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Hi all, been looking about and doesn't seem to be a lot of option for new rear shocks. Found some, but wonder what price they be around so I'm not over paying.

Is replacing the rear shocks an ok diy job, or does the hybrid stuff make it a garage job?

There options for with, or with out stabilising suspension, or something like that. I assume this refers to the active stabilisation stuff, that throws a hole host of pump and stuff under the spare wheel, thus if my wheel well empty, I need without suspension?

I also need to change the offside track rod end. Again, is there any complications due to the hybrid stuff, or is it a normal job? 

Never touched suspension or steering bits before, but willing to try. Should the track rod ends be replaced in pairs, or just that which is gone? Any tools I need to get, like will I need a pickle fork or ball joint operator to push out a joint?

Anything else I need to know about the suspension or track rod end jobs to avoid any headaches?

Assume I'll need a full alignment after both jobs done?

Cheers all, marginally unnerved as new areas for me, but we all had to learn at some point eh. So hopefully this is my time!

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I've got a weeping rear shock too, so I'm also interested in answers.

Lexus want £400 to do the job but I like to change shocks in pairs, so the price gets silly. The last ones I bought (years ago) were twenty quid a piece.

Not really amused and seriously thinking of returning to BMW.

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5 hours ago, Upex said:

Hi all, been looking about and doesn't seem to be a lot of option for new rear shocks. Found some, but wonder what price they be around so I'm not over paying.

Is replacing the rear shocks an ok diy job, or does the hybrid stuff make it a garage job?

There options for with, or with out stabilising suspension, or something like that. I assume this refers to the active stabilisation stuff, that throws a hole host of pump and stuff under the spare wheel, thus if my wheel well empty, I need without suspension?

I also need to change the offside track rod end. Again, is there any complications due to the hybrid stuff, or is it a normal job? 

Never touched suspension or steering bits before, but willing to try. Should the track rod ends be replaced in pairs, or just that which is gone? Any tools I need to get, like will I need a pickle fork or ball joint operator to push out a joint?

Anything else I need to know about the suspension or track rod end jobs to avoid any headaches?

Assume I'll need a full alignment after both jobs done?

Cheers all, marginally unnerved as new areas for me, but we all had to learn at some point eh. So hopefully this is my time!

The rear shocks are easy to change on the GS450H. You do not need a spring compressor, and there are no problems with the high voltage battery.

(1) Remove carpet trim in the corner of the boot depending on witch side your working.

(2) With the car still on it's wheels remove the plastic cover over the motor on top of the shock "just pulls off". Remove the motor over the shock " 1/4 turn and lift". Undo the centre nut now exposed holding the top of the shock.

(3) Jack the car up, and make secure to work on. Remove the wheel. Remove the long thin bolt holding the anti roll bar link, "and ride height sensor on the passengers side only" to the bottom link. A jack under the bottom link will remove any load on the bolt till it's removal. Remove the shock bottom bolt. Remove the bottom link to hub bolt.

(4)The bottom link can now be pushed down by hand, and the shock removed with the loose spring sitting on it's top.

I can change a rear shock in 30 minutes on the floor with hand tools, and I am disabled.

The fronts can be removed again without a spring compressor. If anyone needs details just ask.

Changing shocks on the GS this way does not affect alignment.

John.

 

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This is what keeps putting me off buying one:

1) There is no aftermarket alternative

2) Lexus know of the problem and havent done anything about it i.e revised the part so the problem does not keep re-occuring - even where parts are replaced they keep failing. What makes it worse dealers show no sympathy at all and even warranty claims are being rejected.

3) The part is quite over priced.

For this reason and ofcourse potential battery cell issues I think these cars will quickly get scrapped and disappear from our roads - something I would not expect from a high end marque with its unique performace figures.

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The issue with the shock absorbers is bad particularly with the high cost of replacement, but I have found that with a thought a way of re filling, and sealing them at reasonable cost.

The high voltage battery is not such an issue as there will always be plenty of spare 6 cell modules available from the Prius that uses the same parts. I can see that in the future it will be possible to use lithium batteries as a replacement source as costs are falling rapidly. Or may be even supper capacitors. There is much going on in this area. With Richard at Hybrid Battery Solutions also doing sterling work in this area keeping costs more than reasonable.

They only known "common" issue with the transmission is the oil pump bearings that can be replaced at little cost. An auto transmission from almost any car would cost more to replace than the HV battery. The auto transmissions being less reliable at high miles than the battery in the GS.

John.

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Cheers John that's much appreciated, will be doing diy then.

Does shock need to be Lexus, as found other floating about, and if known to fail, but easy to replace, I'm thinking buy cheap and not be arsed about fixing again in 50k, ie found them in stock at 150 each, vs the 400 folks mention for Lexus (I've not called Lexus as still in a mood with them over declined warranty and appealing service, but have calmed down and sticking with car now vs swapping back to merc lol, just had a few sore days)

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20 minutes ago, Upex said:

Cheers John that's much appreciated, will be doing diy then.

