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IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise


rob_clio172
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6 hours ago, Martin F said:

What a great thread, and good work !!!

Are you going to add the piston oil squirters to the bottom of the bores?  IIRC these are not fitted to NA blocks but are to the turbo blocks. 

 

 

Thanks matey 👍 no im not going to bother, theres no real need to add them tbh, many have done it this way without. Some people with higher bhp 2jz-gte's have also deleted the oil squirters to improve oil pressure. I will be upgrading to the GTE oil pump though. Ive also been toying with the idea of an oil cooler too.👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update from the garage, i now have crank removed.

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The bearings again are absolutly perfect no marks at all on any of them! Dont worry the crank has not been left on the floor either as i know they can warp, when ive not been measuring it its been back in the block resting.

Now heres the strange bit, the bearings are perfect and the journals are also perfect but when measuring the journals with a micrometer my readings have been different to what was originally measured when assembled at factory. No much difference but for example :

Journal 7 is stamped on the block as mark "4" which is 61.990mm - 61.992mm

I have measured 61.885mm which would be mark "7" see picture below on the 2nd table (sorry about poor quality the forum has killed it)

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and this is the same case for all the main journals all under reading what the factory stamp says. Now i know this says its for 2jz-gte but my understanding is the block, crank and bearings are the same. At 1st i thought maybe its the micrometer but its calibrated and been set with the 50mm tool. So i then plastigauged it and low and behold every journal is slightly over the standard oil clearance, reading between 0.045mm - 0.050mm. Toyota says 0.026mm - 0.040mm std, maximum allowed is 0.060mm.

Big question is, do i stick with this clearance as i know the crank and bearings are perfect after 12yrs and 28k and its under the maximum allowed? Or do i reset the clearances slightly lower into the top end of toyotas std spec? I say top end because its going to be hopefully running over triple the amount of standard power, not to mention the stress of boost pressure on the internals and extra heat generated and think slightly larger clearance would be beneficial.

Need to do some more research and some more measuring to be 100% on this before i bang it back together.

Going away from that i also made a start on locating the aem into the glove box, ive cone cuttered the inner wing for the plugs to go through and just need to order a grommet now.

Had to remove the fuse box

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Heres the start of the hole i cut on the passenger inner wing into the footwell.

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Heres a view from inside

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The hole now is the same as the door loom grommet so getting hold of 1 of those will be prefect for it.

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20 minutes ago, bobmc said:

I wish I could chip in with some useful advice or opinion but alas I can't

I'm just in awe of the task you are undertaking and enjoying the updates :)

 

Cheers 👍 there has been a couple of times ive sat back looked at everything and thought what the hell am i doing 😂😂

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I'm assuming that 61.885 is a typo?

As you say, and as I understood it, the 2JZ-GE and 2JZ-GTE are the same, but if swapping bits about, you'd need to get the correct bearing based on the numbers on the block, crank and rods. Maybe the crank has been "worked" before and the bearings not replaced? If its still under the max tolerance, its probably ok, but I'm sure there are probably folk on one of the supra forums that might be more in the know.

 

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47 minutes ago, TigerFish said:

I'm assuming that 61.885 is a typo?

As you say, and as I understood it, the 2JZ-GE and 2JZ-GTE are the same, but if swapping bits about, you'd need to get the correct bearing based on the numbers on the block, crank and rods. Maybe the crank has been "worked" before and the bearings not replaced? If its still under the max tolerance, its probably ok, but I'm sure there are probably folk on one of the supra forums that might be more in the know.

 

Sorry yeh i was meant to edit that after i posted, i edited some bits but forgot that, its 61.985mm. The engine has never been apart or worked, no tell tale signs of anything ever being done. Well i will be using different rods so rod bearings will definatly have to be changed. Aftermarket bearings seem to come in a "standard fitment" 1 size fits all which are meant to put you in the middle of the standard clearance range but i would rather use the toyota main bearings as the clearances can be fine tuned also they are proven to take abuse. Need to do some thinking on the rod bearings weather to use aftermarket or toyota.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, well progress well and truly came to a halt!!! In 4 weeks me and the wife have had 3 birthdays, 2 weddings and a concert to go too!!!! 2 of the birthdays was mine and the wife's. 

So after last time i ordered new crank main bearings from toyota. I didnt replace all 7 journals just 5 that had very slight marks on them. Tbh i could have got away with re-using them but as im at this point i thought sod it just replace them. The other 2 journal bearings was completly unmarked. Also going to re-use the thrust washers as these was also unmarked and well withing spec when measured, 0.06mm measured and spec is 0.020-0.220mm.

Finally done a little bit more today, got the block surfaces cleaned up for the head and sump, all silicone and oil removed. Also checked the block with a straight edge from work following the toyota manual and again all in spec, maximum allowed 0.07mm. The largest i measured 0.05mm at a push at 1 small part.

Also cleaned up the sump pans, baffle and pick up pipe at work in the parts washer

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Also whilst all the madness of the last couple of weeks was going on i had some lovely parts turn up!! Got me pretty excited for getting this thing back together, santa really had come early!

I had said in an earlier post i had orderd pistons and rods and arp studs. The wiseco pistons, arp head and main studs i did order but held back on the rods as i was having 2nd thoughts on the crowers. Heres the pistons and arp studs.......... ordered from garage whifbitz.

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A while back i also ordered my exhaust manifold which has also now turned up. This is a suprastore twin scroll manifold for the 2jz-ge with external wastegate port with a 44mm vband flange welded on.... looks absolute quality!!

