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dougie175

Will this routine work well?

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Hello looking to describe my valentine routine and see if other can advise helpful tips or alterative products that may give better results of cost savings

Once a year which is about due I spend a full day which is:

Pre wash - Pro Kleen snow foam through Karcher K2

Wash - Autoglym Ultra High Definition Shampoo (I haven't actually bought this yet but I have heard very good things and I get AG at trade)

Clay - Farecla G3 Pro Body Prep clay Mitt

Tar Removal - Autoglym Tar Remover

Polish - Farecla G3 Premium Compound or 3M Green Top down to Blue top depends what I pick up at work we use both using a professional machine polisher

Fine Polish by hand - Autoglym Super Resin Polish

Double Wax - Autoglym HD Wax

Wheel sealer - Armour All Shield For Wheels, saves having to go using any nasty acids on the alloys

Tyres - Autoglym Rubber Plus Cleaner (I'm  sure there are better tyre gels out there but I bought this stuff years ago and still have lots of it left as you need so little and seems to do an acceptable job lasting between cleans.

Glass - Meguiars Perfect Clarity Glass Cleaner not impressed with this its the first product I haven't liked my Meguiars, so using it up and switching to Wurth Active Foaming Glass Cleaner which we use on on the gloss black kitchen cupboard at home and seems fantastic

 

Should I be applying something before the wax for extra lasting performance?

Are any of the products or processes inferior?

 

To maintain this I do the following every 1 -2 weeks through the summer:

Pre wash - Pro Kleen snow foam through Karcher K2

Wash - Autoglym Ultra High Definition Shampoo

Dry and Wax - Autoglym Aqua Wax

Then every couple of cleans I do

Wheel sealer - Glass - Tyres

 

During the winter months I get a bit lazy and just every 2 weeks:

Use the Pro Kleen snow foam through my Karcher, seems to get about 90% of the dirt and keeps the car looking good, we get such awful weather here in the winter seems ridiculous to go to crazy during the winter as I do too many miles to work and back each day that the car is filthy the following day

Thanks for any advice or tips anyone can offer me to get the best from my car, below is a picture so you know what colour I am working with when suggesting products

5970cc79addec_2017-05-2018_45_48.jpg.c60879db8d73dfd331317d4742aadcfe.jpg

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Looks fantastic, well done!

Not a fan of Autoglym's SRP. Are you polishing to remove swirls? Personally I'd use Meg's Ultimate polish and then seal the surface with Carlack'69 before applying a wax, Collinite 915 is my favourite.

That all said your car looks very good, so perhaps it's just personal preferences. Except the sealant :wink3:

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1 minute ago, NemesisUK said:

Looks fantastic, well done!

Not a fan of Autoglym's SRP. Are you polishing to remove swirls? Personally I'd use Meg's Ultimate polish and then seal the surface with Carlack'69 before applying a wax, Collinite 915 is my favourite.

That all said your car looks very good, so perhaps it's just personal preferences. Except the sealant :wink3:

Thanks very much, to be honest the car in the photo hasn't been polished in over a year just washed and waxed its due a major polish and overhaul.

I use Autoglym SRP as it does a nice job of removing the compound and giving a nice swirl free finish ready for wax, I will look at what Carlack 69 and Collinite 915, I'm guessing Collinite 915 is a wax an alternative to HD Wax?

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SRP does a good job at masking swirls with it's fillers but doesn't really last that well without being covered with a good wax.

Yes Collinite 915 is a wax, lasts very well.

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Overall the process seems well thought out but a few pointers:

1) Pre wash - I would say this is an optional step and personally would forego it. There's no significant benefit to using a pre-wash unless the car is absolutely caked in 3 months of motorway road salt etc. If you think about it logically, using the clay mitt will add much more in terms of fine marring to the surface than washing a car that hasn't been pre-washed.

