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Hi all,

Yesterday we were driving the ls, when we got into the car in the morning I noticed that the little orange check engine sign was on. Took the car to a good mechanic we know today and he showed us this. I took a pic of the error logs. He said that he would need some time to look into what they were, but he told me that they related to cruise control, VSV (what on earth is that??, not vsc) and a brake light switch under brake pedal. 

can anyone tell me what they mean??? That would be incredibly helpful.

Drove the car away from garage about 40mins ago and each time I start it up, the check VSC warning starts sounding and will not go away, our mechanic said that was a result of having the car raised up in the garage and that it should go away after some driving but it has not. 

Could all this be a result of the car having sat un driven for the last 2 months whilst we were abroad? 

It is my mom's car and she's obviously a bit spooked about having a stability control warning and lots of fault codes. I am useless with mechanics and can't even start to advise or reassure her. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

thank you all 

 

Alex 

IMG_0336.JPG

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Hope this helps, a little.

VSV =  Vacuum Switching Valve

You could start by turning of the VSC light, and see what happens.  The following is taken from an American forum:

The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.

1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:

   ______
 /---------\
/-----------\

(see picture below)

I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin 
number 5.

4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.

 

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VSV is the Vacuum Switching Valve, so not stability, but something to do with air control.

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/51687-p1651-code/

Could be a valve problem by sounds of it.  Though outside chance of ECU

Best of luck, sounds like it does not affect running of car, and getting sorted might be a little on expensive side.

 

(Just seen Brendans post, fingers crossed  that does the job)

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Your mechanic might find posts 5 and 8 in the following thread to be of use.  It shows where the VSV is located and provides the UK part number for it.

Looking at your screenshot, fault P1651 seems to have been a 'History' fault, is 'Currently' a fault and is also 'Pending'.

Good luck

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/775794-p1651-fault-vsv-vacuum-switching-valve.html

 

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This appears to be the part, at £66.88.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VACUUM-SWITCHING-VALVE-SOLENOID-FOR-TOYOTA-AMAZON-LEXUS-SC430-2586050121-/302354353311?hash=item4665b94c9f:i:302354353311

It also looks like all you need to do is unbolt the manifold, leaving everything connected, and lift up, and out of the way.  Saving hours of labour time.

I am very far from being an expert, and would urge you to make sure your mechanic checks anything I have posted.  Just trying to point you in the right direction.  Hopefully.

Good Luck.

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1 hour ago, Beejay55 said:

This appears to be the part, at £66.88.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VACUUM-SWITCHING-VALVE-SOLENOID-FOR-TOYOTA-AMAZON-LEXUS-SC430-2586050121-/302354353311?hash=item4665b94c9f:i:302354353311

It also looks like all you need to do is unbolt the manifold, leaving everything connected, and lift up, and out of the way.  Saving hours of labour time.

I am very far from being an expert, and would urge you to make sure your mechanic checks anything I have posted.  Just trying to point you in the right direction.  Hopefully.

Good Luck.

Brendan, that is very helpful indeed. Thanks. I will show that to the mechanic, and if possible I might be able to try the method which you posted myself. 

 

Alex

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1 hour ago, Cotswold Pete said:

VSV is the Vacuum Switching Valve, so not stability, but something to do with air control.

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/51687-p1651-code/

Could be a valve problem by sounds of it.  Though outside chance of ECU

Best of luck, sounds like it does not affect running of car, and getting sorted might be a little on expensive side.

 

(Just seen Brendans post, fingers crossed  that does the job)

Thanks Pete, never heard of the VSV, ha ha! I learn something new every day on here. It is possible that this is a result of some damp as the car was unused over summer and it was quite a wet one this year in the UK so I hear. What do you think about the Cruise control fault code? Cruise control works fine (tested earlier today on way home) yet the fault code suggests otherwise. 

 

Alex 

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Alex

 

I have been Googling a bit more.  Do your brake lights come on when you apply the brakes?  If not, it could well be the fuse.  I believe that fuse is in the fuse box inside the cabin, although I am sure that someone will be along to correct me if I am wrong.

If the fuse is blown, then there will be no current flowing through the circuit.  The cruise control needs to monitor that circuit to see if you apply the brakes, so as to disengage the cruise control.  Could this have been the cause of the cruise control fault code in your picture?

When you tested the cruise control, did you try to lightly brake and see if the cruise control disengaged?

Just a thought.  If by some chance I am right, that is a fault you can sort out yourself for pennies :wink3:

 

Brendan

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1 hour ago, Beejay55 said:

Alex

 

I have been Googling a bit more.  Do your brake lights come on when you apply the brakes?  If not, it could well be the fuse.  I believe that fuse is in the fuse box inside the cabin, although I am sure that someone will be along to correct me if I am wrong.

If the fuse is blown, then there will be no current flowing through the circuit.  The cruise control needs to monitor that circuit to see if you apply the brakes, so as to disengage the cruise control.  Could this have been the cause of the cruise control fault code in your picture?

When you tested the cruise control, did you try to lightly brake and see if the cruise control disengaged?

