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Just wanted to post a big thank you from across the water. I got the Check Hybrid system at 107,000 miles and dealer wanted $7,500 to replace the traction battery. But after checking around a few other resources and this thread decided to give it a go. Ordered 3 cells from Belarus just to be sure I had extra parts. Took me an hour to remove the traction battery. All of my cells tested at 7.3 - 7.6v though and I didn't have to replace any individual cells. But my copper bus bars were quite corroded. Was quick work with a rotary tool with sandpaper attachment to polish them up and have it reassembled. If it helps anyone though, I used a small power drill to remove and replace the nuts on the bus bars...bad idea. I didn't think it had much torque, but it sheared one of the battery posts off. Doing it by hand it much was more reliable. Another dumb move was in reassembling the unit I forgot that the service disconnect had to be inserted and slid all the way over...dumb. On the other hand, I can now reliably disassemble and reassemble the unit in less than an hour each way. An hour to check and clean the battery and voila. No more error codes. I posted a copy of my bus bar before and after cleaning, it seems this is also a common problem, and not just bad cells.

post-54888-0-13135700-1450737725_thumb.j

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Just wanted to post a big thank you from across the water. I got the Check Hybrid system at 107,000 miles and dealer wanted $7,500 to replace the traction battery. But after checking around a few other resources and this thread decided to give it a go. Ordered 3 cells from Belarus just to be sure I had extra parts. Took me an hour to remove the traction battery. All of my cells tested at 7.3 - 7.6v though and I didn't have to replace any individual cells. But my copper bus bars were quite corroded. Was quick work with a rotary tool with sandpaper attachment to polish them up and have it reassembled. If it helps anyone though, I used a small power drill to remove and replace the nuts on the bus bars...bad idea. I didn't think it had much torque, but it sheared one of the battery posts off. Doing it by hand it much was more reliable. Another dumb move was in reassembling the unit I forgot that the service disconnect had to be inserted and slid all the way over...dumb. On the other hand, I can now reliably disassemble and reassemble the unit in less than an hour each way. An hour to check and clean the battery and voila. No more error codes. I posted a copy of my bus bar before and after cleaning, it seems this is also a common problem, and not just bad cells.

You're very welcome, interesting that it was just the copper bars giving you trouble, glad it all worked out for you.

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Hi all. I have a 2007 gs450h.

When on the move, there is a noise from the rear, gets louder with speed. It sounds a little like a blowing exhaust, though it just passed an MOT, and the noise doesnt get louder with the windows down.

I think it could be the fan/fans attached to the HV battery. As if the blades were hitting something at speed.

Is there a way of revving the engine so that i can have a good listen?

I can't put someone in the drivers seat, because at stationary in neutral, the engine doesnt 'rev'.

I could sit in the back while someone else drives, but its still not going to guarantee that any noise i hear will be the HV battery fan.

The noise is very annoying. Please help!

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Can you run the battery down to force the engine to kick in? I know the guy who LPG-converted my GS also converted his own RX400h and had a fun job calibrating the gas ECU, which expects you to get the engine up to a certain RPM and hold the pedal there, not much fun when the main ECU decides to shut the engine off. I think he was able to run the battery down, forcing the system to keep the engine on.

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Should be a pinned post I reckon. Probably one of the biggest questions regarding hybrids is "what happens when the battery eventually packs in?" and it's good to see that depending on what's actually failed you could be looking at a fix with a double-digit price tag instead of a four-digit one, also worth considering that even a smashed battery pack can be useful as a parts donor if you can find a scrappy who doesn't know its value.

beercan's addition regarding scrubbing up the busbar (and also being careful not to overtighten the nuts) is also very useful.

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Hi all. I have a 2007 gs450h.

When on the move, there is a noise from the rear, gets louder with speed. It sounds a little like a blowing exhaust, though it just passed an MOT, and the noise doesnt get louder with the windows down.

I think it could be the fan/fans attached to the HV battery. As if the blades were hitting something at speed.

Is there a way of revving the engine so that i can have a good listen?

I can't put someone in the drivers seat, because at stationary in neutral, the engine doesnt 'rev'.

I could sit in the back while someone else drives, but its still not going to guarantee that any noise i hear will be the HV battery fan.