2) Use a standard shampoo - DONT use/buy Ultra HD shampoo - it has wax in it which may potentially interfere with other waxes and their water behaviour as well as making the claying stage less effective.  Ideally you want something thats a pure shampoo and doesn't have any added extras. Additionally, its overly expensive - something like Carchem 1900:1 shampoo is what you need - its the best pure shampoo on the market atm, cheaper and lasts absolutely aged as you only need 10ml in a bucket.

3) The tar/iron removal should come before the clay stage

4) I can't see any Iron contaminant removal - remember that these embed into the paint and therefore you only sheer off what is on the surface with the clay not whats embedded into the clearcoat and these tend to grow in diameter as they rust.

5) Be careful with the polishes - Paint is likely to be super soft so I'd use the 3M blue first and work up if needed. Clean the car with IPA to remove polishing oils.

6) Using SRP or any other AIO after the 3M is a waste of time and product - by the end of the 3M polishing, you shouldn't have any defects left - using SRP would do nothing to add to the finish. Just to add, skip the Meguiars Ultimate Polish - its an AIO and extremely filler heavy akin to SRP. However, unlike SRP it contains oils whereas SRP is polymer based and therefore you can put a wax or a sealant on top and it will last extremely well.

With Megs UP, a wax will stay fine on top but a sealant will start to lag within a few weeks. Additionally, a recent test on DetailingWorld suggests SRP is still the king with regard to performance and a sealant such as carlack has been proven to be compatible with it whereas UP can be problematic with regard to what you can slap on top of it. One of the reasons for SRP's success is it does the job at a good price and isn't fussy about what goes on top.

7) The wax itself depends on what you want it to achieve. Im a fan of the Soft99 range. Fusso should last about 6-8 months but the main hype is its beading and chemical resistance not to mention its £25 or so. On the other end, their show wax called Authentic Premium will last for 3 months but give you a great show car shine as its fortified with gloss enhancers and will make flake pop.

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8 hours ago, rayaans said:

Overall the process seems well thought out but a few pointers:

1) Pre wash - I would say this is an optional step and personally would forego it. There's no significant benefit to using a pre-wash unless the car is absolutely caked in 3 months of motorway road salt etc. If you think about it logically, using the clay mitt will add much more in terms of fine marring to the surface than washing a car that hasn't been pre-washed.

2) Use a standard shampoo - DONT use/buy Ultra HD shampoo - it has wax in it which may potentially interfere with other waxes and their water behaviour as well as making the claying stage less effective.  Ideally you want something thats a pure shampoo and doesn't have any added extras. Additionally, its overly expensive - something like Carchem 1900:1 shampoo is what you need - its the best pure shampoo on the market atm, cheaper and lasts absolutely aged as you only need 10ml in a bucket.

3) The tar/iron removal should come before the clay stage

4) I can't see any Iron contaminant removal - remember that these embed into the paint and therefore you only sheer off what is on the surface with the clay not whats embedded into the clearcoat and these tend to grow in diameter as they rust.

5) Be careful with the polishes - Paint is likely to be super soft so I'd use the 3M blue first and work up if needed. Clean the car with IPA to remove polishing oils.

6) Using SRP or any other AIO after the 3M is a waste of time and product - by the end of the 3M polishing, you shouldn't have any defects left - using SRP would do nothing to add to the finish. Just to add, skip the Meguiars Ultimate Polish - its an AIO and extremely filler heavy akin to SRP. However, unlike SRP it contains oils whereas SRP is polymer based and therefore you can put a wax or a sealant on top and it will last extremely well.

With Megs UP, a wax will stay fine on top but a sealant will start to lag within a few weeks. Additionally, a recent test on DetailingWorld suggests SRP is still the king with regard to performance and a sealant such as carlack has been proven to be compatible with it whereas UP can be problematic with regard to what you can slap on top of it. One of the reasons for SRP's success is it does the job at a good price and isn't fussy about what goes on top.