Just a thought.  If by some chance I am right, that is a fault you can sort out yourself for pennies :wink3:

 

Brendan

Ahh, now the cruise control thing is becoming clearer:yahoo:I think that you may be spot on- at first I thought that maybe a pebble had jumped up and damaged the cruise control module as it is low down at the front of the car, but then the cruise control would not be able to be set at all, and the cruise control works(tested earlier), though have not tested your idea of braking. Will also go out and see if the brake lights come on when the pedal is depressed. Mechanic said that it may be the case that intermittently they do not illuminate, and this is what is causing the error code, and, thanks to your quick thinking, possibly the cruise control fault code as a result.

As is my mom's car will wait for her to get home and suggest going for a spin and testing the cruise control, perhaps late tonight when the roads are fairly empty around here, can't even imagine what it would be like with my mother slamming on the breaks every few minutes in the middle of traffic:yucky::wink3: 

Also possible that the fuse is damp?

Alex 

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Just went out to the car and started it up- no check VSC, no engine sign! Brake lights illuminate fine.

Possible that the ECU for all this stuff is a bit damp, as the car was left standing for almost 2 months in the rain, now everything is starting to dry out and work properly.

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1 minute ago, Beejay55 said:

Good news Alex!

Let's hope that is all it was, just some damp electronics, and a period of bring off the road.

Fingers crossed, and thanks for all the help. If the problems come again, I will post back on this thread. 

Alex 

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I remember I had this issue with an ls430 I had. The vsv sensor was around £59 from the dealers, but job itself is around 3 to 4 hrs and thats because of where it's located. This is a common problem on the 430 engine. It happens on the Ls, Gs and the Sc 430's

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Just now, messi said:

I remember I had this issue with an ls430 I had. The vsv sensor was around £59 from the dealers, but job itself is around 3 to 4 hrs and thats because of where it's located. This is a common problem on the 430 engine. It happens on the Ls, Gs and the Sc 430's

oh dear, luckily the mechanic we know is very good and also on prices. Gets stuff done very quickly, so hopefully it would not end up too expensive in the end. Looks like the warnings and lights have gone away now. Fingers crossed they won't be back anytime soon. Thanks for the info, glad to know it is not just me with the problem. Really think this shouldn't be happening on a Lexus, mind you, over a decade of ownership pretty much faultless, so all is forgiven:biggrin:

Cheers for the reply,

 

Alex 

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:unsure::unsure:

CHECK VSC has come on again this morning. When the car is started up, there is no warning, it only comes up when the wheels begin to move which makes me think that this is a genuine serious problem with the traction system, not just a false message. 

Have called out RAC to inspect the car and look at the message, they'll be here within the hour. I will keep you posted. 

Really need to get this sorted as my mom is scared out of her wits to drive the car now, and i really don't want an accident, especially as it is raining around here right now.

Thank you,

Alex 

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Lovely chap from RAC just came, he told me that because the rear driver side wheel bearing is worn (is still under warranty, being swapped next week)  the traction system is going crazy! He said that when the bearing is replaced next week that the stability program has to be reset, then everything should be fine thank goodness. Very reassuring to know that it is not a major prob with stability:yahoo:

Thanks all,

Alex 

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6 minutes ago, The Lexus Enthusiast said:

Lovely chap from RAC just came, he told me that because the rear driver side wheel bearing is worn (is still under warranty, being swapped next week)  the traction system is going crazy! He said that when the bearing is replaced next week that the stability program has to be reset, then everything should be fine thank goodness. Very reassuring to know that it is not a major prob with stability:yahoo:

Thanks all,

Alex 

My money is still on the VSV being the culprit, never heard of a worn wheel bearing cause an ABS sensor fault.

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2 minutes ago, messi said:

It's the vsv sensor. It's got nothing to do with a wheel bearing causing an abs sensor fault, infact never heard of such a thing 

 

5 minutes ago, steve2006 said:

My money is still on the VSV being the culprit, never heard of a worn wheel bearing cause an ABS sensor fault.

Either way is not too big a problem. If the VSV sensor is around £50 that isn't the end of the world. When the bearing is replaced, and the stability reset, if the message keeps coming up then will have the sensor changed, I don't live too far from the nearest Lexus dealer anyways.

Thanks guys.

Alex 

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Malc said:

..................... and the end result was ??

Malc

Apologies for not keeping you all posted, so much happens and I just forget:w00t:

The bearing was changed on Monday under warranty and all sounds and drives fine apparently. 

My father said that he managed to turn off the VSC warning light using the method here:

On 29/08/2017 at 0:00 PM, Beejay55 said:

Hope this helps, a little.

VSV =  Vacuum Switching Valve

You could start by turning of the VSC light, and see what happens.  The following is taken from an American forum:

The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.

1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:

   ______
 /---------\
/-----------\

(see picture below)

I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin 
number 5.

4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.

 

He said that it works, and there is no more warning (thank you Brandan!! :yahoo:)

Seeing as the Vsc warning no longer comes up, is it safe to say that the system is now fully working? Or is there still a problem which has been disguised by the jumper pin method ? (and was caused originally by mechanic's bad quality fault code reader)

If the system works correctly then it looks like this is another case successfully closed thanks to you guys :biggrin:

 

Alex 

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