rob_clio172

IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

Recommended Posts

So time for some more updates, firstly ive just become a gold member ūü§ė got to support the club. Ive tried to change my profile name too but im not sure thats worked.

On to the car and time for some more transmission bits, next up was the pedal swap and master cylinder fitment. I was going to use the wilwood master supplied with the clutch kit but as this was designed for a mk3 supra, the billet adaptor supplied would have to be modified to fit the IS300. I really looked into this but i just could not see a way round it without butchering the billet adaptor and i did not want it looking crap. I decided the wilwood master would be sold and i am going for an IS200 OEM master and clutch line. This would again be using original toyota/lexus parts making it look nice and factory fitted. 

I first of all made a little template out of card to mark the bulk head.

20170923_154004.thumb.jpg.f5da541fef27790ff123f36cf609cb28.jpg

I then marked up the bulk head and drilled the holes for the master cylinder studs

20170923_155245.thumb.jpg.a3b8f4f5d225ad32aa36d9049cb03bc2.jpg

I the used a cone cutter to cut the hole for the mater cylinder plunger to go through.

20170923_160817.thumb.jpg.af5983ad6ed8ffb295375e3800c21d90.jpg

As you can see good old toyota came up trumps again by leaving a hole in the insulation for the bulk head exposing the master cylinder location. This was the same for the inside of the car on the bulk head insulation.

20170923_161203.thumb.jpg.ecaf33acabd4c5024ff454f34f6ba91e.jpg

It was pre cut so all i had to do was pull it out.

I then fitted the master ready for the pedal to go in.

20170923_162518.thumb.jpg.06a7fdb26332bd31bc057a979ae4636d.jpg

Now as this was auto i would have to swap out the large auto pedal for the manual pedal, ebay provided these.

Went from this ........20170910_135736.thumb.jpg.95c2796116679c085fbd43d376c4c085.jpg

To this ..........

20170910_154833.thumb.jpg.3f27923735570bb8a8ccdc66b3940f0f.jpg20170923_162543.thumb.jpg.a596613972e1de26ba1c7460862abaf2.jpg

Thats better, looking like a proper original manual now! Master cylinder all bolted up to the pedal box now and a paper gasket used. Just waiting on the factory clutch line now and the beauty of this is the clips on the bulk head holding the brake lines have the blank space for the line the clip into. So no ugly braided line hanging across the bay and another part i can sell on with the wilwood master.

Whilst i was at toyota i also ordered a gear pattern plaque for the center console, not fitting this yet but just thought it would be a nice touch to make it look OEM factory fitted. 

20170915_140136.thumb.jpg.4b1f1a5a58b885b818fc8a5e94a377d6.jpg

This brings me up to date, from here updates will be slower but i will keep this going soon as i get something else done.

Once the clutch line comes, next weekend im hoping the engine will be out so some juicy updates to come.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Good progress Rob, liking the small details such as the gear pattern plaque:yes:

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update.......

Now you see me........

20171002_194220.thumb.jpg.ab2334458b68573be8e075d702900c37.jpg

Now you dont........

20171002_200836.thumb.jpg.3be54d519bbdb4bcbd7dd967071c9c00.jpg

I had the engine stand ready to bolt it onto but the bolts i have are not long enough to get through the stand holder and the block.

20171002_200826.thumb.jpg.ab628c1738bcb8677df465627387c889.jpg20171002_200855.thumb.jpg.e23994ede42ecec2e2c452455b1e895f.jpg20171002_200904.thumb.jpg.448d03ed6676e009bd4b355e91223995.jpg

Easy enough to pull the engine out, i removed the a/c condensor to make life a little easier. Going to find some longer bolts tomorrow and get it on the stand.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another small update, could not find m12 bolts with a 1.25 pitch thread long enough to go through the engine stand bracket and the engine block. I ordered some off ebay 100mm long and they are perfect. So will get the engine on the stand tomorrow and can set about pulling it apart.

Also this turned up ..........

20171006_193315.thumb.jpg.6bdc5b6a9cf58d49b37afe675fa01fe0.jpg

Atleast now whilst im waiting for bits to come i can set about installing the AEM, im going to install it inside the glove box so its tucked up out the way. Im also looking to relocate the factory engine ecu in the passenger side top corner of the engine bay where the battery once lived. I can then relocate the battery to the boot. Its all about to get very fun!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got some more done today, plans of installing the AEM was shelved as the weather was decent as i wanted to get the engine bay stripped some more and cleaned up.

