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Thanks Keith I agree with Edward, very good of you to take the photo and post it. Now I can see why I can't see it!  The rest looks almost new so is it a question of bad design; feeding it through the sub-frame  at a point where it gets wet but can't dry out?  Think I'll get mine down to my independent and get Bilt Hamber or some other rust proofer sprayed liberally where it runs through the sub-frame (assuming it hasn't already got tin worm).

Thanks once again you've been a great help to me and I imagine many others on the forum.  It's great posts like yours that make this a brilliant forum:-)

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Very interesting thread. Warning for potential owners - prevention is cheaper than cure.

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Just updating on this one as I'm tackling a similar rusty fuel filler pipe on my project car.  After looking under my 2002 RX yesterday I can see I'll probably have to repeat the procedure there too in a few MOT's time..

Doesn't seem to be a design flaw so much as just what happens when you shower metal with water, salt, air and debris for years!

Bear in mind these pics show parts from an EP82 Toyota Starlet so the RX will be bigger/heavier but the same basic process when I get round to attacking it.

 

So it's just a case of inspecting from below at the back, aim for the nearside/passenger side rear area:

 

20170616_133957.jpg

 

In this case the tank and metal lines are in quite a state too, most likely due to the car living on Scottish roads for so long.  Weather conditions and road salt are a major factor.

 

20170616_155122.jpg

 

On this car it was easier to grab a fresher (but till slightly rusty) tank, lines and filler although they are still available from Toyota.  I only want to do this job once on each car so best to protect it all in the one shot:

 

20170616_162815.jpg

 

One trip to the soda blaster and after powder costing they look a lot more robust:

 

20170703_144841.jpg

 

Fitting it all this week.  On such a small car it's a fairly basic approach, few 12mm bolts hold the tank in plus an assortment of pipes and clips to undo.  The RX looks to be a bigger ballache of a job.  From what I can see the filler runs quite tight between the rear subframe and the floor so that's going to require a ramp and some manual assistance if it can't be manoeuvred out past it.   

 

 

 

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Oh and Photobucket is cocking about with it's hosting policy so you'll need to click the warning signs to view anything. 

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I think I'll be getting mine up on the ramps and liberally coating in ACF50!  That's worked on keeping my Harley rust free so far (ok...a mid life crisis and I admit it!!!)

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On 16/03/2017 at 8:46 PM, Spacewagon52 said:

Yes of course! I had forgottedn about the regenerative braking. I find automatics seem to have little engine braking unless you go down to 2 or below. 

I wonder how people in the Alps go downhill without over-heating the brakes. I friend, admittedly towing a heavy trailer, burnt out the brakes on his Volvo 245 coming down some pass. He braked gently all the way - which is not recommended.

Thats what the B is for on the rx gearstick ...or the 2 on the Ls ... :wink3:

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