The noise is very annoying. Please help!

I had the exact same thing. It turned out to actually be the exhaust. It has a weakness at the y-junction at the rear where the pipe splits to the 2 rear boxes. It's pretty hard to see it. I welded mine and it's back to being quiet again. Hope this helps.

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As suggested here I bought few of those battery cells from Belarus with intention to fix mine, but now I own another 2010 GS450h and can sell these cells to someone else if needed

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@aceswild

An excellent write up!

My own gs450h, 2007, has HV battery issues and i intend to open up the pack and recharge/renew as required. 

Will the car run on petrol engine only once i disconnect the HV battery, and

Will the bootlid still open with key, as i may be at it a while, especially if i have to order in some used cells from elsewhere in europe?

Many thanks

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@eXOBeX Turned out to be NSR wheel bearing, so new hub! I now have ABS, PCS lights on, though i never dislodged anything, as far as i am concerned. Having some trouble pulling out the old sensor, it has corroded a little

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Hi Carnut

Thanks for that. My engine didn't run with the HV battery out. The boot however will open with the key.

There are a good few things that will give you a "check hybrid" alarm, have you any codes for your problem? 

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On 10/20/2015 at 11:41 PM, aceswild said:

I got the dreaded Check Hybrid, Check VSC and Check EBC warning lights. Fault code readings P0A80 Hybrid and P3017 (battery cell block number 7 fault). Having gotten a quote for around €6000 to fix it, I decided to do it myself.

I ordered a battery cell on ebay for €45.00 delivered to Ireland.

Tools needed: Socket set with 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Flat head screwdriver, long nose pliers and a multi meter to read voltage. (You may also need a slow trickle 12v battery charger, I'll explain later).

Time needed: about 4 hours, more if your connections a very dirty.

1: Remove ALL carpeted paneling from the boot (trunk if you're in the US). This is done by inserting the flathead screwdriver into the black plastic rivets and popping them out. Remove the boot flooring too, just leave the tool tray in place. You will need the 10mm socket to remove the rear boot floor luggage anchor points once you've popped open their plastic covers. The upper hanging points need to be squeezed to remove. Disconnect the power supply to the light on the right hand panel.

2: Remove the orange circuit breaker on the HV battery by sliding to the right and then pulling towards you.

3: Remove the black air duct on the bottom of the HV battery by popping the 2 black plastic rivets.

4: Unplug the power supply to the white cooling fan on the upper right of the HV battery and remove the 2 nuts holding on the fan. This should allow the 2 upper black ducting to move sufficiently to be able to remove them.

post-54435-0-80378500-1445377419_thumb.j

5: Open the panel covering the 2 Orange Cables (3 x 8mm nuts) and disconnect the 2 orange cables, (you can tape them up with electrical tape if you so wish). Pull back the rubber cover on the Black cable and unbolt that too. You should now look something like this:

post-54435-0-23944100-1445377026_thumb.j

6: Disconnect the cable running from the HV battery to the 12v lead battery. Continue to remove the 12v battery by disconnecting the +ive and -ive terminals and the white connector plugs attaching it the the HV battery. Also need to take off the temp sensor and the vent hose on the 12v battery. Remove the 12v battery support bracket and the battery tray itself.

post-54435-0-21483100-1445377811_thumb.j

7: Remove the last 2 bits of black ducting that was clamped by the 12v battery tray.

8: Remove the white tubing on the right of the HV battery.

9: Remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the base of the HV battery in place, 2 on each side.

10: You need to unbolt the nuts hidden behind the back seat headrests.

post-54435-0-78207400-1445378220_thumb.j

11: Pull the rear seats forward enough to remove the large plastic panel in the center between the rear seats and the boot wall, its hidden behind the fireproofing fabric. Use this panel cover to hold the seats away from the boot wall by wedging it between seats and wall. post-54435-0-11838500-1445378531_thumb.j

12: Pull back the fireproofing to reveal 2 smaller access panels covered by a black sticky rubber square. Now remove the 3 12mm nuts holding the HV battery to the boot wall.

13: Now the tricky bit, lift the HV battery over the bolts in the boot and slide it out. (I recommend putting cardboard on the tool tray to avoid scratching when sliding the HV battery). If you are strong enough you can lift the HV battery out on your own, if not get help, it weighs about 50 kilos.