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As we all know black friday has been and gone and could not resist getting a good deal, i looked absolutly everywhere for the best deal on the parts i wanted! I had now made a decision on the rods, i wanted manley H-tuff rods which are capable of 1000whp, so way more than what i want (at the moment) and sticking to the over engineered approach which toyota have always seemed to have took!  I gave real street performance in america an email about the parts i wanted and some info on what parts would be best for my application, a guy called Robert Del Angel replied almost instantly which made me almost fall off my chair! Very informative and helped me out no end with quick fire emails back. On black friday night at 8:30pm our time i ordered manley H-tuff rods with arp 2000 bolts, brian crower stage 2 cams and brian crower valve springs with titanium retainers for a fantastic price matched by no one! By monday night 5:30pm our time they arrived!!!! Ordered from across the pond and arrived in 3days, 2 of which was the weekend!!! Faster than probably most uk companies could deliver not to mention cheaper than any uk company i looked at and i paid no extra for express delivery!!! I have never ever experienced customer service like this before, i emailed Robert back telling him that i had got the parts and even he was a little suprised, i also let him know how chuffed i was with his service! If only every company opperated this way. Here they are ....20171127_210355.thumb.jpg.d14ac1f18f46f8da8c112a449d7aeba0.jpg

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And the new rods next to the old 1s ...... huge!!

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Back to todays efforts i could now get the crank back in and new bearings with ARP main studs. I picked these up from toyota last week....

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Got the studs fitted, bearings in and lucas engine lube applied.....

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Crankshaft then installed and main caps torqued down to 60ft lbs using the ARP lube...

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Thats it for now guys, hope you have enjoyed the update

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5 minutes ago, Farqui said:

Phwaaaar, some tasty parts there.

As you say, checkout those new rods!

Yeah this thing is fast becoming a designer brand whore 😂 my budget also seems to be going out the window, this is going to cost me more than i anticipated 😂 ffs oh well this is what the tuning game is about i suppose, you only live once 

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1 hour ago, rob_clio172 said:

Yeah this thing is fast becoming a designer brand whore 😂 my budget also seems to be going out the window, this is going to cost me more than i anticipated 😂 ffs oh well this is what the tuning game is about i suppose, you only live once 

Oh! Very impressed, all the right labels in all the right places. Sunday evening just got interesting.

 

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1 hour ago, Neil E said:

 

Oh! Very impressed, all the right labels in all the right places. Sunday evening just got interesting.

 

Cheers muka, really enjoyed updating the thread, this is the interesting stuff. All the ecu locating and wiring stuff im going to try and keep short and sweet.

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Hey guys, got another small update from today. I made a start on the oil return in the secondary sump, the picture below shows where it is going to be fitted. This was pretty easy as i will just be using the blank part where the aristo return would normally be, thanks toyota 👍

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Drilled a pilot hole then hit it with the cone cutter.....

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What im using is a aeroflow AN -10 female ORB weld on adaptor, this will then allow me to screw in an aeroflow AN -10 male ORB adaptor with o-ring.

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This was when i noticed a small ***** up, i had ordered a stainless steel weld on and the sump is alloy..... this was not going to work. I then ordered a new weld on adaptor but in alloy, luckily this was pretty cheap.

This is how it will look........

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And thats it pretty much until i get the new weld on and the rod bearings sorted.

One last thing i did was just matched the exhaust manifold upto the cylinder head to tease myself ............ oh man it looks good!

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Nice build there. As an ex mkiv supra tt 6 sp owner you've caught my interest lol.

Just out of curiosity are you having to weigh and balance the rods / pistons you bought or are they already spot on?

Btw the v160 box was really clunky as well on and off the power and I remember trying to get the correct oil for it was a PITA.

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Hiya matey, the pistons just need the rings gapped, also need to check the wrist pin size in relation to the manley rod wrist pin bore. Rods are weighed and balanced when made/checked, manley hand write on the boxes the weight in grams of each end of the rod. The big end bores on the rods are also pre checked before they are boxed but i have also rechecked this myself and they are all spot on exactly 2.167"

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6 hours ago, rob_clio172 said:

Hiya matey, the pistons just need the rings gapped, also need to check the wrist pin size in relation to the manley rod wrist pin bore. Rods are weighed and balanced when made/checked, manley hand write on the boxes the weight in grams of each end of the rod. The big end bores on the rods are also pre checked before they are boxed but i have also rechecked this myself and they are all spot on exactly 2.167"

Cool, good luck with it, will be a bit of a sleeper once its on the road lol.

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58 minutes ago, mike m said:

Cool, good luck with it, will be a bit of a sleeper once its on the road lol.

Cheers muka, out of interest why did you get rid of the mk4 supra? TT 6speed manuals fetch big money nowadays. I would love a supra but the cost of them compared to the is300 is worlds apart....... but fully understand why they are worlds apart, very iconic car!

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1 hour ago, rob_clio172 said:

Cheers muka, out of interest why did you get rid of the mk4 supra? TT 6speed manuals fetch big money nowadays. I would love a supra but the cost of them compared to the is300 is worlds apart....... but fully understand why they are worlds apart, very iconic car!

Sigh, don't remind me mate. Traded it in 2010 for a Monaro and have regretted it ever since. At the time I wanted shot of it because its valve stems were smoking a little and the suspension felt like it needed attention , re bushing etc. I know naff all really but I was ready for a change at the time I guess.

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