this will be myvery first post here, so appoligies for any faults.
so i set out to change the thermostat on my gs300, the old one was stuck open.
(image of the manual on how to do this)
steps (in short),
drain coolant remove lower radiator hose remove thermostat housing swap old thermostat for new one reinstall just because i was bored i decided to test if the new thermostat opens before i set of putting it in. get a pan fill it with water and make it boil, luckily i have an IR thermometer and it read about 82 degrees (celcius) when the thermostat opened up. (in the image it's still closed fyi)
so after the engine had cooled i just pulled out the lower radiator hose, nothing special here just make sure to have a big bucket in one hand while doing this, also this is not necessary but i replaced the factory clamps on the hose with these ones,
after that you find the thermostat housing with its 2 10mm bolts holding it in place, undo both of them (carefull not to loose them, they are pretty small and will fall immediately)
and after removing it,
its all really dirty as well so i cleaned it off with some brake cleaner.
this is what i looks like when cleaned together with the new thermostat.
for reference here is the page on thermostat removal form the workshop manual
(sorry i dont know how to rotate it)
as you can see the thermostat already comes with a rubber gasket so dont worry about that. torque specs are 8.8nm which would mean just handtighten it the thermostat has a little jiggle valve on it make sure this is on the highest part (so pointing upwards) this is so that air can go out, also the thermostat housing has this little spot indicating where the jiggle valve should be. note the spring side of the thermostat has to be on the engine side (very logical but it doesnt hurt to mention) and thats it you have removed and now swapped the thermostat, all left to do is put it all back together. put the thermostat in the housing and slide the housing in its spot, tighten the bolts and that re mount the radiator hose, get your rag and clena off all the spilled coolant.
fill your system back up with coolant (fill the radiator, not the reservoir) squeeze the hoses to purge air and start the engine after you are done, dont forget to top up the reservoir after you filled the radiator and keep an eye on the system for the next few days.
top tip; if you installed those clamps i mentionned, you'll have to get back in there and retighten them as the rubber will compacten under the tension of the clamp
and this is what it looks like all finished
hope this may hlp someone some day, please leave a comment on wheter you liked my first post and ill keep posting things i do on my car, next job is probably going to be a valve cover gasket.
Hi fellow enthusiasts, I just ripped my spare unit. I am going to change some bulbs and LED lamps. I am wondering if someone can help me out here and confirm. I want to leave it as original as possible, new bulbs LEDs for old ones that is.
I did some research and found out:
Radio LCD back light IL901 + IL902 = micro lamp 2x (8V / 0,1A / 0,8W) - soldered - bulb head is about 4mm x 9mm - clear with green rubber cap
that would be the same micro bulb as in a
GS430 - 2000 - Radio LCD back light IL951 + IL952 = micro lamp (8V 100mA)
Radio "key board" back light for the buttons = micro lamp 14x (8V / 0,06A / 0,5W) - soldered - bulb head is about 3mm x 5mm - clear with green rubber cap
The 2 bulbs for the Radio LCD back light I've already soldered out.
I did not know until now that the on/off button has its own micro bulb - must be getting real hot in there because in both units I have that same micro bulb is shot.
AC / Heater control LCD
55900B BULB, AIR CONDITIONER CONTROL....LCD back light!
OEM number: 84999-60450 (12V / 1.2W / 0,1A / 1/4 socket / 5mmx10mm- 3x - LCD screen - back light
OEM number: 84999-60460 (14V / 1.82W / 0,13A / 1/4 socket / 4mmx09mm- 5x - AC control buttons - back light
AC/Heater - key board - control lights for the buttons - clear LED lamps - green and orange - Luminous Intensity 30mcd-40mcd
Button/switch - LEDs: 5x green - 3mm - 1.8V??? - soldered - I used 2,2V / 0,02A / 40mcd
2x orange - 3mm - 1,8V??? - soldered - I used 2,1V / 0,02A / 29mcd
Not micro bulb! LED lamps!!!
Bottom line - heat and age is the CULPRIT.
I' thinking about replacing the coolant in my RX300 and it looks like the only option in the UK is the Toyota Super Long Life Pink Coolant. A quick search has brought up a price of £40 (incl p&p) for 5 litres. As the RX needs 9.7 litres that's £80 to fill the cooling system not including the flush!
I've investigated using generic 'red' coolant but it seems that may be incompatible with some of the seals that Toyota / Lexus use - see this thread for more info:
So the question is, has anyone else found a fully compatible coolant or know how much dealers charge per 5 litres of the correct coolant?
I'd rather not take the risk of using 'red' coolant if there is a chance it adversely affects gaskets / seals but it seems strange that Toyota would choose to go their own way on such a generic product. Damage to seals can take years to appear but can be very costly to put right...
If £80 is what it costs then so be it but an alternative would be nice!
Any advice greatly appreciated!
I'm a newbie to this forum but have owned a Lexus for 5 years now. I had a 57 plate is220D for 5 years without even having to change a light bulb and have recently bought a 4 year old is250C, which is a beaut!
Unfortunately The heater has just packed up and it's very cold out! First noticed it last week; it didn't work, then it did, now it's gone again? I read a post that it could be coolant level, I checked it and it was low. I topped it up and still no joy.
By ewan's dad
Just quck request for help, I have been doing oil and filter changes for the next few years and have also been cleaning out the EGR every 20k miles to prevent the reoccurring Check VSC problem. Thinking about other things that need to be changed is the Coolant.
So, understand how it needs to be done, checked an online resource and it says that I need to use the drain c0ck on the bottom right of the radiator (fine) and also a drain c0ck on the engine block (rumoured to be just below the coolant reservoir).
The engine drain c0ck appears to be a in a very award place, not helped by the fact that I don't actually know what it looks like, can someone help me?
To help you help me... I have found a number pictures of engines removed. Please could you play a game of find the c0ck and point it out to me?
Any help is much appreciated.
I will happily upload a how-2 guide if successful!