Your boot should now look like this with the access panels behind the seats visible:post-54435-0-20803500-1445379099_thumb.j

You should also have this, I placed mine on some cardboard on my kitchen table:

post-54435-0-33630700-1445378856_thumb.j

14: Take off the HV battery cover by opening all the 10mm nuts, and a few 8mm. unclip the black cable while taking off the three cover panels.

post-54435-0-66134000-1445379201_thumb.j

15: Unclip the black plastic covering on both sides of the HV battery to reveal the 8mm connector nuts in the orange casing.

post-54435-0-38513400-1445379311_thumb.j

16: Number the cells 1 to 40 using a permanent marker. Use your multi meter to get a reading across each of the 40 individual cells, i.e. one lead on the +ive terminal of the cell and the other on the -ive, and record your findings, as you can see cell 28 was low for me:

post-54435-0-70086600-1445379469_thumb.j

17: Pull back the rubber vent tubing running along the top of the HV battery until to get beyond your bad cell/cells.

post-54435-0-35761700-1445379788_thumb.j

18: Remove the white end panel holding the cells in place:

post-54435-0-49991200-1445379765_thumb.j

19: Remove the 80 x 8mm nuts in the orange casing and clean if necessary. I used bleach and some sand paper to clean all nuts a copper plates, if you're gonna do it - do it right).

post-54435-0-28500900-1445380209_thumb.j

20: Remove the 8mm nuts holding each cell in place underneath until you reach your bad cell (this will probably involve removing the support leg and the converter assembly unit below the HV battery:

post-54435-0-94202300-1445379871_thumb.jpost-54435-0-62915200-1445380037_thumb.j

21: Good cells look like thispost-54435-0-80390600-1445380268_thumb.j

Bad ones like this:

post-54435-0-43117100-1445380295_thumb.j

22: Start replacing your cells back into the HV battery, it doesn't matter what order and you can't mess up polarity as it only screws in on one side. I put my new cell in last in case it was a dud. (If your new cell is of a lower or higher voltage use a slow trickle 12v battery charger to get it to the same voltage as the other cells.

23: WATCH THE TEMP SENSORS UNDER THE BATTERY CELLS (3 of them), MAKE SURE YOU CLIP THEM ON AS YOU GO. See the black plastic clip peeping out here:

post-54435-0-62845500-1445380669_thumb.j

24: That's it you're done, just reverse everything to put in back in. Mind your back and don't bother touching cell 1 and 40 at the same time if you have the orange connector put back on.

Good Luck!

@aceswild

An excellent write up!

Someone selling these on ebay has the voltage on the cell showing as 7.48v, will that be enough? Most of yours were hitting over 8v?

My own gs450h, 2007, has HV battery issues and i intend to open up the pack and recharge/renew as required. 

Will the car run on petrol engine only once i disconnect the HV battery, and

Will the bootlid still open with key, as i may be at it a while, especially if i have to order in some used cells from elsewhere in europe?

Many thanks

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On 10/20/2015 at 11:41 PM, aceswild said:

I got the dreaded Check Hybrid, Check VSC and Check EBC warning lights. Fault code readings P0A80 Hybrid and P3017 (battery cell block number 7 fault). Having gotten a quote for around €6000 to fix it, I decided to do it myself.

I ordered a battery cell on ebay for €45.00 delivered to Ireland.

Tools needed: Socket set with 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Flat head screwdriver, long nose pliers and a multi meter to read voltage. (You may also need a slow trickle 12v battery charger, I'll explain later).

Time needed: about 4 hours, more if your connections a very dirty.

1: Remove ALL carpeted paneling from the boot (trunk if you're in the US). This is done by inserting the flathead screwdriver into the black plastic rivets and popping them out. Remove the boot flooring too, just leave the tool tray in place. You will need the 10mm socket to remove the rear boot floor luggage anchor points once you've popped open their plastic covers. The upper hanging points need to be squeezed to remove. Disconnect the power supply to the light on the right hand panel.

2: Remove the orange circuit breaker on the HV battery by sliding to the right and then pulling towards you.