7) The wax itself depends on what you want it to achieve. Im a fan of the Soft99 range. Fusso should last about 6-8 months but the main hype is its beading and chemical resistance not to mention its £25 or so. On the other end, their show wax called Authentic Premium will last for 3 months but give you a great show car shine as its fortified with gloss enhancers and will make flake pop.

Thanks for the reply much appreciated!
 
Couple of things just to go over are you sure you are right about AG UHD Shampoo, as they state This shampoo does not leave any coatings or residue behind after rinsing” this was my main reason for choosing this shampoo next, it is very expensive but gets rave reviews my detailers on the internet, would you still recommend Car-Chem over the UHD Shampoo as it is many many times cheaper, I do really like the idea of a high foam shampoo I just find them much easier to work with.
 
My bad on putting tar removal before clay just a mistake
 
As far as removing iron I can honestly say I have never done this and have never noticed a need for it, which Iron remover would you recommend and how do you use it i.e. which key areas should I target with it. I have read your guide and it was superb but didnt know which of the mentioned iron removes you would recommend
 
Will this be ok for IPA? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-100-1-LITRE-Lab-Pharma-Grade-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Isopropanol-99-1L-/141522873981?hash=item20f36bae7d:g:ACEAAOSwzrxUsbES from what I have read I would just do a 50/50 mix with tap water and spray on and clean the panel after polishing with it?
 
I think I have been using SRP wrongly I would use it for what you recommend using IPA for my bad I will finish with the machine polishing and just IPA ready for protecting, lesson learnt!
 
 
As far as waxes go I have used HD Wax for so long just because I got it so cheap, the old AG rep sold me a full kit for £20 all in so really couldn't not buy it for that, however is is getting very low, personally I am after a bit of the holy grail or at least a happy medium between a nice gloss and decent lasting as I don't have time to do all this that often so need a wax that last about 6 months.
 
I notice you don't mention a sealant?
 
Thanks again

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Also I am guessing Fusso Dark would be the best for my colour not the light version?

Thanks

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1 hour ago, dougie175 said:
Thanks for the reply much appreciated!
 
Couple of things just to go over are you sure you are right about AG UHD Shampoo, as they state This shampoo does not leave any coatings or residue behind after rinsing” this was my main reason for choosing this shampoo next, it is very expensive but gets rave reviews my detailers on the internet, would you still recommend Car-Chem over the UHD Shampoo as it is many many times cheaper, I do really like the idea of a high foam shampoo I just find them much easier to work with.
 
My bad on putting tar removal before clay just a mistake
 
As far as removing iron I can honestly say I have never done this and have never noticed a need for it, which Iron remover would you recommend and how do you use it i.e. which key areas should I target with it. I have read your guide and it was superb but didnt know which of the mentioned iron removes you would recommend
 
Will this be ok for IPA? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-100-1-LITRE-Lab-Pharma-Grade-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Isopropanol-99-1L-/141522873981?hash=item20f36bae7d:g:ACEAAOSwzrxUsbES from what I have read I would just do a 50/50 mix with tap water and spray on and clean the panel after polishing with it?
 
I think I have been using SRP wrongly I would use it for what you recommend using IPA for my bad I will finish with the machine polishing and just IPA ready for protecting, lesson learnt!
 
 
As far as waxes go I have used HD Wax for so long just because I got it so cheap, the old AG rep sold me a full kit for £20 all in so really couldn't not buy it for that, however is is getting very low, personally I am after a bit of the holy grail or at least a happy medium between a nice gloss and decent lasting as I don't have time to do all this that often so need a wax that last about 6 months.
 
I notice you don't mention a sealant?
 
Thanks again

Just looked into this for you Robb and you are correct, it does indeed say it doesn't leave any coatings behind. Having said that, it appears to be very expensive for what you get and remember that this is a retail product not available in trade sizes. From what I can see, it just suds up better but the cap is 10ml and you need 6 caps for a 15l bucket (extrapolated from the instructions which state 4 caps for 10l bucket).

