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Regarding the wheels, my IS250 is on 85k miles, Lexus serviced up until 70k. The wheels all appear to be original - there's no lacquer 'peel' or corrosion anywhere at all. I wonder if its down to how clean owners keep the wheels from brand new? Some people leave brake dust on till the wheels are black, which can't do the finish any good at all. Perhaps I'm just lucky....although I'm not normally!

Pete

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Well my cars just over 50,000 mls wheels are corroding some more than others, i am going to use them for winter tyres, put the summer tyres on new wheels i just bought and get the winters sorted when i take them off in about march.

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You asked what to use and were considering WD40 or other penetrating oils. The stuff to use is a 50:50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/

Shake well before use and don't get it near your paint.

If that's too much of a fiddle, then penetrating oils designed for issues caused by rust are what you want in this application - not to say bathe it in nitric acid, but you need more than just pure lubrication. Even vinegar will dissolve rust effectively given half an hour.

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couple of questions. Mouser what is this formula for ? Rust removal from where ? My original question was how to stop paint flaking off. When I removed the wheel I noticed flaking starts from hub which had all the salts on it.

Comes to my mind now is rust due to salt. Now in UK I have never heard anyone washing their engine or washing the car from under. In more dusty countries people do this. There are special yet cheap places for this job. they lift the car high and then wash with pressure water. then some detergent and water again. some spray oil as well. Have you guys heard of such malarkey? RESULT is never heard of exhaust falling off. First time someone told me their exhaust fell of I didn't think they are serious. But spraying oil isn't sensible.

Tyres and alignment. I am not getting time to get this sorted. I see inner and outer wear which suggest low tyre pressure and which it was (36psi) when I bought the car. However the nearest lexus is 2 hours drive. I asked this question before but now asking again slightly differently, what if I give some figures to kwikfit or any other garage and tell them to set it to those? Kwikfit has free alignment check that I can do but not sure if they will share the values.

Do you guys do tyre rotation ?

Also, Shock absorbers... what are the impact of shocks on anything else breaking in the car. While I do not see any difference during driving I know now due to slight leak that shock has to be replaced. my question is how much time do I have.

Thanks all.

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It was in response to your question about how to un-seize the slide pins.

If you're seriously concerned about rust on the body, then underseal is the way to go. I just jetwash as best I can, and I've not encountered any serious rust yet.

Tyre wear - set your pressures so that wear is even. The required pressure depends on load, speed, temperature & sidewall stiffness and you'll likely not have a well calibrated gauge - in short, set the pressure so that the tyres wear as they should, rather than obsessing over a specific number.

My tyres are directional, and front & rear are different sizes, so no.

Shocks - clean them off and check back in a weeks time. If oil is leaking you'll see it. Losing two drops since they were first fitted isn't a worry, significant amounts over the course of a week and you'll soon be bouncing along and suffering handling issues (plus a failed MOT).

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Did you buy this from a garage, ? I would not be happy with this car based on your comments if it was a Honda civic, definitely would not be pleased with a top spec lexus. The air pressure BTW looks OK, think 36/38 psi is recommended rate up to 100mph or something. Tyres are different front and back as pointed out so you can't swap.

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thanks mouser.

I was able to get the caliper done. The thing worked for me was plenty of wd40 for a day. then small hammer and tapping it. vibration made and come off. Big hammer didn't do anything. Took a good few hours of tapping but I could see progress after an hour or so ... keeps one motivated.

I am happy with caliper minus the pin cover. but I will check it soon.

The tyre rotation for this car is left goes to right and vice versa. That's what manual says.

Toffee thanks. private sale. I don't think shock absorber leak is anything to do with maintenance. I doubt MOT can catch it as is plus Lexis missed it. Like someone said here once... parts fail.

the garage I went to buy lexus from are bunch of cheat and selling rubbish. I can still see at least one of them on auto trader. I don't understand how they sell them... This was by far the best I could find with all the gear.

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OK yes it's the bass. it shakes at volume 20 and up. I won't listen to music when I drive I guess....

Anyway... what sort of tool do you guys use for oil filter changing ? I was thinking of buying a 6inch rubber strap sealy from euro car parts. something like this:

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/oil-service-tools/oil-filter-wrenches/?538770251&0&t5_444

so I can use it for all kind of filters and since it's rubber it won't damage the filter housing. Or is this a bad tool?

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A rubber strap (or any other generic oil filter removal tool) is utterly useless for undoing Lexus/Toyota oil filter housings.

You need (more or less must have) one like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-LEXUS-GS250-GS300-GS450H-IS220D-IS250C-IS250-2005-OIL-FILTER-REMOVAL-TOOL-/291062390949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43c4aba0a5

Note the cut outs in the rim - they engage with the filter housing tabs.

(PS - Time to start a new thread, methinks!)

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