Does shock need to be Lexus, as found other floating about, and if known to fail, but easy to replace, I'm thinking buy cheap and not be arsed about fixing again in 50k, ie found them in stock at 150 each, vs the 400 folks mention for Lexus (I've not called Lexus as still in a mood with them over declined warranty and appealing service, but have calmed down and sticking with car now vs swapping back to merc lol, just had a few sore days)

The only shocks that fit with full functionality are Lexus, and I have not found any for under £265 for one rear shock. I did some checking a while ago, and it looks as though the ordinary GS shocks of the same year will fit the GS450H, but you loose the ride stiffness control. There is no hole down the top of the shock threaded rod where the adjuster is.

The track rod end is easy to change, and again no special tools are needed. To remove the tapered stud just give the outside of the ring it fits through a good smack with a hammer. This distorts the ring momentarily and the tapper stud pops out. You will not damage anything by doing this.

John.

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A coil over system could be a better option, which solves the recurring situation. Cost per corner is less than stock set up but you can't just change one corner, so initial cost is more.

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Thought about coil overs, but want to retain the variable avs or whatever it's called, the suspension buttton functionality. Didn't realise that the ones about might not retain the adjustability. Guess that's what they mean by without stabilisation, I thought that was the gubbings in spare wheel well with another acronym they were referring to.

Darn it. Best ring Lexus!

 

Thanks for heads up on the track rod end, will tackle this myself, have a bid hammer and like using it 😁. Know to count turns off and replace same on, but will the front then need aligning after it's replaced?

Should I replace both track rod ends, or just the bust one? I'm fitting new disks and pads, so I'll be on the other side anyway, but unsure if recommended to change in pairs?

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3 hours ago, Upex said:

Thanks for heads up on the track rod end, will tackle this myself, have a bid hammer and like using it 😁. Know to count turns off and replace same on, but will the front then need aligning after it's replaced?

Should I replace both track rod ends, or just the bust one? I'm fitting new disks and pads, so I'll be on the other side anyway, but unsure if recommended to change in pairs?

I'd change both, if one is gone the other won't be far behind. Counting turns is good for initial set up but I'd have the tracking checked because it's a lot cheaper than a pair of tyres.

 

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As John above says I would change both although not essential, and this way you will only pay for tracking once.

There is a place in Birmingham "not a Lexus dealer" that does genuine shocks, and other parts at good prices I'll see if I can dig out the name, and address.

John.

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Thanks both. Will change both, something appeals to doing stuff in pairs, and as not expensive, makes sense.

I'll be changing tyres as soon as getting low, not a fan of whatever crap is on her now, there a bit of life left so going to run them down before changing. Should I wait for the new tyres to do tracking, or do tracking soon as after track rod ends?

Not sure of the damage it can do not doing after the ends, or of the additional benefit of doing with new tyres.

 

Called Lexus today, rear shocks 305 each, ouch, but can have 15% of for being registered member here (gold I presume) so off to find joining instructions. 10% of the track rod ends to, so like 41 quid lol.

I'm not ordering yet, so if you can find that detail John, I can check with them to. Thanks.

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Address in Birmingham is FCS "Foreign Car Spares Ltd" The rolling Mill.  166 Parkfield Rd.  Alum Rock.  Birmingham.  B8 3AY.

Telephone. 0121 327 8214 / 8200 they will post parts to you

John.

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Cheers John, will give them a buzz as part of my prep.

 

Thanks

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How can i check correct part number for the shock?

Nippon auto spares (found from another suspension thread) list 2 at cheaper than Lexus with gold club discount, at 250 each. One part is 48530-80454 and the other 48530-80356, both state they applied during 2006!

Assume 1 was for the active roll bar stuff in spare wheel well version, whilst other without, which is the one I need, I think, not looked for that roll bar stuff yet, but doubt she has it as I believe was quiet rare.

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If you have the active roll bar there is an extra 12 volt battery in the boot.

John.

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Thanks John, when you say extra, do you mean 2 12v batteries would be in boot? 

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7 hours ago, Upex said:

Thanks John, when you say extra, do you mean 2 12v batteries would be in boot? 

Yes.

John.

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The rear shocks are not handed so are both the same number. The fronts are handed, but the only difference is one small bracket that holds the cable for the ABS, and this is not a problem. The NS front shock on mine is 48520-80180. If it would be helpful to you I can look at the others on the car and give the numbers tomorrow. 

John.

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Many thanks John, that's very kind of you. But I think should be ok.

The folks at Nippon have been helpful and offered me a good deal as I'm looking to buy both shocks, track rod ends and other stuff. Recommend them thus far if anyone needs bits.

I assume the numbers are easy to see then? As would like to check what she's on before ordering.

Cheers

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On 9/27/2017 at 9:14 PM, Upex said:

Many thanks John, that's very kind of you. But I think should be ok.

The folks at Nippon have been helpful and offered me a good deal as I'm looking to buy both shocks, track rod ends and other stuff. Recommend them thus far if anyone needs bits.

I assume the numbers are easy to see then? As would like to check what she's on before ordering.

Cheers

There is a white outward facing label on each shock about 2 inches square with the part number on. This lable seems to last even after many thousands of miles. There does seem to be some updated number though so the new numbers may not match your old ones, but I assume they can be cross referenced for correct fit.

John.

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