of the Gates boxes for transport - there is plenty of bumps and bends to the w/pump gasket and a compression injury to one of the pulley plastic covers. The instructions are present but are of a poor quality. By the way this kind of detail is not expensive...so add a few $ or £ to cover and make margin.

I bought the kit from Rock Auto as it included VAT, shipping etc, for £160 inclusive. First thing I did was to take a look at the timimng marks on the belt:

The crank mark is on a ridge of the belt. That's not as expected having read all the tutorials, even the specific later engines. Comments most welcome... :shifty:

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For the money it doesn't look bad with the WP included,what special tools have you purchased I 've never done mine personally but would if I had all the cam locking tools and crank pulley puller.

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I also bought a kit from Rock Auto recently, but mine came with Mitsboshi timing belt and Aisin water pump who I believe are OEM suppliers to Toyota. Had to buy the NTN tensioner separately. Here is the link:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=1363564&jnid=404&jpid=17

Also bought 8 Denso iridium spark plugs, just under £4 each, Bonnett Struts £15 each (both prices before vat) in the same shipment.

But this is not a job I can not do myself. any recommendations for specialists around Midlands would be appreciated. Tarun

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Simon

The aftermarket supplied parts are consumables used mainly in Auto workshops where techies are doing these jobs day in day out and the specific technique shown in the tutorial are the views and methods of one individual.

The parts will all fit and there are various anomilies with all the different suppliers .The gasket to the water pump will not be used by most garages as they tend to use the gasket in a tube these days.

With regard to the timing belt the crank mark sets up the correct alingnment for the installation if you want to be sure you have it perfect just do as the tutorial depicts when setting the cam marks.

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Simon

The aftermarket supplied parts are consumables used mainly in Auto workshops where techies are doing these jobs day in day out and the specific technique shown in the tutorial are the views and methods of one individual.

The parts will all fit and there are various anomilies with all the different suppliers .The gasket to the water pump will not be used by most garages as they tend to use the gasket in a tube these days.

With regard to the timing belt the crank mark sets up the correct alingnment for the installation if you want to be sure you have it perfect just do as the tutorial depicts when setting the cam marks.

Yes thanks - true. On more research I noted that for the later 400's the timing mark on the crankshaft does indeed line up with the belt's mark on the ridge of the belt. Earlier versions are slightly different.

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For the money it doesn't look bad with the WP included,what special tools have you purchased I 've never done mine personally but would if I had all the cam locking tools and crank pulley puller.

Hi Steve

Big torque wrench - very lucky to have bought this via Gumtree from a retired engineer who used it to torque up boat propellors!

10mm allen key socket - I have allen keys but I dont want to break them or get them stuck in sockets...

Harmonic Puller - eBay

18" Breaker bar - take the weight out of uncracking bolts - I'll use the torque wrench for undoing/tightening crank bolt - it's a beast

22mm impact socket - for c/shaft bolt, if I hire impact wrench I'll need this, but tougher than my current set anyway

Light - can't get enough of it at my age...

Most folk don't lock the cams but set at 50 degs to avoid/minimise rolling. I've seen a workshop manual where they are not used and a pulley holder is used to move the cams to position to slip the belt on to each camshaft pulley.

Leaves me with another question though...how hard to move the camshafts/pulley then?!

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I also bought a kit from Rock Auto recently, but mine came with Mitsboshi timing belt and Aisin water pump who I believe are OEM suppliers to Toyota. Had to buy the NTN tensioner separately. Here is the link:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=1363564&jnid=404&jpid=17

Also bought 8 Denso Iridium spark plugs, just under £4 each, Bonnett Struts £15 each (both prices before vat) in the same shipment.

But this is not a job I can not do myself. any recommendations for specialists around Midlands would be appreciated. Tarun

Can anybody help Tarun?

Yep I looked at AISIN a lot, I went for the complete kit - bonnet struts is an ok job with a fiddle and brush to prop one side of the bonnet to take the weight...

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Steve 2006, The crank pulley didn't need a puller on my '94 but the crank bolt was very tight.

The gentleman that sold me the torque wrench also gave me a couple of big spanners as part fo the deal. Now following advice on another post I can use the 2.5 inch one as a pulley holder, with drilling 2x8mm holes 66mm apart in the forks of the spanner.

Or...use an allen key in the flywheel...if it's toqued on correctly then it should let go. (I don't believe it has ever been removed) I wonder if those that are over torqued have been off in the past and "re-torqued" with an air gun.

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If you have a compressor Aldi still had a few of the impact guns the other day at £15.00 come with several sockets and inline oil lube feeder.

Just recheck the torque on the cam actuator bolts we've had a couple of wrecked engines reported when the bolts have come loose.

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If you have a compressor Aldi still had a few of the impact guns the other day at £15.00 come with several sockets and inline oil lube feeder.

Just recheck the torque on the cam actuator bolts we've had a couple of wrecked engines reported when the bolts have come loose.

Will do - I'll check torques, I'll see if I can use the old belt to rotate the cams as required. I'll try not to use the bolts.

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