20171008_142843.thumb.jpg.e520c873c338a0a107743ee52c8a6145.jpg

I removed the ecu and fuse boxes, unclipped and moved the loom on both sides of the bay, fully removed the a/c pipes and dusted everything down ready to wash.20171008_142855.thumb.jpg.eed0c8f5a0ccdb97bf0f06bcae8fef7c.jpg20171008_143544.thumb.jpg.460165b33c5b3945f8bae2dfbb240922.jpg

Bit of meguires gold class and some hot water and worked in using a brush, gave it wash down using a slow flowing hose and avoided the loom like the plague.

It didnt come up too bad to be honest, lots of scratches around and on the passenger side it looks at some point like the battery has leaked acid! Its eaten into the paint and sent the metal rusty. This is going to be sanded down, and painted.20171008_150844.thumb.jpg.f38381a4394fe40c7e77773e18a440b9.jpg20171008_150850.thumb.jpg.f7c897ee73e81d1f5827b28184f74866.jpg20171008_150858.thumb.jpg.a63b6dee816620b4773c011ddc0fd381.jpg

Now thats done ive also finally got the engine on the stand. Its at this point i really started to think as to just how big this project is! Ive got AEM air fuel ratio and boost gauges to fit as well as the loom. I also need to sort the original engine loom and slightly extend some wires to relocate the ecu box where the battery was, which leads me on to having to relocate the battery to the boot which means a running a cable through the car front to rear........ and thats just part of the whole thing!

20171007_160525.thumb.jpg.80dd1a2f4cc49761d62933f8273cb5f4.jpg20171007_162554.thumb.jpg.a76dfd955245d3e2f30872607eef2477.jpg

Got a few bits stripped off the engine on saturday afternoon...

20171007_180406.thumb.jpg.c2550a675af0fa277f7499758c3c0cb5.jpg

And the child in me did this little fast and furious quote¬†............ my mrs just shook her head¬†at me ūüėā20171007_175750.thumb.jpg.20f13ca3d73fa94765f617010536a7e5.jpg...

Next up going to sand down that rust and prep the bay for painting. Im also going to get the AEM in and plan where im going to route the loom and how to extend the original slightly.

 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, rob_clio172 said:

And the child in me did this little fast and furious quote¬†............ my mrs just shook her heas at me ūüėā20171007_175750.thumb.jpg.20f13ca3d73fa94765f617010536a7e5.jpg...

 

Ah, we're all children.

NDKmjaZl.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great thread and great build!

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Bempa said:

Great thread and great build!

Cheers matey, the weekends cannot come quick enough now for me to do more! Im swapping soon onto 4day weeks at work so get more time playing¬†without the¬†mrs nagging ūüėā

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another small update...... the crank pulley bolt has been giving me grief which i was not expecting!¬†I dont have the pulley holding tool so i tried using my snap on half inch electric impact gun........ useless! I then borrowed an ingersoll rand electric impact gun ......... useless aswell ūüėā. Then i tried something i found on you tube, i doubled the alternator belt back on itself around the crank pulley in such a way, that when you undo the crank pulley the belt tightens down on it and locks it in place....

20171011_193852.thumb.jpg.b7aebdb64379234d55c9230325cf5e71.jpg

This ^^^ is what it took to undo it, a breaker bar and 2 jack handles!!! The breaker bar was bent like a banana and i was convinced it was goin snap! With a couple of cracks it went, at which point it was lifting the engine and the stand off the floor!!.20171011_193910.thumb.jpg.1a5db3be832a1bfe99d2a20ae7fce54c.jpg20171011_193935.thumb.jpg.2187de50cb635ae67f669b3132ca16f9.jpg

Glad thats out the way, whilst i was faffing i got the hard clutch line fitted which i picked up from the dealer last weekend looks all nice and factory fitted.

20171010_192713.thumb.jpg.cac6b562e65612a669a98b16188330cf.jpg20171010_192630.thumb.jpg.fd6d9eec8a27c5063b4e56c0aa42d62c.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good and well done you. I've seen a few of those crank pulley bolts stories where people are convinced it's welded on. I remember doing one similar to that with the engine in the car using a big breaker bar and 2 trolley jack handles as a sleeve. Like you I was sure something would snap before the bolt moved but it eventually turned with a short sharp movement. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow it really took a lot of momentum to break that crank pulley bolt loose

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Neil E said:

Looking good and well done you. I've seen a few of those crank pulley bolts stories where people are convinced it's welded on. I remember doing one similar to that with the engine in the car using a big breaker bar and 2 trolley jack handles as a sleeve. Like you I was sure something would snap before the bolt moved but it eventually turned with a short sharp movement. 