TBH the Car Chem Luxury shampoo concentrate (LC261) suds up perfectly well - remember the trick is to use high pressure water to force air into the bucket and create even more suds than it already creates! I believe its got a few titles under its name as well which can be seen here:

http://car-chem.com/store/car-care-exterior/car-wash-shampoos/luxury-car-shampoo-concentrate-500ml

Mine is actually this version as I wanted a tailored product but its the same shampoo just with different scents (I went for bubble gum lol)- 

http://car-chem.com/store/tailormade-by-carchem

With regard to iron removal, its just a spray and you spray it all over the car including glass and leave for 5 mins or so (dont let it dry though) and it'll turn purple indicating all the iron contaminants. I'd recommend Carchem Revolt, Bilt Hamber Korrosol, KKD ferrum and Iron X - they all work the same and in my eyes atleast, seem equally effective.

A video in action:

 

Technically Soft99 Fusso is a sealant but it also has wax like properties. If you're after good gloss and longevity, I don't think it can be beaten. Dont worry about light/dark - testing suggests there's not much difference between them. The light seems to give more gloss though and is easier to use.

This review explains it well - 

Theres a section which shows Fusso being compared to FK1000p in terms of chemical resistance using Meguiars hyper wash which is designed to strip waxes - Fusso seems to take about 4 hits before completely dying off whereas FK1000p took about 2

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Also on another note what do you recommend for machine polishing? As mentioned we keep G3 and 3M green and blue top on site, however these are mainly designed for polishing heavy flatted paint back such as wet and dry 2000 flatting marks, I have next to no scratches on my car so feel using G3 or Green top would be too severe but also don't really rate 3M Blue top especially using it alone. Happy to purchase a specific detailing polish I see a lot of people recommend Meguiars 101, I will be using a foam pad to polish the car
 
Just reading your reply above now as I type. Thanks great info

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Loving the advice and help thank you
 
Soft 99 Fusso Light bought
Car-Chem Revolt Bought
Car-Chem Luxury Car Shampoo Bought
Car-Chem clay Lube bought
100% IPA Bought should I use 50/50 or 25 IPA to 75 Water for cleaning the car after polishing and before waxing?
 
Only product left to sort is work out which polish will work best for my situation
 
Also will my current weekly routine be ok with the Soft99 Fusso? Aqua Wax on top of Fusso will be fine?

Pre wash - Pro Kleen snow foam – this is PH Neutral (I will probably switch to Car-Chem snow foam seems more cost effective anyway)

Wash - Autoglym Ultra High Definition Shampoo

Dry and Wax - Autoglym Aqua Wax

 
So this will mean my next big detail day will be the following:
 
Pre wash - Pro Kleen snow foam through Karcher K2
 
Wash - Car-chem Luxury Car Shampoo Concentrate 
 
Tar Removal - Autoglym Tar Remover
 
Iron Removal - Car-chem Revolt
 
Clay - Farecla G3 Pro Body Prep clay Mitt
 
Polish – Machine polished compound yet to be decided
 
Clean - IPA 50/50 Mix
 
Wax - Soft99 Fusso Coat Light
 
Wheel sealer - Autoglym Rubber Plus Cleaner for the Tyres and then clean the Glass

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4 hours ago, dougie175 said:
Loving the advice and help thank you
 
Soft 99 Fusso Light bought
Car-Chem Revolt Bought
Car-Chem Luxury Car Shampoo Bought
Car-Chem clay Lube bought
100% IPA Bought should I use 50/50 or 25 IPA to 75 Water for cleaning the car after polishing and before waxing?
 
Only product left to sort is work out which polish will work best for my situation
 
Also will my current weekly routine be ok with the Soft99 Fusso? Aqua Wax on top of Fusso will be fine?