3: Remove the black air duct on the bottom of the HV battery by popping the 2 black plastic rivets.

4: Unplug the power supply to the white cooling fan on the upper right of the HV battery and remove the 2 nuts holding on the fan. This should allow the 2 upper black ducting to move sufficiently to be able to remove them.

post-54435-0-80378500-1445377419_thumb.j

5: Open the panel covering the 2 Orange Cables (3 x 8mm nuts) and disconnect the 2 orange cables, (you can tape them up with electrical tape if you so wish). Pull back the rubber cover on the Black cable and unbolt that too. You should now look something like this:

post-54435-0-23944100-1445377026_thumb.j

6: Disconnect the cable running from the HV battery to the 12v lead battery. Continue to remove the 12v battery by disconnecting the +ive and -ive terminals and the white connector plugs attaching it the the HV battery. Also need to take off the temp sensor and the vent hose on the 12v battery. Remove the 12v battery support bracket and the battery tray itself.

post-54435-0-21483100-1445377811_thumb.j

7: Remove the last 2 bits of black ducting that was clamped by the 12v battery tray.

8: Remove the white tubing on the right of the HV battery.

9: Remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the base of the HV battery in place, 2 on each side.

10: You need to unbolt the nuts hidden behind the back seat headrests.

post-54435-0-78207400-1445378220_thumb.j

11: Pull the rear seats forward enough to remove the large plastic panel in the center between the rear seats and the boot wall, its hidden behind the fireproofing fabric. Use this panel cover to hold the seats away from the boot wall by wedging it between seats and wall. post-54435-0-11838500-1445378531_thumb.j

12: Pull back the fireproofing to reveal 2 smaller access panels covered by a black sticky rubber square. Now remove the 3 12mm nuts holding the HV battery to the boot wall.

13: Now the tricky bit, lift the HV battery over the bolts in the boot and slide it out. (I recommend putting cardboard on the tool tray to avoid scratching when sliding the HV battery). If you are strong enough you can lift the HV battery out on your own, if not get help, it weighs about 50 kilos.

Your boot should now look like this with the access panels behind the seats visible:post-54435-0-20803500-1445379099_thumb.j

You should also have this, I placed mine on some cardboard on my kitchen table:

post-54435-0-33630700-1445378856_thumb.j

14: Take off the HV battery cover by opening all the 10mm nuts, and a few 8mm. unclip the black cable while taking off the three cover panels.

post-54435-0-66134000-1445379201_thumb.j

15: Unclip the black plastic covering on both sides of the HV battery to reveal the 8mm connector nuts in the orange casing.

post-54435-0-38513400-1445379311_thumb.j

16: Number the cells 1 to 40 using a permanent marker. Use your multi meter to get a reading across each of the 40 individual cells, i.e. one lead on the +ive terminal of the cell and the other on the -ive, and record your findings, as you can see cell 28 was low for me:

post-54435-0-70086600-1445379469_thumb.j

17: Pull back the rubber vent tubing running along the top of the HV battery until to get beyond your bad cell/cells.

post-54435-0-35761700-1445379788_thumb.j

18: Remove the white end panel holding the cells in place:

post-54435-0-49991200-1445379765_thumb.j

19: Remove the 80 x 8mm nuts in the orange casing and clean if necessary. I used bleach and some sand paper to clean all nuts a copper plates, if you're gonna do it - do it right).

post-54435-0-28500900-1445380209_thumb.j

20: Remove the 8mm nuts holding each cell in place underneath until you reach your bad cell (this will probably involve removing the support leg and the converter assembly unit below the HV battery:

post-54435-0-94202300-1445379871_thumb.jpost-54435-0-62915200-1445380037_thumb.j

21: Good cells look like thispost-54435-0-80390600-1445380268_thumb.j

Bad ones like this:

post-54435-0-43117100-1445380295_thumb.j

22: Start replacing your cells back into the HV battery, it doesn't matter what order and you can't mess up polarity as it only screws in on one side. I put my new cell in last in case it was a dud. (If your new cell is of a lower or higher voltage use a slow trickle 12v battery charger to get it to the same voltage as the other cells.

