Upex

Track rod ends arrived, no ball joint, what the hell?

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Folks, anyone know where i can find a part number fiche type thing for the gs450h?

My shocks, full service kit and track rod ends arrived today, but the track rod ends I've received are just the metal bit, without the ball joint!

All the ends I've seen have always had the ball in, what gives. Why on earth would I want to change the 2 metal sleeves and not the ball joints? 

I now clearly, and quickly, need to get 2 balls joints for the ends, and haven't a clue where to look or what part number I need etc. 

I'm hoping I can return the arms and reuse what's on there, give then ball joint is screw in, but what part am I to order? Baffled, bloody crazy, although makes sense as easy to replace the ball joint 've the joint and metal arm, but come'on!

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Doh, how annoying.

Try your local auto factor, they can usually get parts delivered the next day.

They should also be able to tell you the correct part.

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3 hours ago, Upex said:

Folks, anyone know where i can find a part number fiche type thing for the gs450h?

My shocks, full service kit and track rod ends arrived today, but the track rod ends I've received are just the metal bit, without the ball joint!

All the ends I've seen have always had the ball in, what gives. Why on earth would I want to change the 2 metal sleeves and not the ball joints? 

I now clearly, and quickly, need to get 2 balls joints for the ends, and haven't a clue where to look or what part number I need etc. 

I'm hoping I can return the arms and reuse what's on there, give then ball joint is screw in, but what part am I to order? Baffled, bloody crazy, although makes sense as easy to replace the ball joint 've the joint and metal arm, but come'on!

Robert I think the part you require is the lower ball joint assembly. See Ebay item number 122690217150

John

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Cheers all, would appear the ball joints are separate, pointing up, vs down as I was expecting, thus the bits I've ordered, track rod ends, shouldn't be needed, just the bit John linked to.

Arse, more money!

Given that I'll not move the track rod end, just pop out the balls, assume tracking isn't as urgent, ie I can let current tyres scrub down and then do tracking worth new tyres?

Should have let garage do it lol, already spend 950 lol, blooming mot!

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So, both lower ball joint things changed out. Steering a little off now, but is tighter and less knock over bumps, although it was not bad at all before.

Have found front offside calipers stuck though. Ecp, cp4l do not do it. Can have nearside front calipers for less than 100, but can't get a front offside at all.

Lexus just quoted me 300+

Tried calling rippon, no answer.

Where have you all had your calipers from?

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1 hour ago, Upex said:

So, both lower ball joint things changed out. Steering a little off now, but is tighter and less knock over bumps, although it was not bad at all before.

Have found front offside calipers stuck though. Ecp, cp4l do not do it. Can have nearside front calipers for less than 100, but can't get a front offside at all.

Lexus just quoted me 300+

Tried calling rippon, no answer.

Where have you all had your calipers from?

Try calling "Biggred" 01905428793. They do a repair, replacement, and parts at very competitive prices. Look them up on the net. www.biggred.co.uk

John

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Sorry to hear about your caliper, if I were you I would definitely look into a refurb/exchange.

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Thanks John, have emailed them as nothing comes up on line when searching for parts.

Thanks the plan Lee just struggling to find one at reasonable price. Why places stock nearside but can't even order offside baffles me.

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So having driven the car a bit now, there is something wrong at the front since changing the ball joints. When turning right sharply, ie moving out my parking space, it feels like the front is slipping, jumping kind of judder. As if the tyre isn't in full contact and only party touching ground and is slipping out sideways vs following the true steering path. It's a stutter, jump by jump, type thing, not constant, as if pressure building, tyre slips, is ok, pressure builds again, then jumps again repeating .5 to 1s ish.

Like a very strong camber if you get my drift, when on near full lock.

It's also not as solid or steady on the road.

I'm going to recheck the 8 bolts are tourqued to spec (i did torque them properly as per your specs John, both hub/knuckle bolts to higher figure, can't recall now, and the 2 castle nuts to 26 or something quite lower), but wonder what else it could be?

Ball joints crap? (Used bluepoint I think)

I've knackard something else (not a clue what though)

Or could it be down to the tracking/alignment stuff, assume this would address any camber issues? as I've not had it done yet? If so, what do I need to ask for when seeking a shop, tracking, alignment, camber check etc?

Cheers all, this is turning into a headache. Car was fine, no issues at all with the old joints, except failing mot, now new balls and it's gone to pot (not to mention new shocks that made no difference whatsoever lol)

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Robert I would think your steering problem is down to the wheels being out of alignment.

Ideally a 4 wheel alignment should be carried out, but since only shocks have been changed on the rear "these do not upset the alignment when changed on the GS" it will only be the fronts that need doing.

Ask for a front wheel alignment, and camber check. The tyres on the GS are quite wide so wide that on full lock only one line of tread on the tyre is at the correct angle as the inside, and outside edges of the tyre follow different turning circles. If the tracking is out so that an inside or outside edge is following the true line the other edge of the tyre is way off track.

The effect even when tracking is correct can be heard and felt on painted carpark surfaces where at very low speeds the tyres will squeal, and the steering feels all wrong. 

John

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Lovely thanks John. Was hopefully tracking may be the cause (as only one that makes sense given the circumstance) but knowing my luck of late...

Will try to find a recommended place, as used a few and not been happy with them at all. One place told me that my steering wheel needed to come off and be put back on again to straighten it out. Tried to explain that's not right, and they got quiet defensive lol.

Will rest a touch easier now, so thanks for confirming your thoughts.

Cheers,

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I'm sure nearly Lexus I've had has done that on full lock. Especially when its cold and the tyres are a bit harder. So could just be the way Lexus setup the steering geometry.

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12 hours ago, Upex said:

Lovely thanks John. Was hopefully tracking may be the cause (as only one that makes sense given the circumstance) but knowing my luck of late...

Will try to find a recommended place, as used a few and not been happy with them at all. One place told me that my steering wheel needed to come off and be put back on again to straighten it out. Tried to explain that's not right, and they got quiet defensive lol.

Will rest a touch easier now, so thanks for confirming your thoughts.

Cheers,

You are quite correct about the steering wheel not coming off unless it has previously been disturbed. Turning the steering wheel on it's shaft will produce an offset in the steering rack giving more lock in one direction, and less in the other. This can play havoc with the power steering sensors.

When tract correctly a zero point calibration should be carried out on the steering with Techstream. "Normally part of the tracking procedure".

Thinking about you braking problem this "may2 be cured by carrying out a linear solenoid centering calibration on the brake actuator. Again with Techstream preferably after do a complete fluid change using Techstream.

John.

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Thanks John.

How would I do the 'zero point calibration' and 'linear solenoid entering calibration' via techstream?

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Robert I have not done either calibration "zero point or linear solenoid", but believe it is a relatively easy process with Techstream giving instructions for each.

I will see if I can connect to my own car, and check things out. Zero point calibration on the steering should be carried out as part of the tracking service where ever you have it done.

John.

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Cheers John, will see if can find either when next plugged in.

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