Looking for an answer into the issue i have with my IS220D.
it is an manual 2006 IS220D with 140,000 on the clock.
I bought the vehicle in June, knowing of this issue, but hoping it’s a cheap easy fix to which I have only attempted terraclean as of yet.
The issue I have, is that the car feels well underpowered before the turbo kicks in, foot could be flat to the floor and it feels like it is holding back. Asoon as the turbo kicks in it’s flying.
Has anyone got the solution?
Thanks in advance.
So here is a little guide on how to install a Cusco spin turn knob in an IS200 / IS300 / Altezza.
Disclaimer: The part doesn't fit straight on and needs a tiny bit of modification.
If you're not familiar with what a spin turn knob is, then perhaps this mod is not for you. But otherwise, just google it.
A Cusco spin turn knob for Toyota/Mitsubishi/Mazda preferably a silver one since you have to shave it down anyway. Pliers Round file Sand paper 120-240 grit Drill A short M5 rod or bolt with the head cut off (can be found on a normal skateboard) An M5 nut (can be found on a normal skateboard) Step 1 Remove the handbrake boot
This part is quite easy. You just grab the handbrake boot and pull straight up. The clips should detach and the bracket should slide out vertically from the center console. Remove it completely by sliding it all the way over the handbrake handle and putting it to the side so it's not in the way.
The reason why you want to do this first is so you can access the latch down by the bottom of the handbrake later for your own ease. You can however get away with skipping this step if you're real lazy.
Step 2 Remove the handbrake button
This part is a little bit more intimidating. In theory it's as simple as unscrewing the button counter clockwise as it's threaded into the handbrake latch rod, But it's also under spring tension, and to make things worse they added a spring seat. So you will find that it binds up and turns back if you turn it by hand, which means you need to force it. So what you do is, you grab a hold of it with the pliers and keep turning it. You will feel how the spring pops out of the seat repeatedly as you unscrew it further and further. This is good, it means you're making progress.
Keep in mind that it helps to pull the handbrake as far up as possible. This won't add any extra tension to the handbrake button spring.
Step 3 Extract the spring
Once the handbrake button is removed, the next step is to take out the spring. You simply grab a hold of it with the pliers or peel it out with some other small tool.
Step 4 Prep the Spin Turn Knob for installation
Okay, so like I said in the disclaimer, the Cusco Spin Turn Knob is unfortunately about a millimeter too large in diameter to slide into the handbrake so you have to shave it down. The most effective method of doing this is to screw the handbrake button onto a small M5 rod or bolt with a cut off head and securing it with a nut. Then simply attach the rod in the chuck of your drill. Run the drill clockwise as this will prevent the spin turn knob from loosening up. And as it spins you will essentially lathe off material using a round file. Keep shaving that bad boy down until you hit roughly the same diameter as the factory handbrake button and then you wanna hit it with some finer grit sandpaper. First the 120 and then the 240. It helps to roll the sandpaper around some round item to give better control over it.
Step 5 Installation
Now that you've successfully modified your spin turn knob to fit, it's as simple as threading it onto the latch rod in your handbrake lever. If you find that the latch rod accidentally gets pushed into handbrake lever, you can push it back out by pressing the actual latch down by the latch gear and it will come back out again.
Step 6 Reinstall the shift boot
Simply slide the shift boot back over the handbrake lever and slide the bracket vertically into the center console until it clicks into place.
Congratulations! You have now installed your spin turn knob.
So I thought I would try the Auto modes where you can stop it going higher than a certain gear. I fully understand the idea, I normally use this features on twisty roads to stop the gearbox from constantly going up and down. I selected D5, the display changed as expected. I got the impression the car down shifted, then after around 3 seconds the display changed back to D (no D5), I pressed the - paddle again and it showed D5. then back to D. I then tried moving down to D4, the same thing happened, display changed back to D. When I pressed the - paddle again it showed D4 (not D5) so it had remembered that I had selected D4.
I was expecting the display to show D4, D5 etc until I held the + paddle to switch back to normal Drive. Am i doing something wrong, does the display show D when D4 is selected?
Hello im looking to get install a turbo into and IS200 and looking through this forum and various other forums I've not really found a clear answer to my question. Can you just install a turbo onto the is200 without having to buy this £2300 kit? For example, could I just change the manifold and install a turbo without having to spend all that money. I understand that some stock internals may need to be upgraded however e.g. flywheel, manifold and such.
Hi Guys , whilsts I have adapted my driving to deal with the lag in my IS220D`s turbo kicking in , it seems now to have stopped kicking in al together :-/ , I now have a complete lack of power all the way through the revs and gears :-( the only way the reach 30mph is to high rev ( 3500rpm) in both first and second gear ...... not good !! I`ve cleaned the MAF sensor with electrical contact spray , and also had the EGR valve out to claen out all the carbon deposits , of which there was plenty, all though to no avail , could it be the turbo that has failed , any advice will be greatly appreciated :-)