23: WATCH THE TEMP SENSORS UNDER THE BATTERY CELLS (3 of them), MAKE SURE YOU CLIP THEM ON AS YOU GO. See the black plastic clip peeping out here:

post-54435-0-62845500-1445380669_thumb.j

24: That's it you're done, just reverse everything to put in back in. Mind your back and don't bother touching cell 1 and 40 at the same time if you have the orange connector put back on.

Good Luck!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161980708427?euid=baeb8111dbdb4046be996d3ddea61834&cp=1&exe=12792&ext=32582&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext

Are these prius cells the same?

cheers

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1 hour ago, aceswild said:

Yes, that cell is the same

Lovely. What would you say is a good, trickle charger? I don't want to spend a firtune on one? thanks again

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Halfords or Maplins do a slow 12v charger for about €15 - or whatever that equates to in sterling

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do you actually remove individual cells? are they 18650 type? what rating? 

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@aceswildThanks. One more question. I bought 4 used cells, and they are all showing 7.48-7.52V. I havent actually pulled out my current HV battery yet, but the battery is poor in general, i keep getting the EML and the 'hybrid battery deterioration' message. What if most of my good cells show over 8V, like yours did? Do i need to charge the 4 i bought, to around that level? thanks again

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Carnut, The last cell I put in was about 7.5 too. I didn't bother charging it and it made no difference. 

 

Toffee pie, they are all individual battery units i.e. the silver rectangular unit shown in the initial post, each unit has 6 * 1.3v cells, sealed in within. There are 40 of these battery units linked in series in the HV Battery.

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On 10/20/2015 at 11:41 PM, aceswild said:

I got the dreaded Check Hybrid, Check VSC and Check EBC warning lights. Fault code readings P0A80 Hybrid and P3017 (battery cell block number 7 fault). Having gotten a quote for around €6000 to fix it, I decided to do it myself.

I ordered a battery cell on ebay for €45.00 delivered to Ireland.

Tools needed: Socket set with 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Flat head screwdriver, long nose pliers and a multi meter to read voltage. (You may also need a slow trickle 12v battery charger, I'll explain later).

Time needed: about 4 hours, more if your connections a very dirty.

1: Remove ALL carpeted paneling from the boot (trunk if you're in the US). This is done by inserting the flathead screwdriver into the black plastic rivets and popping them out. Remove the boot flooring too, just leave the tool tray in place. You will need the 10mm socket to remove the rear boot floor luggage anchor points once you've popped open their plastic covers. The upper hanging points need to be squeezed to remove. Disconnect the power supply to the light on the right hand panel.

2: Remove the orange circuit breaker on the HV battery by sliding to the right and then pulling towards you.

3: Remove the black air duct on the bottom of the HV battery by popping the 2 black plastic rivets.

4: Unplug the power supply to the white cooling fan on the upper right of the HV battery and remove the 2 nuts holding on the fan. This should allow the 2 upper black ducting to move sufficiently to be able to remove them.

post-54435-0-80378500-1445377419_thumb.j

5: Open the panel covering the 2 Orange Cables (3 x 8mm nuts) and disconnect the 2 orange cables, (you can tape them up with electrical tape if you so wish). Pull back the rubber cover on the Black cable and unbolt that too. You should now look something like this:

post-54435-0-23944100-1445377026_thumb.j

6: Disconnect the cable running from the HV battery to the 12v lead battery. Continue to remove the 12v battery by disconnecting the +ive and -ive terminals and the white connector plugs attaching it the the HV battery. Also need to take off the temp sensor and the vent hose on the 12v battery. Remove the 12v battery support bracket and the battery tray itself.

post-54435-0-21483100-1445377811_thumb.j

7: Remove the last 2 bits of black ducting that was clamped by the 12v battery tray.

8: Remove the white tubing on the right of the HV battery.

9: Remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the base of the HV battery in place, 2 on each side.

10: You need to unbolt the nuts hidden behind the back seat headrests.

post-54435-0-78207400-1445378220_thumb.j

11: Pull the rear seats forward enough to remove the large plastic panel in the center between the rear seats and the boot wall, its hidden behind the fireproofing fabric. Use this panel cover to hold the seats away from the boot wall by wedging it between seats and wall. post-54435-0-11838500-1445378531_thumb.j

12: Pull back the fireproofing to reveal 2 smaller access panels covered by a black sticky rubber square. Now remove the 3 12mm nuts holding the HV battery to the boot wall.

