IanA2

MoT Advisories on suspension

Recommended Posts

MoT came up with a few surprises, see pic. Before I approach any garage(s) for opinions/prices, has anyone had similar issues?

Would be nice to know just how deep the mud is before I venture into a field which is new for me.

Thanks

 

2000 GS430 in otherwise good nick...

MoT.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

20 hours ago, IanA2 said:

MoT came up with a few surprises, see pic. Before I approach any garage(s) for opinions/prices, has anyone had similar issues?

Would be nice to know just how deep the mud is before I venture into a field which is new for me.

Thanks

 

2000 GS430 in otherwise good nick...

MoT.JPG

The lower ball joint is from £30 upwards for a non OEM part "Ebay" plus fitting. Any mechanic should be capable of replacing this in about an hour, but a check on the front tracking will be required. The anti roll bar bushes are easy to replace and are cheap to buy, but I would not replace these if they are not giving trouble.

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. As the offside ball joint needs replacing, would it be necessary (or convention) to replace nearside at the same time do you think? And the struts, any view? I don't do huge mileage (under  5k pa)  maybe leave to next year???

Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ball joints do not seem to ware out in pairs so I would leave it. The struts are made of quite thick material, and I have never come across a failure/breakage due to rust usually round the bottom area mounting. A wire brush and some black flat "Hammeright" will protect them. Wait until they start leaking oil from the top as that will stop the rust at the bottom, and will then need to be changed anyway at about £300 each just for parts.

The tester has got the description wrong on the shock absorbers as they are not truly Macpherson struts.

John

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Always find advisories a bit strange in general at times. For example, these cars don't have macpherson struts, so immaculate to say the least. It's almost like they feel obliged to put some down.

Sent from my iPhone using Lexus OC

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, TigerFish said:

Always find advisories a bit strange in general at times. For example, these cars don't have macpherson struts, so immaculate to say the least. It's almost like they feel obliged to put some down.

Sent from my iPhone using Lexus OC

So true, I had an SL60 that went to the same tester each year. Without fail there was a new advisory every year, but there was never any repetition. Neither was any of the work indicated ever undertaken. Confirmed as unnecessary by MB techie!

Interesting about the dodgy nomenclature. I know a fair bit about 50's to 80's m/c suspension, but almost zip about cars.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 01/11/2016 at 6:49 PM, Britprius said:

The ball joints do not seem to ware out in pairs so I would leave it. The struts are made of quite thick material, and I have never come across a failure/breakage due to rust usually round the bottom area mounting. A wire brush and some black flat "Hammeright" will protect them. Wait until they start leaking oil from the top as that will stop the rust at the bottom, and will then need to be changed anyway at about £300 each just for parts.

The tester has got the description wrong on the shock absorbers as they are not truly Macpherson struts.

John

Someone is going to do this for me. I just need to supply the part. From ebay it seems that oem costs roughly twice non-oem. Is this an area where it must be oem or would the half price deal suffice? Thanks.

Screen Shot 2016-11-07 at 14.12.02.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, IanA2 said:

Someone is going to do this for me. I just need to supply the part. From ebay it seems that oem costs roughly twice non-oem. Is this an area where it must be oem or would the half price deal suffice? Thanks.

Screen Shot 2016-11-07 at 14.12.02.png

I believe the OEM parts are over priced , but many would disagree so the choice is your's.

I once had a Mazda that required a rear wheel bearing replaced. The dealers price was an eye watering £425. Being in industry at the time I sourced a bearing at "Bearing Services Ltd"  at a cost of £28, but being in a hurry near a bank holiday had to collect it from Fafnir bearings at Lichfield where the man on the trade counter said "next time you need one of these come direct as it will save you 30%".

After the old bearing was removed you've guest it. The OEM was a fafnir bearing.

John

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aye, we live in greedy times.

I think I'll go the discount way, it's an old car and if it packed up tomorrow it would owe me nothing. That said, I do like it very much, and our mileage is very modest so  expect it's longevity will surprise us. Engine (at 140K plus) is sweet as a nut and the body work is 99.5% rust free. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd go with the cheaper ones as well. If they don't last, then go oem.

Sent from my iPhone using Lexus OC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, messi said:

Oem from lexus birmingham are £52 each

Would that be posted?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think its extra posted. why dont you try rockauto.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. Looked at rockauto. Seem to supply US spec & charge 14 squid postage. Might as well stick to good ol' FleaBay

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That still works at around £44 which is much cheaper than main dealer prices. ive just ordered 8 denso irridum sparkplugs from them like i always do when i need to, £41 including delivery, better than paying £60 - £80 here in uk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By the ball joints will fit the uk spec too. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the part from Japeuroparts vis fleaBay for £35 posted. Should be ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the MoT posted above, it cites "strong advice" on the ball joint issue. I'd be grateful if folks could tell me how they read that advice. I'll say why in a couple of days and reveal all. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nobody got a view on the meaning of "strong advice" ?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

........... maybe phone the garage that did the MOT and ask them directly what their " strong advice " actually means ?

I find, as do many others, that the MOT Tester on that day can often have a subjective view differing from another Tester, hence the same testing Station can year after year pass prior year's Advisories and give some new.

Malc1

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I have spoken to the garage. I'm interested to know what people would think it meant if they were given such "advice".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well,.............. get it done quite soon I would think .......  maybe within 3 months / 3000 miles  ......  it's so subjective :wallbash:

Malc1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. Thinking that it meant it should be done sooner rather than later. I booked it in to my regular garage for replacement & a service. Got a call from them to ask if I was sure I wanted it done as it was fine and didn't need changing. Just to check I went to another garage and asked if their opinion. No problem, it's fine.

Spoke to dealer principal at MoT garage. My understanding of what he said is that "Advice" means that it might need doing before next MoT and "Strong advice" means that it will need doing before next MoT. And yet, it doesn't need doing. He got shirty when I pointed that out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would take your car elsewhere for MOT's in future. 

I guess his strong advice equated to a potential Christmas bonus or similar. This whole MOT thing is still very slack. My lads car had a string of advisories from last year and I was horrified when he booked it into Halfords for this years MOT expecting the worse. It passed with no advisories. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By chr15gb
      Hi. My boot may as well have no dampers fitted, the boot slams with a vengeance unless you control it's decent until the final few inches, then drop it.
      I have had a dig around and I can't see any part numbers on either of the struts. There is a warning label with some unhelpful English but the rest Japanese.
      Ebay have plenty, but all from cars of a similar age to mine (2008) which may or may not work.
      I found http://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot-tailgate/lexus/is
      The problem is they only have an IS300 as the model, not an IS250. The picture looks the same but I don't know if they are identical or not.
      Does anyone know either the part number for an IS250 boot strut or know if the IS300 simply has a larger engine in the same body type?
    • By klarzy
      Is it possible to replace the top mount on an air suspension strut on an 03 rx300?
      Mt radial bearing is toast and if I can source a new mount or replace the bearing it will save replacing the whole strut..
    • By PCM
      Any opinion would be welcome ...
      For a while now - and I suspect others do too sometimes - my RX makes a rumble sound, from the front?
      I hear it when driving at slower speeds,straight, e.g., at 20 mph, but the road does not have to be particularly bumpy.
      I suspect, based on reading and research, that it could be shock/top mount, related?
      I am wondering... should I take it to my trusted independent garage, or should I take it to my equally trusted, local Lexus dealer.
      It was bought from Lexus up North, about 9 months ago, and is still in its first year of Lexus warranty. So I'd rather keeps the costs down if possible...
      Does anyone have a view?