Pre wash - Pro Kleen snow foam – this is PH Neutral (I will probably switch to Car-Chem snow foam seems more cost effective anyway)

Wash - Autoglym Ultra High Definition Shampoo

Dry and Wax - Autoglym Aqua Wax

 
So this will mean my next big detail day will be the following:
 
Pre wash - Pro Kleen snow foam through Karcher K2
 
Wash - Car-chem Luxury Car Shampoo Concentrate 
 
Tar Removal - Autoglym Tar Remover
 
Iron Removal - Car-chem Revolt
 
Clay - Farecla G3 Pro Body Prep clay Mitt
 
Polish – Machine polished compound yet to be decided
 
Clean - IPA 50/50 Mix
 
Wax - Soft99 Fusso Coat Light
 
Wheel sealer - Autoglym Rubber Plus Cleaner for the Tyres and then clean the Glass

Yes 1:1 with water should be good for the IPA. 

The process looks spot on. TBF you could have got away with not purchasing the clay lube - carchem shampoo is great mixed with water in a bottle and thats what I tend to use now. 

With regard to Fusso, put 2-3 coats on and it should last for a fair while. Using Aqua wax would be fine on top but remember that the beading properties are those of the top coating, therefore if you put aqua wax on, you won't be getting the brilliant beading from Fusso so I would be inclined to leave that out just in case.

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Looks like you've already decided on something else, but I'd just like to confirm that Autoglym UHD Shampoo is indeed a "pure" shampoo and doesn't leave a coating behind. It's really good stuff btw. The bucket foams up ridiculously well just with a tap fill and the suds are really thick and last forever. Like, literally forever - they'll still be there many hours later!

I haven't tried too many different shampoos (simply because the bottles last for years at a time), but UHD is definitely my favourite so far. Each time you dunk the wash mitt in the bucket it gets properly loaded-up, meaning you can do a lot of coverage at a time. Expensive? Maybe, but it's a 1L bottle and I managed to grab it for £12 during a special offer.

I find that the G3 clay Mitt works just fine with soapy water, so no real need to use a dedicated clay lube. I just frequently dip it into whatever's left in the wash bucket when I use mine. For a proper clay bar, I would definitely use a spray lubricant though.

Unless you already have some in your kit, I'd look at an alternative Tar Remover. I'm not really a fan of the AG one. Something that comes in a spray bottle is way quicker and easier to use.

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1 hour ago, rayaans said:

 

Yes 1:1 with water should be good for the IPA. 

The process looks spot on. TBF you could have got away with not purchasing the clay lube - carchem shampoo is great mixed with water in a bottle and thats what I tend to use now. 

With regard to Fusso, put 2-3 coats on and it should last for a fair while. Using Aqua wax would be fine on top but remember that the beading properties are those of the top coating, therefore if you put aqua wax on, you won't be getting the brilliant beading from Fusso so I would be inclined to leave that out just in case.

Spot on I only bought the lube as it was cheap and saved me buying another squirty bottle

Ok I was under the impression products like Aqua wax helped keep the Fusso / HD wax on for longer as they were like the first line of defence and renewed each week. If it is just the beading I would loose slightly probably not the end of the world to me as beading doesn't excite me quite as much as some. I am interested in how amazing this Fusso beading is not had a huge amount of experiences with waxes as a painter by trade for years I avoided anything that has silicones or anything that would give me silicone issues at work, now I don't paint I can enjoy any valeting products

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1 hour ago, J Henderson said:

Looks like you've already decided on something else, but I'd just like to confirm that Autoglym UHD Shampoo is indeed a "pure" shampoo and doesn't leave a coating behind. It's really good stuff btw. The bucket foams up ridiculously well just with a tap fill and the suds are really thick and last forever. Like, literally forever - they'll still be there many hours later!

I haven't tried too many different shampoos (simply because the bottles last for years at a time), but UHD is definitely my favourite so far. Each time you dunk the wash mitt in the bucket it gets properly loaded-up, meaning you can do a lot of coverage at a time. Expensive? Maybe, but it's a 1L bottle and I managed to grab it for £12 during a special offer.