13: Now the tricky bit, lift the HV battery over the bolts in the boot and slide it out. (I recommend putting cardboard on the tool tray to avoid scratching when sliding the HV battery). If you are strong enough you can lift the HV battery out on your own, if not get help, it weighs about 50 kilos.

Your boot should now look like this with the access panels behind the seats visible:post-54435-0-20803500-1445379099_thumb.j

You should also have this, I placed mine on some cardboard on my kitchen table:

post-54435-0-33630700-1445378856_thumb.j

14: Take off the HV battery cover by opening all the 10mm nuts, and a few 8mm. unclip the black cable while taking off the three cover panels.

post-54435-0-66134000-1445379201_thumb.j

15: Unclip the black plastic covering on both sides of the HV battery to reveal the 8mm connector nuts in the orange casing.

post-54435-0-38513400-1445379311_thumb.j

16: Number the cells 1 to 40 using a permanent marker. Use your multi meter to get a reading across each of the 40 individual cells, i.e. one lead on the +ive terminal of the cell and the other on the -ive, and record your findings, as you can see cell 28 was low for me:

post-54435-0-70086600-1445379469_thumb.j

17: Pull back the rubber vent tubing running along the top of the HV battery until to get beyond your bad cell/cells.

post-54435-0-35761700-1445379788_thumb.j

18: Remove the white end panel holding the cells in place:

post-54435-0-49991200-1445379765_thumb.j

19: Remove the 80 x 8mm nuts in the orange casing and clean if necessary. I used bleach and some sand paper to clean all nuts a copper plates, if you're gonna do it - do it right).

post-54435-0-28500900-1445380209_thumb.j

20: Remove the 8mm nuts holding each cell in place underneath until you reach your bad cell (this will probably involve removing the support leg and the converter assembly unit below the HV battery:

post-54435-0-94202300-1445379871_thumb.jpost-54435-0-62915200-1445380037_thumb.j

21: Good cells look like thispost-54435-0-80390600-1445380268_thumb.j

Bad ones like this:

post-54435-0-43117100-1445380295_thumb.j

22: Start replacing your cells back into the HV battery, it doesn't matter what order and you can't mess up polarity as it only screws in on one side. I put my new cell in last in case it was a dud. (If your new cell is of a lower or higher voltage use a slow trickle 12v battery charger to get it to the same voltage as the other cells.

23: WATCH THE TEMP SENSORS UNDER THE BATTERY CELLS (3 of them), MAKE SURE YOU CLIP THEM ON AS YOU GO. See the black plastic clip peeping out here:

post-54435-0-62845500-1445380669_thumb.j

24: That's it you're done, just reverse everything to put in back in. Mind your back and don't bother touching cell 1 and 40 at the same time if you have the orange connector put back on.

Good Luck!

Hiya, I checked my cells on my gs450h, 2007, earlier today. All read between 7.62 and 7.95v. 

All the copper washers and nuts are corroded though so I will be cleaning them up.

Are the voltages stated acceptable though?

Cheers

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On 12/2/2015 at 10:53 PM, aceswild said:

Sounds as if your battery was fine, did you have any fault codes before you started? It could be the converter or the likes, it's quite a complex system. I recommend having a dealer run a diagnostic on it to point you in the right direction.

 

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22 hours ago, aceswild said:

Those voltages should be fine once you've cleaned up everything.

Lovely

Where does this small silver strip go?

It looks like it fell off the hybrid lead input to the HV battery

1458656710229371845488.jpg

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8 hours ago, carnut1980 said:

Lovely

Where does this small silver strip go?

It looks like it fell off the hybrid lead input to the HV battery

1458656710229371845488.jpg

That is some sort of shield that sits behind the HV (orange cables) on the protruding bolt shown just to the right of it in your pic.