Yeh i thought either the belt i had doubled up on it would snap or the bar! Ive done hundreds of these when i was a tech a lexus but ive never had 1 as tight as this and absolutly no corrosion on the bolt or washer either

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Bempa said:

Wow it really took a lot of momentum to break that crank pulley bolt loose

ūüėā i thought it was going to end in a trip to A&E

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought it said "no compression" first lmao

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i thought it was going to end in a trip to A&E
I really hate that when you can feel it in the whole body the pain that will come when it break loose, but you have no other choice then keep on pulling I'm glad you got it loose with out hurting your self


Skickat från min F8331 via Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been reading this with interest great work, when it comes to removing difficult engine parts, this vid is a must see.......

Big Rat

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So another small update, i was hoping to get lots done this weekend as weather forcast was good and i was not working....... well the mrs had other plans and ive ended up decorating all saturday!! I also forgot to bring my tools home from work so today i set about doing something small that i didnt need many tools for.

I made a start on relocating the factory engine ecu box up where the battery use to live.20171015_123527.thumb.jpg.824ee40dc29b1e32a53b03369b933a3f.jpg

It was going to need some chopping and modding to make this work, i trimmed down the old air feed pipe that comes from the fan cowling.

20171015_123616.thumb.jpg.72a2ce2f9fb07ad086fa9d516a33e907.jpg

Also cut away the old pipe which goes down to by the washer bottle, this was to avoid contact with the brake pipe for the passenger front.20171015_125543.thumb.jpg.ed4362c1318b6c26df27261549dbacf7.jpg

I also cut away from 1 of the supports for the bolting positions as this was touching the wiring loom coming out of the bulk head.

20171015_123611.thumb.jpg.b72207324569b2e0492b39e05e23d4e5.jpg

Now i know it looks rough as a bear's arse but this will be tidied up with a small set of fine files just so it looks tidy. Once this was done i trial fitted it to see if it was ok with the bonnet down. 

20171015_123445.thumb.jpg.8f489df5b686a401714e635c8267ddd5.jpg

This is the advantage of having no engine or front end on the car i can crawl into the bay ūüėā. Plenty room, as you can see its resting on that brake line but it will sit around half an inch above this when i have had some brackets fabricated. This now means the factory body loom that goes in through the bottom of ecu box need to be lengthened by around half a meter or so.

Ive also been eyeing up where to locate the AEM and the glove box is prime place, its looking difficult though as to where im going to get the loom through the bulk head to it. Its very tight up behind the glove box and around the blower motor. 

20171015_123454.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I Bob, i love your thread.

I think, in the futur, i build a 2JZ with 6 speed oem box for my 200.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, superkaribou said:

I Bob, i love your thread.

I think, in the futur, i build a 2JZ with 6 speed oem box for my 200.

thanks matey. Do it!! i did look into the 6speed v160 as these can handle huge amounts of power proven upto 1000bhp but they come at a big price! i also looked at the nissan cd009 gearbox with a conversion plate as these too can handle big power but i would prefer to keep things toyota/lexus. The r154 can handle enough power for my goals although there has been people who have had these fail but this could be age and abuse related. Aslong as its treated with some mechanical sympathy i think it should be ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How well does the R154 fit in the chassi? Is there any need of "body adjustment"?

Skickat från min F8331 via Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Bempa said:

How well does the R154 fit in the chassi? Is there any need of "body adjustment"?

Skickat från min F8331 via Tapatalk
 

The cross member will need some re working, nothing too bad though and will probably have to space the cross member out half an inch or so from the body. I had to use a w58 megan racing mount to bolt to the standard auto cross member

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, doesn¬īt sound to bad :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well ive had a very productive weekend and ive got loads done, more than i expected tbh! I continued sorting out the body wiring harness and the ecu box relocation. I managed to find some old brackets at work to secure the ecu box, all i had to do was shape them to hold the box and drill the holes to bolt them.

20171022_173841.thumb.jpg.fba11924ad2e3c97b43fb844c75bc092.jpg

The black bracket you can see here just needs straightening slightly.

20171022_173903.thumb.jpg.4607f52b06ef4a6616b98d58707ef2b0.jpg

This is the top bracket which will secure to the fuse box bolting point.

20171022_173813.thumb.jpg.1afbbcc7b15ba53697114e6718ad5296.jpg

And this is how its sitting. Just need to remove the brackets now and spray them black to hide them.