I find that the G3 clay Mitt works just fine with soapy water, so no real need to use a dedicated clay lube. I just frequently dip it into whatever's left in the wash bucket when I use mine. For a proper clay bar, I would definitely use a spray lubricant though.

Unless you already have some in your kit, I'd look at an alternative Tar Remover. I'm not really a fan of the AG one. Something that comes in a spray bottle is way quicker and easier to use.

I will still ask the AG rep what price he can do a bottle of UHD Shampoo for as it does sound very nice stuff

Yeah as far as Tar Remove goes we have a couple of different types of panel wipe which work better than AG tar remover, we keep t in plungers but can stick some in a bottle to squirt over the car too, I only bought AG to try but I agree its not the easiest to use, works out for removing spots but not ideal for doing a bit job. A bit of Glasurit panel wipe in a squirty bottle will soon boss it though

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If I washed my car once a month with the mileage I do it would be disgusting!

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3 minutes ago, dougie175 said:

If I washed my car once a month with the mileage I do it would be disgusting!

trust me with nano wax you dont need to wash it that often  no dirt sticks to it  you might see some dust only  but it can be cleaned with microfiber towel and it will shine like just washed. nano is just something unreal i use it myself and realy happy with it.

good stuff is expensive but its worth it.

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1 hour ago, is 220d owner said:

i would just use crystal nano technology every 5-6 months and wash once a month that is all needed to make it shine like a mirror and also nothing sticks to it .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpmZmV-6vrI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPM8OR6W6WE

Don't see any advantage of that compared to Fusso or other sealants. It also helps to keep the car clean like most sealants do. 

If you wanted the best protection there's nothing better than a ceramic paint coating like cquartz uk

UHD is still expensive considering I managed to buy 5l of Carchem tailor made shampoo for £25. I go through loads as we have 3 cars and 3 garage doors to do all year round and it's a 2 weekly thing

Looking at how much you have to use per wash bucket, I'm nor surprised that it suds up well, so would Carchem and the bilt hamber auto wash if using 40ml per 10l

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A few goodies just turned up! Fantastic service from Car-Chem I must say

5970cccae504b_2017-06-0710_36_22.jpg.ab4fe9a95abeb979d7f506b19b066ed6.jpg

 

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On 6/6/2017 at 10:56 PM, rayaans said:

Don't see any advantage of that compared to Fusso or other sealants. It also helps to keep the car clean like most sealants do. 

If you wanted the best protection there's nothing better than a ceramic paint coating like cquartz uk

UHD is still expensive considering I managed to buy 5l of Carchem tailor made shampoo for £25. I go through loads as we have 3 cars and 3 garage doors to do all year round and it's a 2 weekly thing

Looking at how much you have to use per wash bucket, I'm nor surprised that it suds up well, so would Carchem and the bilt hamber auto wash if using 40ml per 10l

Out of interest what is your weekly routine on your cars once you have done a major detail finishing off with soft99 fusso?

Had a couple of hours free time this evening so had a play with the Carchem shampoo and revolt. 

Initial impressions of the shampoo are good it's a decent product and a little goes a long long way. Decent amount of suds and did everything i could ask of it. I'm wondering if like you mentioned above i used 40ml in a bucket what effect that would have as far as creating something similar to AG UHD and still be a more cost effective solution. There's no reason to waste product and use more than 2 cap fulls to clean a car, would do it as more of a test to see if it made a similar effect to AG UHD.

Then moving onto revolt i tried this over my entire car and the wheels and i now know where the name comes from it smells well revolting! Product seems good nothing much happened on my bodywork it essentially just stayed clear however on my wheels even though i had just cleaned and dried them before applying the revolt they still went a nice purple colour and once i had washed all the revolt away i was left with the cleanest wheels i have seen since the day i fitted them! So decided to spend an hour or so AG HD waxing them then giving them a dose of AG wheel sealer so essentially that's the wheels bossed and looking  great. 