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      Changing the bearing I managed to damage the ABS sensor: and when trying to remove the broken sensor, I damaged the sensor ring. To make matters worse, thinking I could repair the ring, I removed the sensor ring.
      Duh! What was I thinking.
      The friend, whose garage I was using to do the work, suddenly needed his garage and so I had to move. I drove the car home and parked up.  On the way home. No Speedo. P/S Red light on even though power steering feels okay.  ABS light on. Engine light on. VSC complaining.
      So now I have a replacement hub, with ring, new ABS sensor fitted and all on the car.
      But all the lights still on.    I have tried removing the battery over night.  All lights still on except Engine light.
      Any one with any thoughts before I troll off to my Lexus dealer who will want more money than they value the car at to plug in their OBD reader. 
    • By Rusty Crobar
      My dash lit up like a Christmas tree yesterday while on the motorway. Traction control was disabled, check VSC & CEL were on and I was understandably worried! 
      There is a lot of info from lexus owners about the vsc light but nothing relating to the isf. Apparently it covers a range of issues from loose fuel cap to broken ecu's 😯. It seems like most issues aren't actually related to the engine or the traction control system!
      Got the car to my friendly mechanic for a diagnostic and it turns out it's the oxygen sensors for the cats. There was no voltage going to either of them so he suspects it's a broken wire rather than the sensors themselves. Going back on Wednesday to get it fixed. 
      Not really a suprise as the bottom of the car was rubbing on the track so much 😳
      This is purely down to how low and soft my coilovers are,  shouldn't put anyone else of track days 🖒
    • By T33
      Hi ladies and gents,
      I'm new to the forum here and bought a IS220D a few months ago. I must firstly thank everyone and website admin for the tons of information its been extremely helpful! However there is one thing (or two) that I've tried searching and haven't been able to locate a solution. 
      Firstly theres a small wire with what looks like just a rubber gromit or something on the end, hanging loose next to my battery. I've included a couple of pics of it. Its the one just the one hanging between the battery and egr valve pipe. Any idea where that goes and more importantly if that could be a sensor triggering my second issue?
       

       
       

       
      Secondly and more confusing is the check VSC and engine management light which comes on. Now I'm sure its to do with the DPF being clogged up as i've read on here but the car loses no power and doesnt go into limp mode etc. The VSC ofcourse is no longer active, but apart from this I feel nothing different. It happens when I've been driving the car for around about 40 miles or so i'd say. I first noticed it when I was keeping the revs quite low around 2000rpm in 6th gear.
      I was aware of the DPF and egr valve issues with this car so I've previously added redex fuel line cleaner and always given it good powerful runs on the motorway when I can. I've taken it up and down the country and never had any issues and I thought it might have been because I try and force the DPF regen. Obvioiusly the local driving and low revs on the day it started could've been the trigger. Nevertheless this is where I get confused: I cleared the code (P2002 - DPF below threshold) and been driving it around local again with no issues. I could do as many miles as I like with no problems. But once its on the motorway again, 40 miles in the lights are back up. This has been repeated a few times and again no issues with driving. The mpg has dropped over time from around 30 to 28 over the course of a few months but thats it. 
      I have just done an EGR clean, which was quite clogged up. I'm assuming/hoping it was trying to regen the dpf but due to the egr being clogged there was an issue with that. Or maybe because of it being clogged, the dpf has messed up? Nevertheless i'm taking it again on a motorway run tonight and hoping that its all sorted. Going to try and get it to regen if possible. Can anyone advise further? Thanks in advance.
      P.S. The wire hanging loose near the battery, could that be the trigger?
      P.S.S. Any additives someone could recommend for forcing the dpf to clean as it must be in a bad shape...
    • By misterarse
      Newby back again, having had engine warning lights on recently & scanner checks indicating CAT underperforming I tried ‘Cataclean’ which worked for 3 days. Before that a tank full of 99 RON petrol seemed to extinguish the little engine warning light for a few days too. Had the engine carbon cleaned for twice the normal time (60 mins) today & the minute I drove away, vibrating steering wheel & new warning lights not seen before (as in title). I have seen comments like "sensors need re-calibrating" to "replacement oxygen sensors" elsewhere which I hope leads to sensors & not CATS as I have been quoted nearly £1200 for OEM parts.

      BTW The engine can hardly be heard now, smoother shifting and power delivery, probably quicker too & they claim up to 4 MPG improvement as well so for £100 a good investment despite current situation, especially as mine has done nearly 195,000 miles.

      Merry Christmas