The next bit was mind numbing...... but strangely i had fun ūüėā it was time to extend the harness.

Here some stats as i like stats...

67 wires to extend.      

134 soldered joints

134 shrink wraps                                                                                          

73 feet of wire (2,077 inches)  

1 can of butane gas for my pencil torch

No idea how much solder

20171022_164733.thumb.jpg.2cee8cd10336a3f5828ab6f9d291c683.jpg20171022_164727.thumb.jpg.4cc8dccc9d72c7e46de2886a78ae88e1.jpg

As you can see its not quite finished, i have 15 more wires todo but ran out of heat shrink and my pencil torch packed up! Once done it will be taped up and will cover it with some hard plastic split coating to protect it.

The wiring has not cost me a penny, i got a complete vehicle body harness from work off a BMW F30 and just picked out the correct gauge wires (wasnt interested in wire colours) to match that of the wires on the lexus.

20171021_124412.thumb.jpg.5a1b1751cb0d1762fea3fe1619f7c82e.jpg

20171021_133907.thumb.jpg.d4455e27b32b0e8ba5bd0786aff3206a.jpg

This is the loom during the hacking. I also acquired loads of loom clips that pin the loom to the body as these will always come in handy.

As this came to a halt because of the shrink wraps and pencil torch issue i moved on to the engine. Managed to get the head off pretty quick as alot of the engine was already stripped down.

20171016_191758.thumb.jpg.c23871650b0dd27e9552f5fb6ec00f5a.jpg

The engine was in fantastic condition inside which you would expect on a 12 year old engine with full service history and just 28k on the clock

20171016_191810.thumb.jpg.0be93750668cdc1aa1f2f53b473d2de8.jpg

20171016_192438.thumb.jpg.bcf02b632aa98cfcdadba306955ce4d7.jpg

No signs of any sludge or staining

20171021_183655.thumb.jpg.927162c21cb99c335cf8b0dc036cc44b.jpg

Once the head was off i had a quick look at the pistons and bores and these too are in good condition. Not had the sumps off yet.

And thats it for the weekend, looking to finish the loom some time in the week and hit it again next weekend.

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So another weekend here and loads more done!! Finished off the loom, just waiting for some split corrugated plastic coating to come now...

20171028_141136.thumb.jpg.e0cd65bfccf3104e23b505a93c6eb0ed.jpg

Once that was done i decided to do something about the shocking paintwork in the bay on the passenger side, i sanded the rust down from the battery acid leak and prepped the paintwork.

20171029_115534.thumb.jpg.3f55ae6f73333c7f06883579a46f6da5.jpg

Primer applied ....... ghetto style masking ūüėā bodywork is not a speciality of mine so i was not expecting anything great but anything would be better than what was there before!

20171029_143029.thumb.jpg.fab40bad373ef1778977262b98b26655.jpg

Not great but alot better now. With that done i left the heater on it all day. I then started cliping the loom back in place and chucking all the little bits back in the bay on that side.

20171029_173938.thumb.jpg.51702c98d78729ec7655ec853b8b0841.jpg

20171029_174212.thumb.jpg.e1bc9bd7fc691bb4f6aa8ab7bc958ad4.jpg

I also managed to get a little more done with the engine, pulled the sumps off, oil pump removed and got the pistons/rods out of it.

20171028_152347.thumb.jpg.46ee11ebee42a86e2fee6fbbf9071215.jpg

20171028_152359.thumb.jpg.22db9d20038416fc200a339f436b2999.jpg

20171028_152407.thumb.jpg.9d99d3599f9a2d93dc34e9223c431257.jpg

20171028_152759.thumb.jpg.ee50bdf3ed83fd949384b776b5506dbe.jpg

20171029_123724.thumb.jpg.c142a2dc500746faf15d15be387e469f.jpg

20171029_123743.thumb.jpg.b535e3ec4eac444ecb09bede7a4dd9a3.jpg

20171029_123815.thumb.jpg.2c6c023b33917d9959f9adfe88464ab0.jpg

Engine is in fantastic condition! Not a mark on any of the rod bearings or the bores, no sign of any kind of wear. Not touched the crank mains yet as im waiting for plastigauge to come to measure oil clearances. Also getting a straight edge from work to check the block and bore gauge. Everything will be in spec but as im at this point it would be crazy not to make sure.

Ive ordered some of the engine internals now wiseco pistons, brian crower rods, ARP head and main studs, looking at ACL bearings. Once thats done its onto the head, got some tasty things in mind for this too!

Hope you guys are enjoying these updates ūüĎć

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now