Just waiting for a few more products to arrive and to decide on which polish to actually use then once i have a full free day i will get the whole car sorted and looking better than ever before hopefully!

So far though great recommendations on the Carchem products really like them. 

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Fusso is here, still waiting for the IPA and some Autosmart Tardis to arrive and I'm about set for the big detail day.
 
I decided to get some Autosmart Tardis over panel wipe for 2 reasons 1 so my boss doesn't moan at me and 2 because Tardis can be washed off with water and will leave nothing on the panel where as panel wipe just evaporates but isn't designed for detailing so though Tardis may be a better bet
 
5970cce03023b_2017-06-0810_56_14.jpg.fd49e04e61a6786f03b75fdb0a38c1f6.jpg
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On ‎07‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 11:32 PM, dougie175 said:

Out of interest what is your weekly routine on your cars once you have done a major detail finishing off with soft99 fusso?

Had a couple of hours free time this evening so had a play with the Carchem shampoo and revolt. 

Initial impressions of the shampoo are good it's a decent product and a little goes a long long way. Decent amount of suds and did everything i could ask of it. I'm wondering if like you mentioned above i used 40ml in a bucket what effect that would have as far as creating something similar to AG UHD and still be a more cost effective solution. There's no reason to waste product and use more than 2 cap fulls to clean a car, would do it as more of a test to see if it made a similar effect to AG UHD.

Then moving onto revolt i tried this over my entire car and the wheels and i now know where the name comes from it smells well revolting! Product seems good nothing much happened on my bodywork it essentially just stayed clear however on my wheels even though i had just cleaned and dried them before applying the revolt they still went a nice purple colour and once i had washed all the revolt away i was left with the cleanest wheels i have seen since the day i fitted them! So decided to spend an hour or so AG HD waxing them then giving them a dose of AG wheel sealer so essentially that's the wheels bossed and looking  great. 

Just waiting for a few more products to arrive and to decide on which polish to actually use then once i have a full free day i will get the whole car sorted and looking better than ever before hopefully!

So far though great recommendations on the Carchem products really like them. 

My weekly routine = 

wash, dry, dress tyres, plastics and sometimes glass if needed- thats it! 

If Fusso is getting towards the end of its life, I top up with Sonax BSD until I can use Fusso again.

Yep, revolt won't have as much effect on bodywork as wheels. Its the wheels which get most of the iron contamination. I get a good effect on bodywork as I always pass under a rail-bridge to work.

On ‎08‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 11:00 AM, dougie175 said:
Fusso is here, still waiting for the IPA and some Autosmart Tardis to arrive and I'm about set for the big detail day.
 
I decided to get some Autosmart Tardis over panel wipe for 2 reasons 1 so my boss doesn't moan at me and 2 because Tardis can be washed off with water and will leave nothing on the panel where as panel wipe just evaporates but isn't designed for detailing so though Tardis may be a better bet
 
5970ccf9e63a5_2017-06-0810_56_14.jpg.bd92ce333f5039bd25dad54449213c4b.jpg

Autosmart Tardis is the best tar remover there is by the way - it literally melts tar but don't get it on plastics

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For anyone who may be interested here was my car covered in Revolt, not much to see as I don't personally think my car had much in the way of iron contamination on the bodywork but it worked beautifully on my wheels
 
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9 minutes ago, rayaans said:

Autosmart Tardis is the best tar remover there is by the way - it literally melts tar but don't get it on plastics

What should I do with my bare polyurethane side lips whilst I spray it over the side of the car? Will masking tape protect them? Or just spray them and get a sponge and wash it off them straight away?

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8 minutes ago, dougie175 said:

What should I do with my bare polyurethane side lips whilst I spray it over the side of the car? Will masking tape protect them? Or just spray them and get a sponge and wash it off them straight away?

Usually I just spray onto an MF and wipe the panel with it, much easier to control

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